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If you need a Support Engineer to review the logs or if it happens again you can submit a ticket to us via this link. Hope this helps!

Hello! We have some exciting news to share with you so it is time for another update from your dear friends at Ultimaker! What is the Ultimaker Showcase? A one-hour online broadcast where we will share our latest progress with you directly and we'll also be looking forward! What will come next? Be the first to know! Besides the exciting product updates we have for you, we are also aware what is happening in the world around us. We live in unprecedented times that come with a lot of challenges. But challenges often lead to innovation and we have some insights that might help you, as a business, navigate through this VUCA* world. VUCA: Volatility, Uncertainty, Complexity, and Ambiguity. Curious? Visit this page to learn more about the Ultimaker Showcase event All ready? Sign up for free and save the date to ensure you won't miss a second of what we have to say! See you on October the 14th!

Hi @hubbs, thank you for your post. Interesting, I will share the resolution back with the product experts, but since we won't have any logs it might be difficult to isolate the cause. But it would be good to be aware of the issue for the archives and possibly identify if it is an incidental or more wide spread issue (yours is the only one I heard about). Happy to hear the firmware update managed to resolve it, let's hope it stays that way. If you ever run into any (other) issues again, the community and our product experts are here to help you get back to 3D printing as soon as possible! Have a great day!

Scarring is usually used to refer to the little remains you see on the surface of your print where you removed support (with pliers). PVA doesn't require the removal of support since it dissolves in water, so there should usually be no scarring indeed. The smoothness of your surface can be influenced with the X, Y and Z distance between support and your model, and your support structure + density, but the default profile settings should give you pretty good results from the start.

Hi, thank you for your post and welcome to the forums. Can you perhaps elaborate a little bit further about what you have tried to unblock it, and what (material) you printed or tried to print before it got clogged? If you haven't found instructions yet, you can find them here. Of course we don't know yet what is blocking it, but we haven't ran into many print cores that couldn't be cleaned anymore. Good luck!

That is great to hear! I don't know if you have installed the Settings Guide plugin, but in the Tree section of the Settings Guide it says that Tree support is unsuitable for more difficult to print materials like PVA and flexible supports. The advantages of having no scarring also don't really apply to PVA since you don't have that anyway. So if you wish to use PVA, I would recommend to switch to regular support structures. Hope this helps!

Hi @hubbs, thank you for your message. So if I understand it correctly the offset occurred on 5 different prints but the same model all at around 12mm, and on a different model at 7mm and 43mm? If it were at random places I could suspect an end stop cable being worn down from a pulley or that it might be pinched somewhere, but if it is consistent at different heights at different prints, that wouldn't make sense then. So if you can confirm or deny the above that would be helpful. It is crucial to have a good understanding of the frequency and repeatability of the offset. I can't imagine a third party filament or print core being a factor in this offset. Another idea: Are you sure your glass plate is properly secured and its not the glass plate that is shifting around?

Hi @hubbs, thank you for your post. So does it always happen at the same height or not? I'm not sure since you say "..but it the error occurred at two points for the first time..' I find it a little bit difficult to put your black close up pictures in perspective. Like what or from what angle am I looking at the print? Is it always into the same direction, X or Y? Have you ever stuck around to see what it physically does at that point, to create the off set? If anything would be detectable. Thanks,

To make @gr5's response a little bit more visual we also have a guide that describes the same steps with photo's here. The only thing I might add to these steps is to heat up your print core. The tip of the filament might be stuck in the nozzle/print core, and by heating it up it would get soft again and you could more easily pull the filament out of the print core.

I would say this really depends on what you are printing with most of the times. To get a decent overview for most materials we have written this guide. Where are you based? We should have sales partners in most regions that should be able to help you out.

It also looks like on that bottom piece of your first picture that adhesion to the buildplate might not have been sufficient, the way the square is situated between the skirt and the lines that are visible inside of it. Is your leveling correct, and did you apply an adhesive?

Hi @Balshaj, thank you for your message. I have made some edits to your message because there was some language in there that we don't appreciate and is not necessary. Please be mindful of that in your future replies. Thank you for understanding. Regarding the topic at hand, it would be helpful to see some photo's so let's wait for that. Do you print with Ultimaker Nylon or a different brand? Is it an old or new spool? Do you use the default material profile found in Cura? Thanks.

Hi @Nacho2707, thank you for your response and welcome to the community! Please be mindful about the categories and language when you write a response. As a house rule the shared language in the community is English. For now I have added a translation to your response. We do have other areas if you prefer to speak your local language instead. Here is a link to Spanish if you prefer. Thank you!

