magmotor

Thanks for that info....its good to know it's just a model problem The printer just quits, period....lights stay on, fans keep running..in fact the information about which line is being printed at the bottom of Cura keeps going, like its still printing .. :shock: When I hit Pause or Reset, the hour glass shows up and at the top of the Cura Box it says "Windows is not responding to Cura etc etc:.....In the Dos Box it says: "Time out on line... whatever"......I have too shut the computer down completely and do a restart.....Nothing I've tried will restart the printing. I think I've got a USB problem. One of the gadgets I've got is on a Time Limit and shuts down when its reached. The Ulticontroller would be the answer to this problem but for now a little expensive on the budget. Thanks again for the help.... :!:

Daid...could this by why my printer is shutting off when it gets to these lines while printing? The Drivers arn't hot, the motors are running warm to the touch, everything seems to fine but it just shuts off for no reason, except for this maybe. What is the RunTime Error? Thanks for any information.

Those X/Y/Z Buttons don't Mirror the Object, they Rotate it. Mirror means to 'duplicate' the object, like looking into a mirror. You would have 2 objects on the table after you 'Mirror' it, only complete opposites. It would be nice to have a "Mirror" control and also a "Move", so you could locate the object anywhere on the table you like, to print and to adjust for Mirror.

I printed this out and got the 50x50mm fan for it. It runs so quit that I sometimes have to put my fingers underneath to make sure the fan is still running.....used it now, over a month with no problems.... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28498

Here is AutoCad's 3D Rotate Ring. Just pick a point, move your mouse over which direction you want to rotate, type in a degree and it's done. Very easy too use.....I understaqnd your using 3D Studio Max...could be the exact same thing, not sure....just a thought on the rotation bit.......

i thought it was just me....i can barley make out the icons, the little paw on the first one (windows I think) apple on the second one ( Mac i think) and not a clue on the third... :?: .. but when I install the first button (windows) it won't work...the dos window comes up and 2mm seconds, it goes away....don't know.... :( ... so I just keep with cura4...... :(

I tried quite a few but none worked as well as these.... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19818.. . I imported his DXF file into AutoCad and made them thinner so I could put two on each bracket....really works well and can tighten the belts really tight and they stay tight...no worries about hitting anything either....

welp, iam going in the wrong direction here...loaded up .08 & when I click on the Batch file or Printrun, the black dos box comes up for only a few mil seconds then disapears....unistalled it and tried again but same thing....guess i'll just stick with Cura4 for now, its doing a great job...thxs again for the help...!

yea its really strange, been using .07 for a while, loaded a model and all of a sudden it jumps out of view...like the pivot point from the center of the box jumped to above, and way out, from the box. I am using xp pro and no, haven't tried .08 but will.....will let ya know what happens....Thxs...!!

When I bring a model into 12.07 the Box Frame in the GUI almost completely disappears to the bottom. The only way I can view the model is from the Top view and it is far far away. When I rotate it too a side view the only thing that shows is the Top of Box the model sits in. This happens with every model I bring into it. I reinstalled 12.07 several times but the same thing occurs. When I load the same models into Cura4 it comes in perfect. The Box Frame sits a quarter way up from the bottom of the window and can easily be rotated to view the model. Any ideas or suggestions what I could try in 12.07 to fix this? Thanks...!

I have a 2lb roll of (white) ABS iam not going to use. Was going to do a Hotbed but decided too stick with PlA for now. Will trade straight across for a white roll of 2 lb PLA or will sell it for a lot less than you'd buy on line. I got this from '3dprinterstuff.com' still in its plastic wrapping. Iam in Biloxi, MS wouldn't think shipping to be much over $6-$7 here in the States. Will use PayPal too make transaction easier, checks or money order would have to clear. Thanks for looking...!!

Do you have, in your program you use, the commands 'Union' 'Subtract' 'Intersect' for "Solids"? In AutoCad you can say create a solid box, 40mm x 40mm x 40mm then create a smaller box, 36mm x 36mm x 36mm and move the smaller box inside of the larger one, evenly spaced. Then use the 'Subtract' command to subtract the smaller box from the larger one. You'll end up with a hollow box with 4mm walls. Same can be done with your House. If you don't have these options for "Solids" then I imagen it can't be done this way....just a thought....

The longer the prints the more frequent the sound becomes. I had the same thing and here's what I found on mine. It was the 'spiral plastic wrap' that the wires from the print head to the extruder motor are wrap in. When it goes in a long Y direction it compress the plastic and because of the way it's made will snap apart at the slits and make the popping sound. It may snap at one slit or several making several popping noises. It will do the same thing going back in the Y direction when it decompresses. The way I found this is just put your hand around the plastic while it's printing and you will feel the snapping. The way I fix it was just do nothing. The plastic eventually conformed to the curve it's in now and the noise went away.....that was my issue anyway..hope this might help....

