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  1. thx! I never tried to build the project... sorry ;-)
  2. I'm struggling with the latest NetFabb (4.9) release to create the correct gcode which can then be printed with RepG (35RC1). - In Netfabb I did a reset machine settings - I added the M92 E14 code to the Gcode header (in the Ultimaker specific tab in NetFabb) - I load the gcode into Repg 35RC1 on a different machine, connected to the UM. - When I hit build (after preheating) I get the following error message prior to the print: - I tried to solve it by building and uploading a custom firmware with the build-tool by changing the E-value to 14, see below: - I still get the error message in RepG. What am I doing wrong?
  3. @destroyer2012: this issue appeared with red, white and silver PLA... I can't imagine that thickness tolerances are not right as the filament is supplied by UltiMaker themselves... But who knows... Bottomline: my company purchased the UM to be able to do checks in an earlier stage of the design process, but having this much issues isn't usable.
  4. I've reached the moment to stop putting effort in trying to make the UM work... It takes me too much time (professionally) that's not worth spending. The printer keeps giving the same issues with extruding during a large print. So I'm throwing in the white flag...
  5. Last week I printed one big item without any problems at all. It was really just about hitting the build button in RepG and let the Ulti do the work. Workflow: - STL-file created in SolidWorks - STL loaded in NetFabb (christmas edition) - created gcode within NetFabb (using 210C temp and "standard" profile) - loaded gcode in RepG (026) - preheated the Ulti to 210C and once the temp was reached I hit the build button - after 4 hours of printing a good solid print was made So far the good news... I tried to replicate the exact workflow again with a slightly changed file. The print started just fine but somewhere halfway the printhead stopped extruding. This happened twice. After these two failures I felt it took quitte some force to push the filament (silver PLA in all three cases) through the heated printhead. I decided to disassemble the printhead once again (while still being heated). Strangely I found no excessive PLA material above the PEEK nor in the bowden tube. But it took some really serious force to push the PLA through the end of the bowden tube, so probably there's the problem. Next step was to cut a small piece of the end of the bowden tube and after having done that, the filament could be pushed trough without any excessive force. I reassembled the printhead and started another print job. Result: A flawless good solid print like the first one! I hope this has solved my print issues... Maybe I'll need to install a complete new bowden tube in the future...? So far so good. I'll keep you guys updated if this has really fixed my printing issues!
  6. The strange thing is that there doesn't seem te be a consistant flow through the heater. In other words: sometimes I can easily push the filament through, but a few moments later it feels completely stuck... :( Temperatures don't make much of a difference (tried from 200 - 245 degrees). Rather disappointing, this... **edit** After writing the above, I decided to take the printhead apart and there I found a big melted PLA in the end of the bowden tube. Not good. What can I do to prevent this? As this doesn't seem to be an extruder problem but more a printhead problem...
  7. ***Update*** A week ago I visited the UltiMaker "headquarters" in order to have the issues solved as mentioned above in earlier posts. Martijn was so kind to do some modifications on my Ulti and to diagnose the problem. (thx for that Martijn!) This is what has been changed: - the bowden tube is now fixed on two positions in the printhead (to prevent the tube from moving out of the peek) - the lower part of the printhead was disassembled and checked, cleaned and the reassembled correctly - the PLA spool was organized (could have caused an extrusion block) After these small modifications I was able to do print without problems with the red PLA! But recently I swapped the red PLA for silvergrey PLA and now I'm having exactly the same issues as before... What temps should I be using for silvergrey PLA as compared to red PLA?
