scottmayson

I have just run some trials with 1.75mm filament in my Ultimaker. Video on Youtube next week. Simply get a meter of PTFE tube and insert it into the bowden tube. Scott

Can someone give a simple answer to how we would account for different nozzle sizes in kisslicer? I have a 0.4, 0.5, 0.6 and 1mm nozzles and using 3 and 1.75mm filament. Cheers Scott

Im offering to host a UM meeting in September at RMIT University City campus for UM users to share their knowlage with the ever growing users. Say 5pm on a Thursday night? Please respond if you are interested. Best Scott

Well it's happened fully assembled and with an Ulticontroller for $1,199.00 USD! http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BlueBot-3D-p ... 978wt_1202 Scott

How can OS X users upgrade?

I'm interested in splitting postage + express aus post. Email - scottdotmaysonatrmitdotedudotau

Hi Everyone, I have now redesigned the Peek component in conjunction with makergear brass tubes and nozzles and have been printing for quite some time with out back pressure, nozzle leaks and bowden tube popping out of the peek component. You will need access to a lathe to machine this :!: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20535 Best Scott

Its been replaced today http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19551

Have a look at my solution http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17747 Uses a Mk2 heatbed reprap

Here is my Mk2 Ultistruder design which uses a Makerbot Mk6 drivegear. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19551 I have been using this for three weeks for 5 hours per day with out failure. It also works best with my modified PEEK component - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20535 at the nozzle end which is made from PTFE at the moment. Best Scott

You can not cut toughened or annealed glass they are secondary processes ie more cost and delay. I just tried it at work as 6mm glass was about $35AUD per meter. I would just use aluminium as its more robust and only expands < 0.5mm. I also had to scale the key ways in the thingiverse AI drawings by 1.15 in Rhino. the final version is on my thingiverse page http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17747

Tom, thats the one! re the bearings look at the web link above. basically they are ID6, OD10 & 3mm width. You can print it in either material. However, you need a heated bed to print ABS successfully.

Hi All, Here is a version of the extruder redesign with OEM parts inc MakerBot Mk6 drive gear. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15749 Cheers Scott

So I have been having continual problems with my printer head leaking back up through the thread and through the heater block. To try and stop this I added high temp plumbers tape This worked for some time however, I notices a crack appear in the print head and then it pealed apart on disassembly :( . The nominal wall thickness of the UM 0.4mm print head where the brass tube bottoms-out is 0.34 mm! Have ordered several 0.4mm print heads, teflon coated MB http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-mk6-nozzle-teflon-coated-0-40mm-width.html 'new heater block required' and MakerGear http://www.makergear.com/products/nozzles. will post images when finished. Also I am re designing the head for drop in/out interchangeable heads that will be one piece design and compression "surface" clamped in a new PEEK component. The Fortus 900c http://www.fortus.com/products/fortus-900mc.aspx uses a similar method. will post images when finished. Thoughts anyone? Scott