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coofercat

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Everything posted by coofercat

  1. I've been printing the prusa visor designs too - the MK3-2 version uses 60% less plastic, and prints in much less time. It doesn't stack though, so for stacks you're back to using the slightly bigger design (which has been updated with little posts between visors which just snap off, rather than the older chimneys). One problem I have on my UMO is stringing - just strings across the curve of the face shield. I can't see any head movements that account for it (watching the "preview" in cura, I can't see the head ever make a short-cut across the band, and I don't think there's any re
  2. Finally mounted the QR by four hard drive silencers I had kicking about - the extruder now makes almost no noise (certainly not compared to the rest of the printer). The QR I bought was labelled as "Ultimaker 2", so doesn't have a way to fit to the UMO's sort of drop-in slot design. I drilled 2 holes and used two of the slot holes to mount the extruder. One gotcha I had was that in the initial install, the extruder seemed to put electrical noise onto the temperature sensor. I tried everything - separating wires, twisting wires, messing with the fan, fiddling with bits and pieces, y
  3. Not sure about "best", but I decided to go in hard and bought a Bondtech QR (which is no where near the cheapest either!). It's currently mounted by two cable ties, but so far seems to be working very nicely. Calibration was unexpected - I thought I'd just be able to use the datasheet quoted esteps, but seems that was too low (possibly because I have silentstep stepper drivers?).
  4. I'm leaning towards just buying something in - what I really want is a physical button to extrude, which when you let go stops extruding (and the same for retract, move x/y/z etc). I don't really need a display - I mostly use Octoprint for that. But you're right, some of the cheap controllers are about £10, although without a case, so I'd have to print one for it.
  5. I'm wondering if I could make my own Ulticontroller or similar? There are a couple of connections to the electronics, and then of course the firmware would need to know about my creation, but maybe I could make it Ulticontroller or Reprap Discount Controller (or other) compatible...? I'm looking at maybe making a cut-down sort of ulticontroller - the aim being to just have head movement and extruder controls (I don't need the SD card stuff). I could just go for a super-cheap controller and use that (although I'm not sure about how great any of them really are for this stuff)?
  6. Looks a lot like this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bertho-boman (which has been on my printer for many years, and is very good!)
  7. Not so sure about the map, but there are a bunch of folks in the UK making visors for the NHS: https://github.com/seanmtracey/PPE-Visor-Fabrication-Instructions (if you're in the UK and have spare printer-time, can you help them out? They also need laser cut acetate and elastic, if you happen to have either of those to hand too)
  8. I have an original, UMO (not the plus) - and the gnurled wheel is worn and so not very gnurled and not gripping the filament any longer. Getting a replacement is now expensive and slow (best I've found is something like 15 euro, international). I'm wondering if I should instead upgrade the whole extruder to some other model? I see lots of people have done things along these lines, but I'm unclear which is the "best", or what the implications are. Just to cover this off, I'm sure any replacement won't use the same mounting, and I'm fine with having to make some sort of c
  9. You make a good point - "security of supply" is probably as important as anything else. Parts and information about the early UMOs are getting harder and harder to google.
  10. That looks like the sort of thing I'd prefer - still not cheap, but none of them seem to be. Thanks!
  11. I've got one of the early Ultimaker Originals (not plus). I have my suspicions that the temperature sensor may have room for improvement (most obviously, even set at 270C, it doesn't seem to melt ABS terribly well, and a probe held onto the block reads 250C). My question is... what should I look to replace it with? I could buy another exactly the same from the resellers, but they're expensive: https://3dgbire.com/collections/spare-parts/products/thermocouple-sensor?variant=1079466129 (and maybe no better than what I already have?). However, I'm happy to fiddle with firmware and wha
  12. I designed the feet around some RC model shock absorbers (which are adjustable to take account of the extra weight at the back of the printer). I'm going to upload to youmagine, but it seems to only accept if there's a photo, and my last attempt didn't seem to want to upload photos properly. I've just attached a few files here. The shocks I used seem to have gone, but were these: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GPSL8HM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've finally got the feet onto Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/spring-loaded-so
  13. Pictures - great idea: https://www.flickr.com/photos/14363379@N04/albums/72157711272133246/with/48874135048/ (apologies for my rather hurried and slap-dash camera work!)
