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  1. Hello Dead, You must be rigth my print has a huge resolution with much details.
  2. Hello Nallath, Following your advice, I reported the bug. Here is the link : https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/799 Didero
  3. @Daid, Does that problem will be taken into account as a Cura "bug" ?
  4. Thanks everyone for your answers. I used the last 14.03. I always print with the ulticontroller. I will try the trick from gr5 advice (old/new profil). I tried to upload the stl file but I'm not allowed to do so !
  5. Hello all, My last print with the new cura 14.03 gave bad results, here are 2 pictures of the same object printed with both cura 14.02 and 14.03. With cura 14.03 every circle shape part are very bad. The result was even worst than what you can see on the picture (actually I sanded the part a bit) I used default settings on both print and same temperature same filament and same height (0.2) Do you experienced something similar ? Do you know what is causing this bad result ? Thanks in advance! Didero
  6. Bonjour Alex, cet évènement semble très prometteur, j'espère qu'il rencontrera le succès escompté ! Je travail le weekend donc je ne pourrai pas m'y rendre à grand regret, mais j'ai relayé l'info sur mon blog. Si tu veux y jeter un oeil : http://replica-3d.fr/toulouse-hackerspa ... ing-event/ N’hésite pas a me faire des remarques à ce sujet en message privé. Didier.
  7. Salut Hugo, Non les traces noires ne sont pas "normales" et correspondent surement à des fuites de plastiques qui en exposition prolongée à la chaleur du bloc d'aluminium viennent à "brûler". L'idéal est d'obtenir une parfaite étanchéité entre le tube de laiton relié à la buse et le bloc d'aluminium... Mais pour ma part, je n'ai pas réussi non plus à l'obtenir, alors je fais avec, et je n'ai pour l'instant pas trop de soucis avec ces "fuites" (parfois un peu de plastique "cramé" tombe lors de l'impression, aussi, je nettoie le plus souvent possible avant de lancer une impression). Je n'ai pas envie de redémonter la tête pour tenter d'améliorer l’étanchéité, je l'ai déjà fait 2 fois en augmentant la dose de PTFE autour de la tige filetée reliée à la buse, sans que cela ne supprime le phénomène. J'ai en prime casser cette tige filetée lors de l'un de mes démontages (il faut démonter à chaud). Certains utilisateurs ont choisit une solution qui consiste à utiliser une sorte de pâte durcissante adaptée aux hautes températures, comme celle-ci : http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm Cette solution est évoquée dans ce post : http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=292&hilit=leaking et apparemment cela à fonctionné pour eux ! Le peek sert en effet à isoler la partie chauffante du reste de la tête, c'est sa principale fonction dans la tête d'impression d'ou son nom : Peek insulator --> Isolant Peek Bon courage et dis-nous quelle solution tu auras mis en place si tu t'attaques à ce problème de fuite !
  8. Salut à tous les utilisateurs francophones ! J'ai récemment crée une carte des utilisateurs francophones de l'Ultimaker, afin de pourquoi pas, tenter des rapprochements entre utilisateurs isolés, et découvrir s'il y a une ultimaker près de chez vous. Je vous invite donc à vous y inscrire, ou inscrire votre FabLab ou hackerspace si votre organisation en possède une ! Cela se passe sur mon blog à cette adresse : http://replica-3d.fr/carte-des-utilisateurs-dultimaker-francophone/ A bientôt ! Didier
  9. Sure ! Try it and tell us ! The only inconvenient thing was to remove the circles ! I used an end cutting plier and a nail file (a disposable one), it worked great !
  10. Thanks Joergen for your reply ! So I guess if I don't want (or don't need) to print multiples copies, I could also reduce the print speed at least for the first layers (and also turn off the fan ) ?
  11. Hi everyone ! it's been a while !!! So I finally gave a try to the disc trick advised by Micha. It is for a box I'm trying to make for the snootlab LCD and SD card reader kit I implemented on my UM. See the result below : Assembly_Manual_-_Heated_Bed_Update_kit_1.1_(1).pdf So I would say +1 for the disc trick it works quite well !
  12. Hi Alex, Thanks for your reply ! I wish I could help but sadly this is too far from my skills ! I can just encougage you to continue the good job !! Cheers ! Didero
  13. Hello Alx ! Any progress with your work ? I downloaded the "compiled" version of the firmware you previously gave in that post and it has worked for me, but as you said your firmware is not based on the last version of marlin I followed that thread to keep me informed and to know when I could upload the most up to date firmware! Anyway thanks for the good job you already shared here ! I have my snootlab kit that works thanks to you ! Waiting to hear from soon ! Didero
  14. Hi Tecnao, Sorry for answering you so late but I didn't suscribe to that post so I wasn't informed you posted a message! To answer your question, yes, I had the same issue with the bearings of the head! I glued them as well ! I used a regular glue (like "super glue" the one that sticks your finger in a second !!! Not sure about that ! Maybe the recent laser cut parts have this issue ! We should ask new user to tell if they also have this problem and where they are from !! I don't even know if the cutting is done by the same machine for every UM, if not, maybe some of them have accuracy issues ! That would be interesting to know if other users have this issue, so that we could inform the UM team that this may not be an isolated problem, like I thought it was before your post !
  15. Hello, Don't you think that for your design (or even for the original extruder design) placing a kind of circle flat rubber band around the extruder bolt could be a good idea ? I think it could avoid the marks engraved in the filament while giving even more gripping if using appropriate pressure... Any opinion ?
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