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Hi @Andrew3DP, thank you for your message. Have you checked out the instructions and tips we've created in our knowledgebase regarding ER58? And if you switch materials, it is not necessary to do a manual bed level if you have active leveling enabled.

Hi @KarenB, perhaps it would help if you specify what type of 3D printer it is. I see you have labeled it as UM2, but I am pretty sure that is not an Ultimaker 2.. Thanks,

An opportunity to get to know each other better is always welcome. If you have a moment to spare we would love to hear which materials you are using mostly, and which materials you are currently not using but you would like to learn more about. It would also be interesting to learn if you are using the material profiles available in the Ultimaker Marketplace, even if it is only as a starting point. This could help us create useful content that elaborates on those materials you have an interest in, align our material alliance to your needs and develop a more accurate feeling for what our users are working with in general. If you have any questions or want to add some additional information, please feel free to add below.

First things first; what is ESD? ESD (electrostatic discharge) is defined as the transfer of electric charge, which takes place when two objects which have been charged to different electric potentials are brought in contact with one another. Or when two objects which have different electric potentials due to static induction are brought in contact with one another. A material is considered ESD safe when it reduces this transfer of static electricity that can cause problems or dangerous situations, like when electrostatic sensitive parts, flammable liquids or gases are handled. Often an electrostatic discharge is accompanied by a visible spark. What does ESD safe material do? The purpose of ESD safe material is to avoid any electrostatic discharge that could affect components surrounding it. FYI: Selecting a material for ESD safety In order to make it ESD safe additional properties are added to base materials, such as ABS, PETg or PC. Therefore, it is important to select a base material that fits your application and choose a variant that is ESD safe. The difference between antistatic, insulating and ESD. These concepts are sometimes easily mixed up. What is which? An antistatic material prevents sparks and explosions, an insulating material protects you against electric shocks, while ESD is product protection. What is important when printing with ESD safe materials? Selecting the right ESD safe materials for your application is key. Another important topic is the print profile and print process. The combination of the material and the print profile make something ESD safe (So not only the material itself!). Research has shown that print settings have a major influence on the "degree" of ESD safety you get from the material. The material companies that provide ESD safe materials on our marketplace have tested their materials extensively to ensure that customer gets the correct ESD safe properties after printing. Which materials are available via our material alliance that are ESD safe? Kimya ABS-ESD Natural is ideal for applications that require protection against electrostatic discharge. It is impact-resistant, easy to print, and has a high stiffness. This casing for an electronic card was created with spaces for plugins. It was printed in Kimya's ABS-ESD Natural, and protects the card inside from other electronic components that may be nearby LEHVOSS Group LUVOCOM 3F PAHT® CF 9891 BK is a high-temperature, carbon fiber-reinforced, polyamide-based material. It provides high strength, stiffness, and minimized water uptake. It has a tensile strength of up to 130 MPa and is temperature-resistant up to 160 °C. LEHVOSS Group LUVOCOM® 3F PET CF 9780 BK is the easiest carbon fiber-filled PET material to print on the market, with excellent mechanical properties, including high Z-layer strength. It has a tensile strength of up to 80 MPa, is temperature resistant up to 125 °C, and features low water uptake. Clariant’s ESD-safe PET-G is based on unique fillers and optimized for FFF printing to address varied ESD-safe needs. It is strong, tough, and chemical-resistant with high impact strength. It also features reduced thermo-oxidative degradation. Do you want to see which other materials we have in our material alliance? Use our filter to find out which other properties you can choose from.

That shouldn't be necessary. With the correct instructions and a recovery image you should be able to recover it yourself.

Hi @galileo616, looks like your printer crashed. I don't think it is related to troubleshooting the Air Manager though. But nothing we can't fix. If you get in touch with your reseller they should be able to provide you with specific instructions on how to recover your Ultimaker and get back to 3D printing. Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback @Gfrankl, at least it looks like we found why you got the error. Hopefully it won't come back. If it does, perhaps you can share a picture on how it is connected and we might have some tips. There should be some clips that make sure the cables should be pretty secure. Good luck!

Hello, I would kindly like to ask you to create a ticket here and our support engineers will get back in touch with you. We see this error message rarely so we would like to get in touch with you, see the logs and try to help you. Thanks,

Hi @Gfrankl and @galileo616, thank you for your responses. The ER80 error message is shown when connection to the Air Manager is lost. The Ultimaker S5 then stops printing prevent any harm done at its internal components due to excessive heat. If you found your printer on the regular home page it is possible you had a power loss. Otherwise something is going wrong in the connection. If this is a reoccurring issue and you want support I would kindly ask you to create a ticket here and our support engineers will get back in touch with you. Thank you for your time and our apologies for the inconvenience.

