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italianmaxx

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Everything posted by italianmaxx

  1. hi Umakers, after several days fighting with Z axis wobble i put down this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182295 it's a little piece to help Z axis top end to keep its place, and togheter with the brass z nut movement COULD help to reduce vertical wobble in printed objects. It seems to work. does'n eliminate it but seems to reduce it. Remove vertical wobbles in printed objects seems related to several different things: z axis problems bed problems under/over extrusion problem slicer poblems (netfabb seems to produce the best slice in terms of vertical wobbles against Cura. need to try kisslicer too) hope could help someone...
  2. I'm building my UM, just finished step 3(the hard one) but I found the belt very very loose :evil: . UM dispatched me four 300 mxl belts, but in the videos (correct belt tension) and in the forum I found that on UM are installed the 240mxl. wich are the correct one??? with my loose belts i thing that the thingiverse tensioners wouldn't be of any use. I tried with a clothes spring and it works but I dont want a 2000K $ machine run on spring clothes... and where to find 240xml belts? thanks!
  3. italianmaxx

    ultimaker italiani !

    A tutti i possessori e futuri possessori di ultimaker italiani o italiani residenti all estero, contiamoci e teniamoci in contatto io sono a. ROMA e voi?
  4. found one on ebay, ordered, waiting. every little bit could make my UM better. not expensive (5$), maybe should be in the UM kit from the start...
  5. hi, seems to have the same problem. before switching to v2, can you show how you keep the peek cooled and why this helps? thanks!
  6. italianmaxx

    vertical random surface wobble

    Netfabb also (if you select random start in a submenu) can start every layer in a different spot. (the problem with netfabb is still the retraction than still isn't working good). On my last print yesterday night, the test cube was quite good, no more 3mm wobble but a lot of ooze from every layer starting point. So, even starting layers in different spots (the way you told cura works) netfabb seems to produce a cleaner print. I do not understand. really.
  7. italianmaxx

    vertical random surface wobble

    well here I am, reporting of a Z wobble problem too. after months (18) of use, my UM started to print with a significant wobble on the Z axis. Read the forum, analyzed the hardware, scream like mad and tried several things: 1: free XY play for the brass nut. some file work on the wooden parts and the Z nut can move freely in ther XY domain (weird.. when I built the UM the z nut was blocked but the printing was really good with no wobble) 2: printed a add-on to guide the z thread and eliminate axis wobble, worked quite good (i will place it on thingiverse ASAP) but not resolved 3: quit CURA and get back to netfabb. NO WOBBLE at all. Now that's the problem... It's hard to me to believe that it's CURA that helps the wobble, but the same test object (a 10mmx15mmx25mm cube) shows no signs of wobble when sliced with netfabb and printed with printrun but shows wobble (every 3-4mm ) when sliced with cura ((13.6.3 or 13.11) and printed with printrun. still not tried anything on belts but I will ( I love cura and hate netfabb... so messy...) any idea? in the meantime my extruder seems to starts failing and ordered a new v2 extruder head...
  8. italianmaxx

    BendLay

    tried bendlay without heated bed, confirm that it doesn't work well... wait until HB is available... or switch to TGLASE, not bendable but cristal clear. strong and print on cold kapton tape
  9. well well well, Last weeks I sailed the web searching for new filaments for my UM original. Until now I found and bought and tried a lot (no heated bed, just kapton tape or blue tape): Taulman nylon 618: warping , quite elastic, great strenght. I need more time to play with it and test different Temp Taulman nylon 645: fantastic. less warp, incredible strength, great cleanliness. no problem about sticking on the kapton tape. still playing with it Laybrick weird filament, stick well on kapton, bound well between layers. more temp mmeans more roughness on surface and more brown colour (it starts like a beige/ivory). after printing you MUST let it cool several hours. at room temp it takes ages to make it a solid (not gummy) object. otherwise very cool filament Laaywood same as laybrick, smells like wood (yeah!) and more tempo means more dark wood... interesting but need more time to play. objects can be sanded after printed and worked in a very similar way to normal wood! T-Glase Taulman great. I mean great, really. stick well to kapton, very very very clear (if you print single wallls like a vase it is quite transparent (you can see layers but it is the clearest printed thing until now). good strenght, prints easily, just play with temp I will buy again. and again and again FLEX PLA (several different name around...mine is ECOFLEX PLA from germany) very rubbery thing, when printed turn shiny but keep a good rubber feeling. it works thru the bowden and prints easily on kapton tape Advice to keep a high infill ratio and a large wall. must try to print some tires for my RC cars or some belts in conclusion (for now) the UM can print very good different filaments, the bowden is a PITA with some filaments (mainly soft and rubber filaments and larger filaments with bad tolerances (3.something is bad---2.9 is good) and after 18 months I found that printing wit larger walls and REDUCING the pla filament paramentes OR INCREASING flow parameter give me better results! I love my Ultimaker (I hate ultimaker.store shipment fees :cry: ) edit: Removed the request to move the thread to avoid further confusion. Sorry, forgot to do it when I moved the thread. - IRobertI
  10. italianmaxx

    ultimaker italiani !

