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Everything posted by italianmaxx

  1. found one on ebay, ordered, waiting. every little bit could make my UM better. not expensive (5$), maybe should be in the UM kit from the start...
  2. hi, seems to have the same problem. before switching to v2, can you show how you keep the peek cooled and why this helps? thanks!
  3. hi Umakers, after several days fighting with Z axis wobble i put down this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182295 it's a little piece to help Z axis top end to keep its place, and togheter with the brass z nut movement COULD help to reduce vertical wobble in printed objects. It seems to work. does'n eliminate it but seems to reduce it. Remove vertical wobbles in printed objects seems related to several different things: z axis problems bed problems under/over extrusion problem slicer poblems (netfabb seems to produce the best slice in terms of vertical wobbles against Cura. need to try kisslicer too) hope could help someone...
  4. Netfabb also (if you select random start in a submenu) can start every layer in a different spot. (the problem with netfabb is still the retraction than still isn't working good). On my last print yesterday night, the test cube was quite good, no more 3mm wobble but a lot of ooze from every layer starting point. So, even starting layers in different spots (the way you told cura works) netfabb seems to produce a cleaner print. I do not understand. really.
  5. well here I am, reporting of a Z wobble problem too. after months (18) of use, my UM started to print with a significant wobble on the Z axis. Read the forum, analyzed the hardware, scream like mad and tried several things: 1: free XY play for the brass nut. some file work on the wooden parts and the Z nut can move freely in ther XY domain (weird.. when I built the UM the z nut was blocked but the printing was really good with no wobble) 2: printed a add-on to guide the z thread and eliminate axis wobble, worked quite good (i will place it on thingiverse ASAP) but not resolved 3: quit CURA and get back to netfabb. NO WOBBLE at all. Now that's the problem... It's hard to me to believe that it's CURA that helps the wobble, but the same test object (a 10mmx15mmx25mm cube) shows no signs of wobble when sliced with netfabb and printed with printrun but shows wobble (every 3-4mm ) when sliced with cura ((13.6.3 or 13.11) and printed with printrun. still not tried anything on belts but I will ( I love cura and hate netfabb... so messy...) any idea? in the meantime my extruder seems to starts failing and ordered a new v2 extruder head...
  6. tried bendlay without heated bed, confirm that it doesn't work well... wait until HB is available... or switch to TGLASE, not bendable but cristal clear. strong and print on cold kapton tape
  7. well well well, Last weeks I sailed the web searching for new filaments for my UM original. Until now I found and bought and tried a lot (no heated bed, just kapton tape or blue tape): Taulman nylon 618: warping , quite elastic, great strenght. I need more time to play with it and test different Temp Taulman nylon 645: fantastic. less warp, incredible strength, great cleanliness. no problem about sticking on the kapton tape. still playing with it Laybrick weird filament, stick well on kapton, bound well between layers. more temp mmeans more roughness on surface and more brown colour (it starts like a beige/ivory). after printing you MUST let it cool several hours. at room temp it takes ages to make it a solid (not gummy) object. otherwise very cool filament Laaywood same as laybrick, smells like wood (yeah!) and more tempo means more dark wood... interesting but need more time to play. objects can be sanded after printed and worked in a very similar way to normal wood! T-Glase Taulman great. I mean great, really. stick well to kapton, very very very clear (if you print single wallls like a vase it is quite transparent (you can see layers but it is the clearest printed thing until now). good strenght, prints easily, just play with temp I will buy again. and again and again FLEX PLA (several different name around...mine is ECOFLEX PLA from germany) very rubbery thing, when printed turn shiny but keep a good rubber feeling. it works thru the bowden and prints easily on kapton tape Advice to keep a high infill ratio and a large wall. must try to print some tires for my RC cars or some belts in conclusion (for now) the UM can print very good different filaments, the bowden is a PITA with some filaments (mainly soft and rubber filaments and larger filaments with bad tolerances (3.something is bad---2.9 is good) and after 18 months I found that printing wit larger walls and REDUCING the pla filament paramentes OR INCREASING flow parameter give me better results! I love my Ultimaker (I hate ultimaker.store shipment fees :cry: ) edit: Removed the request to move the thread to avoid further confusion. Sorry, forgot to do it when I moved the thread. - IRobertI
