italianmaxx

I stopped to use blue tape. here in italy we have a very common white/cream paper tape just like the blue one but very cheap andvery wide (2inches is common). It costs a fraction of the 3m blue tape and works like a charm. you only need 2 layers of tape snd a good rub of alcohol ti make it a perfect bed. the spatula don' t cause lot of damage and i use the same tape for several prints.

Actually I'm using a simple putty/plaster spatula like the ones used by masons. It costs half a dollar ( a cheap one) and work very well. Before I used a hobby knyfe but it dig into the tape layer. Just have patuence to find a good spot to get under the printed part.

this is the code I found in start_gcode window after I click on Reset Machine Settings button: M104 S%maxtemp1 M92 E14 G21 G91 G1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z5.00 F500 G90 M109 S%maxtemp1 G28 G92 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 E0.00 G1 E0.00 G1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z5.00 F600.00 M106 S255 G1 X205.00 Y200.00 Z5.00 F5000.00 G1 X205.00 Y200.00 Z0.35 F5000.00 G1 X205.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F2500.00 E200.00 G1 X204.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F2500.00 E202.00 G1 X204.00 Y200.00 Z0.35 F2500 E402.00 G1 X203.00 Y200.00 Z0.35 F2500 E404.00 G1 X203.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F2500 E604.00 G1 X202.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F2500 E606.00 G1 X202.00 Y200.00 Z0.35 F2500 E806.00 G1 X201.00 Y200.00 Z0.35 F2500 E808.00 G1 X201.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F2500 E1008 G1 X202.00 Y100.00 Z0.35 F50000 E708.00 G1 X0.00 Y200.00 Z0.00 F15000 G92 E-300.00 And now IT'S ALIVE !!!

eh daiiii che a 3 ci siamo arrivati... :mrgreen:

I can't check it right now but tonight i will. Anyway before I had only M106 and M109. I added the famous M92 E14 but it alone didn't help too much. Now I have maybe 20 lines of gcode. Like said before the head start a complex routine of pre- printing, moving backleft then farright and printing maybe 4 lines with different width just to prime the extruder then it goes to 100,100 and start the print . Before that I had several problems: 1- if the 'write some pillar before start' was checked ( in the building style), after the 5 little pillars the head remained high at the pillar exit z and so the pla didn't stitch to the bed/tape 2- if the ' write some pillars...' wasn't checked the extruder start a normal outline raft but very often notihing were extruded and the first layer became a mess 3 -complete incosistency. i mean same object, same gode, gave everytime a different result, mainly a mess... 4 - standard profiles NEVER printed anything 5 - the extruder rpm in the calibration window were totally weird. The rpm for fine and thin settings were about 0.9 but the parameter for medium was about 30 ( all at the same speed) By the way everytime I start netfabb the demo/full version question appears again and i have to insert again my code. Maybe this could make me think hat something is not going riht with my netfabb... I think the reset maching setting really reset netfabb with the GOOD settings and profiles that the original installation was missing. I Printed just 2 cubes yesterday night with different profiles (standard and low) and they went perfectly. I will try more tonight but I feel something has changed in my netfabb. :-)

Well it's now maybe a month I have my UM+Netfabb. I read all, I tried all. Everything working for other Umakers didn't work for me. I keep on printing with the great CURA+Printrun and so nothing to worry about but...150 euros for netfabb??? after thousand of attempts I was thinking about uninstalling netfabb and say goodbay to my hard earned cash but a last hope: the RESET MACHINE SETTINGS button in the Machine tab of the right menu on netfabb. This reset all your custom profiles and materials but who cares? never work really good. after having pressed the miracle button everything simply reset, just 4 materials profile, several build styles. but in the machine tab, under Machine type -Ultimaker menu (the [...] button) and in the ULTIMAKER SPECIFIC code like a magic they appears! a bunch of gcode lines under the start gcode section. NEVER SEEN BEFORE!!! I had just a m106 and my M92 E14 codes like the masters of ultimakers wisely told me. this code simply made netfabb work! I use the dreaded tandard material-standard quality setting (it never never worked, never printed something in the first layer). when I click the print button the head start running and printing 4-5 lines just in the right side, to prepare the print (never done before!) and then suddenly it started to print the 1st layer and so on, FAST, I mean really FAST at 70-80 mm/sec I think, and I got a perfect 20mm cube. Please excuse my capital letters, it's not a yell, its an alert/warning sign. TO ALL NETFABB USERS: If YOU HAVE PROBLEMS AND NOTHING SEEMS TO WORK CHECK THE ULTIMAKER SPECIFIC-START GCODE SETTING, IF YOU HAVE NOTHING IN THERE, RESET MACHINE SETTING AND ... HAPPY PRINTING!

first of all thanks for the kind reply, 1) yes! thanks 2) Understood, waiting for the next release ;-) but when I slice the same object with different settings it overwrite the last saved. Why not to add a suffix like xxxxx1.gcode xxxxx2.gcode so to have all the different sliced version ready to print without overwrite? (well the best would be a complex suffix to remaind basic parameters like layer thickness, speed, infill,, temp... like xxxxxxxxx02_50_20lin_215.gcode :lol: 4)what I means is that if I load and print different objects the scale remain the same of the first and if you change it once it remains until I reset it at 1.0. Maybe just changing the scale letterbox color when it <> 1.0 could be enough to pay the right attention, like this one scale 0.5 5) no prob, this way it's fine. a huge thank for your patience too...

