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SandervG

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Everything posted by SandervG

  1. We are! Looking forward meeting you there.
  2. Hi Alex, Yes please send me a message with your order-number and your ticketID. It goes without saying that usually a refund is completed much faster, so I am guessing your refund could use some monitoring. Looking forward hearing from you,
  3. Hi All, I wanted to give you an update about the repeated request for spare parts for the Ultimaker 2. For a while we could not put them online for purchase because, as the lead time proved, we couldn't afford to sell them individually and run out of stock. Instead we did offer them to our users when they contacted our sales department. They have always been available, but perhaps not in the most easy way. Our apologies for any inconvenience for this. Following the current lead time, it shows that we are starting to control the situation and this means we are taking steps on making some parts available through the webshop. We are finalizing some preparations but since the topic is getting bigger I wanted to share this update with you that within a reasonable amount of time they will become available. Hopefully this is some reinsuring news and we will meet a lot of your needs. Because that is our goal. Being a (successful) start up we hare expected to grow in all ways and directions all at once, sometimes we may not grow as fast as expected but we do aim to meet your needs and requests. Thank you for your time and taking the effort to express your needs, so it gives us direction.
  4. For what we have / is prepared it needs to be a certain diameter. I don't know that from the top of my head.. But we choose 100ml so it goes a while before refilling. The biggest downside for 60ml is that you may need to refill faster.. If you don't have a 100ml for comparison it is probably a difficult thing to answer.. but do you think your 60ml is shorter or thinner? (or maybe both)?
  5. The filament is not mandatory either. I will bring a reel which should be enough for everyone. Bring your printer, and a a syringe if possible and you are in the green The syringe is without the needle, but it should have like a small opening (which they usually have by default).
  6. Hi Lieven, Thank you for your detailed report. It sounds like overal you are impressed with the machine which is a good thing to hear You are right about the material settings being stored in the Ultimaker 2. I agree I had to get used to this in the beginning as well, but it is a very convenient not to make a slice for every material (even though Cura is very fast). About the default profiles, the bed at 70º is too hot. I always tune it down to 55º/60º. The reason it has changed is that you have a much (much!) nicer bottom finish with the glass plate. You don't need any extra materials (like tape). And it avoids warping better then tape. ABS with fans, I don't know why. I will pass this on to Daid as a suggestion. Besides ABS, I have also printed in Nylon which is also very strong. Have you tried this already? Thank you for your report!
  7. With a little bit of luck and you get more familiar with the machine and cad-modeling it will only get worse You will see more and more things that could be improved / made / 3D printed.
  8. Hi Guys You don't need any tools to take with you. The only part you need is a 100ml syringe. If you have these lying around that would be great. Besides that you need to print a couple of parts and need a piece of bowden tube (we will have that) and filament (which everyone should have plenty). It is quite easy to remove the hack, so you don't need to do any hardcore modifications to your precious machine
  9. Hi bhowiebkr, Thank you for your post. We learned a few kits were send out without the bearing pack. Could you share your ticket number with me so I can make sure you get your replacements asap? Thank you, and our apologies for the inconvenience,
  10. Hi Everyone, Another Ulti-evening is coming up on July 14th. As usual it is being held at the fablab Protospace in Utrecht however it is going to be slightly different then usual. As some of Ultimaker has spend the last couple of days in Barcelona, like myself, we hosted a few workshops and one of them was about how to hack your trusty Ultimaker into a chocholate-3D printer. The workshop was great and we thought it would be an excellent idea to share this with all of you. So instead of having 2 interesting talks it is time to stick those hands out and get dirty again! It is hacking-time The timetable remains quite the same and it is particularly a good idea to bring your 3D printer with you so you can hack it. Depending on the size of the group we may not get around to hack every printer (we may do groups?) but at the very least you will know how to do it and go forward with it at home. Date: 14-07-2014 Time: 17.00 - 22.00 Location: ProtoSpace, Utrecht 17.00 - 18.00 Arrival (preferably with your Ultimaker) and order your food. (not chocolate related) 18.00 - 18.30 Short introduction about the workshop by Joris van Tubergen 18.30 - 19.00 Food. 19.00 - 22.00 Hacking time; Workshop. I would like to hear what everyone thinks of this idea to make it a bit more interactive. We will also share our findings later online for the rest of the (not dutch) community and if you like this idea we may have found a new angle. Looking forward hearing from you!
  11. Hi Ultimoose, Thank you for your post. I am sorry to hear you received an Ultimaker 2 that had some damage, whether or not during transit or assembly. As if most users here will confirm Ultimaker stands behinds its users. And if something went wrong, we will do what we can, within reasonable terms, to fix it. Looking at the pictures in your email I am sure we are able to solve this. And like Daid says, both damages will not affect the functionality of the Ultimaker so you can continue to use it and you will not loose any valuable printing time. I will have my colleague get back with you today so your issue will be resolved. My apologies for the delay and the scratch on your Ultimaker. I am sure it will be solved soon.
