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Everything posted by tom

  1. I'm sure for everyone that at least some of the reasoning behind purchasing/building a 3d printer such as the Ultimaker stemmed from the thought "Wow.....THAT'S AWESOME". But what else steered your way? For me personally its the idea of printing some of my own 3d models into a tangible form. I think it's going to be satisfying in a whole different and exciting way. So what was it for you?
  2. Welp its that time again, its been a couple of weeks and I'm going to be "that guy" and ask how its going? I'm definitely still interested and I'm sure others are as well. As always, thanks to those who do this!
  3. I second this, I'd be more than happy to help any way I can.
  4. This is why I watch this thread haha. Just waiting for the next better thing while I keep calibrating etc... I'd contribute if I could, but unfortunately besides simple web languages I don't know much when it comes to programming.
  5. Thanks for the updates guys. I look forward to hearing more.
  6. Any update on this slicer?
  7. Not to bring a thread back from the dead but my question applies to this. I have the 1.5.4 electronics. I am adding a headed bed to my Ultimaker this weekend and although I don't have an Ulticontroller yet its planned for the near future (birthday coming up . So the question is can I go ahead and install the patch cable while I have the electronics apart and working on them. Will it be ok to use the usb connection even after applying this patch cable? I'd hate to fry something just because I didn't take the time to ask. [edit] I forgot to ask. In the instructions provided in the wiki it states "Virtually any wire that can fit 'through-hole' can be used". Any clarification on this. I realize it says any, but I always feel better with some potential wire gauges to look at. Thanks, Tom
  8. So I started a print this morning. I left for a moment as everything seemed to be working as expected. When I came back 2-3 layers in I found the print head must have snagged my tape and managed to cut out a perfect little square where the base of the print was. While this was interesting since there was a little ball of crumpled tape off to the side it left me with an issue. I let the print finish, unfortunately the bottom couple of layers snapped off when I went to remove it. So long story short, I had read about how well Pla sticks to acrylic but holy crap. Heh that stuff doesn't want to come off no matter how much I scrape. Ive managed to get it down to the last layer or two with a majority of those gone as well but now my efforts seem futile. Any suggestions? Could I just blowtorch it off thereby removing the scuff marks I made with my scraper as well? As always thanks in advance for your help guys!
  9. I've hammered out most of my issues over the last few weeks but only one seems persistent. I am in a constant struggle with my extruder filament driver. The bolt is in constant need of cleaning it seems. Most of the issues showed up when I switched to the Natural PLA from Ultimachine. I'm not sure if its softer than what Ultimaker sent with my printer or what but I absolutely can not keep a steady stream of the stuff. I've gone through many iterations of cleaning the bolt, tightening or loosening the filament pressure mechanism. Past that I'm really not sure what else to do. I raised my temps considerably which helped the most. Going from printing at 190 to 205 C. Even with this change however the extrusion is just not reliable. After cleaning the bolt I can normally get a good 20 mins or so of it working perfectly, however when I return to the machine later I find the print not any further along and the printhead happily skimming around an mm or two above the print. It doesn't appear to be a clogging issue because in general if I just push the filament through by hand it clears things up and will work again if I precede to clean the bolt. And as I mentioned before I've tried this at a very large variety of pressures and the problem just persists. Additionally it appears as if the hotend temperatures are fairly consistent (just basing that off of the force required to push the filament by hand. I haven't taken any accurate temperature readings yet.) I'm hoping to get this figured out as it seems to be my last major hurdle in consistent print quality. Any thoughts/ideas? As always, Thank in advance!
  10. tom


    The spam is getting a little bit silly.
  11. My name is Tom, nice to meet you forum. I've spent a lot of my free time the last couple of months researching 3d printing technologies and the various machines which use them. I had initially ruled out most of the hobbyist kits do to the quality of prints I was finding. Lucky for me I stumbled onto Dave Durant's blog and the Ultimaker. More research ensued. Long story short, here I am four days after placing my order and it seems that glorious day 4-6 weeks from now is never going to get here.
  12. tom

