reeper
-
Posts
35 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by reeper
-
-
Are you not able to use the section in the regular UMO+ manual? This link works for me: https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/196/original/Ultimaker_Original__Assembly_Instructions.pdf
All the manual links take me to the placeholder webpage. If this link https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/199/original/Heated_Bed_upgrade_kit_Assembly_Manual.pdf miraculously works for you. could you upload it to another location so that I may download it and mirror it using dropbox for those that find themselves in the same situation
-
Greetings all,
Would it be possible for someone to provide a link to the heated bed kit assembly manual as the website is currently crippled. It would be greatly appreciated.
-
Hi Reeper,
Your account was not deleted, but our store was upgraded.
If you visit this link it should tell you:
'
Use your account to log in.
We have improved our online store technology which results in a better user experience. You are able to login to your account by requesting a new password.
If your previous login is from before December 15 you are able to reset your password by pressing 'Forgot Password?'.'
Our apologies for the inconvenience.
If I use your link to request a new password it tells me that my email address isn't known, as I mentioned to you in pm. How else should I go about asking for a new one ?
-
Am I the only person who has seemingly had their store account deleted/lost?
-
Still waiting for the heated bed kit to be shipped.
-
there is in fact a shipping delay due to a new batch of boards being ordered, it is unknown when they will be delivered. hopefully more info today. this is directly from sales/support in a support phone call today.
there is an issue with some boards failing, causing runaway heating on the heated bed. an earlier post mention using the power switch to shut off the printer during a print might have caused the failure. Mine failed 5 minutes into the print, the printer just stopped and the bed started heating. If I just plug the printer in now the bed starts heating.
I really think that UM should make a statement about this, at least a warning about leaving the printer running unattended.
It's unfortunate if this is the case, as much as I am a fan of their products I've never had a shipment from ultimaker leave without a hitch. It's why I decided to inquire here about lead times just after making the purchase.
-
I live in France and haven't heard of any resellers, it would be nice if there is one that offers the upgrade at a more affordable price, 300+ euros (incl shipping) was a bit steep
-
I've just recently(yesterday) placed an order for a heated bed kit upgrade for my UM1 and have read that there are issues with shipment lead times.
I just wanted to inquire as to whether the heated bed kits' shipment has been affected or not and if I could expect shipment within the next few days.
Sorry for my impatient post, looking forward to installing the upgrade.
-
Another query:
I’ve printed the anulus with the above mentioned settings(240 degrees, 110mm/s, 0.18mm layer height) and ended up with the following result:
The inset text is not so inset unfortunately, could the rippling be due to over tightened belts since I have banana tensioners installed ?
Edit:
I recommend you print the pins all facing the same way and you reduce their width and height by a scale factor of 0.9 (but leave the long direction scaled at 1X). I did not do this and regret it. I did probably 4 minutes filing per pin!
Recently I printed out Emmett's "heart gears" and I printed them at 90% (but left the length of the pins at 100%) and they were just about perfect and didn't need any filing. Emmett designed the heart gears and also this transmission.
Odd, I printed the heart gears and found the pins to be fine if only a bit too long. The gears were a little loose and I have yet to print shorter pins to force them to fit more snugly.
I printed a set of pins for the transmission, pushed a medium pin into one of the idler gears and it seems to fit fine, the idler rotates quite freely. I don’t have the carrier printed yet to test the length though
-
Higher temp might help the plastic flow better, yes - but you're still trying to print pretty fast. So it doesn't surprise me that there's a bit of under-extrusion still. The filament won't grind necessarily, but the teeth marks get closer together, reducing your effective steps-per-e setting.
Some things you might want to check:
1) Is your extruder bolt clean, and properly assembled?
2) Assuming that you have a v2 extruder, with a spring - is the spring about 11mm long when the extruder is unloaded? Is your delrin pressure wheel in good shape - has it deformed any?
3) Does the filament slide easily in the Bowden tube?
4) Have you checked that you're using the right filament diameter value in the slicer?
5) Have you calibrated your steps-per-e setting? What is it?
I'd try dropping the layer height to 0.1mm. And see if it works better with a much lower flow rate. Then start to increase it to get a sense of how flow rate affects the extrusion amount. As I mentioned before, you can always try upping the flow rate in Cura, or via the Ulticontroller to compensate.
