Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

codemaven

Dormant
  • Content Count

    222
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. I've wondered this as well myself, but have never bothered to figure it out other Mathematically. The NetFabb defaults for the Ultimaker use a layer hight of 0.08 for the 'Ultra' quality and multiples thereof for lower resolution prints... And I've played around with this quite a bit trying all sorts of odd and even layer heights but I have always found the best results to be divisible by 0.08 on my machine. I get far better results at 0.08 than I do at 0.06, and similarly I get nicer results at 0.160 than I do at 0.1. Regards, Troy.
  2. Hi Gijs, Can you tell us how this compares (flexibility, toughness, shearing strength, impact resistance, etc) to ABS? Also to Taulman 618 (Nylon). How is the warping and shrinkage on this material? Does it improve with a heated bed? also what is the adhesion to blue tape like? I've been printing quite a bit in the 618 lately and it's a great material but the warping is very difficult to manage. Thanks, Troy
  3. I have a few meters of synchromesh cable that I bought to use on a CoreXY platform... if I ever get around to building it. I can't comment on how it works yet, but the stuff feels more sturdy than belts and I think it will work great. Cheers, Troy.
  4. That is true. I noticed absolutely no warping with my wood prints. I usually always have some small amount of warping with PLA, but this stuff stayed perfectly flat and stuck well. PeggyB: That second picture looks great! It's like it's carved right out of wood. I found the lead of a 1/8W resistor was the perfect size to fit in the nozzle to clear it. Cheers, Troy.
  5. Well, my main issue was that I had to print faster. It needs more experimentation to determine the actual parameters, but it appears that it melts as low as 170 degrees on my extruder, and works fine as high as 245. However the binder in it is somewhat oily and if you let it sit in the hot-zone too long it appears to evaporate away, forming a hard lump of wood that will not extrude. I've found that the extruder must continue to run while it's hot. If you leave it for more than about 30 seconds without moving some filament through the extruder then the nozzle will plug. If you leave it long en
  6. I got my wooden Yoda to print last night... It's got a few defects, but all-in-all it's a 3d printed wooden Yoda... Very cool. This wooden filament is a little more difficult to work with than regular PLA, but it's not bad once you get the hang of it. Now to come up with some real things to print in it. More pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/102544598518008997408/3dPrints#5800189893445346018 Cheers, Troy.
  7. Here's my first successful print with Wooden Filament. I had some serious jamming issues that required me taking the nozzle off and cleaning it thuroughly. It seems that the wooden filament can char into clumps that are impossible to extrude if the temperature is too high, or if it sits in the hotzone for too long. The higher the temperature, the darker the extruded wood - however, the slower that you extrude it (or rather the longer that it's exposed to heat) the darker it gets as well. Even at 175, if you leave the heat on in one spot then the wood gets dark and will eventually burn. I had q
  8. I hate to drift off-topic here, but I just wanted to mention that another alternative that I've not seen discussed before is Bricscad. It's expensive, but not nearly as expensive as Solid Works. I've used it for 2d lasercutting and quite like it for that. Havn't tried it for 3d yet, but it looks promising on the surface. I'm just evaluating the trial version right now, but am seriously considering buying the Pro version or trying to contact the company to negotiate a hobbyist license. Cheers, Troy.
×
×
  • Create New...