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Everything posted by rock500

  1. I currently print at 190c at 50mm/sec and 220c at 80mm/sec at 0.1mm layers, all the pla i use is from faberdashery, i found the pla which came with ultimaker poor and caused issues and poor prints, not looked back since i switched to faberdashery, more expensive but less hassle and failed prints.
  2. I have a similar problem with the Z axis sticking, i have removed the spindle from the steeper, and moved the platform up and down with the smooth rods in place, and even with oiling the bearings are rough. I also find i have issues with prints at the 10mm layer, as the platform drops to 10mm when you start prints etc, so its a common height the printer goes to a lot. It would be good if somewhere you could very the height (eg between 8-15mm) when the platform drops for a test extrude before a print starts, so any wear is varied.
  3. I use this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13045 works great at getting under a print.
  4. Just posted the code link http://pastebin.com/download.php?i=9KJ0eyKh to download.
  5. Yep pretty sure its not mechanical as when i unclick enable skin and re create the same code its fine. Let me know where you want the Gcode, and i can send it across.
  6. Hi Daid i might of found a little bug in Cura RC2. What i have found if i have "Enable skin" selected and also have the part rotated using Rot and a figure, after the 1st or 2nd layer the whole print will move to the left by about 10mm/15mm and carry on printing as normal. Noticed this when i took a print off and it was warped on the left side only, noticed you could still see a slight outline on the blue tape which was 1 or 2 layers deep at 0.1mm. The right hand side still had all layers under it so did not warp. Happend a few times until i realised it was the enable skin command seemed to cause it, just did a print with enable skin unticked and printed fine. If you need any gcode etc let me know.
  7. Will give it a go and see what happens but i do check the thumb screw regular, btw RC2 is working fine on Win 7
  8. The above print is already at 220 so i don't think its the temp, i have noticed that on the otherside both prints are nice and smooth, just wonder if its how its sliced ?. I do have the fill overlap at 20 rather than 15 but this has not made any noticeable difference.
  9. Ok this is something which has been bugging me for a while, on the attached photo you can see the marks on the side wall of these parts, with the black the marks are pretty much the same, so its not the pla. I don't think its Cura RC2 ? but i am sure a expert might be able to pin point the possible cause. Even if i print a lot slower and a lower temp ie 195C @ 60ms i still get these marks. Good thing with Cura RC2 is that it save's the setting you used for each print which is handy. Anyway photo and profile used to print these parts below. [profile] filament_diameter = 2.85 nozzle_size = 0.4 machine_center_x = 100 machine_center_y = 100 wall_thickness = 0.4 flip_x = False flip_y = False flip_z = False swap_xz = False swap_yz = False model_scale = 1 model_rotate_base = 0 layer_height = 0.1 solid_layer_thickness = 0.8 fill_density = 50 skirt_line_count = 1 skirt_gap = 6.0 print_speed = 100 print_temperature = 220 support = None enable_raft = False filament_density = 1.00 retraction_min_travel = 5.0 retraction_speed = 13.5 retraction_amount = 0.0 retraction_extra = 0.0 travel_speed = 150 max_z_speed = 1.0 bottom_layer_speed = 40 cool_min_layer_time = 4 fan_enabled = True bottom_thickness = 0.0 enable_skin = False model_multiply_x = 1 model_multiply_y = 1 extra_base_wall_thickness = 0.0 cool_min_feedrate = 5 fan_layer = 0 fan_speed = 100 raft_margin = 5 raft_base_material_amount = 100 raft_interface_material_amount = 100 support_rate = 40 support_distance = 0.5 infill_type = Grid Hexagonal solid_top = True fill_overlap = 20 bridge_speed = 100 bridge_material_amount = 100 sequence = Perimeter > Loops > Infill force_first_layer_sequence = True joris = False Jonathan
  10. I see that this is now available on the Ultimaker website https://shop.ultimaker.com/en/parts-1/ulticontroller-ultipanel.html#
  11. I am on Windows 7, so that explains why the program close's down. Look forward to seeing RC2
  12. Thanks for that, hopefully people will find it handy. Still no joy getting Cura RC1 running, once i enter my filament size and hit next, all the open box's close, and then nothing. Jonathan
  13. Thanks for the quick reply daid, re the used settings i would not want them in the gcode, but in the text file which is generated along with the gcode. Even if it just exported the raw data i guess you could work out quickly what the temp, fill etc was ?. I will try and skip the wizard and edit in the preferences once my current print has finished. Jonathan
