IRobertI

In Skeinforge there's a module called "Multiply" for this purpose. I don't know if cura gives you access to it but you might try Daid's own version of it that builds an object at a time instead of all at once. Or you could duplicate the object in your favourite 3d-editor. Or you could use Netfabb. I'm sure there are other ways but those are the ones that spring to mind at 9AM after 5 hours of sleep.

I didn't have to swap those switches on my 7-8 month old Ultimaker as far as I can remember. So either you got yours before me and they fixed it by the time I got mine or they screwed it up later which seems unlikely.

Is it fixed in the version that ships with Cura? That's the version I've got running on my machine. Haven't done any more testing so far though I'm afraid, been feeling a bit meh lately (got fired, yay...).

I use both the "paper method" and the "tinfoil method" depending on how tired I am... I always use the same thickness for the first layer as the rest of the layers, I don't want to start with a fat layer first, never got the reason for that. As the first layer is printing I manually adjust the height by turning the axis by hand a click or two. If you've tuned the height correctly this isn't needed most of the time but I like to keep an eye on the first layer regardless. On very large solid bottom layers I sometimes let out the pressure a bit so to speak by lowering the bed a click or two for just a few seconds, this gives any pent up pressure a chance to release. This helps when you want to avoid popping your bowden. Generally though, on small to medium prints with a properly levelled bed I just make sure the first few lines go down clean by making sure the print head doesn't drag any pre-extruded material with it etc and then I just let it run. As for the parts being hard to remove. I've found that if you're able to get a utility knife in a few millimeters in a corner you can twist the blade and just hold it there for a few seconds. After a little while you can hear stuff moving (crinkling noises from the tape) and you can apply a bit more twisting pressure, eventually the part pops off. But for me that problem only happens on large solid bottom layers. On medium to small objects I can usually just snapp it off from the platform cleanly with my hands.

The fill looks pretty ok towards the top left. I'd say worry about the belts first and get those circles closer to a circle. That might be enough to close up the fill as well.

Good news Gave it a quick try just now and ... well, the results weren't exactly what I was expecting. I followed the steps in the first post and then sliced a random simple object. I then loaded up the gcode in printrun and to my amazement it actually displayed a preview, nice. I heated up and hit the print button. - The printer homed to the front left corner as usual - It then shot straight over to the upper right side of the printer (previously it did a nozzle wipe by going to the top left) - In the top right corner it started printing what looked like a half assed raft (no raft selected, only outline). It did about 3-4 lines of this. - The head then moved to the starting location for the outline and completed that nicely. - At completion of the outline I got a checksum error (I think), printrun crashed and I had to manually move the platform down to save it from burning. For what it's worth the amount of extrusion looked about right from what little I could see but then again I used a profile that was calibrated previously so I don't know if it's relevant. Too tired to do any further tests tonight.

Unfortunately Netfabb is still stuck in the stone age when it comes to calibration. You should NOT use the builtin routines to do the calibration. See here instead: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/NetFabb_Setup ... alibration A new version that uses volumetric printing like slic3r/cura/skeinforge/every-other-slicer-out-there uses has been "coming soon" for a few weeks now. Hopefully it wont be much longer... In short, calibration in Netfabb is a pain in the ass (but prints awesome once it's calibrated and has a vastly superior interface) so if you can wait a while longer I'd suggest sticking with the alternatives for now.

I know this might not be quite the right thread for this but I didn't want to create a new one just for one silly question. What I'm wondering is if anyone knows what kind of timeframe to expect for shipment of spare parts? I ordered a v3 bolt over a week ago and it still hasn't shipped. Now I realise that the guys are swamped with "real" orders but I just feel like such a tiny order should be able to get filled relatively quick since it's just a matter of dropping a bolt in an envelope. edit: I guess I'll answer myself Ordered on the third and it was delivered today. It seems someone forgot to update the status of the order to "shipped" hehe.

Could be a bowden pop, that has by far been my biggest problem with the printer, had to fix one yesterday. Easy enough to check: set the temp to something like 165 or so (I like to keep the temp down a bit as any remaining plastic wont be so runny), remove the four screws holding the hotend in place and see if plastic has leaked and gotten in contact with the PEEK.

Unfortunately discussions are happening both on the forums (which I prefer) and over at the Google group. Here's the relevant thread: http://groups.google.com/group/ultimake ... 7b81dfde6a edit: And as a perfect example for why I prefer the forums, here's an edit with a link to the newest bolt https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-and ... ion-3.html

Click the "Dimension" button and make sure "Activate Dimension" is checked.

