mastory

I'm not an expert, but I have reconfigured my Marlin a couple times. The following is how I would solve your issues - not specific instructions. After using a Marlin builder like Amedee'a Builder, I open the resulting configuration.h file and step thru all the settings making whatever further changes are necessary. As a nube, I step through every setting from top to bottom making sure I tick all the necessary boxes and none extra. It's a text file that is well commented with instructions on how to make the settings. I think you can edit it in any text editor, but maybe the Arduino app might be best. Another good tool is an editor that allows comparing 2 files at once. The one I used is called Winmerge. This helps making incremental changes as you work toward your final version. Not all of your listed hardware upgrades will directly affect your configuration.h. From what I see - and my nube experience level, you need to make changes for; the feeder steps and maybe direction, the thermistor, and the graphic display. I'm not sure if the heater itself would require any changes. I would be concerned about if the voltage and current requirements match or are compatible with the motherboard and/or the hardware being replaced. Best of luck. It doesn't seem there are many people available who do these kind of tasks for pay. Its as likely someone will come along and help you for free. In the end, you'll be better off doing it yourself.

Thor, Did you build your own?

Perhaps the bed is slightly lower in the area of the warping parts? It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like your nozzle needs to be closer to the bed on the first layer. Or, put another way, the bed may need to be a hair higher. I think adding a brim would help these parts. If you're not already using some kind of adhesive on your glass, try some. I like Aquanet hair spray. Others like glue stick, or diluted craft glue...

There are 2 versions of the SSSDriver available depending upon logic voltage; 3-5v or 5v. Which is appropriate for UMO replacing A4988 chips? Thanks

Gr5, that's the same part that I'm printing

I guess I am guilty of Re classifying the Zebra stripe to something more name precise based on the findings in the Zebra Stripe thread, so same thing as I see it, but more specific name? Sorry to make more confusion. The symptoms (lines) in my first print mimic the 'zebra stripes'. I think they were corrected in one axe of my second print with the ROSC ground jumper added, but something else or questionable continuity of my jumper in the other axe caused the bigger waviness. Watterott is across the pond for me, but that could be ok

After sleeping on it, I will first check my belt tensions. If loose, will correct and reprint. If not, then print another test piece with the x & y chips swapped to see if the problem changes... Is there a reputable source for the SSSDrivers pre assembled for UM's?

I completed the ROSC ground jumper. Actually the surface mount resistors unsoldered accidentally, so I bridged the resistor location with solder (or at least I think I did - it's hard to see) The resistors are lost, and can't go back on. I'm fairly good at soldering, but this is very small work and difficult for 47yo eyes. I did this to the X and Y chips only, and then reprinted Torgeir's test piece. The longer straight side of the piece (side A) was basically parallel to the Y axis. This side has greatly improved in regard to the vertical lines discussed in the Zebra Stripe Thread. The most curved side (side B) however was basically diagonal across the bed, and has what I think are pressure ripples (can't think of the common term for these) that emanate from the Z seam. The first print had this, but to a much lesser extent. Of course, I used the same gcode, same filament, same temps etc on both pieces. This is natural colored ABS, layer height .15mm. Pre jumper part is on left labeled "1". Post jumper is on right "2" Side A was printed parallel to Y axis: The lines marked in the first piece are definitely gone on the second print, but the ripples are new. Side B was diagonal toward rear left: Major ripples Side C was parallel to X across front of printer: Way better on the first pass. According to info found in the Zebra Stripe Thread , R4 is to be jumped to ground for the desired effect: Not sure what to think. I think I'll try again tomorrow. If I got the chips mixed up, would it affect the current settings? Maybe one of my solder bridges is not really connected? Time for bed and the printer is out in the garage. I wonder if I bumped the X motor loose when I tipped the printer over for access?

If you have what I'm looking for gr5, I will gladly buy from your store. You do a lot for this community, and deserve more payback. I've looked before, but couldn't find a reference to the store. You should plug it more often, maybe in your profile if its possible. I do appreciate your help here as always. For my issue currently, I'm gong to read a bit more about the SSS driver chips and how they handle current decay - and/or - go ahead with the ROSC to ground jumper.

Thanks for digging Conny. I'll take that as a confirmation for A4988 chips. I looked pretty hard and could not find it. I'm still interested to know if the SSSdrivers have the end of step issue or not. At this point, I have no evidence to suggest yea or nea. Lack of it being mentioned may prevail. Quieter is always good. Not so significant for me - I print in the garage. Matt

Mine is an UMO from early 2012, with a green motherboard ver 1.5.7

I’ve been doing a lot of reading regarding the uneven X-Y travel caused by micro-stepping at the end of full steps, and am trying to determine the best solution to address the problem on my UMO. To test, I printed out @Torgeir 's test piece and indeed I have the lines caused by the 'end of step' uneveness. I've seen it in other prints forever, but just accepted it. I’m now confident it can be improved. I've read quite a bit about 3 different solutions, and they are all fairly cheap; TL-smooth adapters as discussed in this thread , tying the stepper driver ROSC pin to ground discussed here, or by upgrading to SIlentStepStick Drivers as discussed here. After all the reading, I am uncertain if the upgraded SSSDrivers have the skipped/uneven step issue at all. If not, this would be a good way to go, except that the motor voltages need to be adjusted, and motors reversed via firmware or wiring. The work here would be a stretch for my capabilities, but when facing a choice, I prefer simpler solutions. The ROSC jumper to me would be the ideal solution, but does require some deft soldering. What I have not been able to determine is, which driver chips the UMO's shipped with. It has been mentioned with measure of doubt that they have A4988 chips or possibly A4983. The data sheets indicate that the two chips do not have the same function in regard to the ROSC pin. By my reading, the jumper won't work with the A4983 chip. I looked at my chips, and can't tell because the heat sink covers the chip. I don't want to break them up unless I have the fix ready. The TLSmooth solution might be a good answer, but here again, it may depend on which A49XX chips I have installed. I’m not wild about the additional heat issues that should be dealt with. The chips do all have heat sinks already with the stock UMO fan set up. I’m undecided. Can anyone vouch for the fact that UMO shipped as standard with the A4988 stepper drivers? do the SSSDrivers exhibit the ‘end of step’ unevenness? Would the stock heatsinks and fan setup be sufficient with TLSmooth to dissipate the additional heat? Sorry for the novel, and thanks for your attention and help. Matt

