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Hello @ckelly, thank you for your post and welcome to the community! It is possible to continue with a different color, but it might not be as straight-forward as you might think. (although I also wouldn't call it complicated). The Material Station will always try to finish a print with a new spool of the same material and the same color, it will not just switch to a different color because you have sliced a model to be printed in (in your case) ABS Orange, and you might not be pleased to find out tomorrow that the upper half of your print is blue. Sometimes it might be fine, but most often it probably isn't. What you can do, if you have a spool of a different color ABS, is to either remove the NFC chip it has one (remove the cardboard insert from the side) and select in the interface that it is ABS Orange, or you could remove the NFC and insert the NFC from your ABS Orange and put that one instead, and the material station will read it as ABS Orange. Hope this helps, have a great day!

Of course! 😄 🧔🏻 It has never been easier when all barbershops are closed for half a year 😉 That is totally understandable, and feel free to always post those questions here on the forum. I can check with our material engineers if we have data on or a decent indication on what you are looking for. Yes, that is why I said in my previous response (perhaps you missed it): 'That's why I asked some of our material engineers and they said for the material itself you can expect a shrinkage of 0.2 - 0.4%.' This does not mean the only shrinkange or dimensional inaccuracy you will encounter is 0.2 - 0.4%, this is purely the shrinkage of the material you should account for. Hope this helps!

Hi, have you tried different sliced models, to rule out an error in the g-code? Preferably one that has worked before? Is the feeder still (trying to) feed filament to the print core or has it also stopped moving? If it is still moving, is it grinding or do you detect any other reason why the filament isn't being extruded? Could it be that there is an error in the 3D model? Perhaps you can include some images of what your first layer looks like when it stops extruding, sometimes there are some clues as to why it stopped in there.

Hi @martijnc80, if you followed the instructions to check the system and decoupler, but found no material I would recommend you to get in touch with our support team. You can submit a ticket via this link! Good luck!

Any particular reason why they won't allow Digital Factory? If it is due to security, we've also enabled a firewall option. You can read more about that option here 🙂 Happy to hear you got it back to work! Happy printing!

Say no more, I also haven't been in the office for over a year! But I might again next week for the first time, exciting! How did you do with the finished prints, others were in the office? I know some companies also allowed their staff to bring Ultimaker's home, or sometimes even bought additional for this reason. Good luck with updating, let us know how it goes!

Hi Martijn, thank you for your message and welcome to the community! Is it possible that a piece of filament is stuck somewhere in the bowden tubes connected to Bay A? Please visit this article for help how to check and possibly resolve. I don't think you should manually try to feed material when your machine is powered off, always use the options in the menu to load or unload material. It automatically unloads material after a print is finished so it can pick the correct material for your new print job when you send one. Hope this helps!

Hi, I don't think it is relevant that your printer is part of a group. But your comment did make me think that you are not on the latest firmware yet; in May we introduced firmware 6.4 which allowed users to use a new feature in the Digital Factory called; Digital Library. This would eliminate the need of groups and should be an improvement to your workflow. Perhaps consider updating your firmware while you are at it too. You can read more about it here. Good luck!

Hello, have you tried doing a factory reset and reset your printer settings? From your post I can't immediately detect anything you did wrong, but that should probably help you to install the Air Manager again and get back to where you were. Good luck!

Hi @LePaul, hope you are well! If you would visit the CPE TDS you see that CPE is said to have good dimensional stability, but the thermal shrinkage metric is empty. So that still doesn't tell us much. That's why I asked some of our material engineers and they said for the material itself you can expect a shrinkage of 0.2 - 0.4%. You probably also know that the exact shape or size of the model is also relevant, and the speed at which you decide to print something. But hopefully these percentages will tell you that the shrinkage of the material itself is not so grand. Let me know if you have any further questions!

Hello, We are keeping the virtual showroom open for a little bit longer! Not for our enjoyment, but yours! So ideally we would want you and your colleagues to visit it occasionally. Which raises the questions; What type of content or what unique event would make you visit it again? If you haven't visited our virtual showroom yet and this post made you curious? You can via this link.

Hi @geert_2, thanks. Great questions! Unfortunately I don't know the answers by heart but I've shared them with our product experts and will let you know when I hear back.

