IRobertI

First version of an ear bud holder. Not quite happy with it yet but it's ok so far. Sucky print quality due to incorrect filament diameter and semi-popped bowden (had to restart twice to get the last shell out). I've fixed that now though so quality should be back to normal.

I can't speak for anyone else but for me the logo is at the very bottom of the priority list

The speed is just crazy. I sliced an object last night in 13 seconds, in cura it took almost 3 minutes... I don't even think Netfabb can match it there. The thing that bugs me the most right now is that it seems to do a LOT of unnecessary jumping and retracting which adds time to the print for no reason. It needs something like Skeinforge's "comb" (or maybe it's already there but I haven't found it?). Also it needs a serious overhaul of the interface, it looks straight out of the 90s Ian, I think it's better to check the link to the google groups (*sigh*) in the other thread instead as my settings are quite old.

I've only seen 2-3 spammers since the big cleanup and those were accounts that were registered much earlier. I guess you're being too fast so I can't see them in time

I wanted to give the new extruder a proper test so I decided to print out this frog at twice the size and 0.1mm layers. For the slicer I picked KISSlicer since it does an insane amount of retraction (seriously, it's nuts. Take a look around 9 seconds in ). Unfortunately I didn't notice that a new version of the frog had been uploaded since I downloaded it a long time ago without the crazy overhangs so the underside of this print isn't exactly perfect.Oh well, at least the new extruder did its job. The last time I tried this model at normal size it didn't make it past 2-3mm height before the filament was ground to a powder due to all the retractions. Now it worked perfectly for the 7+ hours the print took to complete.

I have no thoughts or solutions for it but I can confirm that I've seen the same behaviour as well (although not quite as severe). When it happens it is always on parts similar in shape to what you show here. I don't have any examples handy as I haven't been printing much the last few months. I always figured it was just my machine, maybe that's not the case then.

Here you go: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033

Personally I've pretty much given up on Netfabb, they're just too damn slow to respond to the community. For me it has been delegated to rotate models (as cura flips everything rather than rotate which is annoying). Daid has faster turnaround time and he is ONE guy working for free (up until very very recently). Netfabb is a pretty damn expensive software and they put out an update once or twice a year, that's pathetic in my opinion. It's too bad as it has the potential to be the best slicer out there. Oh and another thing, if it was my product I'd be all over threads like these making sure my customers were happy.

Wake up to 120+ updated threads, 99% of it spam. Lock down registration now and get this sorted!

This was the one I took a look at yesterday: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SFU1605-Ball-Sc ... 1e705fc70f

I probably got my terminology mixed up, English is my second language and mechanics my... tenth What I meant to say was that they all seem to have a short distance between threads as in lots of turns per inch.

Ballscrews would be pretty sweet. Expensive though... the cheapest I found on Ebay now was $35 for a 25cm screw with nut. The ballscrews I've seen on Ebay seem to have pretty low pitch though so speed could indeed become an issue. Speaking of ballscrews, I have a few lying on the living room floor together with aluminium profiles, drivers and steppers. etc. it's supposed to become a CNC but... hasn't moved for three years now. $2000+ just lying there lol.

The long belts are what's pushing/pulling the head around so that would probably be counterproductive

It's kind of funny how the core issue with this whole thread is the one thing that isn't even mentioned. There's talk of open source, unpaid overtime (this part just blew my mind considering how much unpaid work a lot of people are doing for UM...) and alleged misuse of administrative powers all of which has nothing to do with the core issue. The issue of this thread is simply - spam. Solutions for which have been suggested by myself and others, simple solutions. There are plenty of phpBB forums running free of spam so obviously it's an issue that can be solved without any new budgets having to be involved. As for the other issues, well, they are separate issues and should be treated as such. BTW, the "UltimakerAdmin" account that Alexander has posted under before (and the one I sent the PM to as I wasn't even aware of this other account since it has never been used) should probably just be deleted or better yet, actually monitored.

Alright, that's a full work day (more or less) and my PM hasn't even been read yet nor has any of the spam been dealt with. Personally if I was the owner I'd be pretty upset about the state of the official forum but hey, that's just me.

I sent a PM to the community manager last night but he still hasn't read it... They really don't seem to care about this forum at all, if they did it wouldn't have gotten to this point. I mean they hired a community manager and he has posted two times during the last month. I don't expect daily posts but at the very least he should be monitoring the forum and seeing threads like these and act upon it.

Yes something really needs to be done as it seems things are escalating. I've looked around a bit and it seems that enabling the "Q&A" plugin under "Spambot Countermeasures" is very effective in stopping bot registrations. So that would be my first step. And if you need extra manpower with the cleanup I'd be happy to help.

It's the "thin wall problem". Cura (skeinforge) knows that the nozzle size is 0.4mm and if there's a wall that is say 1mm thick it will put one line on each side leaving a 0.2mm gap inbetween because it thinks it can't fill that space. Some other slicers work around this and doesn't have that problem. As for the other problem. Maybe your filament is slipping so that not enough material is being put down? Pull out a bit of filament and check if it has nice "teeth marks" in it and doesn't look chewed up.

It was to illustrate the wetness of the wet sandpaper Works great though, gives parts a real nice shine (if you have the patience for it). Oh and I finish it up with some polishing paste.

I'd turn them up a bit. I think I remember you saying that your motors were completely cool after you turned them down? Stepper motors do get hot and that's completely normal and expected. I seem to remember seeing that 85C is a quite common rating on stepper motors. So, if you can still touch the motor without getting scorched I think you're just fine. Of course there's no reason to run them hotter than necessary though.

When I don't need much: When I need to remove some more stuff: And when I occasionally get fancy:

While we're sharing tips. Don't stick your arm under the platform while it's moving down... just barely got my arm out in time and escaped with a scratch.

And let's not forget to thank Bertho for coming up with the design in the first place! I only recently printed out his upgrade but haven't had much printing time with it yet as I need to get a better spring for it (like an idiot I cut the spring I had because I thought it would be too stiff...).

Probably not since he's using Netfabb fritz, are you using volumetric printing or the old method? I'm thinking that maybe your filament is a little bit thinner than what the built in profiles were created for and therefore the printer is not putting down enough plastic. Using the volumetric printing method and entering a precise measurement of your filaments diameter should take care of that (if that is indeed the problem). Here's a guide on how to get into volumetric mode: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1009

I think I read/heard somewhere that they do something quite cute with the robot printing. They print the robot and then have the head crash into it from the side so that it breaks away, then the head moves down for another print. Or maybe that was someone else... either way it's possible to do that way