[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

RobMiles, thanks for your input. I have calibrated the bed as good as I possibly can and with a model with this little width, it's actually quite forgiving.

I did have a warped bed over a year ago, but the bed and initial height I'm pretty sure I nailed down good now.

Daid and others: I have now updated the album with pictures of the owl I printed over night. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good and a lot better than the UM Robot. You can also see the fan.

 

I'll try to print the UM Robot in high quality (0.1mm layer height, 220 degrees) next.

 

Thanks for keeping up the troubleshooting

 

[Shifting in "Two story spec house" thingiverse model]

Related to this and the excellent picture from Jake showing different temperature effects on a print:

It would be so good if Ultimaker (the company) could select (with help form the community) a set of different calibration models that could be printed in Cura project planner with different temperatures (range of 5-10 degrees perhaps) to aid in calibration and troubleshooting.

Then Ultimaking could/should put up pictures of all of these test prints so that you could tell what a good print would look like (when mechanics are ok).

Do you think this is feasible? Or are there just too many combinations?

I think if there are 5-10 different models with pictures for different type of objects that would improve learning for many users.

Even one, two or three models that were standardized with pictures and temperatures / slicing profiles would be a big improvement in my eyes.

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

Thanks Joergen, I'll keep that in mind when slicing next time, it will save a lot of time to have 0% infill.

(actually, when i wrote solid I meant Cura default which I think is 20%).

But it does feel kind of nice with the "heavy" owl, and I guess it's more of challenge to the mechanics (to verify it's working ok) when printing long prints.

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

I have a printed fan duct "The Florian push fit variant" and it seems almost impossible it would cool the print head?

I'm printing an owl right now (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18218) - it will take about 18 hours because it's a solid print, and if it turns out well with all the details (I printed a really nice one a month ago in green translucent) I guess we could write off the fan as being the culprit, would you agree?

I'll take pictures of the owl tomorrow once it's finished after work.

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

I think the pyramid came out pretty well.

That's why I think it might not be a mechanical issue.

But I'm surprised that the UM Robot would not print well with Cura defaults....how sensitive is it?

I mean if you guys (Joergen and illuminarti) would print it at 0.2mm layer height and 50mm/s and "default" Cura settings, would it come out good in a large temperature interval, or would you say the model is picky about the slicing parameters?

The benefit of using the UM Robot is that it's quite fast to print and is included per default in Cura, which most Ultimaker operators have (although I know that some of you might use Kisslicer or Netfabb as your default slicer).

 

[Shifting in "Two story spec house" thingiverse model]

illuminarti, any advice on what is considered "safe" or "too extreme" settings/combinations?

Is this model just to hard to print with Cura defaults? i.e. 50mm/s 0.2mm layer height (in my second try with similar results I used 0.15 lh) and 0.8mm wall thickness?

Thanks

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

Is it a problem to print the UM robot with 0.2mm layer height?

I can't see that the fan duct would be cooling th printer head....

Now I just printed the hollow pyramid (should it be harder or not?) - updated pics in the same gallery as above - with this profile:

;TYPE:CUSTOM

M92 E833.000000

M109 S205.000000

;Sliced T:\Ultimaker Stockholm\Models\Hollow_Calibration_Pyramid\Hollow_Pyramid.stl at: Fri 22 Feb 2013 13:37:43

;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.8 Fill: 20

;Print time: 0:44

;Filament used: 0.59m 4.99g

;Filament cost: Unknown

G21 ;metric values

G90 ;absolute positioning

M107 ;start with the fan off

G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops

G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops

G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 ;reset software position to front/left/z=0.0

G1 Z15.0 F180

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

G1 F200 E10

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again

G1 F9000

;LAYER:0

;TYPE:SKIRT

Does it tell you anything from the pictures?

Daniel.

 

[Shifting in "Two story spec house" thingiverse model]

gr5, that's a lot of really interesting information, thanks.

I have also in other models seen bad extrusion, like after a few layers the infill looks a bit sparse (regardless of PLA color). But since the intial layer always look good, I'm not sure where the root cause of that problem lies.