If a (defect) collet damages the bowden tube it would indeed be recommended to make sure the teeth of the new collet have a decent part of the bowden tube to grip into. Because cutting a bowden tube does create room for some other issues when done incorrectly, and since a new bowden tube is on its way to @broseph anyway, I would recommend to install the new tube when he gets it.

I must admit, that is a pretty good picture of a collet! 🙂 But it's still quite difficult to say if it is good or not.. at least it seems like it has 4 blades. Do you have the flow sensor disabled? With the flow sensor enabled, I would suspect that you would get a notification on your machine before it started to grind. Did you also use the instructions here on how to clean and put the feeder back together?

Ultimaker is turning 10 years old and that means it is story telling time! What better way to capture these stories as via the podcast series Talking Additive. Join host Matt Griffin and Ultimaker co-founder Siert Wijnia in conversation as they look back at Ultimaker’s foundation, and several stories of its early transformation. Together, they will explore 2010-2014, traveling through the evolution of the business from the Protobox and Ultimaker Original, to the major leaps forward with the Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 3. Curious what it was like in the early days, as a start-up? Listen to Episode 25 - Ultimaker turns 10: A look back "Change is the only thing that is constant, and let's embrace that" Next up; watch for a series of Ultimaker Turns 10 Talking Additive Mini Episodes, from #1-#10! Check out these Bonus Episodes to hear more short interviews featuring the company’s "first-year" team members, co-founders, and early collaborators.

If your bowden tube pops out, I think there is less resistance for the material to just go free out there in the free world where the tube disconnected, than there is to push through the nozzle. So it makes sense that if this happened, your nozzle stopped extruding. I don't think it makes sense to try again. Did you ever inspect the inside of the collet? Can you see 4 equally sized and angled small metal blades? If this has happened before, the filament that was sitting in your print core waiting to be extruded before the bowden tube popped out, might have been sitting there for some time being heated and heated. You might want to clean your print cores before you try a new print with new collet + bowden tube, to ensure you are not running into a clog that has been building up from these endeavours.

Hello, it is possible that the collet is the problem. Alternatively to ordering a new collet / tube, your reseller might have been able to ship you a new one if your collet is not working properly. It has 4 metal teeth on the inside which bite into the bowden tube and keep it in place, if they are bent or missing they have less grip and its possible they can't hold the bowden tube in place. When your collet is fine, but something else created so much force that it pushed your bowden tube out of the collet you could shorten the bowden tube because the area where the collets previously bit into the bowden tube might be scraped, so it will have less grip. You can't endlessly shorten it though, since it will change the inner tension in the bowden tube (curvature) and filament extrusion parameters are calculated with a standard bowden tube length in mind. Most likely, you just need a new collet (and maybe a new bowden tube?) and that should solve your issues!

Hi @StevenD90s thank you for your message. Happy to hear the new firmware seems to have eliminated your woes. Let us know how it goes and keep up the good work!

Hi @joel_peppa_pig, thank you for your comment and welcome to the community! If you are curious about the difference between our printers we have comparison sheets on our product pages. What separates Ultimaker from a lot of other brands is that we not only develop a printer, but also our own software (Ultimaker Cura) and the largest material portfolio out there. This consists of various Ultimaker materials, but even more materials from our ecosystem partners for which print profiles are developed so you can load the material, load the print profile and no further tweaking is required to start. I think a good way to describe where our products are, is at the fine line between reliability and flexibility/freedom. Ultimaker develops not only a printer, but an entire platform that can offer you the most integrated and versatile experience. The platform we are developing is most tailored towards business needs and its operators. What do you want to use 3D printing for?

Hi everyone, looks like you didn't get a reply from Ultimaker yet in this thread! Our apologies for the inconvenience. We have rolled out several firmware updates since the first post which addresses several of the issues mentioned so I trust most of them have been resolved by now (from earlier in the thread), if not - please let me know! I also see some comments regarding the use of Ultimaker PVA. I think it is pretty well known that PVA is a difficult material to print with, due to its sensitivity due to moisture. The Ultimaker Material station should help with that, but it is still possible that it can break somewhere between the spool and print core. This can have a few reasons and we have been tackling many via firmware updates. One of the reasons we can't tackle via firmware, and that has to do with the knurled wheel design. We have developed a new one that should make using PVA much more reliable. If you have difficulties printing with PVA, please get in touch with us via a support ticket. @Trlby How is it going with your Ultimaker nowadays? Please let me know if you need any further support. @StevenD90s Please see my above message regarding PVA. Which firmware were you on? We launched a new firmware yesterday with improve deprime parameters. Perhaps those might help, instead of going back a version.

