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mr_clark

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  1. The solution I ended up using is pretty simple and works well. Before I just used a cheap Chinese chassis psu dialled down to 20v which fed the UM electronics and a relay driven heated bed. The problem with this approach is the bed power is reduced if you are using a 24v designed hot plate or other heated bed element (not really an issue for me as I was using power resistors on a 8mm alu plate). My Chinese PSU died a rather pathetic death so I decided to get something a little better: http://www.simplypowersupply.com/DIN-Rail-Power-Supply/LP1300D-24M-24Vdc-125A-300W-DIN-Rail-Power-Supply.aspx A Reign Power SMPS - Still Chinese but a hell of a lot higher quality - I will print a DIN rail and stick it on the back of the UM. It does run a bit warm so may be worth putting a fan on it. I am running at about 285watt peak. It has not cut out or failed yet in a few days worth of printing and seems very robust. Very compact too, I couldn't believe how weighty and compact it felt compared to the cheap chassis PSU I was using before. It can be dialled back to 20v or up past 24v. I keep mine at 24v. So cables are run from this via 13A mains cable to the UM main board, soldered to the plug location. Another set of +/- lines from the PSU are taken to this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DEOK-Adjustable-Regulator-Experimental-Converter/dp/B00GX3YWNE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1403808293&sr=8-4&keywords=dc+dc+converter Similar items on Ebay. Pretty good and allows you to dial in your voltage requirement easily. You run the output from this to the spare +/- lines for the fans on the UM driver board. There should be a few spare +/- lines here. Once you have done this you can cut the legs off the 7812 regulator that sits close to that location. This is the linear reg that will crap out at 20+volts without cooling. It's wasteful and the digital regulator is a much more efficient solution, you can draw 2A+ from this new regulator so a plethora of higher power 12v fans could be added if you so wish... Make sure you have it dialled low before you plug it in, get it set to 12v before you go ahead and install. Once you have done all of this, you can run a new set of lines from the spare outputs on the PSU to your heated bed, using the driver board mosfet to switch a relay or use an SSR. Works very well and is a more efficient solution. Good luck. Sorry I don't have a schematic to show you. It does get very busy cable wise and sometimes I wish there was a ribbon solution on the underside of the UM, as with all the cables running around past high power lines, interference is a big problem. I have noticed that with the PSU close to the UM unit, when the heated bed switches on and off there is and immediate impact on the temperature reported from the hot end. I believe this is down to interference as opposed to power deficit due to the fact that there is no drop in voltage across the electronics and current is within spec. I might try winding the cables to see if any flux can be reduced as there is certainly an impact on the very sensitive thermocouple amp.
  2. I got mine a few days before Xmas and its now up and running and having the fun and games of the extruder issues... got some good prints out of it so far though!
  3. I feel the pain, I ordered mine at the end of October, order number 749, in the hope that i would have something to play with over xmas... Its not shipped yet, so it doesn't look hopeful that I will have it before the new year... Ah well... Looks like I will have to socialise with the family then!
  4. Thanks for the reply. It does seem like a hell of a long time, is that with the python libraries update that people mention? Looks like a netfabb licence is needed afterall, pretty expensive!
  5. Hi There, ok, so I am awaiting my order to come, was ordered 4 weeks ago now, so I'm hoping I get an update / package soon! Anyways, I'm sure this question has been asked many a time, but I still cannot see any definitive answer, though I understand its quite subjective... As a newbie, after assembling the device, how much of a headache will it be to get Skienforge to give me these lovely prints I see floating around the net? I see the Netfabb ones often and it is clear they are fantastic looking, and I believe Netfabb is faster at the slicing too? by what factor I don't know, if its a case of 10mins for an average print vs 6.5 for netfabb, then I don't know if the 150 euro price would be worth it, if however the quality is multitudes better and the speed is faster by a factor of 10, then its a different story. What are peoples views on this? I wonder what proportion are using netfabb vs those using Skienforge? Anyway, cheers.
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