At this moment cura is my preferred package. I want print and I need consistency and cura gives it to me a lot of consistency. print and print again and print again and no problem at all! Working print after print I found some little improvement that could be helpful and prevent some little error when printing. I hope Daid can think about those abd aybe implement in future releases. 1- show the name of the loaded file and the name of the loaded profile somewhere in the GUI 2- let us choose the folder for the .gcode file 3-a x-y-z separated scale feature.( it is useful for enlarge extruded model (a lot of friends ask for a keychain with their names and sometimes a little adjustment on Z could save a print and prevent to come back to the modelling software)) 4- reset the scale to 1.0 everytime a model is loaded. 5- cancel the gcode graphics when the [X] near show result - show log is pressed, just for clarity thanks you very much Daid your effort for the community is really fantastic

today I printied two keychaines, one with faberdashery gold and one with faberdashery red. with gold I'm quite disappointed. the filament has a good color but after print it loses so much its gold finish becoming pale and maybe a little opalescent. temp is the same of silver and golwbug = 200 C The red is AWESOME! it need some degree more (220) but its finish is really really good. It seems the good old LEGO red, quite shiny. Feels really heavy and hard after print, I'm really satisfied by the way, the gold keychain is sliced and printed in netfabb. disappointing. the upskin is missing somewhere and the walls are more a net than a wall (standard, 0.2 layer) the red one is sliced in cura rc2 and printed in printrun (0.2 layer, 60mm/sec, 30% line infill, 220 C). very good print. a little bit improvment in upskin and cura will be perfect.

A tutti i possessori e futuri possessori di ultimaker italiani o italiani residenti all estero, contiamoci e teniamoci in contatto io sono a. ROMA e voi?

I think you don't have access to heating element in cura, you have access to it in printrun. there you can start the heating element and check the temp manually or with the checkbox (monitor temp) and of course start the print of your object sliced and prepared in CURA. ahhhh the smell of flowing PLA in the morning....

Yesterday I printed a keychain with faberdashery glow pla. Some problem with nf but a very good print with cura at 200 C and 0.2 Object came out with a very good finish, normal color is between a pale ivory-cream and hide well little problems. The show starts when you turn off the light and the object starts glowing a light green, fantastic! It's a sin that the glow doesn't last very much time, I mean that after you 'charge' the object in front of a light source it glows bright but the glowing fades fast and during a whole night the objects keep just a bit of glowing. Anyway prints very well, ( just clean the nozzle of the last pla used before start the print), kids get crazy about it and the quality of the pla is really good, thr object appears sturdier than other normal pla, no smell, very good finish. Approved!

Suddenly CURA starts working!!! I disinstalled some app from my pc and now IT WORKS!!! I can enjoy the full 3d preview!!! Software is often a mistery...

Before starting the print the motore are locked in my UM. To twist the z screw I have to power off the um, twist and power on again. Is it correct or there is a way to move z screw without powering off. I can't use the movement panel because the movement is in large step and I don' t know to reduce steps. In printrun there is a very well made cursor movement with different steps (0.1, 1, 10 mm) , netfabb should have something similar and a reset coordinate button... I hope someone at netfabb is looking at this thread...

I thought about that when I noted that there is a little gap between walls and infill on the upskin of my printed object and the downskin is way better than my upskin (i.e. extruded objects or extruded text) Maybe incrementing the % of wall-infill overlap should solve this specific problem.

I hope this is the right thread... I think CURA is great and reliable every time (I'm still struggling with a black 3d preview window but continue to use it :cry: ) but I feel it could be improved by an optional different kind of fill for the upskin/downskin,like in netfabb. the quality of the upskin/downskin in geometric pieces with the top and bottom faces nearly horizontal is way better with a 'contour-concentric' skin than with the normal hatching fill that doesn't go very vell with the vertical walls. this is a feature that could be a good improvement on CURA don't know if all this is clearly written... :lol:

MAybe you're right but I can'tunderstand why NF works so erratic with different profiles. the filament is the same in every profile as far as I remember. Anyway I will check it tonight. thanks! I opened a support ticket at netfabb website too but still not answer. However cura and netfabb togheter let me print almost anything...

