catohagen

from : https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/tree/master/1234_Bottom_Panel_(x1) and https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1006_Top_Panel you can see that holes for guide shafts are both ø12mm and they are 160mm apart (center to center) on both UMO and UM2 (loaded up the STEP files to measure) People seems to have fitted UM2 heated beds to UMO before : https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5843-cheap-and-beautiful-um2-heat-bed-available-for-um1 so if you find a cheap kit from ebay, should probably work fine

Just finished this in Colorfabb Ngen, settings might not be correct for Ngen but I adjusted atleast temperatures to match how I print Ngen. Surface difference is clearly visible, neosanding is more even and matte surface

insanely cool idea, this should definitely be added to Cura as an advanced feature if possible S3S needs competition Im also hoping to see adaptive layerheights someday in slicers. This have been done in cnc machining software for years, where you dont type in z step amount for contour milling, you type in max allowed step and software adapts cuts to what angle its milling. (imagine printing a 50mm ball, in the middle where the diameter is bigger a 0.2 layerheight is fine, but at the top it will look coarse and ugly)

would be better to use an 'L' shaped aluminium profile, 10x10mm with 1-1.5 mm thickness should stiffen enough, i would guess just gluing it with strong epoxy glue or similar would be enough to stop the vibrations.

This is awesome, been printing with this solution now and its way better. And since I compiled the firmware myself, I enabled babystepping aswell, so when the buildplate is level there is no need to touch the screws, just babystep the nozzle to get good first layer when the skirt is printing. Theres time to prepare when the print starts, as the time when bed is homing, i clean the nozzle, checks if filament is primed, check the bed surface, now there is room to inspect everything If it matters, now the leadscrew gets equally 'worn' on the whole length instead of 90% wear happends on the top of the leadscrew. Plus, I used the bottom of machine to store stuff but it looks messy, now its much cleaner since te bed always moves down. Question, I tried a few times to adjust the buzzer on the Ulticontroller, the orginal Marlin beep is much nicer, do anyone know where in the source files you edit the buzzer ? I edited Configuration.h and found the LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ and changed it to 2000 and 3000 and 4000 but the sound when pressing the knob is still the same.

I was wondering if anyone have a E3D hotend can measure the heater block and maybe these silicone socks fits the UMO heaterblock http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/V6-Sock-Kit-3-Pack

I've been printing on blue tape since 2012 and been very happy with adhesion,etc.. When wanted trying Colorfabb XT and HT for stronger functional parts and the tape was useless, i tried Buildtak for XT and it stuck very good, but got warping on huge surface prints, so I got the heated bed upgrade and its like a new printer, the glass surface on parts, nonexistent warping was worth it for me, it its expensive but you get pretty much half a new printer with the kit, new z motor, new leadscrew, metal platform, 3 point leveling. For pla prints only I would maybe just used Buildtak, but printing machine and robot parts in XT with good dimentional accuracy was worth it.

Worked fine now, thx

Sure will do, but I use Amedee branch https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified'>https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified'>https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified'>https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified Tomorrow I upload it. To paste the content into the file there's 3 parts of the file. Definitions where the new function names are set, menus, and the new functions. Thx,....i downloaded the Amedee sources from https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UMO_Unified and couldn\t figure out where to put stuff in ultralcd.cpp

Nice job Question, in ultralcd.cpp....you just paste your lines to the end of file, or it needs to be pasted in the right place ? If so, could you maybe paste your finished ultralcd.cpp to http://pastebin.com

I've been printing in XT for a couple of weeks now, and what I ended up with is 250-255 degrees and no fans at all, pieces end up much prettier. Also I would print that model with no support and atleast 0.2mm layerheight, parts seems to get stronger with 0.2 layerheight compared to 0.1mm

I took off the heater board from the bed and turned it around and added (more) solder to the 4 points to the connector, seems errors stopped. (Read another post in this forum about badly manufactured heated beds and poor solder points)

Hi, Installed Bondtech extruder today on my UMO.....and its insane Never had prints look this good, so either the orginal extruder never was assembled good enough or this Bondtech is just so much more accurate. Every first layer is picture perfect and PLA prints at lower temps and faster speed. Impressed again with my Ultimaker Ultimaker should make a deal with Bondtech and have it as standard extruder.

