concreteturtle
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Posts posted by concreteturtle
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I'm on my third cooling fan in about 4 months.
Sadly these 75mm blower type fans seem to be all made in the same factory, and no matter which badge they have they are identical. (at least the ones on eBay).
Anyone found a source for a quality replacement?
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Just wanted to add my experiences with this issue.
Everywhere I've spoken to in Aus. requires a minimum 50ft spool if they can get it in at all.
$250 odd is a lot for a replacement.
Maybe if there are a few of us who would like spares we could do a group buy?
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I thought I'd share my experiences with some blue tape I've been trying.
I've bought a few types from my local hardware place (Bunnings) to see how they go. So far the best by far has been scotch blue 2093 (edge lock) tape in a 2" width. After a few weeks of printing with various PLA colours I think I'll stick with it.
The tape is smoother and thinner than the standard blue tape, so getting the first layer right is important. But the big advantage is the reuse of the tape, this tape lasts easily 7 or 8 prints before needing replacement. It's also easier to remove parts after printing, a good twist and most everything pops right off. I'm not sure, but it seems help parts from springing up at the edges while they cool also.
Anyway, that's my experience, anyone else found some good tape?
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Out of curiousity, it the steps per E value recorded in the GCODE?
So if I load a .GCODE file sliced with Cura, would it print exactly the same as if I printed it over USB?
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Hi Guys,
I was printing at 60mm/sec and 215C.
I dropped the temp a little and remeasured the filament diameter, all better now.
Thanks all.
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I've just done my first print with some blue filament and I'm trying to fine tune the temperature.
The print looks great externally, but I noticed while it printed that the the infill was "droopy" while being laid down. I've got no blobbing and it doesn't seem like there is any overextrusion.
I'm using Cura with a 25% infill.
Do you think this is a symptom of too high a temp, or maybe just a characteristic of the filament?
Cheers all!
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Anyone happen to know what the correct fan header voltage is?
I'm assuming that the electronics fan runs on 12VDC, can anyone confirm this?
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Ok, after a little testing, the power supply is putting out 19.52V.
The fan header is putting out 11.84V, so it looks like my fan has died.
Anyone have a good source for a replacement?
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Hi all,
Just came across a strange problem.
I added some belt tensioners to my x-axis belts, loosening and retightening the pulleys to make sure everything is perpendicular.
Now when I turn on the machine, the electronics cooling fan doesn't run at all, and the x-axis stepper buzzes a couple of times then the whole thing is silent.
My ulticontroller is still working ok through all of this and the blue LED on the thermocouple lights up, but there is no cooling fan so I don't want to risk running it.
Going to test the fan header to see if there is voltage there, and run the fan off a supply to check it.
What else should I check?
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Just wondering what kind of ongoing regime for maintenance everyone is using?
I've been checking belt tension, making sure there is enough grease on the rods and that none of the screws have worked loose etc.
Would anyone like to share their routine for keeping things running smoothly?
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Here is my first successful 90+ minute print, here is hoping it's not my last!
It's a copy of
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25357
, printed using Cura, 1.2mm wall and base thickness, PLA, 45mm/sec @210C.
This machine sure gives great results when the bowden tube stays put!
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Just wanted to add that I ordered my kit with an ulticontroller, so looking forward to you guys getting them too so we can compare notes.
It's a really neat bit of kit.
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If you are getting the plug issue then her's what you need to do:
Take apart the hot end and stick the bowden tube down through the white plastic clip as normal, but make it stick out about 5mm farther than it says. Then put the blue horseshoe part on the white clip and re-attach the hot end. When tightening down the four long screws on the aluminum plate you should reach a solid end point with the end of the PEEK part about 5mm from the wood. The aluminum part is NOT FLUSH in this assembly, it sits about 5mm away from the wood. Get your screws pretty tight but make sure the aluminum part is roughly parallel to the wood.
Now, extrude. The extruder may jam again and form a plug. This is normal. What is happening is the force of extrusion is pushing the bowden tube up, but that is causing the white plastic clip to dig in to the PFA tubing, making a tighter grip. Take apart the hot end one last time, but DON'T disconnect the bowden tube or loosen it in any way. Take out the plug of PLA and reassemble the hot end again and make sure to get those four long screws TIGHT, but keep the aluminum part parallel to the wood. The PEEK part should now sit closer to the wood by a few mm.
After I did that I didn't get any more plugs, and I didn't ahve to cut off the end of my bowden tube or shorten it or anything.
Apologies for hijacking the thread and the double post.
