gadgetfreak
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Posts posted by gadgetfreak
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It's harder and harder to get by 2GB SD cards nowadays...we use 4GB SDHC cards from Sandisk with no problems.
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It seems several manufacturers have these...like Nyloks "Nylok Blue Patch" or KerbKonus "TufLok The Blue Patch".
Example here:
http://www.klee.dk/wp-content/kleekat/catalog/pdf/kkv60.pdf
No price though.
I've also been wondering why Ultimaker did not choose torx heads.
Because the hex heads wears out after a while, like in the UM Original since the short belts needs to be stretched by untightening the motors, stretching the belt by putting force on the motor and then re-tightening the screws.
For me, the only benefit of using hex screw heads is that with the right screwdriver, you can actually access the screws from an angle, which is a benefit when accessing some hard-to-get-to screws in corners and such...
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An alternative to loctite might be to use coated screws such as nylon or other coatings. There are companies that manufactures and sell such screws but I'm not sure what they cost...
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Excellent testing and very useful information. I guess that in order to have a good extrusion, the feeding mechanism should be even stronger/better than currently in UM2. I wonder which one is considered the best on the market?
And how to measure it?
It needs to handle all kinds of filament, both hard and flexible (though the UM2 feeding mechanism does already handle rubbery filament pretty well, we've tried NinjaFlex as well as FlexPolyester 45D and 40D).
Now with these models you designed it should be possible also to establish a temperature baseline and see what temperature offset is needed for each color. At least within a manufacturers line, for example Colorfabbs PLA/PHA line.
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I can do testing with this model in lots of different plastics on two UM2s but not likely until after the weekend...
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Beautiful work Illuminarti!
Can you repeat with plain PLA?
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Nicolinux, did you ever use any other type of filament than PLA in you UM2?
Also, were you ever able to reproduce the underextrusion in the exact same spots of the print consistently?
We had a lot of sporadic underextrusion after using the beautiful XT. We had run an all-nighter print and filled the fan shroud/hotend with XT because the object loosened from the platform (we didn't use glue that time) and just squirted glue for 10+ hours.
XT is another type of base plastic and to make a "perfect" transition (purge/cleaning) from say ABS to PLA or XT to PLA might be difficult. (I will say that we didn't try to put a lot of time to clean it as we didn't have the time to make a complete disassembly)
After replacing the nozzle to a completely new one it was really smooth again.
That said, we are still getting occasional underextrusion on long prints but that might be also due to friction from the filament guide etc.
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I've been thinking about this ever since I saw the UM2 the first time that the leveling knobs needs to be bigger...I just thought of designing my own ones a day ago and here you come and save me time and with the nice indicator as well...thanks!! I just wish there was room for a bigger height but since the platform homes down I guess that's not possible.
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What firmware are you running? Some older versions of Repetier fw for Deltas could not handle Curas profile string at the end and this same behaviour occured. Try deleting that last line..
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That zombie is awesome!! Is the model publicly available?
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Great ideas with the separation of cold and hot air!
For this purpose, the newly announced iphone 5 add-on from FLIR might be useful - providing you guys have iphone 5s....
http://www.flir.com/flirone/explore/tech-specs.html
Android versions are coming later in 2014.
TheFLIR ONE goes up to 100 degrees Celsius which should be good enough for this purpose.
For experimenting with / troubleshooting hot-ends you need a "proper" thermal imager though and they are still quite expensive....
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I could not get the proposed LED setting workaround from Daid to work either for saving settings.
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I made the mistake of using freezer spray on hot bed too many times so small pieces of glass did come off eventually...now I've stopped using freezer spray directly on hot bed.
For large prints that still is firmly held by the build plate after cooling, I imagine that you could rinse the glass plate in hot water so the glue would dissolve...providing you used the glue stick of course
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That's a very nice implementation with the fork and merge operations, I also really like that you can see the differences.
Now, it's quite hard to make changes based on an STL file so it would be nice if original formats was also supported, somehow in parallel to the STL formats.
I hope something similar will be implemented in Youmagine!