(I did a bunch of testing of the relationship between flow rate and under-extrusion here).
1) The bolt was clean and seemingly well positioned
2) I have the v2 extruder drive and the spring was around 12.7mm long when the drive was disengaged. I tightened it as you suggest and it did make a significant improvement
3) Slides fine
4) I had measured an average diameter of 2.8mm for the filament when I first started using it, a quick check showed that it had increased to 2.9 so I updated the parameter. I knew that this could potentially worsen the issue but I didn't want to falsely compensate for the under-extrusion(although I guess past the flow limit the system takes strain with minimal flow gain)
5) Not calibrated(bad, I know), I use the 836 value I've seen associated with the v3 bolt and the v2 extruder drive.
I managed to reduce the issue somewhat, in spite of the diameter increase, by tightening the extruder drive and upping the temp to 240. I can now print with a speed of 110mm/s, 240 degrees and 0.18m layer height resulting in only a slightly visible under-extrusion. Thanks again for your help
Has anyone achieved better results with the stock nozzle ?
I printed the same transmission. I printed the whole thing at 240C and fast. Some parts at 100mm/sec some at 150 and some at 200mm/sec. They all showed some minor underextrusion but the transmission works great. Back then I was using a heated bed (not anymore - don't need it) and the heated bed was at 70C for most of the prints. I guess I'm not as picky as you are but the higher temp definitely helps the PLA flow like honey. Here's pics of my print:
http://www.thingiverse.com/make:32987
(looking back at it I should have leveled the bed better for more squished first layers)
After you print all the parts, read my comments at the above link to get it working nicely. It was quite a head scratcher to get it to work in all 6 gears without binding. Now it moves smooth as in Emmett's video.
Did you achieve those speeds with a larger diameter nozzle ?
I wish I had a heated bed at this point, these larger parts are incredibly difficult to remove from the bed. I think the squished initial layers I've seen on my gears will interfere with their alignment(I leave a gap between the nozzle and bed large enough to push a sheet of paper between with a little friction)
Thank you for the pointers on the transmission assembly, hopefully I'll have a positive result to report once I've printed all the parts.
-
You're probably pushing the limits of how much plastic you can extrude per second. With 0.2mm layers, at 120mm/s you're hitting 9.6mm³/s (= 0.2 x 120 x 0.4, assuming that your shell thickness is an exact multiple of your 0.4mm nozzle width).
That's at or above the limit of how much plastic you can squeeze through a standard nozzle - the back pressure is going to cause the extruder to slip some, and could even lead to head clogs if molten plastic gets squirted in places it shouldn't go.
You could try upping you flow rate in the slicer (or Ulticontroller) to maybe 110 or 115% to compensate for any slipping in the extruder - but beware that you're also increasing the chance of the filament grinding, or head clogging by doing this.
A better solution might be to reduce your layer height a bit to reduce the volume per second, and hence pressure.
Also, it's normal to need more solid layers to close over infill - I typically aim for at least 5 layers, but find it sometimes can take up to ten, especially with thin layers and fairly low infill percentages.
Many thanks for the advice, for some reason I had decided that the parameters I chose were within the limits of what was possible with a 0.4mm nozzle.
I decreased the layer height to 0.18mm and the speed to 100mm/s making for a flow of 7.2mm³/s. Unfortunately this still results in visible under-extrusion both on the sides and the top skin of the gear(the skin closed with 7 solid layers but the thread is visibly thin). I checked the teeth marks on the filament a few times and saw no evidence of grinding.
The temp was at 220, perhaps I should have used 230 - 240 ?
I can lower the height and speed further but I’m starting to wonder if it isn’t a hardware issue.
-
Greetings to all,
Up till now I’ve tended to print slowly at lower layer heights(60mm/s, 0.04 - 0.1mm, 200 temp, 0.4mm nozzle) with some success.
I decided today that I wanted to print the automatic transmission model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778) and that I wanted to sacrifice some quality for gains in print time.
After consulting https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/3zkPAMi9z-0 I upped the temp to 220, the speed to 120mm/s and the layer height to 0.2mm for a preliminary test.
Printing one of the gears produced what appeared to be under-extrusion, ridges in the outer shell and a top skin that didn’t close up(3 solid layers, 15% infill).
