mastory

I'm using a laptop w/ xp. Computer is about 6 years young. It'll be a bummer if that precludes using your software package, but I'll be forced to understand. Is there hope? Matt

OK, so I went back to Skeinpypy Alpha3. Now I get a message in the dialogue box "You do not have Tkinter, which is needed for..." and a windows error "pypy has encountered a problem and..." That being said, I just installed Tkinter form here: http://sourceforge.net/projects/visualt ... p/download . I am guessing that is the same problem for me with SkeinforgepypyAlpha3 and alpha4. Tkinter is not recognized for some reason or I have the wrong program or ver. Matt

Having some trouble using the package (Alpha4 for Win). Very likely something simple I am missing. I believe I have all the software installed per the instructions. Here's whats happening I run printrun.bat Printer interface opens. If I click connect and I have manual controls of the machine. Click Skeinpypy and select a *.stl file bottom of window says "slicing" Seems to sit there forever Something similar when I open SF on its own. If I SKienforge a file directly form SF, it never indicates its working progress or completion. Where are the gcodes supposed to be writen? Thanks Matt

As a new user, I have a couple of questions and comments RepG26. I know that beggars can't be choosers, and I understand that writing and revising this software is a labor of love. I appreciate all the efforts that are being spent on behalf of the rest of us users who don't have a clue what you guys do to make this software work. In a word - Thanks. For some reason when I am warming up, trying to prime the print nozzle the control window seems to take forever when I give it a stop command. Typically I have been issuing a temp request for the print head. When the head gets hot enough to extrude, I give a forward extrude command. Depending on the state of the print head it might take a few minutes to get a consistent extrusion. When I do get that, and ask it to stop, it takes like what seems like 5 minutes sometimes to actually stop. All the while burning up filament and making a mess. Maybe I should just go back to the main screen and start my print? Would starting the print interrupt the manual function if its not completed? It might be difficult to keep the tip and print bed clean prior to starting the print if I interrupt the manual forward command. I think maybe a jog forward may work better - sort of like the axis controls. What does the extruder rpm relate to? I can see that when I put in 1000, that it is not 1000rpm as it shows on the screen. I am thinking that the units are mis-labeled. Or maybe its 100rpm. Dunno. Small thing really. When RepG is used to send Gcode that was generated on other software, is RepG just passing the instructions thru or does it alter them in any way? I mean other than the live controls. Thanks again, and I apologize for hijacking the original post. Matt

Thanks, worked great.

I believe I corrupted one of my netfabb material profiles. Is there someplace I can download the profiles that came with my software installation (recent). I believe these are credited to have been developed by Paul Candler and Florian Horsch. Is there a means to reset them to their 'defaults'? Not sure that defaults exist for the profiles... Should I just re-install? I have only just tried (unsuccessfully so far) to use the software. Also, I think I read there is a new release just around the corner. Thanks, Matt

Thanks Owen, I'm not sure what I did, but it is working again. I shut everything down and restarted. Overwrote RepG with another copy. Problem has gone away. Today was first try at printing, I am more than satisfied with the measure of success that I had. I am surprised how well the PLA sticks to the blue tape - too well I think. RepG isn't too hard starting out. The many parameters will be something else to get a handle on. Had some problems with Java locking up on me. Have had bad experiences with it in the past. Tomorrow I will try out Netfab. Matt

Just got my machine up and running. First print was marginally successful. Printed a whistle. All layers didn't bond and it leaned over in the middle. Maybe it was missing dropping steps for some reason.... Kindle of an Salvador Dahli whistle. I don't think those symptoms are relevant to my current issue though... My extruder seems to work fine in RepG manual mode, or if I push the filament by hand. When I try to build, the axes go into motion like they should, but nothing comes out of the extruder... ??? Must be missing something basic. Anyone have some ideas? Thanks Matt