    arieccomi qui dopo un bel pezzo... sono quello che ha aperto questo thread... e sono di Roma... @Proteus3D, io con la ultimaker mi trova strabene, ho letto ovunque (su forum di altre stampanti e anche su questo) di moltissimi problemi ma confesso che da qualndo l'ho montata (ormai 18 mesi fa), il tempo di settarla e fare un pò di prove, roba di una giornata, e poi via a stampare! sento un pò la mancanza di un heated bed ma al maker faire ho parlato con i ragazzi di ultimaker che mi hanno detto che è in preparazione anche una versione addon x la UM1 per fine anno oinizio 2014. per il resto la UM va alla grande, sto provando tutti i materiali possibili e posso dire che con CURA (e printrun x stampare) riesco a stampare tutto: PLA NYLON Taulman PETT FLEX PLA LAYBRICK LAYWOOD T-GLASE TAULMAN naturalmente ho qualche problemino con l'abs, vista la assenza di un heated bed. Se poi invece parti con la UM2... sei in una botte di ferro (vista al maker faire, molto molto bella) Altri ultimakeristi romani, dove siete???
  11. italianmaxx

    Pimpaggio ultimaker

    lascia perdere replicatorg... scarica cura rc4 , installa in firmware tramite il setup di cura e inizia a divertirti...
  12. italianmaxx

    How to recognize PLA from ABS ???

    I bought 2 rolls of PLA (?) from an italian source on ebay. everything went fine but now I'm trying it and I can smell something different in the air, somethind like a lightly sweet smell. my usual PLA (from ultimaker or faberdashery) never smelled like this. I'm printing an 'old' PLA gcode and I didn't change temperature or other. first lyer seems stictching well on usual cold bed with tape, but... can someone tell me a way to recognize PLA from ABS ? :?: thanks!
  13. italianmaxx

    Pimpaggio ultimaker

    @lucamaz Errore di battitura... Ho dato il RESET... Ovvero il tasto reset machine settings. A quel punto nel riquadro gcode start che è nei settaggi avanzati mi è apparso un lungo script gcode che la macchina mette prima della stampa vera e propria e pare abbia risolto i problemi
  14. italianmaxx

    How to recognize PLA from ABS ???

    It is an italian seller on ebay. 800gr at 16 euro. No rolls, filament seems a bit oval but have good viscosity and it is very tenacious after printed. Very vey few little bubbles inside. I m happy You can find it on ebay searching for 'pla 3mm filament' he lives in catania, sicily. I heard from another friend that he bouht a fantastic filament from filamentprint. He is really happy, i will try it in the future.
  15. italianmaxx

    Cura model view blank?

    Sorry to hear that. You are in the same situation i were, and I know it's reaally upsetting... Only good news is that cura works with the blank preview too, so you could still use it. Sad but useful. Set python.exe with administrator rights? Checked driver for graphic card? If it is an ati card you could remove the drivers and use an old version ( now we have 12.4 you could try 10.something, i read somewhere that w te best version regatdin oengl support) Removed blingbling win 64 transparent deskop and set it to basic colours? Tried a different ( better an nvidia) graphic card? Good luck !
  16. italianmaxx

    Pimpaggio ultimaker

    Io e antiklesys ci stavamo pensando, anche x l abs. Hai fatto un progetto tuo o hai costruito uno di auelli che si trovano in rete? Dacci le indicazioni che hai seguito tu che quasi quasi mi metto e lo aggiungo, farebbe compagnia all ulticontroller e avrei la ultimaker definitiva!!!
  17. italianmaxx

    Pimpaggio ultimaker

    Ciao, In realta io non ho fatto nulla dal lato hardware se non usare 4 molle prese dalle mollette dei panni come tendicinghie... Il resto è stock e va bene. I problemi li ho trovati tutti nel software. Ho smadonnato con netfabb per un mese fino a che ho dato il rest e mi è cambiato tutto. Mi sono trovato un pezzo di nuovo codice nel start_gcode e ora va bene. Io poi non ho pretese di qualità superlative ma mi servono stampe in tempi rapidi quindi se stampo anche a0.2 ma con lo skin / half layer vado benissimo. X le cose di tutti i giorni poi uso cura...
  18. italianmaxx

    Cura model view blank?

