tom

Yay for progress!

Welp its that time again, its been a couple of weeks and I'm going to be "that guy" and ask how its going? I'm definitely still interested and I'm sure others are as well. As always, thanks to those who do this!

I second this, I'd be more than happy to help any way I can.

This is why I watch this thread haha. Just waiting for the next better thing while I keep calibrating etc... I'd contribute if I could, but unfortunately besides simple web languages I don't know much when it comes to programming.

Thanks for the updates guys. I look forward to hearing more.

Any update on this slicer?

Not to bring a thread back from the dead but my question applies to this. I have the 1.5.4 electronics. I am adding a headed bed to my Ultimaker this weekend and although I don't have an Ulticontroller yet its planned for the near future (birthday coming up . So the question is can I go ahead and install the patch cable while I have the electronics apart and working on them. Will it be ok to use the usb connection even after applying this patch cable? I'd hate to fry something just because I didn't take the time to ask. [edit] I forgot to ask. In the instructions provided in the wiki it states "Virtually any wire that can fit 'through-hole' can be used". Any clarification on this. I realize it says any, but I always feel better with some potential wire gauges to look at. Thanks, Tom

I've uploaded the stls I used to allow the groovemount to fit. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18983 I'm not to great at providing technical instructions so I understand if it needs clarification.

I'll try and get my solution using the groovemount up on thingiverse tomorrow. If you are still getting the plug it should help. I'll post back in this topic when the file and instructions are uploaded.

As far as I can tell, yes you would need two licenses to have the program on two different computers. However I should have updated this and let everyone know that when I contacted Netfabb they were quick to respond and reset everything. I would assume the same would be true for a reformat/re-installation.

Marlin is definately the firmware to go with. Its far superior in my opinion, and I print 99% of my items with netfabb generated code.

My issue was solved by accident. I had broken my peek while taking apart the hot end to clean everything. I ended up purchasing this http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts and making it fit. Since then I haven't had any issues. I even went so far as to make stls of the peices I used so that if others want to try it they won't have to do quite so much sanding.

The filiment drives I am referring to are these: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=277 viewtopic.php?f=6&t=371 It's hard to tell, is the bulging end the side that would have been on the hot end of the printer? Your issues look very similar to my own.

Hey baphi, I feel your pain. I think the test Owen has you doing is your best option at this point. It seems likely that printing at 245c could cause issues if you aren't printing fairly fast as the heat transfers up the plastic. If you are still having issues after this last test, the only other things I can think of that you might try would be to print either geohagens or Scott's alternate filiment drives. Or if it is an issue with the hot end you could try my fix. I'm still testing it but things have been going much smoother. I'd be happy to fill you in on how I made it work since I haven't posted all of the results yet.

This thread has some useful information on available software etc...viewtopic.php?f=11&t=79

I went to my local rc car hobby shop and they were all out of silicone oil. Once I explained what it was for they suggested gun oil as an alternate solution. It's been working well for me with the benefit of it being fairly cheap and easily found at a wide variety of stores here in Tennessee.

I'm comfortable saying it was the hot end giving me issues. Since I put together the new pieces everything seems to be working pretty well and I haven't made any changes to the filament drive. I've moved discussion over to the mods and hacks forum: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=455

As I mentioned in my other topic about extruder issues I had sheered my brass pipe off inside my peek. I was unable to remove it and ended up having to find a replacement. I decided to go with this http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts and the 36mm brass pipe from makergear as well. Well, it took some thinking and some sanding but I got the piece in and it seems to be working really well so far. I haven't had time to test extensively yet, but it is promising. I'll update and post results and the process a little later on, hopefully I'll have refined it some by then and it won't look quite so slapped together!

I ended up ordering a couple of things from makergear. If I get it all working I'll post up my process in the mods and hacks forum.

Definitely not that much of a hit here in the states. The flat rate boxes help keep costs down and Ultimachine uses them, and subtract the brokerage fee. Ultimachine is about close enough for me to drive to from here. I didn't realize shipping across borders would add that much.

Not exactly sure what it is. Not scratches though. After you mentioned it I ran my finger across it and it wiped away. *update* I managed to get the tube out of the alu block. But its not budging from the peek. Guess I'm gonna have to buy another. I found the peek in the ultimaker shop but its 14 euros with a 58 euro shipping cost, are there any alternatives to this? This is getting discouraging.

I decided it could be on the hot end. Heated everything up to about 200, then went to take it apart. I barely put any pressure and this is what I was greeted with.... No more brass tube for Tom. :(

Is this working with the current erik zalm marlin branch or do you still need alx's branch of marlin?

I was still running into a fair amount of issues printing at 232C. However, I think I've found the culprit. I took the 1kg spool off the back and unwound some of it so the ultimaker wouldn't have to tug. No grinding since. Now to play with the temperatures again. I'm also printing out Scotty's ultistruder to see if it can handle pulling the filament off of the spool so I don't have to go unwind some more every now and then. I'll post again when I get further results.

As the topic suggests this may be a dumb idea. I'm not much of an engineer of any sort. One of the main issues with the ultimaker hot end that people keep bringing up is the heat transfer up the hot end resulting in the pla plug. Would something like a thermoelectric cooler be feasible or helpful? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_cooling I know in computer cooling the downside is that the hot side gets hot obviously, which isn't very efficient. But for our purposes could the cool side help keep it cool further up the barrel while the hot side adds heat further down? Just a thought....