  12. Hi All, Jacky (aka Valcrow) made a very interesting write up about how he printed the light saber and why he also made one with 14 pieces! It has some very interesting tips and don't complain when you feel 'forced' to print another one! For May the 4th, I designed a 3D printed lightsaber in commemoration of Star Wars day in collaboration with Ultimaker. There were many other designs out there, but none that I was really happy with. The examples I saw were mostly over simplified, impossible to print without supports, or difficult to assemble. I knew I wanted something more faithful to the original prop with better surface quality. So I set out to build my favorite design from the series. Want to read more? The entire blog is https://www.ultimaker.com/blogs/news/2014/07/02/3d-printed-lightsaber-design-philosophy
  13. Hi Evostatic, Thank you for your post on our forums. Can you send me your ticketID on one or both of the ticket's you submitted? I will put you in touch with my colleague from sales. I am not sure why you have not yet received a reply, my apologies for the inconvenience. The phone number should be available, even out of office hours. Did you use the correct country code? (0031 345 ... ?) Lets get you in touch with someone asap to help and solve the difficulties you are facing. Thank you for your time, and looking forward hearing from you.
  14. haha ohh the countless times I have had to troubleshoot a machine that had abs-residue in it and was trying to print PLA.
  15. ok, i am glad they arrived. Please keep me up to date about your progress so in case something is not working yet I can immediately set some wheels in motion . Thank you and looking forward hearing from you!
  16. Because ABS has a significant higher melting point then PLA you can not afford to have any ABS residu left in the print head when you are going to print with PLA. When the PLA will drag the ABS-remains down through the nozzle these will most likely clog the nozzle because they will not melt. For that reason, when you switch from ABS to PLA, leave the printhead at ABS-temperatures and flush it with a couple of cm of PLA. This should usually do the trick Not that complicated, but just using PLA is much easier..
  17. Hi jbaele, Welcome to the community! Im glad to hear you received your Ultimaker 2 so fast. The lead time did decrease to 2-4 weeks so a lot of improvement! I can tell you it was certainly not tested with abs, we never do that. It is quite a hassle to switch back from abs to pla.. Finding the right temp requires some experimenting but also depends on your speed. I usually print at 220/230 but you should not have to go any hihger.. Remember this: higher speed isa higher temp!
  18. Pardon my french; holy sh*t dude!! That is amazing! That fabric looks so real I want to touch it.
  19. Hi Paddy, Thank you for your post. I also saw your email in our ticket system and your reference by Nigel. Can you share your ordernumber with me, so I can check whether or not you are still in the warranty-period? Quite a few suggestions have been made, from visually inspecting to reading the voltage with a multi-meter, have you tried any of them? Do you want to? Lets try to find an appropriate solution for your problem, thank you for your time.
  20. I don't know if you want to oil the filament.. because that can interfere with your adhesion on the bed. Just make sure there is some lubrication in the tube for easier traveling.
  21. Do you print on an Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker 2? If you have a heated bed it may be a good idea to lower the temperature or leave it turned off completely. The heath can make the layers sag a little bit and cause what you are seeing.. On the Ultimaker 2 you can also print with blue M3-tape.
  22. The Ultimaker 2 will not use 1.75mm, however usually 3mm is not exactly 3mm. Not with the big popular resellers anyway. It is branded as 3mm, but in practice it is 2.85mm. And be careful what you buy on e-bay. You need quality input in order to achieve quality output.
  23. I have seen some video's where someone printed a robot using ninjaflex, but I can't remember where. Coincidentally I ordered a few reels of filament myself yesterday as I am also really curious to know how this works and I think it is a very interesting filament. My first attempt would be to print slow, add 2 drops of sewing machine oil in the bowden, disable retracting and don't print too hot. (don't know what I will be printing tho.. maybe just a bouncing ball?)
  24. Nallath, how many times did I tell you to open up a window if you keep using ABS :wink:
  25. The filament should always have teethmark, if not there is not enough pressure. It should look like the lace in your shoes, a very consistent teeth-mark. If there are irregularities, that can be an indication something is not working a full 100% (doesn't have to be a problem right away). If you have doubts you can upload a picture of the teethmark Still a setting could be off in simplify3D where it pulls back more filament then it is pushing back.. (just a guess..) You could also try to slice it again in simplify3D and double check those settings. Another thing you could check, is if the teethed sleeve on your extruder motor is still fixated. See if you can mark it with a marker and if this mark has moved after a print. (don't think this has anything to do with it, but it could rule out a mechanical cause).
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