Just wanted to thank destroyer2012 for this advice, after many attempts this seems to have fixed the problem for me. Just got through my first 90 minute print with nice consistent extrusion.
Best I can tell the issue is that the metal teeth on the white fitting need to be made to bite into the PFA bowden tube, the method above works great. To reiterate destroyer2012s post, as long as you have some pre-compression in the bowden tube between the PEEK and the white fitting with the blue clip, this holds the bowden tube in really snugly and prevents the tube from popping or sliding out.
I hope this helps others in the same situation.
Thanks again,
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I'm having a similar issue with mine. Support sent me out a replacement bowden tube after the one that came with the kit was too tight to take filament.
Since that, there have been plugs on 3 occasions and get the same sparse prints, see here: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1036
Yesterday I took the hotend apart and replaced it with the spare one I ordered with my kit, I trimmed the bowden tube a little and made sure that it was all the way into the PEEK and I'm now hopeful that this has remedied the problem once and for all.
Best of luck getting it sorted out.
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try http://bilbycnc.com.au/DisplayCat.asp?CatID=9&SubCatID=100 in Aus - haven't bought filament from them
or http://ultimachine.com/catalog/print-materials/pla/pla-3mm (freight works out OK if you buy the right amount of reels) - quality seems good
both companies send their orders off very quick.
I've just received my first PLA from Bilby, service is great, but can't speak for the quality of the filament yet.
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Mine arrived about 3 weeks ago, and needed the X-axis limit switches changed. Cura has a really nifty check routine that can help you sort this out.
Otherwise, check out the videos in this post: viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1036#p6083
They are a bit bandwidth heavy, but really helped me with setting things up correctly / filled in the blanks.
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Hi all,
I followed the videos and setup my extruder drive accordingly. Thanks for those videos, they are a great help.
I also took the bowden tube out of the PEEK and sure enough there was a big mass of PLA a couple of mm thick in between the PFA tube and the brass tube which was stopping the filament going forward or back. I cleaned it all out while it was hot and made sure that when I reassembled it that the bowden tube was hard up against the brass tube.
It's working better, however there is still sections in a print where the extruder seems to slow down, see below:
This print is
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7519
printed with Cura at 207C using ultimaking black PLA. Speed is set at 70mm / sec.
I'm not really sure what to look at next to get an even extrusion without having to watch for it getting sparse all the time?
As always any advice is appreciated.
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Is your bowden tube is one of the newer, wider ID PFA tubes?
I'm having similar issues, and I wonder if it's to do with having the filament a little loose in the bowden tube. My kit came with one of the defective tubes and this replacement is pretty loose fitting.
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I tried to change it, but the adjustment it allows is only fine around about 99 E steps/ mm. I had an extruder jam, but I don't know if it is related.
I will revert to failsafe settings and start again.
If we don't change that value, where is the correct place in the menu to calibrate the extruder feed rate?
Is there anywhere that anyone knows of that actually explains what the things in the menu mean?
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Thanks, that worked great!
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Cheers Hitesh,
Excellent, I'll check those vids out. Nice to know what is a "normal" setting.
I've got an IR thermometer around here somewhere, if I find it I'll check out the block temp and see if I'm in the same boat and need to go up in temp.
The frustrating thing is that it is so intermittent, I got some super great, fine detail prints running at 25mm / sec and 200C, then the next print is larger and the nozzle isn't extruding enough filament and the print gets super sparse.
Anyway, your advice is appreciated.
CT.
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Hi all,
I've been getting this same recurring problem, the last few prints start out fine but a little way in the nozzle almost stops and the filament gets wispy.
Here is an example of what I mean:
I printed this with Cura, 100% fill density and slowed the print speed down to 40 mm/s. Using ultimaker black PLA @210C.
The model being printed is:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15721
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I'm not sure if I'm maybe printing too fast, or if I might be getting a jam in the PEEK?
Any suggestions?
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Great, I was thrown by the fact that the ulticontrollers default setting is 248, and Cura gave 848. I thought I'd need a conversion.
Thanks Daid.
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I'm trying to add duplicate .stl to my print area. I'm trying printing 4x Owens belt tensioners (
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12513
).
Is this something I can do inside Cura, or am I better off creating a new .stl with multiple copies then slicing this with Cura?
If modifying the .stl is best, what software would I be best off using?
Thanks again,
CT.
grease, oil, or none?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I found a local supplier for the Magnalube-G that comes with the ultimaker.
It does tend to build up a bit, but wiping it away and adding fresh grease has been smooth sailing.