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SandervG

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Everything posted by SandervG

  1. i didn't want to go there, but that thought also came to me haha!
  2. I assume you don't have an UltiController? When the Ultimaker reads a communication error during the first run wizard, this can also indicate that there is a temperature error. Do you have any temperature difficulties? Have you also tried different computers/laptops? Could it be that there is a general setting on your computer putting your USB ports into sleepmode after a while? In any case, i can recommend looking into an UltiController, besides avoiding the difficulties a connection with a computer can have, it brings along much more benefits.
  3. I agree, like most of the settings you chose for your Ultimaker, rarely one of them stands alone. Most of the values are effected by another setting. Like speed-print temperature, etc. Just as the calibration of your Nozzle-bed level. It depends on what your first layer is.
  4. Weird. I think they tried to make a stretchlet. They should look into the stringing, pretty bad retraction don't you think?
  5. Are sure you heated the hot end to 180C before trying to move the Emotor?
  6. haha great guerrilla promotion! It would be a cool to see where people can pull it off to showcase their Ultimakers, sneaky. Instead of photobombing, we should call it Ulti-bombing. ..hmm.. perhaps it needs a better.. less suspicious name
  7. from the black signal cable come 3 cables/headers. Female Blue Purple > For your hot end fan. Male Red/Yellow/Black > people usually use this one to connect to your thermocouple transmitter (as shown on your picture. A proper connection will active the blue Led when your UM is turned on). Male Green/Orange/Brown > This one usually is saved for dual extrusion, unless the other one (R/Y/B) gets damaged. The G/O/B and R/Y/B share the same function, in any case make sure to plug the same cable (G/O/B or R/Y/B) in your electronics AND in your thermocouple transmitter. Good luck!
  8. Nice idea. How is the angle if you want to look at the screen. Is everything visible when standing in front of the Ultimaker?
  9. Would be fun if it was running on a battery pack and was moving around through the room spitting out auto-robots. (and get you a coffee while it is at it) Or you could make it in a way that the prints would fall in a cabinet down in the display, available for grabs.
  10. That's what i do as well. Sometimes you want to keep an eye on that feeder or how your filament unravels. This can be done at the same time as monitoring/using your UltiController when it is on the side. And you can see everything just as good from the side as you can from the front
  11. Like a couple of people have stated, it should go in all the way. But i know some people who use the head of this screw to 'lock down' the cartridge heater. The point is; a tight fit is a good fit. The orientation of the heater block is fine for single extrusion, but for dual extrusion you would need to change it. If you would like to add dual fans you need to change it too. I don't think you should worry about the cartridge heater melting away your fanduct.
  12. Sewing machine oil works very good yes, we use it in the head quarters as well.
  13. If it only and always happens with larger prints, i would also look into overheating of the motor or stepper driver. Do you have all the heatsinks on them, and how about the fanduct on your electronics?
  14. The gradient can also come by heating itself, not necessarily overheating. I do see some filament at the bottom of the brasstube, have you already fixed this leak? Also, it is hard to tell, but is your Nozzle screwed in all the way to your alu heater block? Looks like maybe there is a small gap in between.
  15. I agree that it is a very welcome upgrade, and personally i would rather have it seen released yesterday then tomorrow if you know what i mean. Hopefully, on a short notice (weeks) we will be able to reveal more information about this subject that will answer a lot of questions. Right now, that is all i can say. So i would like to ask a little bit more of your patience
  16. I also always use a putty knife. A lot of the times the tape comes off, but that is easily replaced. For me it is not a big issue if there are some remains of tape on the bottom, so i usually let them be. Why we chose for Dual extrusion, is because a heated bed has been proven to have more technical challenges then might appear on first sight, for example the wooden frame, weight and the power it needs to run. Of course a heated bed is easily put together, but we want to make it backwards compatible so it fits perfectly in the wooden frame of the Ultimaker, without causing other difficulties or tons of other replacements. We are working on it, don't worry. Dual extrusion has been released now that Cura (although not yet fully>Dual material) offers a better support for it.
  17. Very nice color. Perhaps it is also a cool idea to paint the robot on the front in a slightly different color I took a picture of a print i made during the weekend, single extrusion but with dual set up. It definitely did not effect the print quality, so you should have no worries there. I will probably post the photo later day.
  18. Hi Jim, I am looking forward to hear about your findings with CodeMaven's advice. I will inform if Daid is aware of a bug and if a fix is nearby. Thanks,
  19. i have a few other tips for you: Print at a lowest possible temperature Print with as less infill as possible Put the tape over the entire build platform, and have it run over the bottom (so don't cut it on the engraved markings). Make sure the tape is pressed on the platform Make sure your first layer is pressed in the tape Make the corners of your print round, if possible. Print with a raft, so the raft will warp instead of your print In Cura we also have a new setting called Brim, which is suppose to help against warping. Use blue painters tape on the bed and to wipe the tape with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol - found at any drug store).
  20. wow, looks razor sharp Ian! Good job. Because it has so many open sides you are experiencing zero warping? I can imagine if you want to put everything together you don't want any gaps in between the walls.
  21. Hi Greengecko, I have just read your post + support ticket, and i can confirm you indeed need a signal cable with 2 temperature cables, 3 connectors in total. (also 1 for the fan). I do know that it was also already included in rev3, not sure about rev 2. Anyway, i will sent you a new one, which will hopefully arrive within a day or 2. Have a nice day!
  22. In the past i had an inconsistent diameter and on occasion it was brittle, perhaps this has something to do with it. However, the latest batch i received was remarkable better then the older ones.
  23. haha very cool! Is that laywood that you printed the body with? Looks cool.
  24. Hi, if your status is at processing, this means we have not been able to confirm your payment yet. I would recommend to sent us a quick email informing us about your date of payment, and via what method you completed the payment. When we can manually find your payment, your status will go to Processing (payment confirmed), and most likely later that day, or the next, to Preparing shipment, and then Complete. Thank you,
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