    Extruder issues

    I've uploaded the stls I used to allow the groovemount to fit. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18983 I'm not to great at providing technical instructions so I understand if it needs clarification.
  13. tom

    Extruder issues

    I'll try and get my solution using the groovemount up on thingiverse tomorrow. If you are still getting the plug it should help. I'll post back in this topic when the file and instructions are uploaded.
  14. This weekend I downloaded the Netfabb engine for Ultimaker to give it a whirl. I like the program and decided to purchase a license. Unfortunately when i received my voucher and new serial number I forgot to change the serial number of the demo version before entering the voucher code. To which I received this response via automated email: "Serial number N38U080X was used for activation too often. Activating demo version instead." Thinking this was an easy fix I changed the serial number and re-entered the voucher. The response was different, but not in the way I hoped: "Voucher code *********** was previously used. Activating demo version instead." I sent an email to both the Ultimaker team and the Netfabb support email yesterday morning (I'm in the US, Eastern time zone). Surely this is something that could be resolved easily. Am I missing something that I could be doing on my end? I would think there is something in place for if one wishes to migrate their software to another computer? Any help is appreciated as always.
  15. tom

    So, I made an oops....

    As far as I can tell, yes you would need two licenses to have the program on two different computers. However I should have updated this and let everyone know that when I contacted Netfabb they were quick to respond and reset everything. I would assume the same would be true for a reformat/re-installation.
  16. tom

    Extruder issues

    Marlin is definately the firmware to go with. Its far superior in my opinion, and I print 99% of my items with netfabb generated code.
  17. tom

    Extruder issues

    My issue was solved by accident. I had broken my peek while taking apart the hot end to clean everything. I ended up purchasing this http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts and making it fit. Since then I haven't had any issues. I even went so far as to make stls of the peices I used so that if others want to try it they won't have to do quite so much sanding.
  18. tom

    Extruder issues

    The filiment drives I am referring to are these: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=277 viewtopic.php?f=6&t=371 It's hard to tell, is the bulging end the side that would have been on the hot end of the printer? Your issues look very similar to my own.
  19. tom

    Extruder issues

    Hey baphi, I feel your pain. I think the test Owen has you doing is your best option at this point. It seems likely that printing at 245c could cause issues if you aren't printing fairly fast as the heat transfers up the plastic. If you are still having issues after this last test, the only other things I can think of that you might try would be to print either geohagens or Scott's alternate filiment drives. Or if it is an issue with the hot end you could try my fix. I'm still testing it but things have been going much smoother. I'd be happy to fill you in on how I made it work since I haven't posted all of the results yet.
  20. This thread has some useful information on available software etc...viewtopic.php?f=11&t=79
  21. tom


    I went to my local rc car hobby shop and they were all out of silicone oil. Once I explained what it was for they suggested gun oil as an alternate solution. It's been working well for me with the benefit of it being fairly cheap and easily found at a wide variety of stores here in Tennessee.
  22. tom

    Extruder issues

    I'm comfortable saying it was the hot end giving me issues. Since I put together the new pieces everything seems to be working pretty well and I haven't made any changes to the filament drive. I've moved discussion over to the mods and hacks forum: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=455
  23. As I mentioned in my other topic about extruder issues I had sheered my brass pipe off inside my peek. I was unable to remove it and ended up having to find a replacement. I decided to go with this http://www.makergear.com/products/groovemounts and the 36mm brass pipe from makergear as well. Well, it took some thinking and some sanding but I got the piece in and it seems to be working really well so far. I haven't had time to test extensively yet, but it is promising. I'll update and post results and the process a little later on, hopefully I'll have refined it some by then and it won't look quite so slapped together!
  24. tom

    Extruder issues

    I ended up ordering a couple of things from makergear. If I get it all working I'll post up my process in the mods and hacks forum.

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