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Hi guys. i maybe saw a little flaw in Cura there. otherwise perfect software. Love it. i am on MacOs Catalina newest and have Cura 4.7.1 - The text on the tab "Monitor" has quite a different font for its "I" compared to the rest of the letters. it has serifs the rest not.

Hi guys I have some problems i hope to get solved here. On my Mac the NEW Cura 15.06.3 doesnt work... (the old one runs like a charm) I already wrote about, but got not a single answer. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17031-cant-print-with-cura-150603-on-my-ultimaker2 i am using a iMac (mid 2010) 2.93 GHz Intel Core i7 i cant get a working Gcode out of Cura. The layer view is not working most of the time. I cant switch view modes. If i manage to get layers displayed then it looks like this: additionially i miss the "cut-off-bottom" function. or didnt find where to add it in the extra settings i used that very often to make symetric halves of a thing without another extra software.

hm. seems like i am the only one who has such severe problems using the newest cura.

hi guys this morning i first tried the new cura 15.06.03... im on a Mac with newest OS. So, firmware upped and sliced a simple and proofed working testmodel (interlocked tubes) First i noticed i still cant have the layers displayed (same problem as in 15.06.01/02). thers a button for, but it just hides the 3d model. no layer to see there. i can scroll though invisible layers. So saved the gcode and opened with a gcode viewer and with the old cura to see if thers something there... " /> Soo.. quite surprised, i put file on SD and started the printer anyway to see if only the ultifirmware actually could read the new gcode the right way... well it just did what the gcode viewer showed me. made some weird movements. am i doing something wrong?? i realy wonder why i cant see the freshly sliced layers so i downgraded and am back up printing with the old CURA. but i hope there will be some updates that hopefully fix my problem soon.

im in on this. i like.

yea so true, i guess they found the CAD files nice 3d rendering. but they forgot the bowden and cables.

I found this picture on 3Ders.org i have to say it looks exactly like an ultimaker but says dentca on its front. Is this a new silver eddition? two heads on one axis? makes me ask questions.. or is this just photoshoped advertisement pic. tell me. http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150810-dentca-receives-fda-clearance-for-the-first-3d-printable-denture-base-material.html http://www.dentca.com/products.asp

I wanted to print a hollow object. however i cant get cura to not fill my object. i have set the infill parameter to 0% for this. if thats not the way we do it now, please tell me. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/85

Hm interesting. i wonder what brands of PLA you got. I definitely want to see this myself. I know that PLA (atleast mine is) a non-crystaline plastic and should be quite immune to this kind of solvent. In my case with all my PLA brands theres absolutely no benefit from acetone. I had a PLA part in a jar of acetone for several days... sometime it even got worse.. my parts get more brittle and have less interlayer adhesion. After the acetone evaporated.. Furthermore will leave a ugly white myst on the surface. With ABS on the other hand i can have my prints waterproofed, solidified and glossy by just spraying a little acetone. The effects on the surface quite strong.. small features may distort and a little loss of detail is always there. Gloss is what we want in some cases and i still can easily spray it with matte coat if needed. @ Reibuehl I would dip it and place it on Backing paper afterwards. try to have your slurry quite fluid and not honey-like.

Acetone has no useful effect on PLA prints guys... you can coat a PLA print with ABS slurry though.

Hi guys, Maybe some already know this.. i recently found this and was surprised: - Acetone in Spaycans i gave it a test for post processing ABS prints and it works good. Not the healthiest solution btw.. (well ventilated area) i go for 3 coats with complete drying in-between and some grinding.

need some Help.. i know i am dumb when it comes to programming stuff. but i just couldnt figure out how to install that desired manual slicing version. ive been waiting for soo long and now i cant test it. First github.. i cant download from there. its a very confusing page. lucky-me, some posts later i find a download.. but i just get this .py file now what do i have to do with it? i hoped it would be a standalone cura app

i realised this within this post.. thx again. Forgive me my ignorance but.. i have absolutely no idea how to make use of that github link. it lacks a download button Its waay beond my skills to make my own software... It gives me headache. i cant even follow the simplest tutorial on how to "compile" this random looking text into a working software on my mac. If someone could do this for me i would be very thankful.

please be nice to each other.. its a old discussion.. and also a fierce thorn in my eye since auto-slicing was born. check the forum search function. I gave up using cura long ago. precisely after i had to read daids post where he's first saying that he won't change this ever... I always liked cura and still occasionally use it for small items like 3-5 qcm. But for me its unusable for big and complex things Everytime autoslice cuts into my workflow. i can't withstand to curse loud, like captain haddock. ..really annoys my coworkers.. but i can't help it. Lets just hope that we (the stoppers) still grow more and more in numbers. By now, i really hoped the group of unsatisfied Cura users would have grow to a certain level so the developers would have been forced to re-implement that beloved "Stop" button already. ( cura once had a slice button.. ) sadly that just didn't happen yet. :(

Hi guys have to report another UM2 blocked. i couldnt find the source of my very severe underextrusion problem.. until i disassembled everything.. Im not shure but i think i already had a glass-infused spacer.. I noticed a relatively strong notch inside my Teflon spacer. On its exit-side to the nozzle, it has got a quite strong ridge all around. the teflon is still completely white. no burned plastic residue anywhere. Filament "can" still go though the spacer but also most of the times blocks up instantly. To me it looks like, the spacer is made from too soft material.. i think could crush it by hand. i feel like PLA is harder than that spacer = can damage it. since i cannot photograph my spacer good enough, a drawing should help a bit: i order some replacements.. but i already know it wont last. I hope someone comes up with a better solution for this.

