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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

thomix

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  1. Is there any way to set the temperature from Cura? It's kinda handy to switch filament.
  2. I am clumsy, impatient and have the reflexes of a glacier, but I still managed to get the entire machine working in one go. The instructions are clear and everything only fits one way
  3. The stress in the object that causes the warpage builds up over length so longer distances cause more stress. You can reduce this by cutting in your model, for instance make a hole in the center.
  4. Don't worry too much about the extruder, just don't expect to be printing at the insane speeds some of us seem to achieve I started at 100 mm/s and although some very small prints came out, its just too demanding. Turning down printing speed solved all my problems (mostly extruder); I've upgraded my extruder to prevent slipping, but now other problems pop up. Patience is the key!
  5. I think the most interesting of dual head extrusion is the option to use PVA as water-soluable support; this allows you to print _anything_ without design constraints. Shame its so expensive... edit: And what do replicator owners use for slicing and printing? How did they solve the problems you see?
  6. Yes, I think so, but that rough surface ruins the surface quality of your first layer. So far, I havent gotten anything decent of the kapton, so I think that I'll go back to blue tape until I get a heated bed.
  7. I completely agree. However, maybe its possible to hide those features in default mode (like Simple is now) and call this the Super-expert tab? Maybe it's possible to integrate this all in an Office-like ribbon
  8. Oooh so exciting! I wanted to do this since before I bought the machine but I kept worrying about software (how will the slicer know which head to use?) and how to transition from one material to the other - preferably within one layer. Good luck!
  9. I don't think I stand alone in loving Cura as it is right now: I didn't buy Netfabb and I never regretted that. My prints come out awesome and slice fast. However, being Dutch it is my perogative to complain about everything So I tried to compile a little list of new features/more control I would like in Cura. Regarding infill (and I know how the Skeinforce infill code is driven by incomprehensible magic ) * Alternating wall thickness. If one layer has a wall thickness of one additional line and the next has one less, the walls will nicely interlock with the infill. I think this will resul
  10. I actually bought the tape from that ebay link as soon as I saw is and it just arrived. Total cost incl shipping: 8 euro. I can get at least 10 beds covered from this one 50mm wide roll. Experience so far: * Harder to put on than the blue tape because it sticks better to the bed, it forms bubbles (compares to putting a screen protector on your phone) and if you pull to hard it deforms a bit. * Looks way better than blue tape * The first print (testing second now) looked perfect on the bottom side: mirror-like shine compared to a dull surface on blue tape * It seems to stick not as well as
  11. You dont need that much friction to print, just dont expect the best prints
  12. You can download and print belt tensioners, I couldnt get tension high enough either out of the box. Look for 'em on Thingiverse.com (search for ultimaker belt). You'll be amazed how much friction the steppers can overcome, but check if all axes are perpendicular and that pulleys are in line with the carriages (so the belts are straight).
  13. I built this extruder as well and I am very happy with it. Running at 329 steps per E and have not seen any jamming any more. If the bowden tube pressure builds up too high the motor simply skips steps, relieving pressure. Great design! Just the metal parts are a bit expensive (59 ex shipping) but well worth it imo as an upgrade over the stock feeder.
  14. If you have extruder issues with jamming, try calibrating the filament thickness and steps per E very carefully: too much extruded material will cause a pressure buildup in the bowden tube and the extruder will slip and strip the filament, causing a jam. Slower printing allows for a bit of extra plastic to push through during infills, and an alternative is to get a new feeder. I got the one by Ghagen which grips the filament so well that the motor skips steps without skipping; this lowers the pressure in the bowden tube and does not jam. The wobbling can be caused by slack belts (backlash) o
  15. Not to mention the printing speed, volume goes up with the cube of the length! They'd better use a massive nozzle for any performance at all...
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