Yeah there's a lot of options but it's not hard to figure out that it is under "Cool" -> "Cool type"

1) Yeah I thought that was a bit silly myself when I read that step. Personally I used another part (or was it some of the scrap bits, I can't remember) instead to get a square edge on both ends. Then I simply got it as close as I could and it seems to work fine. I'd say get it as square as you can, try to print a few things and see how it goes. If you need to you can always print something to use as a squaring tool 2) My machine is also quite stiff. I think there's a video in the wiki that shows someone moving the print head around very very easily with just the tip of their finger. I think this was filmed with an early version and they stiffened up the whole mechanism quite a bit. As long as the motors don't have any trouble moving things around or it is extremely stiff I don't think you need to worry. My machine is far from silky smooth when moving it manually but the prints are great (at least I think they are ). 3) I honestly don't remember how this step went for me so I can't comment. 4) Yup, had the same problem. I later replaced them with these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17058

I got my serial about an hour after I got the order/payment confirmation. I don't know how automated the process is but surely they should be able to get it out to you within a day even if it is done "manually". And no, you will not get a CD, just a serial number.

And when you cut it, make sure it is a straight and clean cut. edit: And I just printed another copy of your clamp the other day Owen. You're a life saver My old one broke since it was the earlier version that was a bit weaker and with my short tube it put too much strain on it when the head was parked so it eventually snapped. The newer version looks much better.

Yes, normally it shouldn't happen. But, if the pressure gets too high it can lead to the bowden tube slipping from the little white thingy that keeps it in place. This then creates a small space between the brass tube of the hotend and the bowden where the plastic can ooze out. Then, as it touches the PEEK it hardens up and extrusion grinds to a halt. This is why Owen's bowden clamp is so popular as it helps keep the bowden in place.

A quick check to see if it's simply that your nozzle is too close to the platform is to wait until it looks like the extrusion is getting a bit thin, then manually lower the build platform by giving the z-axis screw a little twist (two or three "clicks" should be enough), if there's suddenly a rush of plastic oozing out you will know that your nozzle is too close in that area or that your machine isn't calibrated properly and is trying to deposit too much material. If you're overextruding that can also lead to the dreaded bowden pop followed quickly by a jam caused by plastic getting in contact with the PEEK. So it's a good idea to make sure everything is nice and level and calibrated to avoid headaches later.

I finally did the obligatory Yoda print, took me long enough... edit: And it was to test out Cura. 0.1mm layers with skin enabled, two perimeters. I noticed that Skeinforge still creates those annoying "ghost" layers in the middle of no fill prints. I know the reason for them but they seem a bit arbitrary and unnecessary at times.

You will connect the fan and the other electronic connections in the very last step: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev ... lectronics

If it's super tight or if the PLA is softer than normal you might be squishing it so hard that it deforms so much that it starts having trouble getting through the bowden. Personally I doubt it though as PLA tends to be pretty darn hard. But it's worth checking out, yank out the filament (while the hotend is hot of course) and try to pass it through the bowden by hand and see if there's a lot of friction. Another thing might be that the stepper is getting just barely enough current to do its job properly. Maybe there's a kink in the PLA that makes it harder for it to pass through the bowden from time to time and the motor is just on the borderline of being able to push it and starts skipping steps. I'm pretty sure you'd hear that happening though as it would change the sound of the machine. Random thought though

My uneducated suggestion is: Have you checked if your filament is slipping during the print? Check to make sure that the hobbed bolt is clean and that the tension screw is tight-but-not-too-tight

It works if you go directly to the image: http://postimage.org/image/y2n7xnnzb/

Nice one chemwhite, I'm glad I'm not the only one who has sat in front of the printer furiously blowing through a straw and looking silly It worked great for the tips of the rotating cube but I did get a bit light headed :lol:

How hot is hot? Have you measured it at all? Steppers do tend to run quite hot but usually it's not something you need to worry about. Just pulling a number out of my @$$ from what I've read in the past I wouldn't worry unless it starts going above say 60-70C. Even at around 45C it will start to get uncomfortable to touch but it will not be dangerous to the motor. If you're still worried you could try lowering the drive current. You'll know you've lowered the current too much when it starts skipping steps.

Ah ok, I guess that's something they've added to later kits as that was not included in mine.