micha

+1 The rotary fan on mine was loud as hell. I replaced it with a 120mm fan, that is placed directly underneath the drivers and blowing upwards. So far, none of them blew.

And if I would want a spambot, I would print one...

I got. And I am pretty sure, there are plenty other working ones around... :ugeek:

Hi, That's what I was supposed to tell....an element with less than about 0.4mm strength on x/y, is skipped in slicing. At least that happened to me with some objects, can't tell how netfabb 4.9 is.

I noticed, that netfabb tends to skip elements smaller than 0.4mm width. Didn't dig too deep into that, because, that's the nozzle size and did make sense.

nope... you would need to do that somewhere else. But consider a pyramid or a cone... the topside of the cube could be a hard airprint, unless you use support. And if you use support... you are at the same point like before .

In my experience, you will ever have tension due to the difference in cooling from the bottom, to the higher part. If you dont want to use a heated bed, to even out the cooling, the only option is to force the part to stay in shape by spreading out the surface the part sticks on. This will not reduce the tension, but it will reduce warp significantly. If you mill cetrain plastics, as acrylic for example, that hasn't tempered properly, then this tension warps the part like hell, when you take off a few millimeters from the surface. As Daid said, a raft would help... personally I dislike the rafts, as it takes ages to print them and they are a real waste. That's why I prefer the discs in the corners.

Maybe Poser is what might help you. There is a trial available at http://poser.smithmicro.com/ Pricing is quite fair. Cheers, Micha

Try the 10 by 0.2mm discs at the corners, they will hold the piece in place and will avoid that it warps off the tape. IMG_4489.MOV

If its just the circles, I would lay them flat. Don't see a problem here. Regarding stringing, if it's all connected in some way, netfabb(beta) or skeinforge should managage to stay within the solid region... something to be tested, could happen, that the connection between the circles must be greater than 0.5mm. Can't tell, if you can ever achive a string-free printing. All I can say, it's hard to calibrate it to that point .

1. if you manage to get all overhangs within the coral structure out, then its just a matter of cleaning out 1gazillion strings from rapid movements, depending on how good the machine is calibrated. 2. worth a try, in fact i have bee surprised more than one time from the ultimaker airprint capabilities . 3. don't see a problem here. you print with 0.4mm nozzle, whats the diameter of the smalles line, or whats giving you the smalles possible radius. your circles should come out well. All it's a matter how much time you let the machine spend on it. if you put the layerheight to 0.08mm for instance, it's doing an amazing fine job. But there will be no situation, where you don't see the layers.

almost 150€ postage to Australia... ouch. 8€ within Germany. DHL is 40€ up to 5kg to Australia... PM me, if you want to spend that. But I would stand back from PLA45 in Australia... Starts to soften at 45°C :geek: .

Did you try adding 10mm discs to the corner... maybe 0.2mm in height? It's enough, when the edge dives about a third into the disc. Helps me alot against warping and they are easy to be removed afterwards.

1. I made the hole bigger 2. Same here, taped and first print was a decent fan holder from thingiverse...

Lol... I searched them like that as well .

I have the same issue... not a big help for you. It seems that the support structure is not taken into calculation, when the destringing paths are made. There are lots of travels over the support structure to random points all over the place. As soon as there is a little string staying on top of the structure and many travels are made over it, it's a matter of time, when the structure breaks, or gets drawn from the tape.

Follow this one. You might not need to oil the whole platform... a little messy in my opinion. I made a smaller sheet of aluminium foil, with some oil on the back to have it stick at the platform. Its enough to do it in every corner. As soon, as you Z is level and you have taped again. Start the print and grab the Z-Spindle at the lower end, right after the print starts. Turn it a few klicks until you see a little transparent film. Also, I configured netfab to print the bottom with low speed... helps a lot. I also printed a Z-adjuster from thingyverse... but this won't help you until something sticks :twisted: cheers, Micha

The big question is: Where are these sweet Ultimaker branded cardbord boxes, you promise in the ad? :geek: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: Cheers, Micha