I will not have time to make more test prints of the house for some days now and I think I would most likely design some other test object with small pillars combined with walls to see if I can reproduce the problem without waiting a couple of hours into the print...

If somebody else [with well working mechanics, strecthed belts etc] would be able to make a test print of the first floor I would be really grateful.

@PrintedSolid, are you up for that? ;-)

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

If that's Ultimaker-White-PLA, you might need to increase the temperature a bit. (White PLA is not the easiest PLA to fabricate or to work with)

 

Thanks Daid.

It is Ultimaker-White-PLA (soon 2 years old) but it has been working fine for other prints, also printing fairly low temp.

I'm right now trying to print the hollow pyramid at 205 degrees to see how that turns out. I'll add it to the album soon.

But the UM robot looks quite bad with Orange PLA as well (check the album).

But how does the Ultimaker robot usually turn out at the overhangs (bottom of the robot belly for example) for you when you calibrate your printers?

If I recall correctly, you use a tweaked Kisslicer profile for printing those, but I assume you have printed it directly from Cura as well?

I'd like to print with a "known good profile/slicer" so perhaps if I could get the actual gcode for that UM robot you print, then I can test to see whether it is a mechanical/hardware problem or not

Is it a hard model to print?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Shifting in "Two story spec house" thingiverse model]

gr5, thanks for your comments and links.

I already have belt tensioners (springs from clothes pegs) on there but it seems that the belts have stretched since this was done (over a year ago).

I cannot fit more spring and at the same time have it print over the whole area of the bed easily.

I have a set of replacements belts but have not been wanting to disassemble the whole X-Y gantry and re-calibrate it, but if that's what it takes I guess I need to do it.

But Daid wrote that the tightness of the long belts are not as important as one might think. I did have other shifting problems and oval circle problems before tightening up the short belts.

But as can be seen inte the gallery of pictures, the concentric circles print and 20mm box show no shifting. But those objects might be "easy" in comparison to wide-area objects?

Perhaps this particular model where there are so many "pillars" and short segments are really putting a the long belts to the test?

I did re-tighten the pulley screws prior to the print so they should not be the source or the error.

One problem is that is takes such a long time before the error is shown.

Perhaps I can find a model with these type of pillars (or I design my own) as a test object.

If anyone else would care do to a test print I would be happy

PrintedSolid: It sure is a cool model...I just want to be able to do a nice print of it!

/Daniel

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

All was Cura default (apart from Steps per E which I changed to 833)

Speed: 50mm/s

Layer height: 0.2mm

Wall thickness: 0.8

Print order: Loops > Perimeter > Infill

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

I checked, for the 12.12A sliced one I used 210 degress, and 220 degrees in the 13.03 one.

But still, it should be better, no?

 

[Ultimaker Robot prints bad]

I thought it would be quite "easy" to print the Ultimaker robot from Cura, but I get bad results.

I get good results when printing a 20mm test cube or concentric circles.

But the overhangs in the Ultimaker Robot seems to give really bad prints for me :(

Can anyone give any feedback?

Also, it looks like when slicing in Cura 12.12A the result is better than in 13.03 - think I've used the same settings (0.2mm, 220 degrees) but I _might_ have had 210 in the other...

Check this album out:

 

[Shifting in "Two story spec house" thingiverse model]

Hi guys,

I'm trying to print:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26244

and so far only the first floor (stl file "FIXED_Spec_House_1st_Floor.stl").

With bad results :(

I have an almost two-year-old UM (8mm rods) upgraded to v2 hotend / v3 bolt. A little bit slack in long belts (should be ok I think), no slack in short belts.

I've sliced it in both

Cura 12.12A / 0.2mm layer height / 50mm/s / Temp 210 / retraction (I forgot the clip on that print)

and

Cura 13.03 / 0.15mm layer height / 100mms /s Temp 210 / retraction

but with about the similar result.

Most parts of the house and furniture gets shifted in both X and Y direction, more so in the window parts or pillars.

Can anyone try to print it and see if it comes out better for you?

