gadgetfreak

Like Daid wrote, an Olsson ruby core will/would work with active leveling. To increase the likeliness of an official Olsson ruby core, please submit your interest here: http://olssonruby.com/contact/ (And yes, it works well also in a UM3... ;-)

We have never seen this before, and we have a lot of Olsson ruby nozzles out being used heavily all over the world. I'm not sure what what might have happened, but in case you don't get it solved, just e-mail to info@olssonruby.com and we will provide you with a replacement, and ask you to return yours for analysis. Thanks Daniel

Brim - or manual "mouse ears" certainly helps a lot to reduce warping/lifting corners when printing big rectangular plate geometries such as many architectural models. I can understand the frustration that it limits the max print area, but why do you find it difficult to remove? Normally I can just peel it off by hand and then use a simple deburring tool to trim the outer edges. /Daniel

Very good descriptions and explanations in the changelog! The could be a really awesome Christmas present if it works as described Looking forward to hear feedback from users. Perhaps even from myself, too bad the UM3s are at the office and it's Christmas....

We have Olsson blocks and nozzles in stock, the Extrusion upgrade kits is out of stock right now. But we expect to have them in stock in about 2-3 weeks to also stock up our resellers across Scandinavia and the Baltics. In Norway that is 3DNet and Japanphoto. Check Ultimaker.com for all resellers per country! Daniel / 3DVerkstan

We have a support article on this since a long time ago, perhaps it helps? It also describes and links to the thick box trick that Valcrow references. Start here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#scratches

Now that's really really frustrating I can imagine. You have the benefit of having 2 machines to compare with. I would take one of the working machines and start switching one component at a time from this working machine with the same component of the layers-not-touching-machine and start prints concurrently to see if the behaviour at some point changes. I would start with some non-apparent things like physical placement of the machines (because it's easy; sometimes the location like a cold drag or similar could affect printing) Then maybe the physical outlets. Then switching the filament rolls. Then perhaps change the electronics boards. Then the entire print head assembly. Then the feeder. Then....the glass bed? The heated aluminum plate.... ....and, well, if you would have the endurance to go through it, it would be very interesting to hear about the results. Good luck!!

Well not as a standard but perhaps with a lot of effort it could perhaps be made to. Challenges: - i think Ultem requires a processing temp of around 350-360C and the UM2 is limited to 260C. Possible solution: hw and sw modification is possible, I think Anders Olsson managed to go up to 350C with 3dsolex I2K washer (to prevent the PTFE coupler from softening) when using a modified fw to allow for higher temps. - I think Ultem 9085 is only available in 1.75mm size from what I've seen. Possible solution: modify extrusion train to accept 1.75mm, it can be done. You might want to examine the Stratasys Fortus line of machines, many of them support the Ultem 9085 material. I wonder if brass nozzles would work well or if any other nozzle material is needed? Please go ahead and try, I am interested in the results

Hi, h2befjon - you have gotten good advice here. I can recommend a pretty extensive collection of tips, tricks and troubleshooting at our support pages at support.3dverkstan.se and as an example you can see the shell thickness tip here.

Nice work. The biggest improvement from Roberts feeder IMHO is that it makes feeding flexible filaments easier when using the optional plate to restrict sideways movement of the filament. Is it compatible with this mod?

Kris gives good advice. ABS is quite prone to shrinking. You could also try: - Lower cooling fans / even turn them off (I think the default ABS profile is set to 50%; try with 0%). - Redesign the model so that stress is minimized. Straight angles with thick parts will always be prone to warping and re-modeling relieve this stress might help. Some good advice from nophead at item 11 and 12 in this link: http://www.makerbot.com/blog/2011/06/23/12-ways-to-fight-warping-and-curling/ Also, what is the reason why you need to use ABS? If it is because you need a higher heat tolerance, please consider other alternatives such as Colorfabb XT which is available in many colors, including black. It has a glass transition temperature of about 75 degrees Celsius and is also tougher than both PLA and ABS, but shrink about as little as PLA; significantly less than ABS. This might be the easiest path actually if it meets your material requirements. Good luck. Daniel

There are many manufacturers and service providers for stainless steel printing. They all have different strengths. Some are better at details and small parts and others are focusing on high strength. What is your application / requirements ? Is it an art object or something for function? What is the size?

Very nice post, thank you for sharing. Did you ever try extruding PLA and if so was it more difficult? Keep up the good work!

We've seen these on a few occasions when printing with XT (a type of PET). But I think we have never seen it if there was glue (from a glue stick) in between. So use some extra glue for PET prints would be my advice.

More sensors and a closed loop system is definitely the way to go! I don't that it has to be very expensive. But I also think that if it means a lot of added reliability etc, people would easily pay 50-100% more of the current UM2 cost.

MMartin, very interesting post, thank you for sharing! I think that if you have a lot of constraints like in the dimension machine, only ABS, a very tightly controlled environment like with the heated chamber, the exact same type of materials etc, it gets a lot easier to get consistency and reliability in output. The openness and flexibility (open filament system, both ABS and PLA) of the Ultimaker 2 that makes it great, at the same time makes it a lot harder to get consistency and reliability out of it when trying to develop dual-extrusion for example. But of course good designs and ideas should be reused, however I think that the lightness of the head of the Ultimaker family makes some of the solutions working for the heavy printers impossible to use on the UM. I think that new ideas like Foehnsturms magnetic cartridge might be the way forward... Just my 2 cents /Daniel

Maybe not direct answers to your questions, but Ryan (meshmixer author/inventor) has done some fabulous work on support structures. You could look at this presentation for ideas: http://papervideos.s3.amazonaws.com/SupportStructuresSG14.pptx For your question 3, I think it might work for very simpme models where the support structure is not too complex and did not interfere with head movement during build. What if you printed such a support structure and coated it with something that could be rinsed off with warm water. Not sure exactly what though...

Keep up the cool mod guys! Good work.

Excellent experimenting Anders!!

Sometimes after transport, cables could get loose from vibrations, that's my hunch without more info.

Sounds like it might be something wrong with the temp sensor...if it's that random? Check for loose cables on the electronics board. How old is your machine?

Some other thoughts: Sugru or Plastidip perhaps?

I haven't tried it myself but you can perhaps try silicone? No idea how well it adheres to PLA though...

Good work Anders! I'll make sure to notify Ultimaker HQs hotend designer on this to see if he can make time for some comments. /Daniel

It could be anything that causes the extruded plastic to curl up against the side, like a damaged nozzle tip or old dried plastic/plug etc I guess...usually after a long failed night print.