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IRobertI

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Everything posted by IRobertI

  1. Ah ok, that explains it 🙂 Head over to eiger.io that's where the slicer is.
  2. Markforged printers don't accept regular gcode, and Cura has no idea how to deal with the fibre reinforcement either. Is there a specific reason you don't want to use Eiger which is made specifically for those printers?
  3. Pause print, lift lever on feeder, pull old filament out, push new filament in (with a bit of extra push to properly prime), close lever and un-pause?
  4. Look at the line under that, it moves back to Z0.3 to begin printing.
  5. I assume you got a PDF with instructions from your reseller to do the firmware recovery? Did you follow the step where you use a separate program to write the firmware file to the memory card to make it bootable? You can't simply copy the file to the card, that will not work.
  6. That's supposed to be a zero, not an O as in Oscar. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011640440
  7. Take a look at this and see if it helps: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013799339-How-to-print-the-maximum-build-volume-in-Ultimaker-Cura
  8. Your slider block has cracked and is not holding the rod properly (look close and you'll see that there's a crack in it). Get in contact with your reseller to get that sorted out.
  9. While you should be able to print at that layer height, unless you have a very specific reason to do so, it's mostly a waste of time IMHO. You can actually get worse print quality at such thin layers because any tiny variation in the filament or anything else along the extrusion chain can show up. Personally I never go below 50micron and even printing at that layer height is exceedingly rare for me.
  10. Real late reply here, sorry. But no, a torque driver isn't necessary. Just make sure the screws are nice and tight when you're done.
  11. Are you sure that it's not just the plastic that has moved? Removing the part when it's still warm makes it easy to bend it. Another thing that can happen is that once the parts comes off the glass and cools, the plastic can move a little bit. The reason I ask is because the part looks more bent than printed at an angle since there's a curve to it. But to align the axes you can follow this guide: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017142879-How-to-align-the-axles-on-your-Ultimaker-printer Or this one that I wrote years ago which is the lazy way of doing
  12. I haven't had to remove the LED profile yet but as far as I know it is simply stuck in place with double sided tape, and then the LED-strip is glued to that in turn. This is what the rendering looks like which seems to show a strip of tape on the top. Not sure why you feel the need to remove it though? Once you slide the rod out of the side of the printer it has a little bit of give to it so that you can angle it slightly (not too much though, you don't want to damage the bearing) to make it easier to slide the new block+belt assembly on there. @gr5 There's only one LE
  13. Check the "Object list" in the lower left corner
  14. Try making your wall thickness just slightly thicker. Or reduce the line width setting in Cura a smidge. There's also a setting called horizontal expansion which will artificially make your walls a little bit thicker. Pick one of those three and you should be good to go. Basically what's happening is that it's an edge case for the math involved in creating the line segments.
  15. The UM2 Go is a single extrusion printer, only one nozzle, so dual extrusion settings are irrelevant in this case. Looking at the latest picture, the plastic that is loaded looks quite thin but I'm not 100% sure. But yeah, that's the first thing to make sure, the diameter should be 2.85mm (sometimes sloppily called "3mm"). Not 1.75mm which is the other standard and that will not work. Underextrusion is a complicated problem with many possible causes: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#underextrusion
  16. Do you mean Ultimaker 2 Plus? What material are you trying to print with? What settings are you using? What nozzle are you using? Is it a new machine, an old one, something inbetween? Has the printer worked fine before? Does it happen with all prints or just this particular one? What steps have you tried so far to troubleshoot? In short, we need a lot more info to be able to help.
  17. Yes, it will print at that size. Cura is metric, so if you're not sure you converted it to metric or not that should be the first thing you check. Alternatively you can scale it within Cura.
  18. So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is? You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
  19. I think what he meant was to change the number of "Outline/Perimeter Shells" to get rid of that infill in the middle. Adding one more shell might make it so that you get just solid wall lines. That said, I wouldn't worry about the printer failing because of this. But for speed and noise reduction it's nice to get rid of these kinds of movements.
  20. To help, people would probably like to know what your current settings are and what the goal is. I can say, "increase your print speed by 1" and I've technically answered your question 🙂
  21. Just something to keep in mind, Cura is metric. So if you export your models in imperial you'll have to scale them accordingly in Cura.
  22. You have opened a gcode-file rather than an STL (or other 3d-model file supported by Cura), that's why you can't change any settings.
  23. Unless you've turned off active levelling, the printer will measure and take care of the height offset between the two cores. To be a bit pedantic, the UM3 can also use Breakaway. The material was launched before the S3 and S5 existed.
  24. Not sure I agree with you here. Breakaway is made to be printed in the same(ish) way as PVA, in direct contact with the material you're trying to support. If you're going to have 1mm distance between support and support-material you might as well use the build material for support and save time and money.
  25. Do a lift switch calibration and you should be good to go: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120-Lift-switch-calibration
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