I like to surf and brows the thingiverse site and I like very much the objects posted by dizingof like this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21317. is there someone who knows what software to use to do something similar? I like TOPMOD but it is quite unstable and not more on development. MAybe openscad could do but I think I need a PhD in math before doing something good...

I think it IS a problem in NF. same object, sliced with NF standard = a mess, sliced with NF high quality= perfect, sliced with cura (standard parameters)= very good. the only one making a mess every time iis NF with standard profiles. And of course I levelled the bed and checked before printing everytime, and every time I change the tape on the bed (actually after every completed print). It seems that the first layer printed with cura is really well stictched on the bed, almost squashed. the same with NF standard profile is like a micro rope laying on the bed, maybe there is something in the software (NF) that make the nozzle a little bit too high for the first layer when producing gcode from the standard profiles. I have to check the gcode freom NF and cura and compare them.

at the moment: 1- netfabb wit standard PLA-standardf quality = a mess (first layer never works) :evil: 2- NF with standard PLA - standard quality (temp 210, seam near origin) = some good prints some bad (always the first layer not stitched) :? 3- like 2 but with 2 regions (region 1< 10 layer FAN OFF; region 2 >10 layer FAN ON)= quite good but nothing memorable 4-Antiklesys profiles (read some post before this) ULTRA PLA-HIGH QUALITY with temp 190-200= awesome, slow but awesome :lol: 5-PEggYb mod STANDARD PLA-STANDARD QUALITY with half layer outer and inner 1 = first layer doesnt stitch :( 6-cura + printrun standard profile (E=925 for my UM, temp 200, layer 0.2, FAN OFF for the first 15 layers)= very good, I don't like the overall quality and maybbe the 'logic' below the filling inside is still not perfect, but works every single time I print. I liked very much the Antiklesys tips, following them I got a wonderful yoda. I still can't use netfabb for 'standard' or fast prints, everytime the first layer is a mess. a little OT: I change from 3m bluetape to simple white paper tape (the one used by painters and decorators here in italy). with a good rubb of alcohol it works well and costs 1/5.

here my results with the parameters advised p.s. how to put photos directly on post? I use flicker @antiklesys can you share some other combination of material/profiles that you use. I need to print in lesser quality but faster. the standard quality profile seems not so good. an of course, let us know which modification you did to your UM to upgrade it! thx!

just finished the yoda lite print with ULTRA PLA and HIG QUALITY profiles (the original ones in Netfabb engine for Ultimaker). A W E S O M E ! the quality we all are looking for and we all admire in some of the best picture around the forums. a lot of time (about 4 hours) but a 0.08 mm layer thickness and a fantastic result. hope to post the picture soon. thanks for the advice to Antiklesys. I have to rethink about Netfabb 4.9... try it.

just started a jodalite with yur advised parameteres. first 4 layers are outstanding. first layer went great, well stitched on the bed. to be continued... edit: 9% build finished downskin in a perfect way, the inside fill ( I went for 2.0mm and not 0) is very good. the skin is fantastic, I can't see the layers. At the moment I' am very surprised and I'm swallowing to see it finished. at the same time I wonder where is the magic? standard PLA- standard filled object parameters gave nothing comparable with this but only problem... to be continued edit: 27% all is going very well, awesome skin, perfect filling, no sign of detachment from bed, temp 195, no leakings... cross my fingers... edit: 65% I'm totally wiped out... this is the Ultimaker I bought! printing at 0.08, no support (I'm at yoda's ears level), no stringing, no blobs, no visible layers. I don't understand WHY nobody wrote before how to use netfabb? It's incredible that the basic standard profiles give erratic behaviour and the ULTRA & High quality profiles give a fantastic result without any problem.

After another day of tweaking NF with small results I started to use cura/PR instead. Netfabb has an erratic behaviour, something print good, the next time it doesn' work a all ( i.e. The extruder start spinning backward fast retracting the filament, or go to home position again and again...) My attempts with cura and pr ( after a simple calibration of the E steps =925) went very good and i coild print several real objects yesterday and not only calibration cubes... ( still my 3d preview window doesn't work but all the rest works great) I can print again and again with no problem at all. My only problem now is How to detach the printed piece from the bed? It stictch so well that every print I must change the blue tape... But I am smiling a lot now! I know we all 3d printers are like pioneers but : why a free ( and very well supported, great work Daid!) software is better than a 150 bucks software??? Yes I printed with nf last days but everytime I must keep my fingers crossed.... And that' s not the way. i really hope that nf team starts a deep review of their software and release a STABLE version with some new feature asap, meanwhile cura is the way to go. Just my 2 cents. For new UM buyers, think well before buying nf, maybe it's better wait for the next version and buy now 150 € of PLA instead, you will use it with cura... Edit: just opened a support ticket to nf...waiting for their reply

Awesome ! Printed nothing good like that until now... :cry: is this STANDARD 0.150 mm x layer or not? and what about the temp of the PLA (is that the ultimaker silver PLA?)