Hi @eileenmake, yea those are 2 different versions. You are probably better off ordering the new cable too that goes along with it. With the new cable you should be able to connect it very easily without soldering. The partnumber of the cable is: 1183. Hope this helps!

Hi @NunoMPG, thank you for your message. Similar as the post you are responding to; can you provide some more information regarding your Ultimaker S5 or why you can not see it? Is this 10 minute disconnect pretty normal in your experience or does it also stay connected longer at different times? Are you connected to the internet via wifi or ethernet? And is your S5 the host to multiple printers or are you running 1 Ultimaker S5? These could all be factors influencing your connectivity. We are aware that the connectivity can still be improved, and we hope to provide another step towards better connectivity in the upcoming firmware upgrade.

Happy to hear you are satisfied with the product! I would like to distinguish a nuance between a hardware/product failure and a workflow where we've identified an element which can be improved/optimised. In any case the outcome is that it has our attention and our engineers are working on it. @Andrew3DP, I believe that in the next firmware release we have included a shorter priming sequence. Perhaps you can find some comfort in the knowledge that this is underway 🙂 Thank you, have a great day.

Hi, which model are you trying to print exactly? The Prusa face shield seems to have a volume of 200.2mm*150.2mm (X/Y), partially because of a large bottom plate. The Ultimaker 3 is advertised to have a build volume of 200mm. If you trim down the bottom plate by 1mm it should fit.

Ok, could you perhaps share a picture of your hot end to see if anything is out of the ordinary? What diameter is the filament? Can you share some pictures of the prints that were successful?

Hi @Johnniej, welcome to the community! Can you give us some more information regarding which type of filaments you bought, besides the color? For example, blue PLA exists, but so does blue ABS and CPE. Same goes for many other colors. And it is the type of material that defines the printing temperature over which color it is. So perhaps you are not printing at the correct temperature. Alternatively, it could be that your nozzle is clogged, but if 1 materials is printing correctly and the other is not, then I am inclined to think you're not using the right settings for that material. Thanks

Hi @eileenmake, can you elaborate on what printer you have and what information you are looking for? Are you unsure about one specific step of installing a heated bed or are you completely clueless where to even start?

Hello, can you provide some more information regarding your Ultimaker S5 or why you can not see it? Does it never work, or only sometimes? Are you connected to the internet? How do you try to access it? Thank you,

Hello, your content has been approved almost immediately but you just didn't get a reply yet. Have you tried default acceleration and jerk, and just lower your printing speed to ~40mm/s?

Hi @ericand1, what kind of issues are you having or what do you need help with? Is it related to printing for Covid? Otherwise please open a new thread to find advice. Secondly, please write your messages here in English. If you prefer to speak French that is also fine. We have a pretty active French section on our forum.

That is right! Long time since this was brought up. Very happy to hear you figured out why your prints didn't come out right, and it is a good idea to swap to original bowden tubes. The length, the internal diameter and the material they're made off are important factors. Enjoy 3D printing.

Hi, the best route would be to get in touch with the medical facility you are printing your model for and ask which material properties are important or if there are any objections with ABS.

That doesn't look good indeed @gisley. Can you give us some more information like which model you are trying to load, which material you are using? Perhaps a screenshot from Cura could also help. It looks like the first layer seems to be alright, but half a cm up something intervened with your extrusion or some layers went missing.

Hi @NK2W, thank you for your message. After you had the ER52 error message, did you only reboot or did you also follow the other instructions written here? Did the other prints fail because you continued to get an ER52 or because of a different reason? With some more information I'm sure we'll be able to provide you with better tips to get back into 3D printing with the entire pro bundle. Thank you for your time,

Thanks for sharing. Do you have any instructions on how to use them or in combination with what other print or material?

Hello! So you are in the market to buy an Ultimaker? Great idea! Ultimaker 3D printers are considered real workhorses, so looking for a second hand Ultimaker makes sense if you are starting or expanding your 3D printing capabilities. In order to ensure a satisfying conclusion for both parties involved, here are a few general tips: If possible, look for a 3D printer available in your local area. Being able to see it in real life and avoid shipping with a courier is usually in your advantage. If a pickup is not possible and the printer needs to be shipped the seller can contact a local Ultimaker reseller and they should be able to provide original Ultimaker packaging to ensure safe passage. Before you commit to buying a 3D printer, it is recommended to see some pictures of the printer itself (like the print head, X/Y axles, build plate, print hours) and some 3D prints. If there are any mechanical defects, they usually surface in print quality. Unsure about the quality? Ask our community for their opinion. When all is to your satisfaction and the final step is transaction, we recommend to use a payment platform that provides buyer protection, like Paypall. Are you looking to sell your Ultimaker? We’re sorry to see you go. Hopefully we’ll be able to welcome you back into our community again at a later moment!