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catohagen

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Everything posted by catohagen

  1. Yes, I tried with a current project, all the parts dont fit on one buildplate, so I got to try adding buildplates and this was pretty neat But I wish when saving the project, it maintains the buildplates as they are set up, when I save a project with 3 buildplates, and quit Cura, when I open the project again, only 1 buildplate is loaded, the other models and the other buildplates holding them are gone.
  2. Only point I can think of is bigger print volume, a ~300x300mm Ultimaker3 It will fit more markets (prosthetics,prototypes,design) with the good features of the um3. All the features listed in this thread is only adding more cost, without adding more innovation to the printing process itself, its still squishing out hot plastic through a 0.4mm hole in a nozzle. What about a hotend/nozzle with a mechanically variable hole size Print from 0.25-1.0mm from the same nozzle. Like those twist pens, twist the pen clockvise to widen the nozzle, and counterclockvise to narrow the nozzle size. Imagine printing a "vase" or hollow object with 1.5mm wall, with your standard 0.4 nozzle, you get an outer wall and innerwall and you have 0.7mm left between. This twist nozzle will just readjust itself to 0.7mm and print the last wall Or it could adjust itself to 0.5 from the beginning. That would be neat.
  3. OK, removing the old 3.1 config folder worked
  4. Ah, thank you....I'll retry later
  5. I'm also having issues with Cura 3.1 Using my UM2 GO fine with 3.1 beta but now I get some weirdness when I change infill settings, I change it to 100% and it changes it back automatically to what it was before. Video : Is it a bug or developers added A.I ?
  6. This is a nice progress Just wondering, what logic is used to determine what layer height to use?
  7. Should be easy, you can edit the gcode file in a texteditor and just remove the lines for the raft. In the gcode, the raft layers are counted as negative layers and first layer of the actual part is layer 0. So keep the initial startup gcode to heat up nozzle and home, and remove all the lines until Layer 0, you will be able to verify that its printing above the raft by looking at the Z height, it will be maybe Z1.6 or Z1.8 or whatever your raft thickness are.
  8. Both my UMO and UM2 Go uses 3DSolex hotends and nozzles, check out their website and read on the parts they offer, their nozzles might have better heat transfer when mathced with their heaterblock, also their nozzles splits the filament in the beginning of the heating process and its claimed its melting the plastic faster and more evenly.
  9. I am only really interested in the UM3 Cores if someone manages to make a UM3 print head that can attach to the UM2+. Are there other compatible aftermarket hot ends that are as good as the UM2+ one? I'm assuming this is what he means, when the UM3 design files will be available, people will modify the designs and enable mounting UM3 head on UM2's and UMO's. There are already people who have done this on UM2's but out of respect for Ultimaker hold off releasing the files until the design files are officially released.
  10. this looks so terrible it hurts, there must be lots of wrongs here....aside from the circles, do you get normal looking prints with other parts ? Your slicer is cura ? what settings was used on the above print ?
  11. If they are bendt since assembly you could try and contact your reseller and see if they can send you new ones. If you need to buy new ones, also most resellers can get you new ones, the prices I got from my reseller was slighty higher than the prices I got from IGUS, so I ordered new ones from IGUS, also from IGUS you need to tell them the length. That suited me very good, as I'm running direct drive on my Ultimaker and I ordered 16mm longer ones, so they stick out and motors connect. The IGUS ones are found here : http://www.igus.eu/product/?artnr=SWMH-08 their site is a bit difficult to navigate, but the rods are called SWMH-08 drylin® accessories, steel shafts 1.1213 hard-chromed Be sure to go for normal steel shafts, as stainless steel ones are many times more expensive
  12. I'm pretty sure the ironing is applied to every flat surface you can see the thinner neosanding lines on both these flat surfaces on the same part
  13. I have soon a functional MPCNC at home with a ~800*800mm work area. When I have it all setup, I wouldn't mind milling frames for free, so the cost would only be the material and shipping. But I don't know if this machine can mill 2mm steel plates, but plywood and aluminium shouldn't be a problem. I would be 'pay' enough to be able to build a machine like this myself
