catohagen

I have the 1.5.7 board (just flipped umo over) but according to http://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker%27s_v1.5.7_PCB the pins are equal to your picture, 5V is in the middle, and SIG is in the right and GND to the left...

ah, thank you ....and just enable pt100 in configuration.h, and compile ? no pins.h fiddeling ?

I'm just about to do this, I was just reading about the PT100 amplifier board and this signal pin that needs to go somewhere...just haven't figured out where...and someone mentioned 4.7 pull-up resistor........ But still reading... @amedee, on UMO(not +) is it needed to edit pins.h in Marlin and use an spare pin ? where do I connect this signal port from the PT100 amp board ?

Yeah, lots of advantages in printing this flat, strenght and visual vise.

Good read, I will build this as soon as its released and as fast as I have time. I looked quick on ebay, its not called key steel, but just stainless square bar http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL-SQUARE-BAR-ROD-10x10mm-8x8mm-6x6mm-4x4mm-3x3mm-in-many-Lengths-/122221236270?var=&hash=item1c74f4102e:m:mY31TxMyAuiiDbWodBcQuyg Its supplied in 400 and 500mm lengths in 4x4mm as long as its pretty straight, would it work ?

I recieved the 3DSolex parts + the E3D amp board.. now just have to wait for the UM2 head to arrive. Just fiddling with the parts here, I push the heater in the block and PT100 sensor in the block.....and thats it ? I can just easily pull them out again I expected some mechanical fastening would be required....is it the same in Olsson blocks ? I also bought the new 3DSolex "ICE" nozzle.....it have some chemical surface treatment so no filament will stick to it, ...currently printing some Ngen with it, and Ngen usally sticks everywhere....Its a steel nozzle, but I print slow anyway....

If you consider the Lulzbot, you should also look at the Orginal Prusa MK2, from the user reviews the printquality are practical the same as Ultimaker, but the price is much lower than both the Lulzbot and Ultimaker, its just the popularity have driven the deliverytime crazy high, you can get 3 Prusa printers for the price of 1 Lulzbot.

Ah, ok...the printhead itself need a fan. I have a E3D v6 complete kit that never been used, there is a 30mm 24v fan there, maybe that one will fit ?

Ah, crap...well, i jumped on too fast.. So I bought real expensive alu parts... ok, but I use aluparts and scews and some plastic parts from this head, and replace Ptfe coupler and heaterblock(with 3Dsolex Steel Coupler V2+ptfe and Matchless block + heater) The 5V fans I dont understand, I was under the impression I could just use the dual fan I have now (im using your Symmetric Dual Fans design) I just hope the alu parts are of ok quality then. With my luck the ship from china takes 2 months to get here too Thanks for heads up and all the help

Thanks amedee, yes its a UMO (not +) I'll go for the PT100 then with the amp board. The thermocouple have been inserted and removed so many times, I'm surprised it still works, I'll keep it in the block as a reserve part Then I guess its just loading up your firmware builder and readjust for PT100. For heater, as I have the UMO and heated bed upgrade, can I use 40W heater ? I havent looked up what wattage the orginal heater is..

Im using 3Dsolex and E3D nozzles on my UMO, the threads are the same (M6) its just the nozzletip are shorter so you need to adjust your bed up. As Neotko mentions, you need to print a new fancap, by adjusting the bed height, the standard fan will touch the parts you are printing But I've printed with 0.4,0.6,0.8,1.0 and 1.2mm with these nozzles and its awesome

I just bought this : http://www.ebay.com/itm/222200723758?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Aside from the modifications I can print myself (i think I need to print a different top part) what hardware do I need thats recommended (heater,temp sensor/PT100) ? If PT100, do I need the E3D amp board http://e3d-online.com/PT100-Amplifier-Board ? If this gives more accurate temperature readings, what happens without this ? I also want to put a 3Dsolex Matchless block on there but that should be a drop-in replacement instead of this probably chinese olsson block clone.

If you dont care about the technology and just want to print good mechanical parts, go for the UM2. If you want to learn and understand how these printers work + save some money on building it yourself, UMO Both printers will give good prints, I love my UMO and dont regret going the longer way of building it and upgrading it slowly and learn the tech behind it.

Very nice trick Its great we have good thinkerers around in this community, I subscribe to a few youtubers but havent learnt anything from them, these days they just unbox free printers or print a model off (hairy lion )thingiverse

I did that and it's working so far: two 5-hour prints at 75C with no errors so far. After soldering some globby-looking joints and then flipping the heat bed upside down for installation, I'm not feeling so confident. The wires are not exactly relaxed. When you mount the bed again and screw on the cable clip onto the cable, just make sure the cable is locked in place. I bent the powercables and temp sensor cables in an appropiate radius towards the cable clip, added some electrical tape around the cable where the cable clip sits...so the cable is locked in place. When the heated bed cable is locked in place, the seperate cables should not get any pull or strain, i bet you could even apply some epoxy or superclue around the cables where the solder points are, just for extra strength.