  8. arieccomi qui dopo un bel pezzo... sono quello che ha aperto questo thread... e sono di Roma... @Proteus3D, io con la ultimaker mi trova strabene, ho letto ovunque (su forum di altre stampanti e anche su questo) di moltissimi problemi ma confesso che da qualndo l'ho montata (ormai 18 mesi fa), il tempo di settarla e fare un pò di prove, roba di una giornata, e poi via a stampare! sento un pò la mancanza di un heated bed ma al maker faire ho parlato con i ragazzi di ultimaker che mi hanno detto che è in preparazione anche una versione addon x la UM1 per fine anno oinizio 2014. per il resto la UM va alla grande, sto provando tutti i materiali possibili e posso dire che con CURA (e printrun x stampare) riesco a stampare tutto: PLA NYLON Taulman PETT FLEX PLA LAYBRICK LAYWOOD T-GLASE TAULMAN naturalmente ho qualche problemino con l'abs, vista la assenza di un heated bed. Se poi invece parti con la UM2... sei in una botte di ferro (vista al maker faire, molto molto bella) Altri ultimakeristi romani, dove siete???
  9. lascia perdere replicatorg... scarica cura rc4 , installa in firmware tramite il setup di cura e inizia a divertirti...
  10. @lucamaz Errore di battitura... Ho dato il RESET... Ovvero il tasto reset machine settings. A quel punto nel riquadro gcode start che è nei settaggi avanzati mi è apparso un lungo script gcode che la macchina mette prima della stampa vera e propria e pare abbia risolto i problemi
  11. It is an italian seller on ebay. 800gr at 16 euro. No rolls, filament seems a bit oval but have good viscosity and it is very tenacious after printed. Very vey few little bubbles inside. I m happy You can find it on ebay searching for 'pla 3mm filament' he lives in catania, sicily. I heard from another friend that he bouht a fantastic filament from filamentprint. He is really happy, i will try it in the future.
  12. Sorry to hear that. You are in the same situation i were, and I know it's reaally upsetting... Only good news is that cura works with the blank preview too, so you could still use it. Sad but useful. Set python.exe with administrator rights? Checked driver for graphic card? If it is an ati card you could remove the drivers and use an old version ( now we have 12.4 you could try 10.something, i read somewhere that w te best version regatdin oengl support) Removed blingbling win 64 transparent deskop and set it to basic colours? Tried a different ( better an nvidia) graphic card? Good luck !
  13. Io e antiklesys ci stavamo pensando, anche x l abs. Hai fatto un progetto tuo o hai costruito uno di auelli che si trovano in rete? Dacci le indicazioni che hai seguito tu che quasi quasi mi metto e lo aggiungo, farebbe compagnia all ulticontroller e avrei la ultimaker definitiva!!!
  14. Ciao, In realta io non ho fatto nulla dal lato hardware se non usare 4 molle prese dalle mollette dei panni come tendicinghie... Il resto è stock e va bene. I problemi li ho trovati tutti nel software. Ho smadonnato con netfabb per un mese fino a che ho dato il rest e mi è cambiato tutto. Mi sono trovato un pezzo di nuovo codice nel start_gcode e ora va bene. Io poi non ho pretese di qualità superlative ma mi servono stampe in tempi rapidi quindi se stampo anche a0.2 ma con lo skin / half layer vado benissimo. X le cose di tutti i giorni poi uso cura...
  15. I am the old 'blank screen' reporter... I don't know how I solved, I tried everything and Daid told me everything he could to help but nothing. I solved when I disinstalled some software from my system during a normal clean routine of my pc. from then on everything went right. Anyway you have to check your video driver and keep it updated. I read that ATI cards give some problems with opengl and a new driver can help. at the same time any modification I made on videocards parameters didn't work. good luck, cura is a fantastic software and can make your 3d printing life cozy and warm...
