SandervG

@Melka, did you notice we switched to google search a couple of months ago? So far feedback has been pretty good. Let me know what you think of it, I think it works pretty good

Hi @Mbmast, thank you for your post and sharing your feedback with us! We have been using google search for a couple of months now, and most responses have been pretty good so far. We choose google because well, if there is one thing they are good at it is searching for stuff You can use similar commands as you would use with google regularly. For example, use 'allintitle:' if you want to search for titles only. Use ' "alternatives for ABS" ' if you want to search specifically for those words in that order. Hopefully it helps and you will be able to find the content you are looking for

Hi @Ronan, thank you for your message. Ohh, must not have been a pretty sight to walk into. I'm happy to hear you were able to put the rods back in place, which seemed to have worked. Are you sure the slider blocks do not show some kind of crack? This could reduce the amount of force which is necessary to make it 'drop' the rods. Can they easily be pushed out now, after you put them back in? In a normal scenario, this must not be possible of course. It could be that for some reason during the print, the head repeatedly ran into a part on the buildplate which lead to a rod getting out of its socket. With good slider blocks the chance this happens would look very small to me, so if there was a crack in one of them it could be more likely. Alternatively, could there have been a collision with the switch dock or something? In any case, regarding a calibration, I would run the switch dock calibration, and calibrate the Z stage again, just to be sure. The margins between a good and bad layer adhesion are small. When the Ultimaker 3 is turned off, can you easily with your hand move the print head around? No uncommon friction coming from the rods anywhere? Looking forward hearing from you,

Hi @Eirini92, thank you for your message and welcome to the forums! We have some additional information for our partners and resellers available. Would you be so kind to send me a direct message with what it is you need exactly, and to what reseller you belong? I will make sure you get the information you need! Thank you for your time!

Ha Roy, Bedankt voor je bericht. Heb je een 'echte' Ultimaker Original of is de hele machine samengesteld uit onderdelen die je zelf hebt ingekocht? Indien je third party onderdelen hebt, heb je deze alternatieve firmware bekeken? - Ik heb ook je vraag naar het Nederlandse deel verplaatst, omdat je deze eerste instantie in het Engelse deel hebt geplaatst. Als je je post daar opnieuw wil plaatsen, wil je dit dan in het Engels doen? Dat vergroot ook de kans dat je een goede reactie krijgt. bedankt!

That is what the community is for <3

If you have an Ultimaker 2, and not the +, I would recommend to upgrade using an extrusion upgrade pack. It also contains some other crucial parts which will make your entire Ultimaker like new. The feeder is among others a very welcome upgrade. Why would you not be able to print PC? For some materials that require high temperatures, a door to shield of the front is recommended. Ultimaker has a solution with its advanced 3D printing kit, but there is a range of options you can choose from in this regard. Including, a simple cardboard cover you made yourself.

Hi @sgofferj, welcome to the forums and thank you for your post. Our apologies that approving your post was delayed. The queue was cluttered with a lot of spam messages in which yours was hidden. @Nallath, do you know the answer? Thanks!

Good idea!

Hi @Aartek, thank you for your message. It sounds like you are at the start of a very interesting journey. Hopefully, we'll be able to provide you with lots of help. Do the walls of your model have a certain thickness? If they are too thin, Cura won't detect them as printable and ignore during slicing. Did you make one solid mesh out of your model?

Hi @Cablet, thank you for your message. The smell really depends on what filaments you use. PLA barely has a smell, and when it does it is often not considered as very unpleasant. ABS on the other hand has a pretty bad small, of which is also proven it can contain hazardous particles (also, in contrary to PLA). There are a lot of different filaments available, and what smell it generates depends on what you choose. Do you have any idea of what type of models you will be making? Will it be prototypes, visual tools, functional parts, etc. This heavily influences what material would suit your need best. Alternatively, if it will be positioned in the same area as you will be working, it is recommended to install some form of ventilation (that will also give you some more freedom in choice of material without being bothered by it). There are complete covers that take care of everything for you. Looking forward hearing from you!

