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gadgetfreak

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Everything posted by gadgetfreak

  1. Nicolinux and others, I can confirm that 14.06.1 firmware does indeed grind the filament at the start of a print. Changing filament works fine but starting a new print (tried with Illuminartis standard test cylinder "UM2-noret-ExtrusionTest-3-10mm3.gcode" as well as another gcode) grinds the filament at the start of every print, just like in your videos. I did the test twice with Colorfabb Blueish White filament (is a little bit softer so might grind even easier than pure PLA) and it grinded both time at start (I hade to re-load/clean). Then I downgraded to Cura 14.03 firmware (by starting Cura 14.03 and selecting Machine->install default firware) and then the same gcode printed without grinding. My recommendation would be NOT to upgrade (unless you want to verify the behaviour). /Daniel
  2. Settings might be widely different depending on model. If you upload pictures and links to models and what version of Cura you are using you will get the best feedback
  3. There are other bugs in 14.03 affecting surface quality so try latest beta at software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta
  4. I recall someone had a softwsre firewall issue with 14.03, the internal communication was changed I thin sibce 14.03...check your fw settings to allow cura to communicate with itself?
  5. selmo, did you try with loctite yet and did it solve your problem?
  6. Yes try a high quality Torx driver I think it's T8 size if my mind serves me right st this early hour
  7. I've found that a chip lifter tool is excellent for separating JST connectors (we've replaced a number of noisy UM2 fans): http://www.wiha.com/finland/Onlineshop/ESD-safe-tools4/279-10-Wiha-Precision-ESD-Chip-lifter Just insert and wiggle and off it comes
  8. You should definitely register a support case with Ultimaker on this one. Let us know what response you get. Where are you located?
  9. Some wrong grammar in there from writing tired from a mobile phone but I hope you get my message...
  10. The grub screw should make contact with the flat part of the motor axle. Can you disassemble and see if this is the case? We've seen machine that seems to have been assembled the wrong way and thus the grub screw would need to be loosened again and again...proper solution would be to mount it towrds the flattened part.
  11. I think Amsterdam would make for a central place with good flight connections and also then UM could most likely bring a big bunch of machines there for all to print with. Perhaps Sander as Community Manager could set this up? It would be really cool!
  12. Juha, PM me your address and I can send a few acupuncture needles for free. If you are in a hurry you can try a guitar string or buy an epidermic needle in your local pharmacy.
  13. What's the total print time and weight of the feeder and case parts Robert?
  14. Robert, I'm on the Norwegian coast on vacation all week but Anders sent me a picture of both the feeder, the custom made case and the NinjaFlex BMX handle...what can I say? I'm absolutely delighted and really impressed!! Can't wait to get back to try it out. I'm actually back for the MakerFaire in Stockholm (Sunday for my part) and I think we'd like to proudly display the feeder and NinjaFlex printing on one of our Ultimaker 2 units there. I think you should join us we can talk more over e-mail the coming days. I'm very happy that we're now able to print very flexible material with our UM2s.