  8. Alright! But which Marlin firmware to use... 1. Marlin Experimental build 1 2. Marlin Experimental build 2 3. Marlin Experimental build 3 by Bernhard Kubicek I'm now in the middle of printiing the geohagen parts... Hope all goed well today. :-| **edit** I'm having some other problems as well: 1. after starting a print job in RepG it takes appr. 5 min before the actual print starts 2. when printing starts, the platform is way too far from the nozzle away (3mm at least) which I have to adjust manually each print. What could be the cause of these problems? I'll post these problems in a new subject if needed. **edit2** Uploaded Marlin Experimental 2 en started printing and the problems described above (in **edit**) are gone now
  9. @Tom: I'll first start fixing the problem with the geohagen kit. Hope this will solve the extrusion issue. @owen: the reason for me not to use an experimental firmware, is that I don't slice the files with RepG. I do all the prepwork in NetFabb and then leave the printing to RepG. Or will the Marlin firmware also improve the printing as well? It's worth giving it a shot ;-)
  10. Thx Tom. I have downloaded the redesign of geo hagen and will start printing it tomorrow. also have I contacted Tristan from fabberworld for a quotation to send me the metal parts needed for this redesign. I think this is something on which the ultimaker team should work on to improve their machine... So far, no word from them unfortunately :roll: Will call them tomorrod to address the problem. Thx for the support so far! If there someone with another good suggestion or solution, please add your comments!
  11. So far, the problem still occurred, but now, on 1/3rd of the total process. I examined the the filament and hobbed bolt and will post pictures of them. The bolt was quitte full with PLA residu and the filament has several bolt-marked spots on it. **Update** here are two pictures: What's going wrong here. The print was done with 210 degrees. @Tom: which filament drives are you referring to? Would you be so kind to inform me about the hot end fix?
  12. Sometimes when the plastic starts melting too high up and so it's too soft to push against. I can't think of what else could be causing your problem other than what you've already tried so it's worth a shot. Thanks Owen. I'm now printing the same object with 210 degrees. Hoping it'll finish the job completely. Keep ya posted!
  13. Thanks for your reply, owen. So you're suggesting to print with lower temperatures? That's worth trying! I'll come back to report the results. I'll start with 230°C and the lower as much as possible. Can high temperatures cause the printhead to clog then?
  14. I'm having extrusion problems as described above. Small prints go fine, but when I start a large print, the printhead stops printing plastic halfway. This very anooying, as I can't babysit and don't expect to... I'm printing following the workflow as described below: - prepare an STL file (originally created by solidworks) in NetFabb (the "christmas-edition") on a PC (win7 x64) - export a gcode from NetFabb - load the gcode in ReplicatorG 026 on a different PC (running XP pro x32) connected to the Ultimaker - the Ultimaker is running the FW 5D - the Ultimaker has the red PLA 3mm filament in it - preheat the Ultimaker up to 230°C - once the temperature has been reached, I manually extrude material until a consistant flow comes out - check the gcode in RepG - start the print-job - adjust the z-axis once the print has started to make shure to get a first good layer - leave the machine to do it's job - after printing for 2.5 hours (of 4.5 hours total) I found out the printhead was moving 3mm above the object, without printing plastic. - the hobbed bolt always leave a hole in the filament once this problem has occurred Things I've tried: - clean the hobbed bolt before a large print - put more pressure on filament - clean the printhead and reassemble it - change the length of the protruding bowden tube from 8mm to 9mm - leave a gap between the machined aluminum part and wooden part (together with th step above) - tried higher print temperatures (up to 245°C) - tried printing with another PC running win7 x64 At the moment, I'm losing my patience and I am close to leave the Ultimaker for what it is and start outsourcing 3d-prints again... The Ultimaker was bought with the purpose of using it in our design firm, in order for us to avaluate design in an earlier stage. Who can help with good tips? Any help is greatly appreciated. Bas
  15. I'm having the exact same issue here. Printing in RepG is ok, but I want the option of building supports which is only possible within NetFabb. It's really frustrating to see the correct preview in NetFabb, but when the Print-button is hit, the Extruderhead-fan starts spinning and then nothing happens. I tried reconnecting, but the Ultimaker keeps disconnecting... I've also loaded the netfabb-gcode file in RepG, but RepG does exactly the same. The temperature of the extruder was correct (245 degrees). Material used: PLA. Material style: PLA-Ultimaker. Please help?
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