  14. It's been a while, but I think I'm now at a point where I can press "print" and (more or less), the printer will just do it. The work is never done, and I'm sure some more tweaks would be nice, but anything further is polish, rather than 'core' requirement. I think my complete list of changes to the as-delivered original-UMO are: - "Owen clamp" on the bowden - Pop Stop on the bowden - Extruder multi-clip on the bowden - "Bertho" extruder clip - New fan shroud - Adjustable z-stop - Heated bed kit + borosilicate glass - Spring loaded fee
  15. Just to say, my TMC2130s arrived, so I hurriedly tried to get them to work. They're not quite a 'drop in replacement' for the UMO's own drivers, although they're quite easy to get going if you want a bit of a project. The bulk of the work of getting the electronics sorted is nicely documented here: The TMCs have a larger heatsink and are a little bit thicker than the originals, so they don't fit under the wooden electronics cover. To resolve this and complete the project, I did the following: - Remove the top piece of the wooden electronics cover, whatever fan you have
  16. Wow folks - thanks so much! I'm loving those pictures. It makes me wonder if I should paint my printer!? I had no idea changing a stepper driver could reduce the noise of the stepper, although now I think of it, it makes sense. I'll look into getting some of those in. An Ulticontroller does look like a good idea - I seem to remember it being a bit too expensive way-back-whenever, which is what lead me down the path of using a Raspberry Pi instead (my plan there was to run CUPS and make my Ultimaker look like a regular printer on the network - way back, I wrote a gcode s
  17. Hmm... definitely worth thinking about. I'm in the UK, and found this: https://3dgbire.com/collections/spare-parts/products/hot-end-pack I can't remember ever having a teflon part - I've got a PEEK part, but from memory, the Bowden pushes straight into it (there also seems to be an additional brass part I don't have). I believe in mine it goes Bowden -> PEEK -> (alu block) -> nozzle. By the looks of things, there's been a bit of a design adjustment that could help me out - I'll bash the credit card ? The saga of printing continues - I tried to print a 7.5
  18. I've just had some extrusion problem. By the looks of it, the filament got thickened up in the hot end and then blocked the extruder. Not terrible to fix, but obviously means a failed print and a bit of tugging filament out of the hot end. However... I guess what I really wanted to know is if there were any developments in the last few years that could help me - and by the sounds of it, there haven't really been. I wondered if maybe the electronics had grown in power and complexity, or if the feeder had had a few redesigns (I see a few on Youmagine, some including different stepper
  19. The Marlin Builder seems to be the way to go - I more or less used the defaults, apart from guessing the temperature sensor of my heated bed. I built the firmware and uploaded it, and now the 'jog' functions all work, the heated bed is reading a sane value and the hotend (and bed) heat up when asked to do so. I haven't actually tried a print with it yet - that'll have to wait until the weekend. That worked out a lot easier than I thought it would - although I wonder why Cura's UMO firmware didn't at least make the basic printer work...? (I'd excuse it not working with the heated be
  20. Great advice - thanks very much. In terms of use, I've got a couple of ABS prints in mind (some stuff that'll go outside, so PLA won't cut it), but nothing too complicated. After that, PLA is probably the weapon of choice for most jobs I'll end up doing. One day I'd like to try and get a Team UnLimbited arm out of it (http://www.teamunlimbited.org/) - something for my kids and their school to learn about. My fan shroud is actually printed, although it looks a bit melted, so I think it's time for a new one! I actually do have a Bertho feeder mod, and a couple of things t
  21. I've got one of the very early Ultimaker Originals. It's had a few tweaks and tucks here and there, but let's assume it's pretty much as sold. The one exception is that I do have a heated bed (3rd party Alu sheet + glass top). I haven't used it in a couple of years, but am looking to get back to 3D printing. My experience was that I could get some good stuff out of it, but that I needed to fiddle with it quite a bit to keep it running smoothly and to 'optimise' prints. Let's assume limitless budget... what upgrades, tweaks or customisations should I look into? I'm really looking to
  22. Thanks for that - I get zero volts across the two heater terminals - but then, as the light doesn't come on, it means that the board isn't even trying to heat (it took me a few minutes for 'the penny to drop' last night when I was looking at it). I do have 12V available, so when it tries to heat, it'll (hopefully) get some volts though. The most obvious problem is when you get a crazy temperature reading the board doesn't heat because it may overheat the head. However, in this case the temperature reading isn't super accurate, but it is reasonable, and does change with temperature,
  23. I've got one of the very early Ultimaker Originals (back when they were just called "Ultimaker"). It's got version 1.5.4 electronics, and has had a few bits and bobs added over the years, most notably a heated bed. It's been packed in a box for about 3 years, before which it definitely worked. Somewhat foolishly, I immediately upgraded the firmware, although maybe I should have tried it before I did that. Long story short: it's not attempting to heat the hot end. There's an LED which lights when the heater is on, and this never lights up. The temperature sensor seems to be working
  24. Oh wow - I love that muli-coloured bowl - what a great idea! I also like the heated tube idea - that sounds a bit like the filament clamp project, home-made style. It's such a simple solution, I think I'll have a go at making it myself. In the meantime, I'll try some of the multi-coloured idea. Thanks all :-)
  25. I've been using up some length of filament to make a few things, and so now have a few lengths of different coloured filaments of about 1-2 metres (or a bit longer). Obviously, once the length gets down to about 75cm the extruder can't push it up the bowden, so these lengths don't seem especially useful. I can't think of anything productive to do with the short lengths. There's a filament welder project (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6688-filament-welding-clamp/) in the works, but no word on when it might go into production. What do other people do with random short lengths o
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