Are there any issues with running this newest release along side of previous releases? Are there any particulars to be aware of upgrading from older versions? Will profiles be inherited? I currently have 2.5 and 2.7 installed, and running 2.5 primarily. I'm thinking I'l uninstall 2.7 so that my 2.5 settings may get pulled forward. Thanks

Completely reasonable Neotko. The open source ideal has been slipping away. Predictable and somewhat excusable for a company trying to sustain in a capitalist and litigious market environment. I for one have greatly appreciated your efforts here troubleshooting with users and moderating. Your technical contributions and passion for open source printing have been outstanding. Thank you Matt How difficult it must be for a company to allow such an off script message persist in their social media. My hat is off to UM if it is allowed to stand / age off the front pages. Could be damaging if it were to grow.

I am interested in either building a UM2+ to add the Mark2 upgrade to, or possibly borrowing the core mechanics from an UMO, adding 3rd party UM2+ compatible electronics and adapting the tool changer mechanics as required. Quite possibly I'll run some alternate extruder gear and hot ends. What are the key aspects of an UM2 that allows the implementation of the Mark2 retrofit. I am particularly interested in what is required from an electronics/control stance. I understand that I need a PCB that supports 5 steppers. Is there a minimum hardware version? What is a reasonable expectation as far available heater wattage from factory control hardware? Thanks Matt

I am so pissed at this forum right now. Just spent 20 minutes replying to a topic, and all was lost when I hit Post. Win7 premium with firefox. Just typed my message, hit Post, the page reloaded, and my composition was gone...

You might get this to work at some temp below printing temps, but to stand at idle indefinitely at printing temp will cause the filament to cook itself into a plug in a short period of time.

With a single nozzle machine like my UMO, the options are more limited. I sometimes split my model in 2 horizontally, and place the 2 halves split side down on the glass. The resulted glued part has a very consistent flat glue joint, and 2 printed top surfaces, and no supported surface on the finished part. Otherwise, have used the support roof option both with and w/o the support interface. I think the support interface can be set to undrrextrude which allows for better separation. I would like to explore a using very dense support roof (think top surface) with a dense, but thin and underextruded interface and zero distance to the supported surface.

I have had good results using the optional support roof, the particulars I can't remember, but it basically makes much more dense (by user definition) top on the support. It's perfect for horizontal overhangs. I can't see the other side of your part, or know its desigb intent, but it looks like it may be better suited to printing inverted.

Geert, the word you're searching for is chuck or drill chuck. Have no idea why it's called that... have had PLA melt when drilling with a motor, but not generally other plastics

I'm interested. Is it fully functional? Where are you located? I'm in Michigan Tried to pm yesterday, but it seems to have failed. I'll try again Thanks Matt

Agreed. I use cheap glass from the hardware store. I have a half dozen of them cut to the size I specified. For a few $ a piece, I consider them consumable. I get many prints from them before they fail. Never has a failed glass plate ruined a print. When in a hurry, I pre-heat one in the toaster oven to hot swap and keep printing w/o waiting. The thickness is consistent enough that there is no need to adjust Z depth with each new pane.

Of course there's more. I almost forgot, I generally print double walls, 10 top layers, and medium density infill. Like maybe 4-6mm spaced tetrahedral pattern. I am getting mechanical parts that with a little trial and error and some scaling are under +/-.2mm in size. Typical scaling is around 101.8% in X&Y and maybe 100.5% in Z.

Bigger nozzles. There are trade-offs, but for me I am really liking the speed of printing with .8mm nozzles. A .6mm nozzles might be a better trade off for you, but you will find a marked increase in model speed even with that.

I am having good success printing ABS on my UMO. I like it for the lack of stringing, overhangs, heat resistance and durability of the finished parts. Also, the parts are easier to post process as the material can actually be sanded as opposed to PLA. My setup is a non-standard, but this is whats working for me. Take from it what you can. -Heated bed set at 100C with glass and hairspray. -Large .8mm nozzle running around 243C. It's a custom hot end, but it shouldn't matter. -I am usually printing at around 35-40mm/s and .2mm layers. Quality goes down if faster, and if can I wait just a little longer everything is good. -No cooling fan -Closed off chamber with tailored oven bag over the top and clip in Lexan panels on all 3 sides. Contains the heat and the stench, although since I switched to ABS I only print in the garage. -The real kicker is an Amazon/Chinese PID heat controller powering a cheap hair dryer laying in the bottom of the enclosure. This cost about $45us to set up, and maintains a temp 48+/-.3C from start to finish. -I don't care about color and I like the constant results of the same filament. I am currently printing off a 5lb coil of Ultimachine Natural (off white/ yellow) ABS filament. I also think the lack of coloring agents aids in the heat/flow properties. It is also slightly cheaper in this color and in bulk. Matt