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Everything posted by johan

  1. Hi, I see now, that I forgot to paste in the link in my post earlier on.... Here it is: http://airtripper.com/1338/airtripper-extruder-filament-force-sensor-introduction/ Johan
  2. Have you seen this? Check out the link in the first post! Some nice research! :-)
  3. Hi, Just tried to Connect the LCD from Gadget3d, and turned on the printer without recompiling Marlin. It lights up, and is showing what it is supposed to show! I can scroll thru the menues and the clickencoder does it's job. This panel also work With the RAMPS 1.4 on my RepRap. This is of course no guaranty tha the RepRapdiscount panel will work, but I am quite sure it will. Johan
  4. Hi, If you open the Configuration.h of Marlin in Arduino, you will find a lot of different LCD panels, one of them the Reprapdiscount panel. I can try to test a LCD panel from Gadget3d (very similar to the one you have found) on my Ultimaker, when my print is finnished. :smile: Johan
  5. @jumpmobile: that stepper looks like a Nema 23..... If you live in Germany, try germanreprap.com
  6. Allmost every web store selling parts for Repraps, are selling steppers with the D-shaped shaft....
  7. Hi, I made a double extruder for my Reprap two years ago. It is a combination of the Makerbot MK6 direct drive extruder, and a hinged Wades. It uses two high torque steppers rotating in oposit diections. I made this solution after having missed stepps on a single stepper direct drive extruder.It's like a tanks! :smile: It's not grinding filament, but I have had occational blokings in the hotend (j-head 0.35mm). I actually beleve that it is the unmolten filament that blocks the hotend at high speeds (FR 250) https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55953222/Extruder%20closed.JPG https://dl.dropbo
  8. In the Reprap community many have changed from M8 to M5 on the z-axis. The M5 is not rigid enough to "over rule" the smoothrods. They also use flexible z-couplngs and add flex in the Z-axis motor mount.... On the BFB Touch they use arms to hold the moving z-platform, but the arms from the lead screws are not constrained in x-y on the platform to avoid z-wobble. Johan
  9. The BfB Touch and Rapman printers have(had?) wormgear extruders. They have good grip on the filament, but I thik I have read that they are not good with retractions, and "eat" filament and leaves a lot of dust. Johan
  10. johan

    Top layer

    gr5: Thightening the short belts did the trick! :-P Johan
  11. johan

    Top layer

    Hi, Thought I had my shortbelts nice and tight, but.... I have covered the printer with a large plastic sheet, to create a heated champer, so I guess the wood have dried out and loosened the bolts for the steppers. I will run a new print tomorrow to se if the problem is solved, but I really think you nailed it! Thank you! Johan
  12. johan

    Top layer

    Hi I have a problem with top layer not being totaly filled. I have redused the acceleration settings in Marlin to 1000 ( from 3000) and that helped a bit, but still not good. The filament is squized out to about 0.9mm, but there is stil a gap of about 0.4 mm between each tread. The perimeters and loops is perfect, so I dont think that I suffer from under extrution. It looks like the hotend moves to fare from the previous tread.... This is my settings: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55953222/Settings.JPG Johan
  13. BfB touch, now 3d Systems Cube X, has/had a carbon fiber printbed upgrade.
  14. @ Nick Foley: I have bought a full set of them, and they look good. I haven't replaced them yet, but it fits nicely on the Misumi smooth rods I have bought to do the direct drive upgrade.
  15. Adafruit is selling Gt2 pulleys with 8mm bore. Johan
  16. Why not switch to GT2 belts and pulleys, when puting so much time and money into an upgrade? Johan
  17. To me this looks like a upgraded BfB touch..... Johan
  18. I think the TC/tcboard can be over sensetive.... I get a 10 degrees drop in the themp reading if I hold my hand close to the hotend ( not touching it), and it rises again when I take my hand away. Johan
  19. Hi, I am using Cura on both my Ultimaker and my Reprap. I like it very much, and find it much simpeler to use than the RepG/SF combination I used earlier on my Makerbot TOM. There are just to things that I really miss: The possibility to run perimeters slower than loops and infill, and the Jitter function in SF. Johan
  20. Hi. Woulden't it be easier to swop the 1.8degree steppers, with 0.9 or 0.45 degree steppers? Then you would get two or four times as many steps pr millimeter.
  21. johan


    Thank you. I'll test! Johan
  22. johan


    I found that, but can I set the pushing back to less than the retraction lenght? for example retract 10mm, and push back 5mm instead of 10mm? Johan
  23. Hi, I am using Cura on both my Ultimaker, and my Reprap, and am very pleased. At the moment I am printing on the Reprap at high speed, and it is coming out nicely. The only thing is that I get a little blob where the z lifts. I use a retraction speed of 35mm/s, distance 12mm and extra lenght on start 0mm. The Reprap have a Bowden extruder. I can see that it purges out about 7mm before it starts to move the head. I guess this happens because of preassure beeing build up in the Bowden tube. In SF you set both the lenght of retraction, and how much you push back after the move if I remembe
  24. Hi. Have anyone made calculations on how much heat you have to supply on at a given speed? I just wonder if the truble we get with the extruder and the hotends is caused by unmolten filament beeing jamed down into the nozzle? If the 3mm filament hasn't melted in the core, it will actualy block the nozzle. If the nozzle had been a little bit offset from the filament input, this would be solved. Johan
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