I made the same mistake and followed the instructions word by word. The thing is... sometimes it's worth using the own brain. In the instructions, they miss, that you should add some teflon tape to the thread, that goes into the nozzle, as well. (Or I didn't find that part :mrgreen: ) I heated up everything to 200°C, about 10minutes. Reversed the filament until I saw the end in the tube. Unscrewed the four long screws, that hold the big aluminum part, a bit. Unscrewed the nozzle and the brass tube. Burnt my fingers. Held the nozzle with some plyers and heated it with a heatgun and blew the plastic out with compressed air.... about 20times, until it was clean. Same thing with the brass tube, heatgun and a towel... heatgun, towel....10-20times, until the thread was clean. Tested both ends, if they are clean enough to be screwed into the thread. Wrapped both ends with two turns of teflon tape. Screwed the nozzle on. A small screwdriver sticked into the tube, holding within the fragments of filament, that are left in the tube, helps a lot. Screwed the nozzle with the tube through the heaterblock, into the peek. Fine printing. Hope it helps Micha

Well, I went trough all the available kits and ever came back to ultimaker. For me, it was the pictures of the quality the machine produces and that the moving head is kept as light as possible. I didn't regret buying the kit yet. But one got to know, that there is a lot to learn and that you can't do everything with that kind of machine. At least not without serious postprocessing when support is needed. As for heated bed, I will definitely try to make one, as I indeed see a lot of warping, when printing longer filled parts. At least with the supplied PLA. I want to switch to ABS soon and what I read so far, it will become worse with that.

Kinda both. Like everyone that is selling reprap or any other parts... But you have the option how much you do by yourself and what you buy. Get the kit and pay for them doying the work to collect, laser and bundle working components, or dive into the adventure... your choice , all plans are free and opensource. The reason why I said that is, if somethings broken, or wrong, in my experience, you might get nothing from china and I am pretty confident, that you will have support from Ultimakers side. Regarding pricing, well I don't see the advantage in buying from there. I don't argue with anybody about the way he is making his income. Actually trading pays part of my rent as well. I know what fedex means, got a lot from fedex, especially from China. After about week to 10 days you will get a call, asking how to handle the tax. They will do all for you with the customs, as soon as you provide the respective informations. For their service they charge 25€ by the way. Another few days and you can pay in cash, as soon as the fedex guy steps at your door. Regarding tax, sorry, this got lost in translation. Should mean, have fun with customs. Had not read, that they offer fedex. But if it would be the conventional postal service, you would need to pick the package at the customs office... whats a 50km ride in my case. Including a good session, about whats in the package and how to declare it. Seeking for CE stamps and stuff like that... got all that already. In sum, I bought a lot of great stuff from china and they do an awesome job in making stuff at a price nobody in the western world would. I don't see that price here. So it makes no sense, taking the risk of getting outdated, cloned or broken stuff (maybe with the lack of support) and hassle with customs into account. The only thing here is, that they promise instant shippment. The parts I got from Ultimaker were really well done, except the coolers (they suck!), hope the package from China is at least the same quality.

Well, whatever license is behind it, the question is, why pay the same amount of cash to a China vendor? - All sources are way cheaper there - the fastest shippment possible will be 2 weeks until arival - depending on the country you live in, have fun with tax (+19% tax, and about +4% import tax, depending on declaration in germany) - zero support from vendor side The only advantage would maybe saving 4 weeks in lead time.

Thanks, Profile pic -> done . I upgraded to Marlin right after the first tries. The print does not lack smootheness, it's some unneccessary rapid movements to an opposite point, that made it fail a bit. If netfabb would just see, where is the outer and inner shell, so it could be avoided to put the strings on the visible surface. There should be an option just to skip unsupported areas, that would be printed midair, too.... despite that, I just love it. But for now, I need to fix the hot end, it started drooling underneath the aluminum block yesterday and almost ruined the print.

...for making me look awesome! :ugeek: Model taken from fotos with 123d catch, sliced with netfabb and printed in about 5cm height in 4hours with ultrafine settings. Printed with PLA, using printrun. No raft, no support. This is my 5th print or so, still got a lot to learn . The chin went bad and some parts have been printed into the air. No picture can show, how beautiful the print came out. Bare eyes barely can see the printlines. Sad, that I had not enough pictures, to stitch the top of my head properly. But that will be done, as soon as the weather clears up a bit... photoshooting in the snow is difficult to argue with my wife . The pictures show the print right after it finished, untouched and still sticked to the printbed. Cheers, Michael

Touchdown!