Hi @Gero, great question! So great, we actually covered it in a support article 🙂 The article might be best summarised using the last paragraph: "Unless you require the specific chemical resistance of CPE, it is very likely that you would prefer to use PETG instead. You will benefit from improved printability, while retaining or exceeding the mechanical properties of the printed part." Make sure to read the article if you want to know more!

Hi! We’re proud to announce that we’re adding PETG to our list of materials, along with the print profiles for optimal print results. PETG is not just any material, we think it has the capabilities and specifications to become the new go-to material. An honor that belonged to (Tough) PLA for a long time. Available in a variety of colors, including transparent, translucent and fluorescent, it’s perfectly suited for a wide range of applications, thanks it’s properties like good printablility, toughness, chemical resistance, wear resistance and temperature resistance. Why would you use Ultimaker PETG? It’s for anyone – novice or expert. Ultimaker PETG is one of the easiest-to-use 3D printing materials on the market. With good adhesion and print profiles – including engineering intent profiles – anyone can quickly and easily start 3D printing with Ultimaker PETG It enables you to unlock the widest range of technical applications. Compared to PLA and Tough PLA, Ultimaker PETG unlocks the widest range of technical applications, offering the printability of PLA, but with the industrial properties you need. This enables you to create a wide range of industrial parts, tools, and prototypes. Ultimaker PETG offers the ideal balance of properties for Ultimaker users in industrial environments, with good all-around visual, functional, and mechanical properties that can withstand environmental influences such as wear, chemicals, and warmer temperatures It sets the standard for enterprise-grade, industrial use. Ultimaker PETG is one of the most affordable technical 3D printing materials. It is also perfectly suited for different industrial environments – versatile, safe, easy to print, and available in many colors. Together, this makes Ultimaker PETG easy to deploy across your organization – meaning fewer changeovers and increased standardization Curious about the Ultimaker PETG? Read more about it in our blog Download the PETG spec sheet here

We’re happy to announce that firmware 6.4 is released today for our Ultimaker S-line 3D printers. With it comes increased reliability and compatibility with our newest Ultimaker material; PETG. Release notes: Increased reliability – Improved deprime parameters will reduce the chances of getting certain errors due to material movement for the S-line Pro Bundle, known as ER34, ER35 and ER80. PETG compatibility – This firmware contains the print profile and allows printing with our newest go-to material; PETG. Reboot button on fatal errors – It is now possible to reboot a printer using the touchscreen interface when you ran into a fatal error Digital Factory connection prevents if host of a printer group – Grouping printers is no longer supported. Connecting a printer to the Digital Factory will automatically remove it from the group it was in. If a printer is the host of a group, it must first dissolve the group before it can get connected. And we also fixed some bugs: Added delay between ER34 occurrence – This should lead to more success in recovery from the error code, leading to a decrease in fatal error occurrence Added delay between ER80 occurrence - This should lead to more success in recovery from the error code, leading to a decrease in fatal error occurrence Fixed a bug for Digital Factory leading to repeated error messages - Error messages were wrongly displayed multiple times in the Digital Factory. This is fixed Ready to use firmware 6.4? USB Update (.swu file): o Ultimaker S5-R1 o Ultimaker S5-R2 o Ultimaker S3 Recovery image (.img file): o Ultimaker S5-R1.img o Ultimaker S5-R2.img o Ultimaker S3.img

Hi @axislab, thank you for your post. It is true. Your research is also correct, we started out with white slider blocks, but then replaced them by black ones. But we managed to get fix what was wrong with the first white ones, and now the latest slider blocks are white again 🙂

Hi @Nicko_Airbus and @kevinmoore1337, thank you for your message. I would like to ask you to submit a ticket to us via our ticketing system, linking to this thread or describing the issue you have with PVA/filament breaking in your material station. We probably have a solution for you. Hope this helps, have a great day!