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Everything posted by gadgetfreak

  1. We had to remove such blocks two times over about 10 months...it could be time consuming or pretty quick to remove it. Try with removing the fan shroud first if possible. Heat the hot end and use pliers and a soldering iron to remove pieces of the blob. Last time it took only 10 minutes I think. You can ask Anders tomorrow about it, he did it pretty fast.
  2. Really nice tip with double brim and ribs! Thanks for sharing.
  3. We sell high quality ABS to the Swedish market: http://3dverkstan.se/product/abs-black-1kg Also, if your Ultimaker 2 was delivered to Sweden or any of the Nordic countries we will support you, please send a message to support@3dverkstan.se. BR Daniel
  4. Gijs, I agree completely. It's a design flaw in my opinion. We have also suggested a design change for future revisions/hotends. Meanwhile ask UM for a replacement pt100 if it breaks.
  5. Your PTFE coupler might be deformed if it is the old non-glassfilled version and you printed for high temps lots of hours. Order a new Ultimaker 2 PTFE coupler as spare part or request a new if it's within warranty. It usually helps in case you have eliminated other factors, performed Atomic Method etc. I think that should do the trick!
  6. We have several customers with over 1000 hours per UM2 only printing production parts in ABS so it definitely works. Do you have high quality ABS? Should be 2.85mm nominally and never above 3mm. Also different ABS brands can vary up to 20 degrees in temps. Also check our troubleshooting and material guides on support.3dverkstan.se which might help if you have a general problem. Also a glass filled PTFE coupler helps when printing higher temps as is the case with ABS. Check it by trying to make a mark with a normal carbon pencil on the white coupler. If it leaves a mark it is glass filled.
  7. Exactly where was the hardened ABS ring? At the bottom of the PTFE (inside) or below it (at the metal hot end isolator, the part with holes around it?) Also, did you do the atomic with ABS or PLA and at what temperature?
  8. I just ordered a 3mm sample. It will be ver interesting to test it however I'm expecting it will take a few weeks for it to reach Sweden...
  9. With the help of the very skilled maker Erik (Meduza on the forums), we got his help in machining two UM2 nozzles to 0.8mm hole and with a bigger shoulder to match the bigger hole. The shoulder is 1.6mm across, so 0.4mm on each side of the hole. See his excellent instructions on Youmagine here. the vase (Propellor from here) is printed with 0.5mm layer height at 40mm/s and a single 0.8mm wall. Which calculates to 16mm3/s. It is not perfect so some tuning is in order. Probably the layer height is a bit too height for the speed/cooling possible with standard fans. We tried to find the extrusion limit and used Illuminartis standard test cylinder "UM2-noret-ExtrusionTest-3-10mm3" and tuned the flow to 200%. We used Colorfabb Ultramarine Blue at 230C and it passed the "8mm3/s" fine which should then be equivalent to 16mm3/s with 200% flow. At "9mm3/s" i.e. 18mm3/s it started to underextrude. Daniel
  10. EldRick, I really like your anti-seize compound idea. Any particular type you would recommend and what is a good way of applying it to multiple parts?
  11. Hmm, yes frustrating I can imagine. I can also imagine the particular colorant playing a part in how hard the perhaps carbonized plastic sticks to the inside. Did you try cold pull with Nylon? Bukobot recommends Nylon 618 and the article is excellent: http://bukobot.com/nozzle-cleaning Could it be also that nylon sticks better to carbonized pla? The quest for as-clean-as-possible-nozzles continues
  12. EldRick, thanks for sharing. I'm curious as to whether/how many times you tried the Atomic a.k.a. Cold pull method before doing the disassembly/chemical cleaning? It might even be useful to try cold pulls with different materials such as pla, abs and nylon. I got out some black stuff with nylon on one UM2 where PLA did not seem to catch on to it.
  13. I recall something like power cycling being needed on the very first units...Anders, what is your serial number/when did you receive your unit? I think Daid might know if I might be right or not...
  14. I think i had this issue once and solved it by some soldering. Check my previous posts via my profile!
  15. Daid, in the light of Simons explanations can you include his patches in a new release? The 14.06.2 fw still grinds in most cases/machines but simons code works flawlessly... Thanks
  16. I like anon4321s comment. Once I had a misdirected fan on an UM Original which made the nozzle never come up in temperature. Valcrow, do you have an UM2 or an UM Original. If you have an UM Original, is it with a heated bed. For UM2 the fans would come on full at 0.5mm into the print as per standard however I can't remember whether this is the case for an Ultimaker Original with a heated bed as well? Like anon4321, check the fans!
  17. Axel, you can drop by us if you want to borrow a Torx driver! We have some scheduled meetings, but you know my phone number I'm not sure we have replacement screws on the shelf but we will order some. Cheers Daniel
  18. Daid, the 14.06.2 fw is still very broken in that it grinds the filament in every started print. We tried it at least two times and then we had to revert to Simons patch. I think if you include the patches that relates to the two comments Simon stated here above we should have a well working release...
  19. Also Meshmixer can be used but the procedure/GUI is not that easy to learn. Once you have learned it you can do stuff fast though...
  20. I've tried the patched fw on a few prints, it works very well for me, no more grinding
  21. Also, a little tip to everybody who has experienced the grinding. It can be time-consuming to clean the mess that grinding does. It is hard to access the grub/socket screw that locks the feeder screw in place to the motor shaft. Basically you need to disassemble the feeder to access it at a straight angle. What we have done is to just use a power drill to remove some material from the black ring of the plastic housing. Then after aligning the socket/grub screw you can easily access it with the smallest key in UM2 kit or a Torx T6 screwdriver. See attached pictures: The last image is from the assembly manual. I added it because it shows clearly that the feeder screw/sleeve should be flush with the top of the motor shaft/axle.
  22. Didier, I did not. It's an interesting test, however I strongly feel that the new firmware needs to be backward compatible - at least with 14.x. Most people have hundreds of models already sliced in previous versions and I would say this behaviour is far from acceptable.
  23. By the way, we also got this reported yesterday from a customer after we recommended they would upgrade to 14.06.1 fw so I'm pretty certain there is a "bug" in that firmware.
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