I started assembling my machine last night. Have a question about how the Bowden tube is to fit with the brass tube. The instructions explicitly say the tube should protrude from part 8B by 8mm exactly. I adhered to that, but when I got to bolting the extruder tip to the carriage, there is approximately a 3mm interference between the plastic tube and the hollow brass tube. In other words, there is about a 3mm gap between the aluminum plate and part 8B caused by the interference as mentioned. I have the tip and brass tube screwed together very tight by hand. I am suspecting perhaps a short depth of the tap in the tip or possibly an over length brass tube. Beyond a blanket statement of adjusting the tube to 8mm exactly, what is the theory behind this fit condition? Is it intended to be a compression fit? i.e. is the tube supposed to be compressed 3mm? Some other lesser distance? Without the benefit of further advice, I would re-adjust the 8mm to say 5.3mm and then allow the fit to be slightly compressed when bolted together. This should cause a sufficiently tight connection between the brass and plastic tube without causing the tip to deform and obstruct the filament. I would think that when heated up, the plastic tube will mold itself to fit as long as the interference isn't too great to start with. This given the end is cut square and the brass tube has the right form. I noticed the end of the brass screw isn't particularly square or flat. More so, the shape of the end of the screw seems to the result of the thread run-out and how it relates to the thru bore. Should I square up the end of the screw? Your thoughts? Thanks, Matt

Great news! Just received notification that my Ultimaker has been picked up by DHL. For the record, Order #1158 Ordered Dec 28, 2011 Payment received Jan 10, 2012 Shipped out Feb 9, 2012 Received Feb 13, 2012 That's 6 weeks 2 days from order date, and 4 weeks 2 days from payment being received. Matt

I guess it doesn't help any to post anything until your machine actually ships out. I posted my info prematurely too... Matt

I guess I assumed the order # to be a serial number. I stand corrected, please substitute your order number instead for the the SN# above. For instance, my order number was 100001158 placed on 12-28-11. Of course I haven't received it yet. 6 weeks would be 2-8-12, but I am prepared to wait longer.... Matt

For all of us who are waiting for our machine to ship, I have a suggestion so we can begin to get a rough estimate of the time til ship since there isn't much news to be heard directly from UM. It only takes a little cooperation from those who have recently received or are now receiving their UM. I am simply asking everyone who is waiting for their machine to ship (and any that have already shipped) to simply record their serial number, order date and ship date when it finally happens. With a little cooperation, we can have a pseudo-scientific log to help us anticipate a ship date. So, I am asking recent and prior receivers to post only your order date, SN# and valid ship dates here and little else. Thank you, Matt

I don't have my machine yet, but I do have some experience tramming machine tools (for instance squaring a tool spindle to the work table or vice). I intend to apply that knowledge here. What requires is a dial indicator such as this one: http://www.amazon.com/Sowa-SO-200-718-Dial-Indicator-Range/dp/B002SPQFKE These devices are accurate to .001" (.03mm) or better. The instructions below seem long, but concept is actually simple. If I didn't own a dial indicator gauge I would use feeler gauges and the same basic procedure. 1. It requires is that the indicator be rigidly mounted to the print head with the plunger pointed toward the print bed. It should be easy to design a Thing for this. 2. Move the print bed up to a point where the indicators plunger is depressed somewhat. Lets say to the middle of it's travel. It would be best to lock the Z axis at this height if possible. 3. Slacken or back off the Right Front adjuster screw so it has no influence on the print bed height and leave it loose. This will temporarily effect a three-point leveling system and will eliminate twisting the plane as the adjustments are made. Leave the Left Rear adjuster tight. Break the Right Rear and Left Front adjusters loose, but leave the lock nuts finger tight. 4. Move the print head to the Left Rear corner of the work space. 5. "Zero" the indicator by turning the reference mark on the dial glass to align to the current position of the indicator needle. 6. Move the print head to Right Rear corner of the print envelope. Note the dial reading and adjust the leveling screw to attain a zero reading. Finger tighten. 7. Move the print head to the Front Left corner and note the reading and adjust until the indicator reads zero. Finger tighten. 8. Theoretically if the print bed is a true plane the bed will now be as close to level as is reasonable necessary, but the Left front corner has no support. 9. Without deflecting the print bed, take the slack out of the Left Front adjuster. 10. Move the print head to the Left Front corner and adjust to read a zero on the indicator. Finger tighten. 11. Re-check the reading in all four corners, make adjustments if necessary and snug the lock nuts. 12. Re-check again and tighten all four corners in the process. 13. Re-check again. Note: I started the procedure in the back corner because it is closer to the support structure and so eliminates some deflection and slop in the bearings from the starting reference point. Hoping to help. Matt