  14. I think my brain just shortcutted, looks amazing I think Ultimaker should hire Gudo !
  15. Omg how cool when can we ordinary people buy um3 heads ?
  16. they are (noctua) 12v fans , same voltage as the orginal fans. I have arranged with an inhouse electronics engineer at work, he will replace the smd transistor, I just need to unplug the um board and bring it, so crossing fingers everything works out
  17. Short joy for me atleast Major overnight fail, the UM GO have caught the part, glassbed was pushed over to the side, fan shroud ripped off (a printed one), one of the 30mm fans was melted into the hotend and ofcourse hinders the fan to spin. After careful cleanup, everything seems ok....but not the 'fancontroller'. I hooked up my 40mm fans from the UMO and they only spin on 100%, does this mean the 'darlington' transistor is blown ? Is it replaceable ? The joy must resume
  18. Video of Cura 2.7 Neosanding the surface around the Cura logo, sanding feedrate is 100mm/s
  19. Oh never mind, the ironing options for feed, acceleration and jerk must be also enabled in the "Speed" settings
  20. I see in : C:\Program Files\Cura 2.7\resources\definitions\fdmprinter.def.json Line 2109: "speed_ironing": Line 2111: "label": "Ironing Speed", Line 2120: "enabled": "ironing_enabled", Line 2465: "acceleration_ironing": Line 2467: "label": "Ironing Acceleration", Line 2468: "description": "The acceleration with which ironing is performed.", Line 2476: "enabled": "resolveOrValue('acceleration_enabled') and ironing_enabled", Line 2767: "jerk_ironing": Line 2769: "label": "Ironing Jerk", Line 2770: "description": "The maximum instantaneous velocity change while performing ironing.", Line 2777: "enabled": "resolveOrValue('jerk_enabled') and ironing_enabled", Line 5652: "ironing_enabled": Line 5654: "label": "Enable Ironing", Line 5661: "ironing_pattern": Line 5663: "label": "Ironing Pattern", Line 5664: "description": "The pattern to use for ironing top surfaces.", Line 5672: "enabled": "ironing_enabled", Line 5676: "ironing_line_spacing": Line 5678: "label": "Ironing Line Spacing", Line 5679: "description": "The distance between the lines of ironing.", Line 5685: "enabled": "ironing_enabled", Line 5689: "ironing_flow": Line 5691: "label": "Ironing Flow", Line 5692: "description": "The amount of material, relative to a normal skin line, to extrude during ironing. Keeping the nozzle filled helps filling some of the crevices of the top surface, but too much results in overextrusion and blips on the side of the surface.", Line 5698: "enabled": "ironing_enabled", Line 5702: "ironing_inset": Line 5704: "label": "Ironing Inset", Line 5705: "description": "A distance to keep from the edges of the model. Ironing all the way to the edge of the mesh may result in a jagged edge on your print.", Line 5712: "enabled": "ironing_enabled", so there is planned settings for ironing, but they are not showing up here atleast...
  21. I just adopted a UM2GO from Ebay, I can't believe why I haven't considered this before, it's a beast. As Labern mentions, 90% of my prints covers 20% of my UMO's buildplate, and most of it are mechanical parts and prototypes that customers need to see, so they need to be correct and preferably, look nice. I've already upgraded to heated bed from 3D Solex and the mandatory Bondtech extruder. Some pics : Installed Bondtech extruder, um2go size compared to a 2.2Kg spool is ridiculous The heated bed installed. Flir thermal images of the heat from the heated bed. (yes, thats printing a fidget spinner )
  22. I did the same on my UMO (shorted the fan wires) and the BD679 blew. I ordered a few and carefully soldered on the replacement, everything is perfectly working ever since. For replacement board, you can buy a new from a reseller but they are expensive. I think Neotko have upgraded his UMO with the duet wifi board, of course it's not OEM any longer but I think it's a cheaper and more advanced board (built in wifi, 32bit CPU, web interface, and your step motors are dead silent when it's printing)
  23. I have completed the head transplant, and my wooden UMO now have this tiny(omg, its tiny) UM2 head The items i have 1 UM2 head (off Ebay, from China) 1 3D Solex Matchless V3 Block 1 3D Solex 40W Heater UM2/+ 1 3D Solex Pt100 Temp Sensor 1 3D Solex High Temperature PTFE upgrade 1 E3D PT100 Amplifier board I still have to find a solution to the 25x25mm 5V head cooling fan, but for now, I'm using the 24v heater fan off an E3D v6 kit I bought, I connected it to the heated bed 24V terminal, and to my surprise, it starts in cycles together with the heated bed The fan is really noisy, so I have to change it sooner than later. Everything was plug and play, I had to improvise with the cable from the E3D amplifier board to the Ultimaker 1.5.7 controller board, a little soldering. And as Amedee mentions in this thread, on the 1.5.7 double validate where the SIG and GND pins are, the RepRap wiki page is wrong (or rather its using the 1.5.3 image on the 1.5.7 page) Firmware was updated for the PT100 with Amedee firmware (https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental/ ), couldn't be easier. Thanks to the excellent people here for the raw knowledge of Ultimakers. FLIR image shows way less heat traveling upwards, compared to the UMO head.
  24. Of course I am right But I have no merrit, it's written on the board (I saw that when I installed the HBK) There are a couple of errors on the reprap wiki, they mainly copy/pasted between revisions, not noticing the changes... Its even Erik de Bruijn who wrote in the wiki Well, now everything seems to work, UM2 head is on. Thank you again
  25. well, connected the pt100 and uploaded new firmware, nozzle temp reads 178 degrees...wierd..... ok, you where right, gnd and sig are swapped
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