SandervG

If you click your name in the top right corner, go to settings and notifications. While you are at it, you can also have a look at forums, and see if you want to customize the way the forums is presented to you. PLA usually shouldn't warp or delaminate, or veeeeery minimal. Have you tried increasing the temperature? Turn off the fan? Are you sure it is PLA?

Hi @Clarryparry, thank you for your post and welcome to the community! Reducing print times can be achieved in a variety of ways and it also depends on what the purpose is of the print. For example, if the print is for aesthetical purpose you could do without infill at all, depending on the size of the top layer or overhangs you can do this by using 2 or 3 shells. The layerheight is crucial too and so is the print speed. Depending on what your nozzle size is, you can increase the speed until you have reached the maximum extrusion volume. For an Ultimaker 2+ these are realistic guidelines: 0.25 nozzle: up to 8 mm³/s 0.40 nozzle: up to 16 mm³/s 0.60 nozzle: up to 23 mm³/s 0.80 nozzle: up to 24 mm³/s You can calculate this by layer height * print speed * nozzle size. Is this information that helps you get started optimizing your prints? btw, the print times you refer to, are these actual periods of time passed or estimated durations?

Hi @Erichmc, thank you for your post and welcome to the community! Do you have some photo's of what the problem is that you are having? Usually that helps to identify the problem faster than based on a description. Looking forward hearing from you!

It looks alright

Someone called? Let us know how the printing goes (pictures are always nice ). If you still prefer a sticker, let me know and I'll see if we have some lying around somewhere!

It is also intended for firmware updates, not the 3D printing itself. For that, there is an SD slot in the front of the Ultimaker. Besides a visual inspection, analyzing your print would also give you a lot of information. You can print an Ultimaker robot or a Benchy model . If something does not look right, it gives you information that something is not calibrated well, and often also what you should fix. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!

No problem, happy to help! I'll go check out that other thread

I think the left one looks really good, based on this photo. Not much to improve, is there? Great job!! Depending on how much time you want to invest, you could go to 0.1 layer height if you want the curve to be a little bit smoother even.

With some materials it is recommended to use some glue, not as extra adhesion but as a little thin layer to make the adhesion a little less. Have you tried this? Besides that, here are some more tips about printing with PC. Let us know if you have any further questions, or if this helped you!

Hi @dlcain, thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! Unfortunately we are dealing with battling quite some spam in the moderator panel that sometimes can almost hide genuine posts. We are doing our best to approve and ban accordingly, but I am afraid your original post may got lost. I expect some improvements in this regard Monday, but that won't really influenc you anymore since you have been approved I saw you also posted something about your Ultimaker 2+, I'll have a look at that post too Our apologies for the inconvenience!

Besides that, a practical answer would also be that there is no upgrade pack available to upgrade your Ultimaker 2 into an Ultimaker 3. Like @Lance said, the required changes are too big. A community approach like the magnetic tool change could be interesting, however those files are not (yet?) available but it may be an inspiration to what is possible to do. Basically everything down that path, if you want to do it yourself, requires quite some technical knowledge.

Hi @Thx4Playn88, Welcome to the forum and congratulations with your Ultimaker 2 Extended+! Did you get a new one, refurbished or second hand? If it is a brand new machine, I would suggest to carefully read the quick start guide, follow the tips on how to level your bed and that would be it. In the beginning, stick with the default profiles in Cura and use 0.4mm nozzle. When you are a little bit more familiar with the machine, you can start changing some settings in Cura if you want to change resolutions, speed, or other things. Then you can change nozzle sizes, I would recommend to first go bigger and later go for the 0.25mm nozzle. Usually a smaller nozzle is trickier than a bigger nozzle. For adhesion with PLA, 60ºC bed should be enough. I usually add a thin layer of glue stick but that is not mandatory. Good luck, and I'm curious to see your first prints!

Hi @Retromanie, 3DGBIRE is still our approved partner, yes sir. I just happened to spend a couple of days with them last week in London at the BETT show, with a few members of there team. I also recall them saying there was another show going on at the same time, so perhaps you just found them at a very busy moment. I would recommend to give them a call and I am sure they will help you asap, they are great guys! Let me know if you need any further help, have a great day!!

It still works!... most of the times We have implemented google search in our forums a little while ago and it has been a huge improvement in finding things. But 2 days ago we found out that when the daily limit is met, it kinda just stops. A request was made to up the limit, and I have no doubts this will happen, except we are now waiting for approval and then implementation. Hopefully it will be solved asap.. For now.. an early bird gets the worm!

Hi @SQuicke, Thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! You should be perfectly fine printing just a single color print with the Ultimaker 3. In Cura you can define what part of the model you print with what print core. Does it only purge / prime or does it print the skirt / brim with your first print core too?

