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Everything posted by IRobertI

  1. Can you move the print head freely by hand (with the machine turned off)? What happens if you move the print head to the front center of the print volume and then start a print?
  2. I have yet to find an easy way to remove them. Brute force seems to be the way to go 🙂 To get them back in place is also a pain in the arse. But I find that if you snip off the little tab at the bottom of the cover it makes it a lot easier since the cover is "over constrained" , to use CAD terms, with the bottom tab.
  3. For the S5 I'm afraid you need to go through your distributor to get this handled. Only people who have been through the official training with UM are allowed to do this procedure on the S5.
  4. Have you considered using magnets? Makes for a very compact way of keeping it closed. But of course it depends on how secure the lid needs to be, you still need to be able to open it after all 🙂
  5. Start Cura, don't load any models, swap over to "Preview". "Auto slicing" with a full progress bar will now show in the lower right indefinitely (or until you load a model). edit: Load a model, slice, delete it. Preview mode will still show the bar to scroll through the layers of the deleted model.
  6. Eww, the sizing of the pics went a bit wonky, oh well. Also, another thing I would love to see is a scalable interface. My eyes are getting worse by the year and the tiny text on a high-res monitor is getting harder and harder to read. Something else that has been bugging me for a long time is how slooow the settings are to populate. I display all settings and use search a lot (because currently that's the easiest way to find settings) and when clearing out the filter box it takes way too long to get all the settings back again. Similar if you click to use support for example, it takes a few seconds for the settings to show up so you can change support extruder etc. More than once I've clicked and all the settings have shifted in position as the new settings are being loaded in causing me to change something I don't want to change.
  7. I haven't tried cranking on the screw to see what happens so I'm not sure if that would be possible. In general the screws on an UM3 are tightened fairly "loosely". For the head it's 0.3Nm IIRC. Doesn't feel like something that would happen though unless there's very little margin for error for the spring fingers of the contacts in the head. I can't say I've had any customers with this particular problem so it's a bit difficult to diagnose without getting my hands on it to be honest.
  8. Yeah, I think the cable would be my first suspect as well. And by cable I mean more the contact and/or the individual pins in case one of them has managed to work itself loose. It's unlikely you managed to damage both cores so I would probably rule that out. And it's not really possible to assemble the head with the print head board in the wrong position causing a bad connection. And from the sounds of it, it's happening when the print head is homed, when there's the most stress on the cable.
  9. Is this a solid model or is it a thin shell? I'm guessing that latter and that the shell is thin enough in some spots that Cura can't quite fit a full line width in there. It's also a good idea to look at the model in x-ray mode and look for any red spots that indicates issues with the model.
  10. Have you tried letting it keep printing? How the first layer looks doesn't really matter in 99% of cases since it immediately gets hidden by the rest of the print. To me it looks like the first layer is slightly too close which causes some plastic to squeeze out on the side of the nozzle. I would try going back to defaults and letting a whole print complete (you can print something smaller obviously to not waste too much plastic) just to check if the other print issues stay or go away with the defaults.
  11. PLA can usually by printed on a clean (squeaky clean) glass plate. Personally I tend to use glue as it can be a bit more forgiving because I'm lazy.
  12. Unless I missed it you didn't mention what material you were using? Are you using a material that is sensitive to temperature and using a high fan speed on the second layer perhaps? Just a random thought.
  13. Disagree all you want, the problem is that some companies NEED this functionality, it is just that simple. It's a question that has been popping up regularly since the UM3 was introduced.
  14. Just make more accounts, easy. In the mean time I'll help by adding another one ("like" that is ).
  15. Could it be that you've installed the UM2+ Extended firmware on your printer by mistake?
  16. You might also need to force windows to use your dedicated GPU for Cura. You can do that in the Nvidia control panel (right click desktop -> Nvidia control panel):
  17. Another purpose of the tower is to make sure the nozzle is fully primed which may, or may not, make a difference depending on what and how you're trying to print.
  18. I think the closest setting that would be helpful in this sort of situation is "Hollow out object" which will make the object hollow so you can use support on the inside. For this particular model I don't think it would do much good though. But I thought I'd mention it anyways.
  19. What type of scale are we talking about here?
  20. To make sure you're truly back to "zero" with the install, go to Help -> Show Configuration Folder. The folder containing all your personal settings for Cura will open. Close Cura and then remove everything in that folder, once that's done you can restart Cura again. This should have you back to factory defaults so to speak. This usually fixes weird issues.
  21. My bad. I tried something that appears to work, but not 100% sure it's reliable. I added a machine I didn't have, a Prusa in this case, I then edited the start gcode for that printer and added a word to it. I loaded a model and then saved as project. I then removed the Prusa-printer and restarted Cura. I loaded the project file, the Prusa machine was added and the unique word was present in the start gcode. So maybe a workaround?
  22. Does the button actually mechanically click? I see that you're missing the "cup" around the dial, what's up with that?
  23. During the years I've learnt to never assume things like that. It has bitten me in the arse before You could also set up a camera to record what happens to maybe get some clues. You could skip loading any filament and lower the print temp once the print is started (so as to not cook the material left in the nozzle) so you don't have to waste any material.
  24. Did you also tighten the set screws on the pulleys attached directly to the motors?
  25. Could you post a few pictures of what it looks like?
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