In this album I have pictures of the print and also of smaller calibration objects printed with the same plastic just after the second print. It's a 20mm test cube and "concentric circles" They look fine.

 

I'm guessing the house is pretty hard since it's big and because of the small pillars. Could it be done better with another slicer?

It would be nice to see someone else try.

Thanks.

Daniel

 

[Z height repeatability]

Thanks for input Joergen.

Would the spring make any improvement to X or Y (it seems the bed can shift/vibrate in X and Y sometimes I've seen)?

o you have part numbers or details of the springs you are using?

Daniel

 

[Z height repeatability]

Hi Daid

I have screwed and glued the piece of wood between between 2 arms from underneath. The screws are self tapping screws screwed in from a 45 degree angle at the corners where the arm meets the wood.

Also in my pre Gcode I move the nozzle to X100 Y0 and the push the platform into it 1mm and then back away. This is to overcome historesis. That is if you push the platform down and release it will come back to a different spot then if you push it up and release.

So this makes it so you are always pushing it down slightly and releasing before the start of a print.

Owen

 

Owen, this sounds nice, do you have any pictures?

Did you also upgrade to stiffer/heavier springs for the bed and if so - did it make a difference?

/Daniel

 

[Colorfabb – filament producer from the Netherlands!]

Gijs, this looks really good.

What is the glass transition temperature, is it higher than normal PLA (58 to 65 degrees Celsius)?

I.e. can it withstand heat more than normal PLA?

Also, what about post-processing of it compared to PLA? Is it as sensitive/picky? I think THF is one of the few solvents that can polish PLA.

Can you produce a "rainbow pack" like Faberdashery? I would order it immediately for testing....

Cheers,

Daniel

 

[How to see more than five topics/posts by a member or in recent topics?]

Hi,

When I browse members and view the posts they have made, I can only see five (5) of their posts. There is no "Next" or scrolll option for example.

Some contribute a lot and it's interesting sometimes to many of their posts when I have some time on my hands) .

Is this a setting that can be changed in their forum software?

I also wonder whether there is a function for "active topics/threads" as there are in some forums? I think I can only see the latest five (5) ones, there is no "Next button" etc.

Thanks

Daniel

 

[Following all topics (and even all forums) automatically]

I would also like to know if this is possible, I would use it.

 

[Germanys Biggest and Best 3D Print Technology Fair FABCON]

I would like to attend this fair (and also meet with you Ian since I'm also keen on getting into printing architectural models, both for hobby and perhaps business) but it seems to be "in the middle of noware".

The "Erhurt-Waiman airport" link on the travel page:

http://www.fabcon-germany.com/en/service/travelling-to-messe-erfurt.html

makes me believe it's a very small airport offering only flight to/from Antalya/Mallorca?

I've posted some questions on this via the contact form of Facbon-germany web site so I'll see what they say.

Ian: How and when are you travelling there?

 

[FDM Design guidelines]

I found this when googling for various FDM stuff:

https://www.solidconcepts.com/resources/dg/fused-deposition-modeling-fdm-design-guidelines/

It seems specific for the SolidConcepts company/processes/machines but is general enough as to have value to us Ultimaker operators I think!

Here is an example from the page:

"Threads

When designing built-in threads, avoid sharp edges and include a radius on the root. Sharp edges can be stress concentrators in plastic parts. Creating an ACME thread design with rounded roots and crests has been found to work well when using FDM. Also, use a “dog point” head of at least 1/32 in. (0.8 mm). This dog point design makes starting the thread much easier. Small threads produced from the FDM process are not recommended and not possible for holes or posts smaller than a 1/16 in. (1.6 mm) diameter. An easy alternative is to use a tap or die to thread holes or posts.

"

 

[Cannot start new topics in the different sub-forums]

Is it by purpose to disallow this for beta testing?

/D

 

[How to improve strength]

How did it go?

Did you try higher temps and/or lower speeds and did you get a stronger part?

Daniel

[Filament help needed]

Hi reprapgeek!

I'd like to test 1.75mm PLA in my Ultimaker...what modifications did you make?

Thanks,

Daniel