Nice, I like the sound where it is going

If I google 'Humunculi' I am being corrected into 'Homunculi' and it tells me it means little man / a microscopic but fully formed human being from which a fetus was formerly believed to develop. I am curious to see/read some background info on what exactly I am looking at (but it looks pretty good, and I think you did a good job on the paint! Was it hard to paint over Nylon?)

Happy that you got the help you needed @Fabreax!

That should be one of the perks of being open source, that users have a high level of independence. It is definitely an interesting area to explore, and may lead to greater things!

20% machines does not only sound nice, it is necessary for a healthy future of Ultimaker. Developments in Cura cost money, so does maintaining our community platform and the service we provide to you, our customers. I don't think the statement 'not everyone hacks, so who cares' is completely fair. Decisions have to be made with a lot of metrics taken into account. You are one of them (my favorite one), but not the only one. Having to choose one, does not automatically discredit the other option. Cost is always a factor to respect. We're sorry if it leaves a bad taste in your mouth. Hopefully, this is just a hurdle that can be bypassed with some wits. Again, it does not mean we don't care. We do.

Are you solely and exclusively tied to ABS or can you also use other materials like Nylon, CPE or maybe even PLA? Depending on what characteristics you need of ABS (strength, heat resistant), perhaps there are other alternatives that do work with PVA. ABS had the advantage that it was around when 3D printing took off, so it made quite a name for itself in the scene, but by now there are a lot of very interesting alternatives (which work better!)

Hi @Semus, thank you for sharing your feedback with us. I suffer from the same bug sometimes, usually, it happens once or twice before the menu decides not to disappear anymore, and stays. Our apologies for the inconvenience. It has been reported and on the list of bug fixes!

Still think you need to have a good look at that page.... Ultimaker ABS needs 250c on the Ultimaker2 and 230c on the Ultimaker3 at comparable settings? that difference is a bit much don't you think? Alright, I have an answer with some more knowledge to it: There lies a difference in internal nozzle geometry in between the Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 3, and the location of the nozzle in between the heater and PT100 is of influence too. This means most profiles are approximately 10ºC colder on an Ultimaker 3. The Ultimaker 3 could also be a little bit better controlled, so we can go a little bit lower in temperature. For the Ultimaker 2+ we had to select the higher side of profiles temperatures, so they would 'always work'.

I always love it when I can say; 'We actually listen sometimes!'

Dunno what the reason is for this. Different designed hot end / print head, hot zones and cold zones?

The pages do specifically mention Ultimaker 2+. I am happy to share that we have also changed the general warranty statement on our site. I think they are much clearer and represent Ultimaker's values better. This is what we say now: 'Customers are welcome and we encourage them to use third party materials, accessories, etc.. That in itself, does not void the warranty. If, however, the use of third party elements, causes damage to the Product, the part(s) affected by this damage is excluded from warranty.' You can find the full page here. Just in case to put it human language if that would be desired; using third party material or whatever does not void your warranty. We like it when our users experiment and use their Ultimaker how they see fit. But common sense and caution is required. If damage is caused to your Ultimaker directly by this third party product, Ultimaker can not be held responsible for this specific damage caused. The rest of the machine remains covered by warranty. Since everyone likes examples, if you use bronzefill or an E3D hot end, and your OLED screen dies, within your warranty period, you are still entitled to a new screen. ..soooooooo... what do you think?

Let me find out!

Make sure to use PLA or Nylon with PVA. Not ABS. PVA does not bond with ABS, so whatever you try to deploy won't stick.In regard of Tom's reply, I don't know what the bottom / inside looks like, but I recently did a pretty small print (15mm) with quite some detail at 45º angle, and the details came out really good. Just an fyi. Dunno if it helps.

Don't pin me down on it, but I believe CPE showed some potential to be used in combination with PVA.