Hi @Carbon, thank you for your response! I'm very happy to see you happily and productively using TPU. Would you mind elaborating what the function is of TPU in your shown examples? Does it protect against impact or wear? Did you need to make a few versions to learn the proper density coming from the infill pattern?

Thank you for your response @UlrichC-DE! For some context, I have created these topics recently because we're adding links to the Ultimaker Marketplace materials (Ultimaker filament), to guide people to our discussion platform if they have any questions about said material. Reading about other peoples experience is also incredibly helpful I reckon. So thanks for taking the time to write down your experience with Ultimaker ABS! Since you mention you used all Ultimaker filaments, I think everyone could appreciate it if you could be bothered to add your experience of some other Ultimaker filaments too, when you would have a moment. At your convenience of course 🙂 Your experience with Ultimaker ABS, has that always been in combination with the UMS5 Pro Bundle incl Air Manager, or have you also printed it on other machines?

Hi, I think printing TPU95A with a 0.25mm nozzle will always be on the 'experimental' side given the flexible nature of the filament and the amount of control necessary with the nozzle but you should get better results. Perhaps if you can share your model, or an img of it, we would be able to tell you with more confidence how difficult or easy to print it would be.

Hi @sankayop, thank you for your message and welcome to the community! Please do be aware that you are responding to a post that is over 1,5 years old, and answers given or information found may be outdated by now. Before you used your PVA, did you dry it to ensure it is dry enough to use? It is important to realise that the material station is intended to keep your filament dry, not to make it dry. You can find instructions on how to dry it here. We have introduced a new feeder wheel after Paul's original issue which significantly increase the reliability of printing with PVA. I would recommend to stick to the original profile, and make sure your PVA is dry before you load it in the material station. You might want to check if the coupler holding your bowden tube did not get damaged why the bowden tube got loose. You can do so by removing the horse shoe, push down the coupler and pull out the bowden tube. The coupler should now sit loose in the feeder and you should be able to get it out. In the inside you should see 4 small metal blades that grab into the bowden tube. If they seem bent or missing you might want to get a new coupler from your reseller (they don't cost much). If they are still good or when you have new ones make sure the bowden tube is put back properly. Instructions can be found here. So I would recommend to dry your PVA, use the default profile, make sure the print cores are clean and let us know how it goes then. Good luck!

Hi Tim, thank you for your response. Before we would be able to make such a call we would need to review your log files and collect more data from other users. So at this point, that would be too soon to tell. I am also still not sure what exactly your issue was, some questions in my previous post are still unanswered that would help me understand. If you still need any help, it would be helpful if you could describe your issue more specifically and if it has happened once or every time you try to start a print. Thank you for your time,

Ultimaker ABS is formulated to minimize warping and ensure consistent interlayer adhesion, which can be an issue with ABS. ABS has been a popular material for many years already. But more and more alternatives appear on the market. When should you use ABS or when should pick something else? Ask us below in the comments! Community experts, Ultimaker experts and material experts are available to help. Have you printed with Ultimaker ABS before? Let us know what you think! It could be useful for customers considering to use it.

Ultimaker PC is strong, dimensionally stable up to temperatures as high as 110ºC, which is great for outdoor parts. Do you have any questions about PC or have you used PC before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use PC.

Ultimaker PP is a durable, chemical resistant material. It has high levels of toughness, a low friction co-efficient and exceptional fatigue resistance. That means it is excellent to make certain clamps, bottles, holders or grips. Curious if it is the right material for your application? Ask us below in the comments! Have you used PP before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use PP.

Ultimaker Tough PLA prints like PLA but has a toughness more similar to ABS. Making it ideal for functional prototypes and larger tools. So when should you pick PLA, ABS or Tough PLA? Ask us below in the comments! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Have you used Tough PLA before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use Tough PLA.

Ultimaker TPU95A is a flexible material and chemical resistant. Printing flexible material is not always easy, but with TPU95A you should have a seamless 3D printing experience. Excellent from printing handles, bumpers or outer shells to reduce damage from wear. How flexible your print is can be influenced via the amount of walls and the type of infill used. Curious? Ask us below what you are trying to achieve! Have you used TPU95A before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use TPU95A.

Ultimaker CPE+ is chemical resistant, dimensionally stable and has a higher temperature resistance and impact strength compared to CPE. Curious if the impact strength is sufficient for your application? Get in touch with our community and we can help you build the strongest part possible. Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Or have you used CPE+ yourself? Let us know what you think of it! It could be useful for new customers considering to use CPE+ for their applications. Thanks!

Ultimaker CPE is chemical resistant, tough and has reliable dimensional stability. But is it also resistant against the chemicals used in or around your application? If you’re not sure, drop us a line below! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are ready to help. Have you used CPE before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use CPE. Thanks a bunch!