  14. Daid, a bit of give and take The give, would it be possible to add to the text file which is generated with every gcode file, basically a exif data of the settings used to create that print, ie temp, fill %, speed etc. Many items i have gone back to a old item and wondered what settings i have used to create that print. As the text file is already created could this data be added ?. I think many people would find this handy The take, i am having problems getting cura up and running, in the start up wizard, i skip the firmware update, but one i get to the section which asks to extrude 100mm of filament i get stuck, it will not allow me to save if i simply enter my mm figure which is 103, (i already have the figure from previous tests) so there is no need for me to run through the whole procdure, but when i enter 103 and then hit save, it changes the 103 to zero. Then if i try to extrude 100mm and try to heat up my machine using the button it heats i hit ok,then i remove the filiment, and line it up, then hit extrude 100mm. but nothing happens. Any ideas?. Jonathan
  15. If you are in the UK, you can get MXL belts from http://www.beltingonline.com/mxl-pitch-rubber-timing-belts-4580 you can spec the width of belt you require, i have used them a couple of times and they ship within a few days and the price's are good so you could order a few spares. I am guessing the 300 on the ultimaker belt is the amount of teeth, so the 2384-MXL could be the right option as this would be about a 4mm shorter belt ?.
  16. I have used polyimide (Kapton) tape on my ulitmaker with pla, and i think it works really well, and you get a great gloss finish on the part which comes into contact with the tape. Also a lot easier to remove the parts off the tape after a print than the blue tape. You do have to accurately level you bed (i use a 0.05mm feeler gauge) but once this is done it works well and i have had no problem with the 1st layer not sticking. The only reason i am still using blue tape is i can only find 25mm wide kapton tape here in the UK, and it is a really pain to get the tape onto the bed without overlaps etc as it is very thin tape, also having to do lots of rows with each one being perfectly lined up takes a long time.
  17. What is the size, depth and fill of the square we are trying to print without warping ?. I would like to give it a go as i am using the faberdashery pla and a different platform tape.
  18. Daid, do you have a idea when the next release will be out which fix's the exterior only support bug. I am using the everywhere support, but it cause's a lot of problems with my parts, as there are supports everywhere :lol: and in places were it takes a long time to get the material out. I have a batch of parts to print and if a new version is coming soon, i will hold off printing them until the new release with the bug fix is out. Jonathan
  19. Its already working pretty well for me, but i like the interface as its nice and simple and i would struggle with netfabb to make the changes i can within skeinpypy within a few seconds. And the popups when you hover over a box are really handy for a newbie like me.
  20. Editting py is a little beyond me, as long as its fixed in the next release i will be happy
  21. Daid, i may of found a small bug, if i flip a part over using Flip Z, the gcode produced is of the part before the flip. Also i am struggling with support, i have a part with a flat area which is the on the bed, then there is a 1mm raised area which i need to have support under, at the moment i am using "Exterior only" is this the best option. Feature request - Would it be possible to move the part around rather than it being always centered ?, like in Netfab as i like to try and not print always on the same blue tape at the center of the bed. Keep up the great work, i am getting better results than when i was using Netfabb now Jonathan
  22. It was this thread that talked about the PLA45 and PLA90 from orbi-tech, towards the bottom of the 1st page. http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=297 I would be interested to here how people get on with it Jonathan
  23. Thanks Owen, i thought that was only need for RepG for some reason. So its safe to leave that in NetFabb, for any firmware used on the ulitmaker ?.
  24. Downloaded the firmware with the two options as your post above, and these are now working fine Final issue i have is that the extrude wheels spins very quick and is grinding the filamnet when using the firmware with netfabb and print run. Would this down to needing the M92 E14 command in the gcode header for Netfabb, as i removed it thinking it was only required for Repg26.
  25. Thanks for that, found countour count and will have a play with that. When i set fill spacing to 0.0mm i still get the hatching (filling) rather than solid layers which you get on the top and bottom layers. I am not sure what up and downskins are, i am still pretty new to all this if its the top and bottom layer maybe, then these layers are solid, but the top layer is thicker than the bottom layer, would be nice to have them the same thickness. Jonathan
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