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  1. DO NOT USE SDHC CARDS! They might appear to work fine, but there is a bug in the software that could cause your prints to restart half way. Well if you really want to try it, try the flu card and not the toshiba flashair. I was the one that mentioned it on the google groups.. I dont see any software from toshbia that lets you upload a file to the Sd card.. I tried contacting their support, but didnt get any response... However for the flu card, they claim there is a upload functionality on the web page that shows up when you access the flu card using your browser.... Let us know the results if you try it out.. http://www.flu-card.com/ Hitesh
  2. I agree with alaris on this. I have tried atleast 3 different fan duct designs from thingiverse.. but none have really worked for me beyond 2-3 weeks, so I am back with the stock fan shroud.
  3. Thanks Ian! Since the bottom of the model was uneven, I used support so that it would even it out.. I don't really know how to use 3d software, but I am sure folks proficient in it could even out and straighten the base Hitesh
  4. Yoda is Armstrom's print, not mine.. yea I use Taylor's wade extruder design Hitesh
  5. Thanks Florian! Yes i had retraction enabled and am using the mk6 gear. @concreteTurtle: The whistle looks great. Does it generate sound? I tried printing a similar one (or probably the same one)..it looked good, but did not have any sound..maybe i didnt have the infill set right.. Hitesh
  6. The United States Capitol. Sliced using Cura (.2mm layer height, support enabled as the bottom is uneven). took about 6 hours to print. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26032 - Hitesh
  7. What is the thingiverse link for this object?
  8. So previous versions of Cura - CuraRC1 for example - had a 'copy' button (as seen below) to achieve what you're trying to do.. So you can download the previous version to try it.. But it seems Daid took that functionality out from the later versions and added it instead to ProjectPlanner - the difference being that project planner will print the objects one by one, while the 'copy' function would enable you to print all the copies simultaneously.. Another option is to use plater.py to open up the stl 4 times and then place it where you want to place it and then export it as a single stl.. plater.py comes bundled with CuraR4..under the printrun folder So in a DOS prompt, you can get to the printrun directory and type the following to launch plater.py ..pythonpython.exe plater.py Hitesh
  9. Hi ConcreteJungle, I just replied to you in a different thread. But here it is: If the tension screw is too tight, the filament will eat away at the material. The first two video links(from Jeorgen) might be helpful.... Filament pressure: http://db.tt/zVcKL9q0 Bolt tightening: http://db.tt/j95qMlaQ Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 1: http://db.tt/FVAU7hiH Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 2: http://db.tt/Ag7OpbbT Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 3: http://db.tt/Kd3kPPrg Also, folks that I know (including myself) have been printing at 230-245 degrees because it seems the temp that you set is not the actual temp in the nozzle.. For me there seemed to be an offset of about 25degrees..so the temp was about 25-30degrees lower.. When I first got the kit about 2 months ago, I was printing at 200-210 and was constantly getting jams. I haven't had any jams since raising the temp to 235degrees .. So if you recently purchased your kit, you might have the same temp issue...so increasing temp is probably worth a try.. Hitesh
  10. Hi ConcreteTurtle: If the tension screw is too tight, the filament will eat away at the material. The first two video links(from Jeorgen) might be helpful.... Filament pressure: http://db.tt/zVcKL9q0 Bolt tightening: http://db.tt/j95qMlaQ Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 1: http://db.tt/FVAU7hiH Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 2: http://db.tt/Ag7OpbbT Filament-Bowden-Peek transition 3: http://db.tt/Kd3kPPrg
  11. I've been using the ulticontroller for a couple of weeks now and I love it. My ultimaker is in the garage so i always had to move my laptop back and forth between my living room and garage...no more of that.... i still need to take the sd card in and out - but thats no biggie.. though i am trying to figure out ways to wirelessly transfer files to the sd card..
  12. Yea I'm taking requests you're right pyramids are not that impressive print wise.. maybe the golden gate bridge with all that bridging and overhang...maybe not..
  13. After Eiffel tower, I thought why not try printing another tower. So here it is - Leaning tower of pisa in glow-in-dark PLA http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24772 - Hitesh Vacancy Frontenddeveloper.pdf Vacancy_ChannelSalesManager.pdf
  14. I am using cura RC4 on windows - what I notice is that after I slice a complex object (large object), cura hangs ("not responding") while trying to load the gcode animation for the object that it just sliced... Eventually it does load up the gcode visualization - but after a while... so it would be good if there was a way in preferences or somewhere to toggle gcode visualization feature and turn off gcode animation feature... Hitesh
  15. hi Kym, I have the same issue.. it is annoying, but havent been able to fix it. There has been discussion about this in the google groups: https://groups.google.com/forum/?pli=1# ... 8dzqZZo-cJ Basically this is what Chuck said: "Sometimes the belts will make a "popping" sound if they are mis-aligned, It's basically the belt riding up the side of the pulley and popping back into place. It will make a regular ticking noise. Berend made a handy tool for this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8781 Chuck"
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