I decided to increase the amount of solid bottom and top skin layers to 5 and the temp to 230. The gear ended up more or less the same, here are a few photos to illustrate the problems I’ve encountered
ridges caused by under-extrusion ?, I believe my belt tension to be decent for both the short and long belts(I have added banana tensioners)
5 solid layers but under extrusion appears to stop them from closing up
bottom skin works out fine with an initial layer printing speed of 20mm/s
I would greatly appreciate any advice on how to improve my results with faster prints.
-
Hey Daid,
Not to nag, but do you have a rough idea of when we’ll be able to peruse the code of your new slicer engine ? I’ve been eagerly awaiting the possibility since I had the chance to chat with you at the Erfurt conference.
-
I’ve been out of printing commission for a while but am happy to have found the time to tinker once more.
I have wanted to test out retraction so I decided to attack the klein bottle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2273 without scaling)
In terms of setup I have a late 2011 ultimaker fitted with a v3 bolt, the spring extruder drive upgrade, the extruder clip and a v1 hot end(I have the v2 upgrade but haven’t had any obvious issues with the first version thus far).
My ultimaker is running the latest Marlin firmware from github in order to avoid the retraction bug that Illuminarti mentions here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1789-retraction-and-blobs/?hl=retraction
Using cura 13.03 and the following settings, my first attempt(Print 1) failed when the print head knocked it over before the print could finish(5 hours into the print :( ). Given that the initial layer was extremely small, I assume that a slight bit of warped PLA catching the print head was enough to dislodge the print.
Print 1 settings :
filament_diameter = 3.00
nozzle_size = 0.4
wall_thickness = 0.8
retraction_enable = True
layer_height = 0.1
solid_layer_thickness = 0.6
fill_density = 20
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 200
support = None
enable_raft = False
filament_density = 1.00
skirt_line_count = 3
skirt_gap = 3.0
retraction_min_travel = 3.0
retraction_speed = 30.0
retraction_amount = 4.0
retraction_extra = 0.0
travel_speed = 200
max_z_speed = 3.0
bottom_layer_speed = 20
cool_min_layer_time = 5
fan_enabled = True
bottom_thickness = 0.3
object_sink = 0.0
enable_skin = False
plugin_config = (lp1
.
model_matrix = 1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0
extra_base_wall_thickness = 0.0
cool_min_feedrate = 10
fan_layer = 1
fan_speed = 100
fan_speed_max = 100
raft_margin = 5
raft_base_material_amount = 100
raft_interface_material_amount = 100
support_rate = 50
support_distance = 0.5
infill_type = Line
solid_top = True
fill_overlap = 15
bridge_speed = 100
sequence = Loops > Perimeter > Infill
force_first_layer_sequence = True
joris = False
retract_on_jumps_only = True
hop_on_move = False
I decided that the retraction of the first print wasn’t aggressive enough, so I conservatively extended the retraction amount by 0.5mm to 4.5mm for the second print. I also sunk the object by 3 mm to improve bed adhesion and avoid the bottle being knocked over a second time.
As can be seen in the image, the second print finished but the retraction actually appears to be worse than in the first. I checked the filament diameter and it doesn’t appear to have increased so I’m at a loss as to why it has worsened.
I would also appreciate any advice on handling the overhangs in this print, I suppose a different fan duct or a second fan would improve matters ?
-
I would have thought that a belt tension issue would produce a problem on two sides of the cube, both being opposite one another. Only one side is ridged like that.
Could be an odd stringing that is very close to the cube surface due to unoptimised path planning in netfabb.
The PLA colour is Gold/Brass, I ordered it with my ultimaker kit. I think it’s the same colour that bluebot/Paul uses for most of his prints(that I’ve seen anyway)
-
I’m back once more.
I finally got around to fixing my printer’s nozzle leak this weekend. A bit of teflon tape around the brass tube before replacing the nozzle head seemed to do the trick.
Previous prints suggested that the y stepper motor belt wasn’t taut enough, I increased the tension and the issue seems to have been remedied.
