SandervG
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Posts posted by SandervG
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Would be fun if it was running on a battery pack and was moving around through the room spitting out auto-robots. (and get you a coffee while it is at it)
Or you could make it in a way that the prints would fall in a cabinet down in the display, available for grabs.
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That's what i do as well. Sometimes you want to keep an eye on that feeder or how your filament unravels.
This can be done at the same time as monitoring/using your UltiController when it is on the side.
And you can see everything just as good from the side as you can from the front
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Like a couple of people have stated, it should go in all the way.
But i know some people who use the head of this screw to 'lock down' the cartridge heater.
The point is; a tight fit is a good fit.
The orientation of the heater block is fine for single extrusion, but for dual extrusion you would need to change it.
If you would like to add dual fans you need to change it too.
I don't think you should worry about the cartridge heater melting away your fanduct.
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Sewing machine oil works very good yes, we use it in the head quarters as well.
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If it only and always happens with larger prints, i would also look into overheating of the motor or stepper driver.
Do you have all the heatsinks on them, and how about the fanduct on your electronics?
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The gradient can also come by heating itself, not necessarily overheating.
I do see some filament at the bottom of the brasstube, have you already fixed this leak?
Also, it is hard to tell, but is your Nozzle screwed in all the way to your alu heater block?
Looks like maybe there is a small gap in between.
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I agree that it is a very welcome upgrade, and personally i would rather have it seen released yesterday then tomorrow if you know what i mean.
Hopefully, on a short notice (weeks) we will be able to reveal more information about this subject that will answer a lot of questions. Right now, that is all i can say. So i would like to ask a little bit more of your patience
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I also always use a putty knife. A lot of the times the tape comes off, but that is easily replaced.
For me it is not a big issue if there are some remains of tape on the bottom, so i usually let them be.
Why we chose for Dual extrusion, is because a heated bed has been proven to have more technical challenges then might appear on first sight, for example the wooden frame, weight and the power it needs to run.
Of course a heated bed is easily put together, but we want to make it backwards compatible so it fits perfectly in
the wooden frame of the Ultimaker, without causing other difficulties or tons of other replacements.
We are working on it, don't worry.
Dual extrusion has been released now that Cura (although not yet fully>Dual material) offers a better support for it.
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Very nice color. Perhaps it is also a cool idea to paint the robot on the front in a slightly different color
I took a picture of a print i made during the weekend, single extrusion but with dual set up.
It definitely did not effect the print quality, so you should have no worries there.
I will probably post the photo later day.
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Hi Jim,
I am looking forward to hear about your findings with CodeMaven's advice.
I will inform if Daid is aware of a bug and if a fix is nearby.
Thanks,
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i have a few other tips for you:
Print at a lowest possible temperature
Print with as less infill as possible
Put the tape over the entire build platform, and have it run over the bottom (so don't cut it on the engraved markings).
Make sure the tape is pressed on the platform
Make sure your first layer is pressed in the tape
Make the corners of your print round, if possible.
Print with a raft, so the raft will warp instead of your print
In Cura we also have a new setting called Brim, which is suppose to help against warping.
Use blue painters tape on the bed and to wipe the tape with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol - found at any drug store).
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wow, looks razor sharp Ian! Good job.
Because it has so many open sides you are experiencing zero warping?
I can imagine if you want to put everything together you don't want any gaps in between the walls.
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Hi Greengecko,
I have just read your post + support ticket, and i can confirm you indeed need a signal cable with 2 temperature cables, 3 connectors in total. (also 1 for the fan).
I do know that it was also already included in rev3, not sure about rev 2.
Anyway, i will sent you a new one, which will hopefully arrive within a day or 2.
Have a nice day!
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In the past i had an inconsistent diameter and on occasion it was brittle, perhaps this has something to do with it.
However, the latest batch i received was remarkable better then the older ones.
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haha very cool! Is that laywood that you printed the body with?
Looks cool.
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Hi, if your status is at processing, this means we have not been able to confirm your payment yet.
I would recommend to sent us a quick email informing us about your date of payment, and via what method you completed the payment.
When we can manually find your payment, your status will go to Processing (payment confirmed), and most likely later that day, or the next, to Preparing shipment, and then Complete.
Thank you,
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I don't think you can un-melt your PEEK, so a fix would be to order a new one in the shop.
To find the cause, do you know if your blue led was burning while you were printing?
If it wasn't, your signal cable got disconnected, making it impossible to communicate the temperature to your electronics.
Resulting in infinite heating.
You could fix it by guiding the wires through the strain relief so it can not get disconnected again.
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In the beginning i also had a lot of underextrusion, turns out my fan (i have dual fans) was cooling my aluminum heater block. 'Funny' thing was that it didn't do this with single extrusion, but dropping down the fan-speed to ~100 instead of 255 helped and now i am getting pretty good results too.
Are you printing at 190°C?
You also sometimes need to manually feed the filament in the beginning of your print, as 1 nozzle starts with the filament retracted, and sometimes not enough is being pushed back in the hot end again.
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I 'always' use spraypaint, works very fast and is dry at the blink of an eye.
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Processing means we have not yet been able to confirm your payment.
We will only start preparing your order for shipment after we have been able to confirm the payment.
Sometimes the bank takes 1-2 days to transfer a payment, please have some patience.
If the status didn't change by tomorrow please feel free to sent us a note and we can manually try to find your payment.
Paypal usually shows up immediately if they don't flag it as suspicious.
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Also you should look at your fan, that it is properly cooling and print at approx 190°C at the regular speed.
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There have been some issues with the pulleys being off set but we always find a proper solution when we receive such a notification.
With the Ultimaker you receive the calibration tools to perfectly align your axis.
When you install the pulleys, you should replace the current black screws, with the silver ones that come in a package.
They have a better grip. Maybe after the first couple of hours printing you need to tighten them again, but then you should be set.
You should make sure the belts are parallel to your rods, and the short belts are tight.
This can be done by loosening the motor, push it down by hand and tighten it again.
The long belts also need to be tight, but not as tight as the short belts.
They can have some play.
If you find yourself in need during calibration, i would be happy to help!
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Hi Drayson,
Thank you for your post.
No problem, we are going to make that work.
Please contact me at support at Ultimaker.com for details, so we can create the shipment.
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Hi Kevin,
Perhaps you have a setting enabled like skirt, this creates an outline around your model.
Cura takes this into consideration, because this line has to fit on the build platform as well.
If you have nothing but the model i believe yours should fit.
Ultimaker Robot Logo covered by the Ulticontroller!
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Nice idea. How is the angle if you want to look at the screen.
Is everything visible when standing in front of the Ultimaker?