  15. Nice testing Robert!! Did you manage to solve the twisting of the filament somehow? How many meters of print was the frog? I think that it would be an interesting test to put the roll/spool directly in front/below the feeder instead of at a 90 degree angle (like the stock feeder) to see whether it has any effect. Also did you check Sanjays thread with recommendations on printing flexible filament, especially these notes: "You can't eliminate ooze entirely with these filaments is the conclusion I came to, but there are strategies you can take that make a huge improvement to how they print. The first is to print at a completely constant velocity, for perimeters, infill, everything. Make it quite slow - around 30mm/s all round - don't use a slower first layer. The reason for this is that we want to print this stuff in as much of a steady state system as possible. Changes in velocity and extrude rate affect the output flow rate of the extrudate in a drastic way. Travel moves should be made as quickly as your machine can handle them. Retraction should be aggressive and quite long. I usually use 0.5mm for PLA/ABS, for all the flex prints shown I used 1.5mm. Lastly you should watch your temps, higher temps make extruding easier, but the extrudate is runnier and oozes more. Try and print at as low temp as you can get away with. "
  16. ProfePaco, a few notes: 1) I have high hopes on Roberts feeder for printing flexible filament, but no time to test it myself yet. Did you cut off a part of the Bowden tube to use as an insert to have "guiding walls" for flexible filament? See here: https://s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/files.youmagine.com/uploads/image/file/45852/medium_insertBowden.JPG This would be necessary or otherwise the filament would curl, especially at high volume extrusion speeds. Also, 50mm/s at 0.2mm layer height is a pretty high volume extrusion speed (lower either the speed or the layer height to reduce the, but you still need the guiding Bowden). 2) You can measure rubber-like filament with Shore hardness. NinjaFlex is about 85A which is the softest/most rubber-like filament I know of. After that comes The FPE40D which you tested (the link you provided) which is actually pretty soft I think. The FPE45D is a bit harder and can be successfully extruded in the UM2 stock feeder. 3) You might want to ready this thread for pointers on printing flexible filament successfully (I hope Roberts feeder might be a good addition to that thread): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4197-improving-the-um2-feeder-mechanism-for-flexible-filament/ for more info, some of the important stuff from that thread and "Sanjays thread" I pasted below here: "- print at a completely constant velocity, for perimeters, infill, everything. Make it quite slow - around 30mm/s all round - don't use a slower first layer. The reason for this is that we want to print this stuff in as much of a steady state system as possible. Changes in velocity and extrude rate affect the output flow rate of the extrudate in a drastic way. Travel moves should be made as quickly as your machine can handle them. Retraction should be aggressive and quite long. - Printing too quickly, or having the slightest glitch in you extruder-hotend filament path will cause buckling. - these filaments act like a spring when compressed and driven down to the hotend. If your hobbed bolt stops turning there is still stored pressure in the system and filament will continue to extrude/ooze."
  17. Jens, what is the production date of your XT filament? Newer XT needs significantly higher temperature, that's why I'm asking.
  18. Just an update: We've sent spools to Robert and cor3ys for testing and are eagerly awaiting results! We also got offers from other nice people here on the forums but currently the time/budget is up for this little test with sending to them. Fingers crossed for flawless ninjaflex extrusion
  19. Cor3ys, please PM me your address and phone number (needed for shipment w DHL). Robert, of course! Skicka mig din adress på mail igen bara
  20. It would be really really great if somebody could do some testing of Roberts new design for: - NinjaFlex filament (big and long prints like 10 hours or so because short prints of NinjaFlex can be done on UM2 stock feeder) - Loooong print testing (prints between 20 to 50 hours) to see how it holds up any takers? We will ship free filament, both NinjaFlex and standard PLA to the first brave ones (within Europe) that would like to do some testing like that. Please send me a PM if you're up for it! Cheers Daniel
  21. I haven't seen this problem before. It sounds strange. Axel, if you send me the gcode file for which the problems occur - we can make a test print on one of our machines and see if there's something wrong with your particular feeder or if we can reproduce the problem. Please also state how long time it took before the problem started (is it always after a certain time/number of retractions?). What settings on the machine are you using? Like PLA profile and also the retraction settings. If we would find that the feeder would be the culprit you'll of course get a new one Daniel 3DVerkstan
  22. Nicely written Andrew, please continue writing!
  23. This is Daniel from 3DVerkstan, we are the official Ultimaker reseller in Sweden. Currently, we manually inspect every Ultimaker unit when we receive them from Ultimaker to make sure they are in good condition. If they have been damaged in shipping (less likely from now on as we will receive them on pallets) we would get replacements or just fix them if it's a case or misaligned rods or similar. Also, we use a shipping service within Sweden that guarantees "upright" shipping of the unit - a bit more expensive but well worth it to know the unit is not damaged in shipping. We also give 6 months warranty as required by Swedish law. And did I mention we currently have them in stock http://3dverkstan.se/product/ultimaker-2 (we can only deliver within Sweden, sorry to all non-Swedes...)
  24. Thanks for sharing the picture and design Bas. It looks nice. Can you share where the metal ring can be sourced in small numbers? I'm mainly missing an improvement for flexible filament. For flexible filament, "guides" would need to be added directly after the feeder screw so that the plastic cannot go sideways (or out towards the back for that matter). One idea might be to add a "snap-on" part that cover the hole where you can see the feeder bolt. This snap-on would contain these guides and also prevent the filament to go out the back. Do you understand what I mean? Thanks, Daniel
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