thedudevt

I switched from teflon tape to Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant PX#59214 which you can get at any automotive parts store. Much easier to apply and I've had no goo or head leaks since. Marlin, Cura, search the forum for bed leveling ( i use tin foil and a multi-meter), and print the fine Z adjuster http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033 to get the bed really dialed in. I also added an M3 nut to the thumb screw on the extruder. This acts as a jam nut to keep the thumb screw from loosening on a long print. Kyle Kyle

G92 E14 if you are using the stock Ultimaker hobbed bolt extruder design. I use G92 E14 with marlin firmware from Cura and it works. Smaller prints are more challenging to get good quality, you should try Yoda-Lite at full size with the ultra profile. I seem to remember it took 4.5 hours. I set mine up before bed and watch it for the first few layers to make sure I've got a good start. Make sure it's stuck to the bed, and if you've had any problems with the extruder slipping, clean the hobbed bolt. You will get some stringing between the head and ears, and the top of the head on mine didn't completely fill, but it still looks great. Kyle

@Thereza, Have you put M92 E14 in your header? Machine Tab-> "..."->Ultimaker Specific Tab @peggyb - WOW! I can't even see the layers, did you post process that part? Kyle

I've done a similar mod. I cut the brass tube by 5.7mm and squared the end by filing the edge against the face of an M6 die. (my machinist friends would be horrified by how I treat my tools). I threaded a new piece of tubing M6 x 8mm lg. Pretty hard to get the die started, I had to turn down the OD from .25" to 6mm first. If you have the tubing in a lathe, make sure you tweak the plastic to run out true or else the ID might be off center and cause problems. Assemble the hot end leaving the threaded rods abit loose. Thread in the bowden tube through the top hole and into the PEEK block as tight as you can manage by hand. Tighten up the threaded rods while keeping the heat sink square. Burn fingers. Massage the bend of the tube towards the extruder if the natural bend doesn't point that way. Insert extruder end into extruder bowden clamp and refeed. So far so good, even without an Owen's clamp. I've not had any plugs, and when I need to remove the filament it comes out easy with a low 160 preheat. Thank you guys for the great idea! Kyle

Oh, I forgot, I bought a few of these for the clamp http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=50775K327 They're marked Parker, Fast & Tite, 1/4, 10 on the top of the nut. Really nice clamps! Kyle

M92 E5.092 worked for me in NetFabb. 865.88/315 = 14/5.092 is where I came up with that number. The dowel nuts I got in the kits (bought two) were aluminum and poorly threaded. I couldn't get enough compression on the filament to leave it unattended for more than an hour. The filament slipped and ground even though there was no blockage in the nozzle (pulls out easily at 160). I've threaded my bowden tube into the PEEK and switched back to the stock extruder until I can make steel dowel nuts. I can't get that size here in the states commercially. The dowel nut is 8 dia. by 16 lg. with an M4 thru hole. Design-wise, I'd like to see a spring specified or supplied. All the non-Ultimaker extruders have them to keep the compression constant despite varying filament thickness. Will try again once I get the dowel nuts made. So far, threading the bowden tube (or assembling it correctly per the inst.) and keeping the hobbed bolt clean are the answers for me. Kyle

I put mine in a V-Block and cut it with a razor blade sliding along the face of the block to guide the blade. If you don't have a v-block, maybe a vise? I have the same problems with jamming though, I think I'm going to thread the end of the bowden tube per viewtopic.php?f=6&t=184. I agree, if Ultimaker had a solution, I'd buy it. It's frustrating to have prints fail half way through. Kyle

I have a snootlab LCD. It works as advertised with a slightly older version of marlin thanks to alx. Check the thread on this forum for details. It is nice to print from SD. I found that Printrun would hiccup every time the laptop went to sleep. I never had a buffer under run tho. I would LOVE to have pause, resume, temps, and time remaining on the print screen, all it says now is "printing..." I suppose the firmware source is available, but I'm not really a software guy- I'm useless without intellisense anyway. If anyone decides to kit the UltiPanel with a populated and tested board, I'm interested, PM me.

@CodeMaven- Would you mind posting info about your NetFabb .02 profile here? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=581 Thank you!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15749 give me a 404 error. Is this project dead?

A small amount of leakage is no problem, a lot however, and it will drip down the nozzle and harden on top of the part-> nozzle collision-> skipped steps-> failed print. The acceptable leakage depends on how long you plan to leave it unattended. When it's really bad (too much teflon tape) I've had good luck baby sitting it, and wiping the drool off with a Q-tip. Next time you take apart the nozzle use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant (I read about it on the boards here) instead of teflon tape. I've been getting good results with that. You can get it at any auto parts store. Be careful to clean any extra out of the melt well before you reassemble. The item I bought was 6mL and the part no. is PX #59214 Kyle

Thanks for the tips ddurant, I changed my profile and i've started another print. Here's a pic for posterity. Still working on how to post .reprapcalibration files. Maybe we can get those white listed?

