SandervG

Where do you measure your model? It can be that the edge of a corner or the bottom might be slightly fatter than the 'rest of the walls/model'. So if the corners seem to bulge instead of being a sharp corner, this may seem like the entire dimension accuracy is relatively low, while in fact we could try to get that corner in better shape. For example, by slowing down the print.

Smart! ?

Doesn't he need something that might is able to withstand hot water too, something more heat resistant?

Hi Everyone, Thank you all so much for your entries and not the least, your patience! It took us a little bit longer than usual (and intended) to evaluate all designs, but I'm happy to say we are ready now. @Stefania Dinea and I were again very pleased with the quality of entries and we're convinced they will be very helpful for many architects. Hopefully some of them will decide to share some pictures back of their work where they used some. Now, who are the lucky winners? @kmanstudios , congratulations! You went above and beyond the requirements once again! You win 10 reels of filament ? You have submitted a widely varying set of figurines which cover many environments. They are on scale, easy to print, dynamic and realistic. Number two: This was really close, but @SarpSusuzer won the second prize! Congratulations! In our opinion, we thought your models might be a little bit thick, but this can easily be fixed in Cura or any other tool. We were also convinced they would look good in many architect projects. A lot to choose from. We would also like to thank @geert_2 and @ragav . @geert_2 , thank you for your contribution. It was a close call. We want to thank you for your detailed explanatory readme file that you added which gives extra valuable information when using the models. When a user is not very familiar with 3D printing yet, this could be the difference between a successful print and not so. Hopefully in future contests others will also include such guides. We also liked your models, but they seemed to just show a little bit less organic dynamics than kmanstudio's and SarpSusuzer's. @ragav , thank you for your contribution as well. You had some really original contributions but unfortunately we didn't see a buste of Dragonball Z's Goku appear in any architectural projects real quick. We definitively appreciate your input and we hope that in a future contest you will take the context at heart and join us again ? Have a great day!

@cloakfiend regarding the support interface: If you enable support in Cura and continue to use Extruder 1 for support but only change 'Support interface extruder' to Extruder 2 you will see the following area to be printed with PVA (purple)

?

Your excitement is contagious ?

I think what Kman tried to show is the support interface setting. It does not really reduce your overal print time that much as support still is printed, except it only prints the few layers between your model and the supports in PVA. The result is that you use less PVA so soaking it in water is much faster, and less PVA is necessary (which is generally a bit more expensive). This setting only makes sense if you have no 'internal' support and only on the outside.

The upside of having a separate stand is, that you could take out the print core and clean it while your Ultimaker continuous to print. If you have to clean it in the 3D printer it prevents you from using it basically. Which could cost you precious time.

Great idea! @DidierKlein , didn't you also work on something like this?

Good tip! Would it be an idea to change the title of this tip into something like 'Optimize buildvolume' ? I can imagine someone who would need these tips would look for something like that. (the problem, not the solution). Just a thought ?

Sorry to hear that @slspencer . Hopefully you'll find a moment in your time to join the next contest ? You're certainly more than welcome to participate. For now, this content is closed. I want to thank everyone for participating. Once again, the entries look great. Both the submitted models but also the thought and expertise that went in there creating a recognizable and model on such a small scale. @Stefania Dinea and I will closely evaluate all entries and we'll let you know in a few days time who won this Entourage | people contest.

That is unfortunate to hear, we're sorry. Have you tried inserting that print core in slot 1? Do you get the same message, and we can suspect the print core of malfunctioning, or does it work fine in slot 1 and your slot 2 might not reading correctly?

How long did you wait? It usually takes a couple of seconds before it turns on.

Hi 3DRobolab, do you use an Ultimaker or a different type of 3D printer?

Hi Bast_91, thank you for your update. I'm happy to hear you found the reason, but I'm not sure if drilling is the best way forward. Can you share a photo of the congested PVA? Perhaps contacting your reseller for help or instructions could prevent unnecessary damage and issues down the road.