I need some Help! To my big surprise and very sadly, Cura is not able to save to .stl anymore. Actually there should be multible options to choose from: .obj, .stl, amf, i accidentally overwrited a original .stl file with a .amf... now i cannot open the file again.. only in Cura witch doesnt help in this case. I need a way to convert .amf files back to much more compatible stl... none of my apps can read .amf files. Meshlab crashed always when i try to open it... changing the ending manually to .stl produces a unreadable file. thx in advance.

interesting. we should make some experiments with a diy solution of this sandwiched glassfiber plate idea. there are a lot of glassfiber wallpapers with interesting surface properties and textures. also this could come in pretty cheap if we find a good solution to laminate them to a flexible but super flat base material. (i remember good old wood glue as good sticking amplifier) of course i think of having multiple plates to swap.

Some update Pics arrive... I finished the build while the UM was running.. like a open-heart procedure. got a temp reader on there. Next is to get a nicer tank... and removing old fans that tangle around here and there. after 3h of Printing i get stable 33.5°C on my tank. no extra radiator yet.. btw that little temp reader is not accurate by +- 2° C. i meashure with a gun-type meter too. and the future coolant

1+ I have some similar problems with highres models. Since the upgrade to 14.03 think the gcode calculation of round shapes has been changed. Its regular and not that strongly visible on my machine.. compared to Wallans pics. it looks a bit like a fine layer of dragonscales. Compared to 14.01 i notice a quite strong noise change when printing said round shapes. Its slower, much louder and seems to studder a bit. at least i think i remember it printing faster there.. This happens only when i print mega-highres models... which i do alot.

thx guys. because i can, nails it. i want the machine to stand out more in my crazy lab. besides this, my waterpump is completely silent. so now i can enjoy the pure song of my steppers. (gonna make my next UM from Tonewood... ) watercooling also eliminated any unwanted wind-chill effects coming from my addtional fans on the steppers. this always affected my ABS prints. heres my testsetup. right now i am measuring the tube lenghts and test my experimental Tank/passive radiator/bubbler/pump glass jar.. no overpressure vent yet.. gonna use unbreakable laboratory bottles later. to make LEDs light up just by waste temperature is great.. in future i might also want to try to use the radiator device as hot build plate substitute.. have to see what temps i can get out of it.. only, i am a bit worried about adding weight to the fly head.. fluids tend to add a lot of wobble... maybe i leave the second fan on there

Hi guys, wanted to share you my latest Ultimaker hack challenge. i intend to silence my additional steppercoolingsystem by changing from fans to watercooling. they fit snugly over the cooling pads and rest against the back of the steppermotors. those cooling pieces are from aliexpress.com.. 5pcs cost me about 15$ im still researching how i could cool the stepper drivers and the hot-ends cold side with the same system.. going to use a UV glow cooling agent in transparent tubes... not yet shure which colour though. im happy to have some peltier Thermoelectric modules to bring down the water temp in the radiator.. i want them to be switchable to eighter produce power and light up some LEDs or actively cooling down my fluid. here your go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:282996

Heiss stehen lassen ist nie gut.. wir sollten mal ne timer implementation dafür bei daid vorschlagen. schätze das müsste direkt in die Firmware. Es ist für ein dichtes pfropfen-freies material wechseln essentiell, dass der Bowden supergenau 90° geschnitten ist. Ausserdem wenn man den Bowden zu stark an das Weisse teflon anpresst.. (passiert leicht beim fixieren oben am flyhead und dem anziehen der 4 flyheadschrauben) kann er sich leicht biegen im Flyhead-innern was zur folge hat das er nicht "eben" aufsetzt im teflonteil. Hierzu hab ich mir schonmal überlegt ob ich da nicht ein metallröhrchen drüberschieben kan um das zu verhindern. hab ich aber noch nicht getestet.. Ich hab nach dem aufbohren meiner ganzen Düsen teile auf 3.2mm kaum mehr probleme gehabt. Nur, beim von Nylon auf PLA zurückwechseln ist etwas Zeitintensiver.. ich muss fast immer die düse putzen. Dafür hab ich auch n tipp: es gibt messing drahtbürsten mit 0.3-0.4mm drähten dran. Die eignen sich hervorragend um die düse schonend durchzustechen.

Same here. the stringing is like supertough spiderwebs in your grandmas attic. could be used to make a whole-printed Nylon filtersystem. i tried to get rid of them by a bunsenburner.. not a nice idea on a white part btw... i managed to minimize the stringing by cleaning the nozzle and giving it a ligh polish on the tip from time to time.

Support made with B9creator app. (just ignore the size warning when using big models) B9creator gives multiple adjustable features for every single collumn. Its very convenient to add an remove collums. you can change thicknesses and orientation after placement. only disadvantage i see is: There are no branching-style columns possible. Just single ones. Here you go Lennart:

some updates.. works suprisingly good. a indestructable fanguard(customisable thingiverse) with addional superfine raft-mesh.