Actually, most likely, you'll blow up one of them or both. You cannot put regulated supplies in parallel Actually, you can. It's done all the time. You shouldn't put these small 120v a/c power supplys, that come with the kit in any parallel configuration. But supplys that have variable CV and CC can and are, put in circuits for higher current. CONNECTING POWER SUPPLIES IN PARALLEL TO PRODUCE HIGHER CURRENT Two or more power supplies being capable of CV/CC automatic cross over operation can be connected in parallel to obtain a total output current greater than that available from one power supply. The total output current is the sum of the output currents of the individual power supplies. The output of each power supply can be set separately. The output voltage controls of one power supply should be set to the desired output voltage (CV); the other power supplies should be set for a slightly higher output voltage. The supplies with the higher output voltage setting will provide constant current output, and will drop their output voltage until it equals the output of the CV supply.

or is it safe to run two 120W 19V power supplies in parallel to the Ultimaker? That way I get an additional 120W for the heated bed. Hopefully you didn't put two 120W power supply's in parallel....that will definitely not work. you'll only get 60W- 3amps out of each line.....ohms law

nothing dissolves PLA, at least nothing that should be in your home... heat it up to 180C, and wipe it off while it's warm Acetone dissolves PLA and is commonly found in any hardware store, Lowes or Home Depot and is fairly cheap. I dip a Q-tip in it and wipe all around & the nozzle. the PLA comes right off. You can blend out a bad area or even lines of a finished layer, if you want to take the time to do it. I use a small piece of tin foil and a multimeter to calculate Z before every print. Doesn't take long at all. If you see a nozzle impression on the blue tape your way too close. You can gently push down on the bed while it's printing the first layer and observe any changes in the flow. You can adjust the bed even while its printing and observe. A cpl times of adjusting and you'll have it down to an easy routine....have fun..!

"You can use any 3D program you like, as long as it exports in mm and can export "STL" files." You can use any cad program that exports in (feet & inches) or mm....just use the 'scale' option in any slicer program to adjust the size of the object being printed....plenty of people on here to help if you need it.....have fun..!!

thxs Ian...here's the best I could do....print quality came out fine for me....a little ruff at some places but Iam more concerned with function than looks....iam still working on the finner small pieces but it's gonna take a while.... My father was an avid coffee drinker until at an age where one hand started shaking so bad he couldn't even separate a filter, i even have a hard time with em.....so I made him one of these...just push down & up pops a filter...it made life much easier for him and could enjoy a cup every morning....so having this printer I decided too make one on steroids...lol...I think iam going to do a Real Madrid, whom I think is going to win the World Cup and the Dutch Team is going to come in 2cd.......

a while back when I was having problems with connecting and the same thing you are I ran across a site that said If you have a Logitech Device or Web Cam connected there are some .exe files & .dll files that always stays on top and interferes with other programs. If you have a cam on your computer you might want to disable it and see what happens...any other program that has the 'stay on top' checked will interfere also....just a thought....

Here are some glasses iam working on. This is the first time I've ever used a 'support structure'. I think it used more PLA in the support than it did the whole frame...! lol :lol: but it worked out beautifully...everything turned out like I had hope....the only thing I noticed was that it said it would take 5hrs & 28mins but it went on for 6hrs & 40mins....don't know why..all my other times were right on.......

[and where did you get that fan shroud from? that's an interesting one I'd like to know more please, It looks like this one. I've printed it out but haven't installed it yet so can't tell you how good it works. The original fan duct that came with UM is still working great but when it goes, i'll have a replacement. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21182

wow excellent...! Well I give up...Im not up on this software thing so going too leave it like it is.......got past the xyz check but now it won't read the temp sensor.....skiped the load firmware keeping the Marlin Build and still won't read the temp....load it up in Printrun and the temp is fine, monitors fine, everything working...so gonna quit while iam ahead.... :lol: thanks for trying to help..!

Nothing else connected to the computer.... I did set the COM & Baud in the Preferences....here's where I get a little lost... :? the 'console window' your talking about is the Wizard or the Dos window?? The Wizard shows no errors at all...it's the DOS window that goes crazy..if you'd like to see that your gonna have to tell me how to capture it.... Thanks much..!! comming from a Pro I appreciate that... If that's the case Im gonna leave it like it is then...it's printing too good to mess with..... thanks again.....

Daid, I've been using your Cura with the Marlin Build firmware now for quite some time. It is doing beautifully. I've printed out more than 30 modular pieces now and they were all right on..! so knowing the printer is doing good I thought I'd try your firmware that comes with Cura to even more improve the build. I've tried to load it now several times but keep hitting a snag. When I get to the "Make sure the head is in the center of the machine and the bed is lower etc....." the Dos Window shows 'connect x, y z' about 5 times a second and rolls up the machine faster than I can read it....so I'm stuck there and finally cancel out of it...Any ideas why that happens?? :roll: below is a pic of just one of the many modular construction Im doing...everything fits perfect..!! really enjoying this.... thanks for any inforamtion

will do....thanks