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  1. Thanks for the update, it's still on my wish list. Kyle
  2. Any updates on when the kit will be available? Thank you, Kyle
  3. Has anyone tried eliminating oozing by turning the printer upside-down? I've seen one print while suspended from a corner. Off hand i can't think of anything else affected by gravity besides the oozing... I'm thinking get a print started, let it run for the first few layers and then flip it onto a stand (like the spacer I saw at NYMF only higher). Kyle
  4. I have a .25mm nozzle although I haven't tried it yet. Have you tried PVA wood glue on your bed to promote adhesion? I think Richrap posted about it. I've been using it to great success. I have a small glass jar with 1/4 cup water and 1.5 tsp (teaspoons) white glue (plain elmers wood glue) which I mix up. easy-peasy. I apply with a scrap of paper towel. After several applications, you'll need to completely clean your surface as it does build up over time. works great on glass, and was pretty good on kapton over aluminum (heated) as well. I'm inspired to try my .25 nozzle now... thank you. K
  5. Been waiting for this for 6 months now. I will be refreshing the shop.ultimaker.com link at least twice a day till it's up. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU DAID! Kyle EDIT: from what I gather from the MakerFaire, PVA is really hard to use. It is very hygroscopic(sp?) and will become unusable in less than 48 hours out of the bag. I may mock up an enclosure for the reels to reduce moisture transfer... There has also been some posts on the reprap blogs about using ABS as support.. may try that. -K
  6. I've noticed that cura lays down layers separately for faces created from different features, even when they are coplanar. This may actually be a function of the stl generator (I use solidworks). So, try modelling it with separate faces where you'd like it to print. You could also try faces that are not coplanar, but are separated by less than half the layer thickness. I bet the slicer would treat them separately, but the small difference in Z will get rounded out. Kyle
  7. You're on the right track with your list, but one thing i would mention regarding first layer in cura and your having to pry parts off the tape: Both these issues indicate that you may need to spend some time on bed leveling and/or Z home adjustment. When properly adjusted, parts should pop off the tape with very little force. You'll need to use this with a heated bed too so it's not wasted effort. search the forum for the tinfoil / multimeter method of leveling the bed which is the most effective i've found, and install a fine adjustment device on your Z home switch. Cura's first layer thic
  8. I was thinking of a printed ABS ring diffuser with a hose barb on one corner and mounting tabs to fit the long rods. Dual extruder would look like a figure-8 around the nozzles. Maybe add a relay so I could still switch it with the fan pinout. The head would be lighter than a dual fan shroud. Not sure what to print it in when I want to run ABS though. The best method I've used so far to level the bed has been the tinfoil/multimeter trick. I haven't done it in a while, and I think I need to go back to it. I think my bed goes out of whack when I reef on it to unstick parts which of course does
  9. @alaris2- Nothing visually exciting, just big - picture half a cylinder filling the bed. I work for a company that makes pumps for power plants and there was some interest in printing a large copy for trade shows. The 30 hour print was half of a 3/4 cutaway section. The third quarter took 16 hours and the impeller took 14 or so. It's on the back burner for now, but it would be nice to get a paying job for my UM one of these days. Since I'd like to get paying jobs, I'm very interested in improving the reliability of the UM. As such, I've printed and assembled just about every extruder posted
  10. I made one- I like the Mk6 gear, but I don't live in Oz, so I couldn't source the spring listed. I tried several from McMaster-Carr (9657K334 I believe) but I couldn't get it to work without slipping occasionally. I have come to prefer the spring and threaded tension bolt type designs. It's easier to adjust it to just the right tension. Some things I learned: Make sure you print the Filament Compression Arm at 100% fill - there's a lot of force on it. The shaft pops out of the rear bearing easily, and with the spring pressure on it, it will pop the gear out of alignment with the stepper spur.
  11. Yes, that might work. But when you have a good clog and your feeder is capable of a good push, then you might strip the threads. Then there is nothing left that you can do. Now after damaging the end of the bowden tube, we can cut off a short piece and try to continue to print. Speaking from first hand experience, threading the bowden works. I haven't had a plug mid-print since I turned the end to 6mm, threaded it M6, and threaded it into the PEEK part. The only reason it's not more popular is because it requires more than hardware store tooling. You can't really thread it M6 without turning i
  12. My first guess is that the PCB is too flexible, and possibly not flat enough.
  13. @approx - Nice Yoda! The chin and earlobes look pretty good, did you set a bridge % or use the default cura 100%? Also, which extruder design are you using with the mk6 gear, tlalexander's wade derivative? Kyle
  14. Also interested in trying this design, downloading the files now. I recently tried this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25490 and put too much force on it and broke the pin thru the bearing. Even at 100% fill pla is too brittle to make a bearing spindle especially when in shear along the layers. Thus far, other than the original design which works when you sacrifice a goat and/or get lucky tweaking the adjuster, I've had pretty good luck with tlalexander's wade's type. This one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20850 uses a mk6 extruder gear which I have never had to clean out a
  15. yes, I agree, .25in (6.3mm) aluminum is probably thicker than necessary, but it's a much better thermal conductor than glass, so I shouldn't have any problems with cold corners. It does take a while to heat up, but it's usually hot by the time Cura is finished slicing, so it's not usually a waste of time for me. I also have been pulling parts off the bed as soon as they are done and not waiting for the bed to cool down. You have to be careful not to flex them, they're so soft they can warp easily. Also, I haven't lost any work area, and I haven't made any permanent changes to the frame, so I c
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