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Problem solved by - I was able to upload the new firmware using another Windows 7 computer!
It actually took two tries - it seems somehow important that the UM2 is powered on before the USB cable is inserted...or perhaps it's because I bricked it first?
Also it might be that my primary workstation has a bit overcrowded USB chain with a lot of devices attached? But it has worked well in the past.
It's a bit ironic that Cura 14.01 states "Improved USB communication stability" but people seems to be having problems updating the firware over USB
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Hi,
I've tried to upgrade the UM2 firmware that comes with Cura 14.01, from Windows 7.
When "Uploading firmware" progress bar appears, it does not finish.
After 5 minutes or so of waiting, I cancelled manually with the upper right cross.
I power cycled the UM2 unit and now it seems bricked with a garbled displayed so I assumed it has begun - but not completed - the firmware image...
I have read that the initial Cura 14.01 upload contained a wrong firmware, but I just downloaded it from software.ultimaker.com so it should contain the correct one I guess.
The file size as reported by Windows Explorer properties is
23,5 MB (24 659 879 bytes).
I even tried to uninstall Cura 14.01, re-download from another browser and re-install, but still hangs at "Uploading firmware". It should only take a couple of minutes at the most from what I recall?
I have not yet tried rebooting the computer as I have some other tasks running that I can't disturb right now.
Anyone else with the same problem?
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We have FW 13.12 and when we change the retraction settings to 5.5mm and 35mm/s, they do not get saved on power cycle.
We also tried changing the LED settings and the LED setting we're saved but the retraction setting cannot be saved no matter what we try...?
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That's funny with the arms.
Have you tried another color? For red filament I usually need 10-15 degrees higher than for a specific green for example, for it not to underextrude at a certain speed/layer height.
My feeling is that it's not temp-related though.
If you print the exact same model, to you get underextrusion at the same location in the model? If so, it's most likely related to the slicer. If not, it's probably mechanical....
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I agree this is really annoying.
If this is would be due to friction from the filament unrolling, has anyone tried to tighten the feeder mechanism a bit?
Perhaps replace the filament guide with some type of rolling bearing to decrease that friction (although I believe that friction to be negligible I can't back that up with test data).
Also, for longer prints it would be useful to record a video stream of both the print and the roll/feeder side, so that exactly when the underextrusion occurs it could be analyzed whether the roll/feeder seem to be the culprit or not...
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Have you only used the orangle Ultimaker PLA with it or have you used other filament at some point?
What is your room temperature? Are you printing indoors at a "room temperature"?
Is the middle fan in the hotend working?
You might also want to buy some 0.3mm syringes (or acupuncture needles) at a local pharmacy store to clean the nozzle while it's hot.
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Nope. output.txt is completely empty.
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It does not seem to work for me. If I have 13.12 beta open and select and STL file from (Windows 7) explorer nothing happens.
I've tried on two different computers (both Windows 7 64-bit).
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Thanks Daid.
I'm not sure it's broken yet, I will check tomorrow on loose cables when I get to the office.
However, my main concern is the noise. I would like to exchange the fan to a silent one.
I found that exact Sunon fan at "TME Electronic Components":
http://www.tme.eu/se/katalog/?idp=1&search=MC25060V2-000U-A99&cleanParameters=1
It's 5EUR for a single one. For 50+ it's 3.85EUR per piece.
They do not have it in stock, it can ship mid January according to their order system (I had to register).
I will not order quite yet, will see if there might be any local options here in Sweden first.
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That is a really good tip Illuminarti. I wanted to order one right away but it turns out I could not order the one from Digikey...I had a chat with their support:
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Judy_ext_2876: I am sorry, but due to contractual agreements with the Vendor, we are unable to export the part you have requested. Would you be interested in a Substitute from another manufacturer if one is available?
Daniel Sjöstrand: oh
Judy_ext_2876: Usually this is because there is another distributer in your area,
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I am now googling for other distributors in Sweden/Europe
Colorfabb's Woodfill 3mm
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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Is it fine (for 0.4mm nozzle upwards) or coarse (for 0.8mm upwards)?