I’ve printed the companion cube from portal, overall it turned out alright. I used netfabb to slice, using the high quality profile after having set the down and up skins to hatching(now looking at the cube I’m not sure I properly selected my modified profile, I generated the gcode some time ago)
I have noticed two issues with the print. Firstly the top of the cube has turned out rather poorly, partly due to stringing it seems. I would appreciate some advice on where things might have gone wrong if it appears evident.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d ... directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/n ... directlink
The other issue I noticed was a strange ridging that formed on only one side of the cube, I’m at a loss as to what might have caused this given that the opposite side is smoother.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l ... directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/h ... directlink
A few other pictures can be found here
https://picasaweb.google.com/1121852438 ... directlink
Thanks in advance for any analyses/suggestions.
Richard.
-
Oh man, the spam is starting to get entertaining.
-
Just to make sure, you did put grease on the lead screw right ?
-
Finally got around to tightening the nozzle to try and eliminate the leak. Sadly, it’s better but not completely gone. I guess I will have to take the nozzle off and seal everything up with some plumbers tape.
I had a go at slicing the calibration cube using netfabb and the standard profile, unmodified. The result can be seen here
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a ... directlink
The underlying spacing is visible through the top surface of the cube(I suppose sagging is to be expected with relatively sparse spacing) but I’m not entirely certain that the top surface is as it should be(I have nothing else to compare it with). So I’m posting the result here to inquire if netfabb has demonstrated that the printer extrusion is working as it should.
Thanks.
-
I had seen the link concerning belt tension and infill issues. I made sure the motor timing belts are quite taut, and from the beginning I had replaced the 2 nut-10mm bolt setup on the belt clamps with 3 nut-12 mm bolts. The tension is perhaps not perfect, but I think it’s alright for the moment. As for the alignment of the axes, I spent a fair amount of time trying to minimise resistance and measuring gaps. They seem to be ok, but I have nothing to compare with resistance wise. Everything is lubed up.
After battling with my phone's camera to get focus to work, I managed to get some isometric photos of my prints. I took Taylor’s sage advice of uploading everything to an online gallery, here’s the link
https://picasaweb.google.com/1121852438 ... directlink
Given the amount of plastic that leaked between the aluminum block and the nozzle, I should probably address that first. Then I’ll have a go at printing the calibration cube with both skeinforge and netfabb, and see which problems persist.
-
I haven’t held the filament to gauge the movement, but it did appear to be moving without slipping and the “teeth” marks on the filament as it travels up are always regular when I have a look.
I may have found part of the problem(not entirely sure). At first I noticed some plastic leaking between the nozzle and the aluminum block, but I pegged it down to printing at higher temperatures and considered it normal based on the photos I have seen.
I have only just recently noticed that It’s not as apparent from the front, but looking from the right(in a cooled state) there is a substantial amount of leaked plastic(my last print was at 200 degrees celsius). Not sure how I didn’t notice this sooner, but it could account for the lack of plastic and random blobbing.
I suppose I’ll have to heat the nozzle, remove it, clean it up and try to make sure it’s fastened more tightly.
Front:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/nozzle1.jpg
Right:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/nozzle2.jpg
-
Thanks for the clarification, I had seen both links but I guess the definition of shell hadn’t stuck with me. I’ll have another look at florian’s link to see if I’ve missed anything and at yours for further tips on skeinforge configuration(I haven’t read all the articles in the index yet)
Those pictures are all of the same cube, top, bottom and one side. Is it not possible to obtain a smooth surface at this w/t thickness(0.5mm) ?
-
Ok, to save a bit of time I went back to the calibration box instead of the whistle.
Everything is the same as before except I dropped the temperature to 200, the flow/feed rates to 50, travel rate to 100 and the filament packing density to 0.9.
I forgot to mention that I dropped extra shells to 0 as suggested by the maker of the whistle on thingiverse, but only before attempting to print the solid whistle. It didn’t appear to make much of a difference(not sure what purpose shells serve).
Here’s the box:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/box1.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/box2.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/box3.jpg
The threads meet but are still distinguishable. The result is somewhat better than the first box I printed but not ideal :/
-
It’s labelled as PLA, smells somewhat sweet. I suppose I’ll have to play with the density then. Thanks again for your help
Paul Candler (BlueBot) checking in
in Coffee corner
Posted · Edited by Guest
Has there been any news concerning Paul's work ?
Sorry if the answer to this is obvious, I've been out of the loop for some time