didero

My next attempt will be with this design, inspired by everybody's comments and suggestions, but with the idea of keeping the external look of the object ! I will also increase the fill spacing (previous one was 0.08, new one will be 1), I will decrease the temperature about 5 ° from the original netfabb profil (PLA Ultra so min temp will be 175 and max temp will be 185). The piece will be placed on the bed with 45° rotation to avoid the edges of the object to coincide with the edges of the blue tape. Below is the design: I will print it tomorrow as by now I have to go to work ! Stay tuned !

Hi Joergen, Nice and instructive video ! thanks for that ! I also liked the little "debate" in the video's comments about improving the technology or adapting the design to avoid warping ! There is a lot of tracks to follow to get better results, you gave me some more ! I specially made a note of your remarks about : - the edge of the tape coinciding with the edges of my object - Rotate the object by 45° - make horizontal holes instead of vertical ones Others options are also interresting, but I would try the easiest ones first ! Have a good day ! Didier.

I came back with this new attempt using a modification like Daid suggested ! It's better, but it's not perfect ! As cyclone said, I should have another try with less density ! The thing is to find a good compromise between solidity and warping free structure ! Below is a photo (upside down)of the model with modifications suggested by Daid (by adding holes in the base structure): Ultimaker 2 Go + Ultimaker 2 Extended Press kit.zip Now a comparison with the previous print : Ultimaker Logo.eps Ultimaker Logo.zip If you are still interrested with those test, I will post my next attempt ! Didier.

Thank you Owen and Daid for your suggestions ! I will try the solution given by Daid ! I also think that I could make a thiner base than the original 0.5 cm height as each layer add his own strengh to the previous one causing more and more warping ! I will let you know ! Didier

Ok Daid ! so you confirm that shape matters ! How much plastic was used for the big octopus ? The squared shapes I tried to print was for a friend that make models for architects, he asked me to try if it's possible to make what he calls a "ground-plane" that could help him in his work (and then considering to build/buy his own machine). It seems like that kind of shape would generate too much warping !

Sure it's possible to have great result without a heated bed (I saw a lot of wonderful print with basic UM ), but If a solution exist that could make thing a little easier for new users (with less frustation also), I think it's a good thing ! I will have a look at the DIY heated bed you mentioned ! thanks for the information !

Thanks Owen for your comment ! I'm glad if I can contribute even at a little level ( I've been using my UM for about one month and a half, so I'm still quite inexperienced) I used the netfabb profil (PLA high 3a ultra quality filled object). When I checked the temperature after the M109 it is set to 190 (wich is quite low comparing to the temperature I used in RepG(220°) before I switched to Netfabb ) I'm quite sure the shape of the object as an effect ! Would I had that much warping with a cylinder ? One of my very first print with netfabb was the famous YODA where no wraping at all occured ! Owen, what was the shape you printed during your own experiment ? By the way, regarding the different profils in netfabb (standard , high, ultra + [VASE, Filled, Hollow], ect..) Is there a place where they are discribed ( what profil is the best for what purpose and how the machine will behave using a profil or another) ? advantages and disadvantages ?

That's PLA ! I heard about a heated bed ! Does that exist for the UM ? What are all the advantages of heated bed ?

Against all odds, the print at half the speed came very badly ! You can compare the different attempts in the photo below. For information the print are a square about 5cmX5cmx0.5cm (the 1rst and the 2nd print have others stuff on top, but I don't think these stuff had an effect on the result) So what can we conclude regarding that result ? - It seems that decreasing the speed has unexpectedly made the warping worse !?! (3rd object) - decreasing the temperature had a modest impact (should I try even lower?) (2nd object) - I'm quite lost ! What do you think ?

Hello, So I had another try with thiner layer, (I used for that, PLA Ultra profile in Netfabb). I also decreased the temperature for about 20° in RepG (however, I'm not sure whether it's RepG that set the temperature up, or if the temperature is defined in the Netfabb generated GCode). Well, below is a photo of the result: Regarding what Daid said about the first layer that need to really be stuck to the bed, I think that in my case I could exclude this factor as a possible cause, because as you can see in the object's angle, the blue tape is well stuck to the first layer, the blue tape is following the object's warping, remaining stuck to the object when the warping began, while it is unstuck from the platform (the strengh of the warping seems stronger than the ability of the tape to remains stuck to the bed!) It's not very obvious on the photo, but the warping is less strong than in the previous print ! My next try (currently being printed on my UM) will be using the same profil, but with speed being decreased to 50% (with real time control) during the first layers. Stay tuned !