I just had the same problem, first I resoldered the connector,didnt last long, then I soldered new wires from the heat sensor to the connector, lasted about a week before temp errors. After desoldering and removing the whole connector and soldered all the wires directly on the pcb tracks its been flawless since. I see most of the heated beds for ultimaker on ebay have the wires directly soldered onto the pcb too, you should give it a try

Maybe a stupid question, but how does the squared long rod glide through the extruder part when the head moves in XY ? will it wear down over time ?

This sounds wrong, the nozzle should not tear off the previous layer when it travels to next layer, if the first layer is printed on Z0.3, it stays on this height until its finished, then the bed is lowered to the next layer and printhead should be in air, nozzle should be at Z0.5 (if layerheight is 0.2) so if the nozzle is tearing off the print, something with the first layer is wrong, you need to check if the layer have warped or curled. If nothing is wrong with the first layer, you should provide your Simplify3D settings as Neotko suggested.

Its not a requirement to lower the printbed while printhead to rapid moves. If I remember correctly, Simplify3D sets 1st layerheight based off the general layerheight, so if you check Simplify3D what % first layer is set on, you should get the idea if nozzle is too close to the bed. If you are printing with layerheight of 0.2 and firstlayer % is 50%, then firstlayer is printed with layerheight of 0.1, and if bed is not 100% level then nozzle might come too close. Cura usally have first layerheight of 0.3

Hi, This is the heated pcb only, you need more parts, powersupply,the actual aluminium bed, linear bearings, leveling scews,springs,glass plate, glass clips, etc There are threads here with people doing unofficial heated bed upgrades, try search. On another note, I have the official heated bed kit, and lot of these kits have problems, the connections on the pcb are bad and lots of people get temperature problems. I did resolder the pcb and the connector just to have it fail again after a few weeks, I ended up doing like its done on the pcb you found on ebay, direct solder the wires to the pcb, so I would atleast recommend this heated bed pcb, the rest you need to DIY or buy more unofficial clone parts. example, the aluminium bed : http://www.robotdigg.com/product/1015/UM2-aluminum-machined-base-plate

Results look amazing, are there any plans to release the BOM and 3D models for this ? Would love to try this setup myself Its going to be worth it just on how cool it looks alone heh

Updated firmware with https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/experimental and its perfect! Thank you Amedee I'm using Neotko's homing at bottom of bed modification. Also tried the software bed levering, very cool AND finally I have a nice *beep* instead of that hideous stock beep !!11 I did an PID autotune....and was wondering would it make sense to be able to build a firmware and you could set the PID values in the online builder ? Last week i got lots and lots of MAX TEMP errors on bed (UMO HB upgrade kit) and I ended up removing the whole crappy connector and solder the wires for the sensor and power for bed directly on the bed. But now the room temperature readings are different....if I turn on printer its shows 24° on hotend and 20° on bed....maybe if my soldering have altered the effect on the sensor...also I need to use hotter bed to get stuff to stick...will autotune PID fix this difference or is that another matter (temp difference) ?

I was going to try a build, but I dont see the options shown here at https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ ?

I've worked as an CNC operator for 13 years, and when you do threads for a living I know for many types of threads you need to buy the books (afaik). The metric and imperial ones you can find many pdf's online to get the tolerances correct (for metal threads) and they are difficult to read and understand. Basic principle for threads are to subtract/add the given tolerance off the thread dimention. So an M3 thread the bolt is allowed to be between 2,980 - 2,874mm The bottom of the thread is allowed to be between 2,367 - 2,256mm To get the thread approved according to the standard you need to measure the flank with a ISO calibrated gauge. The flank is measured between the top of the thread to the bottom of the thread, an M3 bolt is allowed to be between 2,655 - 2,580mm on the flank. Then you have the M3 nut, with its own values to get tolerances correct. There are Coarse and Fine variants of the same thread, UN threads have 2A,3A spesific tolerances of the same thread, then you have TPI and pitch. The Nut needs to have a chamfered edge around the same height as the pitch to easy entry for the bolt, bolt needs a chamfered edge too, some or most do 45° chamfer because its faster do, but it should be same angle as the thread profile (60° for metric,55° for BSP) Threads is a mess and pain in the ass to do I ended up with writing my own plugins for work. I listed all the thread tolerances in a excel sheet and the plugin got the thread data from there, so in my CAM program (Gibbscam) the plugin generated the 3D model and toolpath data.

success, printed this in Colorfabb XT with the sock on the nozzle right after the print, both the Colorfabb XT and Ngen droops alot so its always a mess on the nozzle, I hope this will prevent this