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karabas

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  • 3D printer
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  1. Thank you, very interesting. About 3 traveles remain, when support structure begins to split. Depends from type of support. I will try
  2. I print bented tubes for woodwind musical instruments. Any strings inside are very problematic to remove in postprocessing. I tried many combinations with combing. I still got many travels inside. Is there any way to force nozzle move around?
  3. Does this printed with head toolchanger? The pic above is like dual nozzle printing...
  4. Both versions of CURA (2.1 and 15.04) crash or hang on big models on 6Gig RAM PC Tried on delta with D400mm. Download http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:862724 , scale up to max fit to 400mm bed. The same model smaller size sliced succesfully. BTW highly needed option that all perimeters must be only clockwise or ccw
  5. I got it working but only after reflashing stock marin without power off. But if I power off/on I got very dark image. Pressing reset I see it a bit brighter for a second before disappearing. My setup is arduino 2560+ramps1.4 + SSD1306OLED on my table ( no printer yet)
  6. I am interested in support 1306 OLED. Stock Marlin + G8Lib supported it but printer is stuttering. As I understand new lib works better. But it supports only 1309. Is it much difference to change code for 1306? I think about comparing U8G 1306/1309 as a reference to make this support. Is it reasonable?
  7. Why don't anybody cut it from solid 6mm polycarbonate? It's temperature resistant, transparent, etc...
  8. As ABS fan I do not trust direct drive feeders. I thought about double drive reductor such as seemecnc and apparently looked at russian Picaso printer. It's there. Metal double drive compact feeder. Look http://roboforum.ru/forum107/topic13991.html#p298318
  9. http://reprap.org/wiki/Seemecnc_h1 see pics, pdf, STLs Acrilc parts were mistake. They are warped and break. But I printed replacements. When replicating do grooves less deep.
  10. I highly recommend to look at Steve extruder ( abandoned now) used in SeeMeCNC-H1 printers. I use it about two years. It has double drive wheels(about 1/2" diameter) with smooth(!) groove. It is adjustable. It cannot eat filament but skips steps under high load. I used M3 bit to make grooves slightly "sharper". But with my J-head V1(smallest liquid zone) I never went faster than 100mm/min. There was bowden version also. I can openscading it if needed.
  11. Hm... I always thought UM is ringing free due to bowden and double belts. I hope it can be tuned.
  12. I see noticeble "ringing" on the robot. What was the speed? What is diameter of nozzle?
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