Mr Seeker, Just to clarify, although the UM can't currently print through windows with the ease of traditional printers, I could use the network to send, or if I understand "copy" the gcode file to the printer with file explorer. If this is true, in light of my above questions, there is no reason to install any software on my lesser PC. I could just transfer the files. I have read that some people use SDcards, Will a USB thumb drive do the same? I will need to do some more reading before I ask any more questions that I am sure have already been written about. Thanks.

Can the UM be set up as a network printer? If it can, the host could be almost any PC with a USB port. That way, all the programs can be installed on my work station PC. If possible, I would build or buy a cheap used pc and dedicate it to this purpose. Just thinking... Seems like Netfabb Engine should be installed on the better pc, but if I want to print using NF, at that point it would be on the wrong machine...

I am waiting for my machine to ship. Thinking about how I am going to run the softwares, installing some of the software before it arrives, and thinking about which of my 2 PC's I want to run from. I bought the Netfabb Engine for UM with my machine. One of my PC's is fairly new with a fast processor, 8gb of ram and a openGL graphics card as well as win7 64bit and SW software installed. This machine is a basically a cad workstation. Due to the machines location, I don't want to do my printing in that room. If I could, I would just install everything on that machine. My second machine is an older win XP 32bit laptop. It is a has an AMD 2.1Ghz processor and 1Gb of memory. I think this machine should work to print from although it probably is not very able to to do the pre-print processing. I will use SW, and ACAD (both on my workstation) and other open source software to do my modeling, Netfabb for prepping and slicing the models, RepG or Netfabb to send the prints, and I suppose Marlin for firmware. Does appear I have a correct understanding of how the programs work together? Should my older laptop be able to at least send the prints? Which softwares should install on which machine? Is there a licensing issue with Netfabb if I wish to install it on both machines? Thanks for your help Matt

Thank you Geo Hagen, I have downloaded the model, and have begun using it as a base to design a z stage add-on in Solidworks. I will share some details when I get a bit further. Matt

Also, Thank you MrSeeker and Joergen for your responses to my questions about dual extrusion and the taller machine. Matt

I see I stirred things up a little. I have re-thought my posting. I apologize for the joke terminology. It was rash of me to use that language. I take it back and accept accountability. If I could edit at least my topic title, I would gladly do that. I would also retract my later use of the "joke" in the body of my statement and tone down the post in general. It will be good to see these improvements that are reported to be under way. If it is possible to edit my posting or the title of the thread, I will gladly do that. If this is possible, please tell me how. I have to admit it is bad style to enter a new community in such a rash manner. Please accept my apologies. I hope to contribute to the community and watch it thrive. Sincerely, Matt

I have an idea for an add-on device to use along with Ultimaker (+ other printers). I would like to get access to a 3d model to use as a beginning point for my design. Does anyone have a model or know where one is. There is a model download link in the Ultimaker Wiki at http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_3D_models. That file seems to be corrupted. I have downloaded the file twice and Edrawings 2010 gives an error when trying to read the file. Does anyone know what version the file is? By the way, the linked file appears to be entirely too small to contain a model as complex as an Ultimaker. Thanks

I just ordered my Ultimaker. I will be new to 3D printing. I would like to learn something about designing parts for printing. I am interested in some guidelines, tips and hints, etc. Does such a reference exist? If so, please post a link. Thanks