SandervG

I don't think you can un-melt your PEEK, so a fix would be to order a new one in the shop. To find the cause, do you know if your blue led was burning while you were printing? If it wasn't, your signal cable got disconnected, making it impossible to communicate the temperature to your electronics. Resulting in infinite heating. You could fix it by guiding the wires through the strain relief so it can not get disconnected again.

In the beginning i also had a lot of underextrusion, turns out my fan (i have dual fans) was cooling my aluminum heater block. 'Funny' thing was that it didn't do this with single extrusion, but dropping down the fan-speed to ~100 instead of 255 helped and now i am getting pretty good results too. Are you printing at 190°C? You also sometimes need to manually feed the filament in the beginning of your print, as 1 nozzle starts with the filament retracted, and sometimes not enough is being pushed back in the hot end again.

I 'always' use spraypaint, works very fast and is dry at the blink of an eye.

Processing means we have not yet been able to confirm your payment. We will only start preparing your order for shipment after we have been able to confirm the payment. Sometimes the bank takes 1-2 days to transfer a payment, please have some patience. If the status didn't change by tomorrow please feel free to sent us a note and we can manually try to find your payment. Paypal usually shows up immediately if they don't flag it as suspicious.

Also you should look at your fan, that it is properly cooling and print at approx 190°C at the regular speed.

There have been some issues with the pulleys being off set but we always find a proper solution when we receive such a notification. With the Ultimaker you receive the calibration tools to perfectly align your axis. When you install the pulleys, you should replace the current black screws, with the silver ones that come in a package. They have a better grip. Maybe after the first couple of hours printing you need to tighten them again, but then you should be set. You should make sure the belts are parallel to your rods, and the short belts are tight. This can be done by loosening the motor, push it down by hand and tighten it again. The long belts also need to be tight, but not as tight as the short belts. They can have some play. If you find yourself in need during calibration, i would be happy to help!

Hi Drayson, Thank you for your post. No problem, we are going to make that work. Please contact me at support at Ultimaker.com for details, so we can create the shipment.

Hi Kevin, Perhaps you have a setting enabled like skirt, this creates an outline around your model. Cura takes this into consideration, because this line has to fit on the build platform as well. If you have nothing but the model i believe yours should fit.

A solution in his case could have been, make the printbed 1cm smaller. We did not realize this, but we will set it straight with him. If, like you say, people care about the 205, then they should be careful (avoid) the first run wizard in combination with dual extrusion. Besides that, there is nothing Daid can do (in Cura), because by adding a 2nd nozzle, this takes up space. Nothing you can do about that. There are bugs in the dual extrusion pack though, it has been labeled experimental for a reason.

Hi Paul, congratulations, welcome to the community! The regular build instructions are meant for single extrusion. If you have the time and patience, i would recommend to get familiar with single extrusion first as this will give you better results at start and it is the basic set up you will get familiar with. Once you get the hang of it and you know your way around Cura, i would add the dual extrusion. The downside is, that it requires some patience (but single extrusion is no less fun, especially in the beginning i must add), and it would mean you have to take the print head apart again to install dual extrusion. It may not be the most convenient path to follow, but i think it will be the most motivating and rewarding path. Of course, it is totally up to you In any way I/we are available for guidance.

If you are just about to start printing (with an Ultimaker) i would recommend to start with single extrusion first. It is a fun process to get to know the machine and learn how to use it, but it is a process. My recommendation is that it is easier to learn printing with 1 extruder, and get familiar with Cura. Because dual extrusion is still experimental it requires some tweaking, so get familiar with the basic set up first, then enhance your set up with dual extrusion. At the moment support material is not yet supported by Cura, but dual colors is. You can use it for anyway you please, but it would serve its cause if it involved 2 colors ;-)

nice video, well done

I agree, most likely the iron cover of your thermocouple started wearing off, and now it is reading the temperature just outside of the aluminum heater block, where it is slightly colder. Hence the lower temperature. Have you recently had to disassemble your hot end, or remove the thermocouple by chance?

Not support it & didn't work for a while is the same in my book But good to know it works now. Thanks!

The holes shouldn't have any room for adjusting, because this would result in room for play, and end in an inaccurate wobbly machine. On rare occasions we have had a customer whose (for example) side panels had a slight deviation. Usually this is recognized during or before the assembly, so it could be replaced by a new panel without to much efforts. Of course i offer you this same solution if it turns out the frame has a deviation. If you are in need of a new frame please contact me via support - homepage. I would be happy to help. If it turns out the panels are fine and something needs/needed tweaking during assembly i would be happy to read about it here and offer you assistance.

You may also want to make your build platform 1cm smaller (Cura > Preferences > Max depth 195) if you intend to do first run wizards. If you don't the 2nd nozzle will run over the 2 back screws. That is not mandatory, but for some it can be interesting i think. I am not sure, but is Netfabb supporting retraction? I know it didn't always support it, never actually heard they did but i can't imagine they haven't figured it out by now..

Hi Drayson, I would also suggest to have some heavy guys push it down and tighten everything again. Can you see if the right panel maybe has some off set? If it does, and you are planning on disassembling it, we could also sent you a new right panel (although i can understand that would not be your most favorite option). If you have never experienced difficulties during printing, you might also make the call to leave it like this and print some foot pads for your Ultimaker, and make the front right one a little bit thicker. How is your printhead compared to the build platform?

Is it because of wipe, or a different feature? (or multiple). It could be worth checking the latest version of Cura, i heard some good stories about it handling big (huge) files. However, dual extrusion for support is not yet supported.

Lol, this reminds me of a topic i once saw. Something about showing of your prints with your pet. I believe Daid also had some pictures with his cat? :smile:

In the beginning i aaaaalways used Kisslicer, but now Cura has improved in the way it has i have never used it again. Are there any reasons to look at KS again?

Hi Wupsje, I have heard that tip before, and it is a good one. Thanks for sharing!

Are you working on windows or mac? In any case you should use the latest version of Cura, which is 13.06.4 for windows. In preferences you need to select 2 extruders. You need to restart Cura, and upload new firmware to the Ultimaker. When you are going to slice a model, you have to make sure to set a temperature to both hot ends. Because with dual extrusion, you can still make single extrusion prints, so the option is available to leave 1 hot end disabled. Are you sure you have connected the heater cables in the correct slots?

Have you measured your filament? It rarely is 3mm, it usually is 2.85mm for example. This makes a big difference in the extrusion. Being 0.01mm is no biggie, but 0.2mm is a lot. I would remeasure that first, changing shell thickness can also help but that probably won't be the key-factor.

I believe Owen means wall thickness. You can also set this in Cura. Can you make some screenshots of the settings you have been using?

I have my Ultimaker for almost over a year and it has been used quite a lot. I never had issues with motors getting loose very easy, or screw holes wearing off. I do have washers under the screws, maybe that is a good idea if you don't have it already. Except for the previous mentioned tips, you could also have checked your axis for alignment. If it would be off, or the pulleys would not be parallel with the axis, this could also create more resistant when the printhead will approach the frame/sides.