  16. The results with the new filamnet and the temp of extrusion are a good sign PLA but the SNAP test is going to give me the ultimate answer. thanks!
  17. Thanks, it's a great thing so! I bought 2 kg of this stuff (yellow translucent and natural) for 40 euros and at this moment, after 2 pieces printed it seems a good buy. printed a quadricopter motor mount too (from thingiverse hugin) and it's really cool and hard. by the way, as usual cura and printrun make their duty sooo well!
  18. my first print with this new filament ended right now. I can see just a little warping on the corner (the piece is 5cm x 8 cm, x 0,8cm) tha filament is a yellow translucent, not bad but nothing more than ok. the piece stiched well to the cold bed and finished without a problem. the filament is just a bit oval (2,9 x 2,75) but quite costant. printed at 210 C.
  19. I bought 2 rolls of PLA (?) from an italian source on ebay. everything went fine but now I'm trying it and I can smell something different in the air, somethind like a lightly sweet smell. my usual PLA (from ultimaker or faberdashery) never smelled like this. I'm printing an 'old' PLA gcode and I didn't change temperature or other. first lyer seems stictching well on usual cold bed with tape, but... can someone tell me a way to recognize PLA from ABS ? :?: thanks!
  20. Yee, the 'colour' house is really ugly, but look at the colour and texture.... Back to the topic, Ian, why are you working on printing hollow models? Is this really needed or a normal infill or inside support could do the job? Bridging is An art itself in the 3d printing art... I'm also thinking about print the hollow house upside doen or in 2 pieces and then glue it togheter
  21. maybe 3 extruder with R G B plastic would do the job? the question is how small can you go? you need to extrude a mix of R% G% B% plastic very very near one another, just like the pixel in old crt tv. aftertought. you need also a 4th extruder for white and a 5th for black... 8-( but after all I would be happy just with basic 4-8 colors...
  22. Maybe I'm a bit off, but did you try with different infill % ? When I printed some thin wall (a vase like objects) I got an external wall a littel bit on the soft side, not a good sturdy wall. in netfabb maybe a 10mm infill space (to set in the print tab of the right menu) could do the job of supporting roofs and make walls a little bit rigid and at the same time don't waste too much PLA or time, if you set a STRONG line /FAST speed extrusion. I will try asap with your model. OT: did you see the zprinter inkjet colour 3d printer... :shock: :shock:
  23. you can scale in netfabb, aftter the repair and then export the stl. by the way, I'm an architect and so your experience with revit models is interesting. I think that a lot of info that revit put in the model is really not used (if not un-healthy) by our 3d slicers and printers. OT: at this point you need a SHELL command (like in inventor or solidworks or maybe the sketchupp version could work). a shell command remove all the internal geometry of a 3d object and gives you only the external shell. this cut the polygons and make the object better for 3dprinting. netfabb make something similar when you repair (it closes holes and remove SMALL internal objects). internal object as far as I know doesn't prevnt you from printing but made the 3d slicing operation really not clean in particular th infill section.
  24. it seems the same problem you can have in sketchup. when you zoom/pan/rotate, part of the model ic cutted away? if it is so, maybe it is a problme with the scale of the model. a revit model maybe is in meters or feet, a 3d printer model is usually in millimeters, so the cut plane in the rendering engine could behave erratically... in sketchup it easy to work in meters and then scale all when you are ready. I had a lot of problem in cura with the 3dpreview window, it was always black. after I disinstalled some software from my win7 64 PC suddenly it starts working like a charm! I hope this help...
  25. well, the mason's spatula is this one it is quite flexible and not sharp but you have to be careful with the corners, they can break the tape. and the white masking tape is exaclty that one you showed in the pic. I think is way better of the blue tape, but it is mandatory to put on the bed 2 layers (if you were used to just one layer check again the Z) and after having placed it you have to rub it with paper and alcohol, just a little.
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