Update; I've sent an update to @asb and offered to help him set up a static IP. I will do so in 'private', because it involves entering dev mode which has its own set of risks and we prefer if no one does it. But if necessary, guided.

Hi @Bast_91, unfortunately I don't speak German so hopefully you can understand. Can you check if there is still material on the reel, on the backside of your Ultimaker? If it is empty, your Ultimaker should give you this message. If there is still filament, can you press continue? What happens? PVA can get softer from moisture, so perhaps it got soft and the feeder grinded away in your filament. If you open the lever and pull it back slightly you should be able to so. If this has happened, you should cut off the filament until before this cave and feed it again. Hope this helps! I'll copy a (google) translate of my response below: "leider spreche ich kein deutsch so hoffentlich kann man das verstehen. Können Sie überprüfen, ob sich noch Material auf der Rolle auf der Rückseite Ihres Ultimaker befindet? Wenn es leer ist, sollte Ihr Ultimaker Ihnen diese Nachricht geben. Wenn es noch Filament gibt, können Sie weiter drücken? Was geschieht? PVA kann durch Feuchtigkeit weicher werden, also wurde es vielleicht weich und der Feeder wurde in Ihrem Filament weggeschliffen. Wenn Sie den Hebel öffnen und leicht zurückziehen, sollten Sie es können. Wenn dies passiert ist, solltest du den Faden vor dieser Höhle abschneiden und erneut füttern. Hoffe das hilft! Ich werde eine (Google) Übersetzung meiner Antwort unten kopieren:"

Hard to say because I'm not that familiar with those materials. It feels like you're mostly haunted by material properties and therefore I would say that fan/cooling/heating would be the fastest settings to experiment with. But usually there are multiple roads leading to Rome ?

When I check out your Cura profile you uploaded some time back, I see your heated bed is actually set to 70ºC. Excessive heat can also lead to walls caving in on the bottom of the print. I would recommend to bring it back to 60ºC. Some of the other superficial artifacts you see might be caused by cooling. Personally I don't have much experience with Pro PLA or esun material, but it looks like as if the infill shows through the outer walls. It could be that the walls shrink some due to cooling, and that is why infill starts showing. It could explain why a higher infill shows it less, the space between the infill is smaller, which gives it less room to shrink. For your model, I think you could also use a layer height of 200 microns. It may help your overhangs, and the rest of the walls which just go straight up should also not be a problem. Do you have any Ultimaker PLA lying around by chance that you could try? Good luck!

I have not heard of glass plates wearing off. It is possible that some materials damage the glass, like pulling off a shard of glass, when you don't use the proper adhesives. And these are bigger than micro pits. @kmanstudios , do you have any references to where you might have read/seen this? Have you tried both sides of the glass plates? This has not always been a problem for everyone, but perhaps you could try flipping it (again). Curious to see how your next prints will go @model_dude

Thanks everyone for the submissions, they look amazing! Just a few more hours until this contest closes. Will we see any more entries?

Here are also some more tips ?

But the active leveling prior to the print, should not ruin your calibration. @Ryan8696 , can you explain how you manually calibrate, incl the Z offset calibration? Are you sure you have calibrated it correctly, manually, if the first following print you do is not successful? Secondly, could you post a video of the auto leveling that happens before your print starts, where it supposedly messes up your calibrated print cores? Perhaps we can catch something that doesn't work correctly. Thank you for your time.

Hi @Ryan8696, can you explain how you have calibrated your print cores? During regular calibration, the Ultimaker S5 first levels print core 1 (I assume it is your AA) on different points on the bed. Then when this is done, you're asked to calibrate print core 2 once manually using a calibration card. Have you followed these steps? These should set the defined calibration for both print cores. If you set automatic leveling to Always, it should also measure both print cores prior to a print. Can you follow these steps, and let me know how it goes? If it still doesn't work, can you shoot a short video during the automatic leveling so we can see if anything doesn't work as it should? Thanks!