    I am the old 'blank screen' reporter... I don't know how I solved, I tried everything and Daid told me everything he could to help but nothing. I solved when I disinstalled some software from my system during a normal clean routine of my pc. from then on everything went right. Anyway you have to check your video driver and keep it updated. I read that ATI cards give some problems with opengl and a new driver can help. at the same time any modification I made on videocards parameters didn't work. good luck, cura is a fantastic software and can make your 3d printing life cozy and warm...
  19. italianmaxx

    How to recognize PLA from ABS ???

    The results with the new filamnet and the temp of extrusion are a good sign PLA but the SNAP test is going to give me the ultimate answer. thanks!
  20. italianmaxx

    How to recognize PLA from ABS ???

    Thanks, it's a great thing so! I bought 2 kg of this stuff (yellow translucent and natural) for 40 euros and at this moment, after 2 pieces printed it seems a good buy. printed a quadricopter motor mount too (from thingiverse hugin) and it's really cool and hard. by the way, as usual cura and printrun make their duty sooo well!
  21. italianmaxx

    How to recognize PLA from ABS ???

    my first print with this new filament ended right now. I can see just a little warping on the corner (the piece is 5cm x 8 cm, x 0,8cm) tha filament is a yellow translucent, not bad but nothing more than ok. the piece stiched well to the cold bed and finished without a problem. the filament is just a bit oval (2,9 x 2,75) but quite costant. printed at 210 C.
  22. Yee, the 'colour' house is really ugly, but look at the colour and texture.... Back to the topic, Ian, why are you working on printing hollow models? Is this really needed or a normal infill or inside support could do the job? Bridging is An art itself in the 3d printing art... I'm also thinking about print the hollow house upside doen or in 2 pieces and then glue it togheter
  23. italianmaxx

    Reset Machine Settings...

    Well it's now maybe a month I have my UM+Netfabb. I read all, I tried all. Everything working for other Umakers didn't work for me. I keep on printing with the great CURA+Printrun and so nothing to worry about but...150 euros for netfabb??? after thousand of attempts I was thinking about uninstalling netfabb and say goodbay to my hard earned cash but a last hope: the RESET MACHINE SETTINGS button in the Machine tab of the right menu on netfabb. This reset all your custom profiles and materials but who cares? never work really good. after having pressed the miracle button everything simply reset, just 4 materials profile, several build styles. but in the machine tab, under Machine type -Ultimaker menu (the [...] button) and in the ULTIMAKER SPECIFIC code like a magic they appears! a bunch of gcode lines under the start gcode section. NEVER SEEN BEFORE!!! I had just a m106 and my M92 E14 codes like the masters of ultimakers wisely told me. this code simply made netfabb work! I use the dreaded tandard material-standard quality setting (it never never worked, never printed something in the first layer). when I click the print button the head start running and printing 4-5 lines just in the right side, to prepare the print (never done before!) and then suddenly it started to print the 1st layer and so on, FAST, I mean really FAST at 70-80 mm/sec I think, and I got a perfect 20mm cube. Please excuse my capital letters, it's not a yell, its an alert/warning sign. TO ALL NETFABB USERS: If YOU HAVE PROBLEMS AND NOTHING SEEMS TO WORK CHECK THE ULTIMAKER SPECIFIC-START GCODE SETTING, IF YOU HAVE NOTHING IN THERE, RESET MACHINE SETTING AND ... HAPPY PRINTING!
  24. maybe 3 extruder with R G B plastic would do the job? the question is how small can you go? you need to extrude a mix of R% G% B% plastic very very near one another, just like the pixel in old crt tv. aftertought. you need also a 4th extruder for white and a 5th for black... 8-( but after all I would be happy just with basic 4-8 colors...
  25. Maybe I'm a bit off, but did you try with different infill % ? When I printed some thin wall (a vase like objects) I got an external wall a littel bit on the soft side, not a good sturdy wall. in netfabb maybe a 10mm infill space (to set in the print tab of the right menu) could do the job of supporting roofs and make walls a little bit rigid and at the same time don't waste too much PLA or time, if you set a STRONG line /FAST speed extrusion. I will try asap with your model. OT: did you see the zprinter inkjet colour 3d printer... :shock: :shock:
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