Yeah, I found that out....i took the old stepper drivers and put on, and got the servo noise back, but now everything work again

Hi I was about to install a Bondtech extruder to my UMO and got some problems. After removing the orginal extruder, unplugging the cable and plug in the cable for the Bondtech extruder, the extruder motor didnt run. To check if the machine was atleast working, I replugged the orginal extruder and that didnt run either....(machine was working fine before I started) So I figured maybe the stepper driver (silentstepstick) was not working, so I exchanged the extruder chip with the X axis chip, but forgot to check pins, so I placed the chip the wrong way, and now it seems nothing works Even the Ulticontroller doesnt lit up.....so Im wondering if its enough to replace the silentstep sticks or have something been damaged to the mainboard ? Edit If I remove the stepper driver on extruder and X axis, the ulticontroller works again....

After a weekend with fiddling, its the connector to the heatbed thats acting up, i've taken off the heatbed 3-4 times and 'retightened' the screws (when you tighten an already tight screw, you'll start to break the head when the screwdriver loose grip) But after a while the same error happens. For now it last longest then I jam something inbetween the wires sticking out and the wooden base.

Hi, I bought a Heated bed upgrade to my UMO and have been using it for about a week now. Today I started a 4hr print with Colorfabb XT, 255C nozzle and 70C bed....after 1.5 hrs machine 'crashed' meaning the nozzle glued itself to the print because of this alarm and I guess it shut down nozzle heater and bed. Now I cant start the bed, temp is all over the place, 100C-32C-150C-500C-48C-130C like this every 2 secs.. Anyone know if its bed is faulty or have experienced similar ?

On 3DSolex.com it says just faster prints. There are apparently some engineering inside the nozzles (since its patent pending), that enables them to melt filament faster. I didnt get me a 0.4mm matchless nozzle, since I was after >0,6mm, But got a 0,25mm one, i'm currently printing a new lower fanduct with this (0,25mm nozzle, 0,1mm layerheigh, colorfabb pla, 220C and 50mm/s feed)...5hr print, hope it goes well

Hi, got some Matchless nozzles in the mail today, been testing a few hours now, and indeed they fit great and works great on Ultimaker Orginal *thumbs up* At work we print alot of prototype machine parts and speaker parts and rarely there is small details, so I re-printed some parts that was previously printed with the standard 0.4mm nozzle and got great results. Still with 0.2 layerheight with 1.0mm nozzle, parts look good and way faster to print (2.5x) With 0.6mm layerheight on the 1.0mm nozzle the prints stopped looking good and dimensions where off abit, but some adjustments in Cura could maybe help with those issues. I like the 2 hole solution where the filament enters, intuition tells me this helps greatly with softening the material for faster feedrate.

Hi, Is there a better way to duplicate models instead of right clicking and 'duplicate object'....if I need 20 objects its takes 40 clicks with mouse....it would be faster to load the model in old cura, multiply 19 times and save as a new stl....but then I loose 'print one object at a time' feature

Hi, I'm looking for a new hot end pack for my UMO, and after browsing the different dealers to look for someone who offers this pack, i found in Denmark (http://3deksperten.dk/hot-end-pack.html) and in Norway (http://www.3dnordic.no/3d-skrivere-og-tilbehor/hot-end-pack-for-ultimaker-original) but the price difference is huge ?? 420 dkk for hot end pack in denmark vs 695 nok for hot end pack in Norway.....still after currency convertion the difference is wierd ? Isnt there some guidelines for how pricing are done ?

I'm in Norway.. It says '3dSolex Ultimaker 2 Upgrades' on their page so I just assumed they are all for UM2

I think my UMO teflon coupler is worn out, in all the shops I find UM2 teflon couplers but not for UMO... Peek should probably be swapped out too.. Anyone know where to buy these consumables for UMO ?

Hi, Anyone know if the new Matchless nozzles would fit on a Ultimaker Orginal ? Even if the fit isnt 100% due to the chamfered contact area, the possible reduced print times would still make it a valuable upgrade.

Huge thanks for this writeup Installed on X/Y/E on my UMO, aand its fantastic