Hi @Basteluwe, Thank you for your post and welcome to the forums. There is absolutely nothing wrong with learning through trial and error. That is what we have all done, and failure is a great teacher! But luckily you can also rely on the forums to help The side of your knob definitely looks great! For the bottom I could suggest to level your bed a little bit higher so your first layer is really squeezed on the bed. That should help in getting that flat, smooth first layer with excellent adhesion. About the top layer, would you say your knob is perfectly round? From the last photo it looks like it may not be... (maybe that is just the photo..) How fast do you print? To be sure, can you check how tight your small belts are? Thanks, looking forward hearing from you!

Hi @RocketNut, Thank you for your post! Usually a photo really helps when you are describing a problem. Without a photo, I have to interpret your interpretations of a certain issue, and from experience I have learned that does not always mean we are on the same page I think you are talking about delamination, which usually happens with ABS. ABS has the tendency to shrink when it cools down, more than other materials. Usually this results in warping, when the hot layers that cool down shrink, they force pull in the bottom layers. Except.... when the individual bonding among layers is weak and it pulls apart the layers. You could try to avoid this by closing off your 3D printer (what brand do you have?, you can update your user profile with this type of information), print slower and a little bit hotter. This should ensure better layer bonding. Good luck!

Hi Wishbone, thank you for your feedback. I'm sorry to hear you seem to have more difficulties getting your prints to stick and stay flat after you have done the upgrade. Bed leveling should have remained the same, so I doubt anything changed in that area. You did replace your printhead, and your new printhead has a more accurate PT100 (temperature readings), more powerful cartridge heater and maybe you are using different nozzle sizes? It could be that what once was 210ºC for you, in 'reality' was 200ºC if your PT100 was not 100% accurate. So I would try to forget your old profiles, and move forward and react upon what your first layer looks like. What are the settings you are currently playing around with? Is your first layer squashed in the bed? Do you use any adhesives? Looking forward hearing from you!

Hi Fabreax, Thank you for your message. I'm sorry to hear about the difficulties you are facing. You are not very lucky in this regard, please allow us to help you and get everything in working state as it should and you can enjoy the fruits of having the Ultimaker 3! About your camera, I understood there could be a bug where the camera is not working, but by simply rebooting your Ultimaker this should be fixed. I am guessing you have already tried this? We have tried to replicate your situation, and our test engineer had similar results after unplugging the camera from the Olimex board. You could check to see if the cable is still properly inserted. If you do, make sure the power supply is detached from your Ultimaker and it happens ESD safe. This is very important as the Olimex board is rather sensitive and I don't think you want to cause any more issues right I will send you a DM with a picture of the Olimex board, so you know what to look for. I rather do it like this, so we don't motivate any people to open up their electronics, without us having had the opportunity to give them the proper warnings Lastly, if you could send me the log I would be happy to have a look at those. There should also be some information in there. You can access the log by: System - Maintenance - Diagnostics - Store logs to USB Good luck, and looking forward hearing from you!

Thank you for your answer. In any other situation does your camera work? I have asked our support engineers what would happen if, lets say, a cable would be loose. Would that mean you get a black screen or perhaps what you are seeing now. They would give this a test tomorrow, so I'll let you know.

Hi Fabreax, thank you for your post. Do the other 2 Ultimaker 3's broadcast a feed that you can access via Cura? @Nallath, from a Cura perspective, do you have some tips to test? @Tomnagel, from hardware perspective, do you have some tips to check if the camera is broadcasting? Thanks! Thanks!

Could you share some photo's of what your first layer looks like? Thanks!

Hi @FLG, thank you for your reply! I am curious as to why you are not getting messages. Did you enable to settings in your account to receive notifications by email? Could it be they end up in a spam filter or something like that? Looking forward hearing from you!

Hi @Karel1986 Welcome to the forums! We do have a dedicated category for the Ultimaker 3, right here. Having separated categories for each model would mean the category 'hardware' would have to be there for the Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker Original+, Ultimaker 2, Ultimaker 2 Extended, Ultimaker 2Go, Ultimaker 2+, Ultimaker 2 Extended+ and the Ultimaker 3 & Extended. Quite a lot I have thought about labeling, but I don't think it would work if topics are labeled, as sometimes they are relevant for all models, and sometimes they are not.. I don't think anyone would be interested in labeling every reply they make, nor that this would help making things easier to find.. Could you add your model to your search keywords, does that help? We use google search on the forums and it is pretty sophisticated. If you have any other ideas on how to make things easier to find, please let me know!

weird, I completely missed that. Curious to know if indeed Nylon would give better results..