kempton

Hi there, I am experiencing a hardware related problem with the SD card reader on the Ultimaker 2. When inserting the SD card in the reader, it does not "click" in. Rather, it pushed slightly back by the small spring. A temporary solution is to tape the card so that the ultimaker is able to read. I am looking for a more permanent solution than this. You may ask why this happened. The answer is that the printer is used by a bunch of unruly design students who thought it best to forcefully pull the card from the machine. Any suggestions for a more permanent solution?

I am currently involved in a design-research project investigating co-design/co-production with Additive Manufacturing / 3D-printing. I would like to find examples of online self-services for manipulating 3D objects that are to be 3D-printed. One classic example of this would be the thingiverse.com customiser. Also, a quick search on google gave me this site: http://kwamb.io/. So what do i mean about self-services? I am thinking of a web-based interfaces which allows you to drag/click/slide/manipulate 3D objects that are specifically made to be 3D printed. They may be already 'designed' objects, or the interface may allow you to generate shape. Do any of you here have some examples? Since I am trying to create an overview of what is out there, I would appreciate both good and bad examples! Regards, William

Looks great. Cat in ultimaker 2:58 on kickstarter video. awesome..

Any plan to make it work again, or should i start thinking about doing it the hard way?

which would be "solid infill top" set to false and 0% fill?

Attempts to adjust only the bottom thickness does not seem to be possible in full settings. I only see the top / bottom adjustment. I know the option in quickprint which makes it possible, but i want to do additional tweaking. Any advices?

Really hoping the Netfabb 4.9 will fix this issue with a beautiful "retraction" mode. The fatal problem here is that if you have 1 single small lump on the fluff support, it just increases in size, eventually dragging with it a whole wall. I did actually manage to make a temporary VERY MANUAL fix, simply using my ninja-skills to place a piece of blue tape over the fluff support, to seal off the hairy structure. The other temporary (i hope) solution is making a physical 0.5mm wall in my 3D program to act as a "core" where the support structure is supposed to be. It works for now. (requiring some work to cut it off the actual printed part). When will we get the nettfabb 4.9? finding myself checking for its release several times a day, (as well as the mysterious "interesting feature" the ultimaker guys mentioned on the ultimaker blog). - William

In this thread there should also be a mention of Daid's Build-Me-Marlin: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ From Daid: A tool to help you build every type of Marlin you want. Packed up in an easy installable way. The zip version comes with "avrdude" and a batch file for windows. You don't need anything else to install the firmware. It's building my own branch of Marlin, https://github.com/daid/Marlin which is up to date with the ErikZalm version, with a few build fixes I encountered. It caches build, so if you choose the same options it's instant ready for download.

I have been using the christmas-beta of netfabb for a while now. Its making some pretty good slices, especially in terms of reducing the stringing. (also using the latest marlin FW from Daid). However, i never seem to be able to get a proper support structure. Everytime I try, the support structure starts loosening up from the blue tape. I have done trials on the different kinds of support; weak fluff support, fluff support and strong fluff support, but it dosn't seem to make a big difference. After analyzing the prints, i have come to the conclusion that the nozzle is touching the printed PLA when it quickly goes back to the startpoint to make a new layer. Actually, quite often i can hear the crunching sound of hot nozzle PLA fluff support. (which is quite horrifying when 4 hours into print). Any advice?

you kinda look like a combination of Arnold himself and a frozen Han Solo. Pretty cool. Gonna try this myself!

So, I've been printing non-stop since i got my printer in mid-january. (At the moment printing out the negative molds to make silicone products, blogpost awaiting.. ) During the night i usually wake up a couple of times to check on it, but when i go out i usually get some friends to watch it now and then over skype. Yes i am paranoid, and even though i have not had any problems with it so far, it is not exactly FCC approved, and i cannot trust it to manage itself while i am away for 12hours. So i want some way of remote controlling it. I plan to find some kind of webcam app, where i can check up on it on my mobile, but how to turn it of if it really goes bad. I take an hour train everyday, and the room has wooden walls. Go figure... So tell me about your setup. Do you have a spotter? do you always plan to be close to it when its running? Do you have some kind of app? - Kempton

I came from manually cutting pieces of plastic foam with a bandsaw and sanding it down with paper, to THIS! Now i can go and have a beer, watch some tv and sleep while the ultimaker does it for me. (trusting that the machine does not burn down my girlfriend's apartment)

Ok, went through some posts in the "Marlin" category, and installed the latest Marlin. This was the issue. Now it works. Workin' smoothly at 200%. Whats the speed record around here?

Using Marlin v2. Tried with v3 on RepG but it wont update the firmware. (Neither did compiling it from arduino program itself) So, just put on another print, tried writing in M220 S200 first, then again after the print started, but does not seem to make difference. - william

Tried writing "M220 S70" in the interface on the right column, but nothing happened while it was working. Is it supposed to? So, I'll write it in the gcode, but where do i put it? Posting the first part of my gcode here: M106M109 G21G90G28G92 X0.0000 Y0.0000 Z0.0000 E0.0000G1 E0.0000M107G1 X0.0000 Y200.0000 Z0.0000 F10800.0000 G1 X0.0000 Y200.0000 Z4.9800 F1200.0000 G1 X0.0000 Y200.0000 Z5.0000 F1200.0000 M109 S185.0000G1 X0.0000 Y200.0000 Z9.9800 F1200.0000 G1 X0.0000 Y200.0000 Z10.0000 F1200.0000 M109 S190.0000(begin region 1)M106(begin layer 1 at 0.040)G1 X92.2800 Y95.0500 Z10.0000 F10500.0000 E0.0000 G1 X93.7245 Y93.4073 Z10.0000 F10500.0000 E0.0000

So, i'll convince my girlfriend that its not so bad, that its almost totally safe, and that the noise is not annoying at all, while pointing at the smoke detector directly over it. Cool. Ok, so downloaded Printrun (a.k.a. pronter? is that the same?) for my mac, and trying out a simple circular shape. Is there any way of speeding it up as it works, or do i have to start it over again? - William

So, I got my Ultimaker last tuesday, got it locked and loaded. Found a setting pretty quick, using Netfabb (ultra setting) + Merlin v2 + RepG for printing, as Netfabb does not connect to the Ultimaker. I am a sucker for high quality prints, and currently working on making a master for a bottle I am later going to cast in silicone. This video( ) shows the speed im using, painfully slow, I KNOW, but i don't quite know, and don't quite dare to speed it up. The print on the video has been going on for 1h, gaining 8mm in height. The final bottle is a good 140mm, which will take a good 17h (!!!) to complete. WOW! I will probably slice it in two and later re-assemble it, but still, its a long time. Is this really safe? I gotta sleep at some point, and i don't want it to overheat and start burning up, with me next to it. How long the other Ultimakerists using for prints? I presume some of you let it stay overnight. What is the WORST CASE SCENARIO? Regards, William