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IRobertI

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Everything posted by IRobertI

  1. My brain wasn't quite firing on all cylinders there when I replied. I read 70mm like something completely different... Yeah, you can probably find a reseller that has one of the older, longer ones (where are you located?). Or if you ask Ultimaker directly real nice they might be able to help you out.
  2. No, they do not make other spool holders.
  3. You can set the material type in cura 2.1. I can't seem to be able to replicate the problem though. I added a "testPLA" material and tried with firmware from 15.04.5 and 2.1.0 and files sliced with both versions of cura as well.
  4. He has upgraded them to 2+ so he has fresh TFMs in there, and fresh bowdens. It's a bit strange to say the least.
  5. Invesalius can do the conversion for you. I've been meaning to print out my own spine and hip bones since forever but I've never gotten around to it. There's some cleanup that needs to be done after the conversion and I've never managed to make myself do it. It's hard to get a clean surface while keeping things solid and "random blobs floating in the air"-free.
  6. The absolute quickest way would probably be to head to your local electronics store, if you have one, and grab a switch from there. If not, get in contact with your local reseller and see if they have any in stock to send you. If they don't and have to order from Ultimaker first, I would order a switch online from one of the many electronics suppliers like Digikey etc (not sure where you're located). That would be quicker than waiting for two shipping times so to speak. You'll have to de-solder the old switch from the wires and solder on the new one though.
  7. I don't know the company, I have no idea if they're any good, all I know is that I have this voucher and I have no need for it. US only I think. If someone grabs and uses it, let me know so I can remove it. [media-thumb=15134][/media-thumb] [media-thumb=15135][/media-thumb]
  8. Yeah, it went from spring to winter in about 2-3 hours.
  9. Ah, spring, so close to summer, isn't it nice?
  10. If it were me I'd probably try swapping over the feeder first and then the stepper motor from a good machine to a bad one to see if that changes things.
  11. This might help: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/36-creating-custom-material-profiles
  12. You can't update firmware while it's printing, I don't think I've come across any type of hardware you can update firmware on while it's still working to be honest. When you connect the USB cable and the Arduino inside starts chatting with the computer, it restarts which looks like the printer lost power and came back to life again. Do you have access to another computer to try on? That would remove one variable from the equation. One other thing to test is to check what COM port number that the printer is emulating. I assume OSX has the equivalent to Windows device manager where you can check that. Then put in the correct port number under Machine -> Machine settings -> Serial port. Sometimes the autodetect doesn't work as it should. It does sound like it's connecting like it should, but still, doesn't hurt to try. Oh and this one might seem dumb, but have you tried a different USB cable? I had a camera a while back that behaved really weirdly, turned out the cable was crap.
  13. Very simple reason this is happening, cura uses metric and you're giving it files scaled for imperial. The reason it only prints a disc is because the sides of the circle are simply too small to physically be possible to print so it skips them entirely. Export in metric or use the scale tool in cura to fix it.
  14. What did you read that advised you to use firmware from almost two years ago?
  15. Extreme longshot: Which version of cura are you using? Are you using the "next generation" with the new interface? If so, maybe autoscaling could be the culprit? It seems extremely unlikely since the print doesn't look all that big and I would think cura would scale both pieces equally to make them fit if that was needed.
  16. 1/4in is ~6mm to save some time for those of us who don't count with our fingers and toes And yellowshark is right, that's a very large error in dimensions. Are you sure the two halves line up digitally as well? Have you tried printing a circle, is it an actual circle? Have you tried printing a square, is it an actual square? Also, you're underextruding quite heavily. Try doing a few Atomics and/or replace your PTFE coupler if you've been printing for a long time. And it looks like you don't have enough top/bottom thickness to close the top properly. It could also just be because of the underextrusion.
  17. I think that's going to be very hard to answer without knowing exactly what settings were used on both. There are so so many variables to take into account.
  18. This is the guide yellowshark is referencing: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/
  19. If the pieces that need support has an angle at all you could try playing around with the expert settings for the support and change the angle it activates at. Expert -> Open expert settings. But it sounds like it would probably be better to design the extra support yourself. People are usually smarter when it comes to generating support like that.
  20. You're not going to be able to compress it just by pushing, it's too strong for that. To increase pressure you turn the screw counter-clockwise which might be a bit counterintuitive. Generally the white indicator should be at the top, where the pressure is lowest. But I doubt this is the issue. It's more likely you have a blockage in the nozzle. I would start by doing a few "Atomics" which is a method we use to clean out the nozzle. You can read about it here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the You want the plug to come out clean, or close to it. White is a good colour to use for obvious reasons. If the printer has been running for a long time (a few hundred hours) it could also be time to replace the PTFE coupler which is the white piece in the middle of the print head. With time it deforms and causes friction.
  21. Ok, new prints, now with the overhang on the right. I adjusted the nozzle so that it was sticking out 3mm (was at 4mm previously). There are some slight differences but I wouldn't say they are major. If you look closely on the UM2+ version on the third "tooth" from the front you can see that it has caved in slightly while on the clam version it did not. The two most extreme overhangs are slightly better looking on the clam as well. If you look at the left front corners of the first few teeth here you'll see that the UM2+ version has a crisper edge than the clam. The UM2+ also has less curling on the tips. On the last two, both shrouds seem to produce similar results but I'd give the clam the edge here.
  22. To help the developers fix this, please share the full gcode and the models if possible. That will help them try and reproduce the problem on their end.
  23. It's unlikely that it's cura causing it as I think we would have a lot more reports on it if that was the case. Have you tried with another card? Or tried it on a different computer?
  24. Could either be underextrusion or bed drop. In this case I think I'm more inclined to think that it's underextrusion causing it. How many hours have you printed? Did it start abruptly or have you noticed a steady decline in print quality? Have you had to increase your temperature on prints that previously printed just fine?
  25. I'm afraid we're still at the nasty chemicals like chloroform stage when it comes to PLA and solvents. Some people have had good success with burning it out and then rinsing in alcohol. I believe korneel made a tutorial on that a while back. I don't have the link handy right now but I'm sure someone else does. You could also experiment with atomics with other materials like XT or Nylon, both will sometimes remove stuff that straight PLA wont.
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