Hi Daid, Well I have built the firmware yesterday ! So because you said that there was a bug yesterday, I gave it a try today, and this time it worked perfectly ! Thanks for your efficient help ! Didier.

Thanks Owen for your reply ! It make sens that plastic shrinks when cooling ! But since I never read anything about that I though it wasn't so common ! I switched to marlin and netfabb a few days ago, and as you said the speed has certainly a role in that, because I never saw that happening when I used the basic firmware (which print at low speed)! I would like to follow your advice, but at this time I don't know yet how to print some layer at a certain speed and the others at another one. I have still a lot thing to learn !!! Didier.

Hello everyone! I recently noticed some strange behavior with the plastic that I can't explain ! During the print, after that a few layers have been printed, the corner of my object became to curve and to unstick from the bed ! However, the print can continue and finish the object quite well (except that problem at the base of the object) . These photos will explain this issue better than me : Does someone have experienced the same thing ? Does someone know what's going on here ? Thanks in adance for any help ! Best regards, Didier

Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tool ! You're seem to be a great contributor ! I'll try to use the firmware I got from your tool (I used Marlin experimental build3 by Bernhard Kubicek so far !) Thanks again ! Didier.

Hello again Daid ! So if I understood you well, the M92 E14 may be needed for some users and not for some others ? Have you an idea about what it is depending on (Ultimaker revision for instance) ? (Mine is Rev 3, I print with the last netfabb for Ultimaker software and last update of ReplicatorG, and my Ultimaker is runing under marlin firmware ) ! There is so much skills and knowledge to get in order to become a "good printer" and I'm quite at the beginning of this process. I already have some success I'm happy with, while some others attempts failed mysteriously ! I'm trying to get better amount of good results ! Hoping I'm not boring with my questions ! Didier

Thank you Daid for your quick and precise answer ! I'm going to try this and I will compare the result to my first(and only) print with netfab original Gcode header ! (My first print : "Yoda", went out pretty good with the original GCode header, but I think the issue may occur more or less depending on the design of the object) Have a nice day ! Didier

Another question ! When I get to the GCode Header, I can see that there are already some lines in there : M106 M109 Should I remove these lines and replace them by : M92 E14 Or should I insert these lines before or after the existing lines ? Thanks in advance for any help ! Didier

Hi everyone ! Could you tell me what this "M92 E14" code is for and what does it mean ? I'm quite new in 3d printing and switched very recently to Netfabb ! Thanks for any reply ! Didier

Hi everyone ! To conclued this post, I glued the bearing with the sliding blocks and had my first test of the machine using replicatorG (not real print test but endswitch test using the control panel, it seems working fine so far ! Thanks to those who helped in this post! Best Regards to all Didero

Hi again Daid, Thanks for this information, mine were easy to insert into the blocks (they would even fall out if I had not placed some tape around the blocks when I had to manipulate them). So the conclusion is that the blocks holes are a bit larger than they should be, and as you have said previously a little glue would probably fix this ! Have a great day !

Hello Ddurant, Yes I assume this is due to the photo angle, the belt is correctly placed on the pulley !

Hello Daid and thanks for your reply, Yes actually it needs some force to move the head (less if I disconnect the motor, but still too much I gess). I was also thinking about adding some glue to best assiociate the bushing with the block but I'm surprised because as this is not mentioned in the documentation, it sounds like nobody experienced that problem before while I have this issue not with one bushing but with all the four ones. It seems that I definitly have a problem with the block (however they look perfectly parallel, I will double check). I'll try some glue ! And I will post a feedback once the assembly is finished ! To be continued !!!

Thanks Owen for your reply! I attached a photo trying to explain what's happens here (not a good quality but my mobile is all I have to take pictures). Ultimaker Original+ Press Kit.zip Hoping this would help to understand my problem. Thanks again! Didero

Hello everyone ! I''m almost done with the assembly of my ultimaker kit but something seems to be wrong. Let me explain myself: The bushing (the four ones made of brass I guess) are moving out the 4 blocks where they are inserted in (one on each Y and X axis) when I try to move the extruder head by hand ! Could it be a problem ? Does anyone experienced the same issue ? Thanks in advance for any help !