I too have a working UM, but it took a few days to figure it out. The only hardware issue I had was that the X limits were swapped (probably my fault). First prints looked terrible, but that's because i wasn't using the proper profile settings in NetFabb (EDIT: and E14 in the gcode header...). Once I got that sorted, I was able to print at the ultra 0.08mm setting right away. Since then i've been trying to learn what all the buttons do. There are a lot of good places to start, here are a few. If you have the stock firmware/software: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Newcomer_guid ... t_3D_print More advanced troubleshooting: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Troubleshooting Kyle

I tried ddurant's material def app for the first time yesterday. I tried a layer thickness of 0.02, nozzle widths of .4-.7, and a temperature of 185 (which I changed to 180-190 in NetFabb). speeds I set to 20-300 which might be a bit high, but I'd like to have the speed with such a small layer thickness. I learned that I have long way to go before I understand the system... I printed a yoda-lite scaled 50% overnight (estimated 4.5 hrs) which finished up to the chin before detaching and making spaghetti. (The first layer didn't stick well, and i should have started over.) Surface finish was really rough compared to the 100% yoda printed with the ultra profile, which makes me think i need to bump the temperature up to account for the increased speed. I'll post the material Def and a picture later today. My question: Does anyone have a 0.02mm material def i can try, or advice on how they got it to work? It would be great to have a repository of working definitions for people to start from, but i also want to learn how to do it myself. Is there a procedure or method to follow when making a new definition? Thanks, Kyle

not available yet on http://software.ultimaker.com/ , is there another link?

1. I trimmed the flanges and corners off the connector. 2. It does work, but it's fiddly. The fan doesn't fit inside it if that's what you meant. I also printed one from thingiverse.

I'm printing the 190C yoda head now, I'm up to the chin overhang and so far it looks the same. I'm priting the first yoda-lite http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10752 which is about 65mm tall. It takes about 7 hours to complete. I'm not so comfortable letting it print while I sleep yet. The paranoid me wants to build something to catch the flames when/if something fails. I'm sure the odds are tiny, but then that's why they call it paranoia. Hedis, this is the Z adjuster I printed, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033 I really like it so far. I haven't applied the fan shroud yet, and I won't till I've finished printing at least three temp runs. I should have bumped my speeds up to 300 as well but I don't want to change too many variables at once. I like that fan shroud (it's swoopy), but I'm not sure the little axial fan can generate the pressure to really take advantage of the shape. I guess I'll just have to print that now too. I've been looking into a faster way to run this temp test, and I came across this thing - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9804 . It looks perfect for testing stringing and bridging. I'm thinking of manually adding an M109 temp change between each step. I bet you could test 10 settings in an hour or two. Much faster than one setting per day. I talked about reslicing in SkeinPyPy, partially to teach myself, but also I was thinking I might gain something from trying out retraction. But then, that's another variable... The good news is of course that the 220C yoda head cleaned up fine. Looks great except for the holes in the head, which might just require better cooling. Kyle

First print at 220C - Marlin + NetFabb Ultra Profile with .1" support grid, through printrun, about 7 hours - some of the stringing in the shirt is from a G00 rapid between the support grid pass and the next layer shell pass. Lots of stringing to the right ear, and the top of the head has a hole from too much heat, too little cooling, or too much dwell time. Also, the low overhangs at the chin, and ears tips show a bit of sag to the strings, as well as the material that doesn't stick, gets wiped off at the begining of the next shell pass. I have not installed Owen's fan yet, so my UM is stock except for a Z height fine adjust thing (no more grabbing the Z screw on the first layer). Kyle Ultimaker 2 Go Press kit.zip

I think this calls for an experiment! I will slice (NetFabb) and print Yoda at 190, 200, 210, 220 to see for myself what the differences are in that range.I will then slice Yoda with SkeinPyPy and print at the best temp from the first experiment. Kyle

Thank you both for your advice. I'll add the fan shroud and insulation and see where I get with that. Kyle

First let me say thank you to everyone on the board, and to those who have contributed to the wiki. Your generosity is truly amazing. I've read on the board here that you can print PLA as low as 185. I've been using 220 after getting some delamination at 200, but i'm getting alot of stringing, blobbing and warp and i think it can do better. I'm using BuildMeMarlin 1.0, NetFabb, and Printrun with Ultimaker grey PLA. Does anyone have tips on tuning or modding to get the temps down? I've printed Owen's fan shroud and will install that tonight, and I've ordered ceramic tape and kapton to insulate the heater block. I'm thinking part of the problem is you need smaller swings in temperature and faster response, hence the insulation. The warp may be material specific, I've got some spools from Ultimachine advertised as low warp but i haven't tried them yet. Kyle

Recieved my UM #1227 from DHL yesterday at about 2PM EST. 4 Business days from initial shipping notification. The delivery guy called my from my driveway and went to gas up while I drove 10 minutes home to sign for the box. Sorry to hear about the trouble you are having, I guess i got lucky. Very impressed by the quality of the kit so far. Kyle

Thanks for the pics Erik, I appreciate your efforts. Please do your best to keep the following forum members up to date #1186, Falc, 2jan, Not Shipped #1204, sprockett, 5jan, Not Shipped #1219, raymie, 17jan, Not Shipped Kyle

#1227, thedudevt, 10jan, Recieved my DHL notification at 12:24 EST Yeah!

I'm as eager to get my Ultimaker at the next guy. i don't know if I'll get a shipping confirmation this week or next, or what. 6 weeks seems like an eternity sometimes, but it could be worse. Case in point, I've been on the waiting list for a 2.x Laser kit since mid-November. The designer, who has a full time job, has moved on to another project (makerslide) and the 2.x Laser gets very little of his free time. Yeah, i could make my own parts, but it's not cost effective for me to do so. I'm grateful Ultimaker has dedicated support at all and is growing. We just happen to have ordered during an early growth phase. Hang in there, it will come, and when it comes it'll be like Christmas when you were four! Take the time you have now to learn Skeinforge, or Netfabb, or SCAD, or download the David 3D scanner software. There's a reason we call ourselves makers. Kyle