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Everything posted by variador

  1. Here in the states Ultimachine sells the couplers and 8 mm steel rods. The steel rods were part of a 5 rod kit to make a 3d printer. All these parts worked well in the assembly to get rid of the short belts. Only needed to cut one of the steel rods. A dremel with a metal cutting disk did the job without any trouble. Thanks for the information to make the upgrade Calum! By the way Ultimachine sells 3mm plastic. So far it is the best I have used that ships within the states.
  2. They look reasonably close to me. I have seen that much change printing the same part back to back. This may be blasphemous in the Ultimaker forum, sorry everyone; If you want the parts to match exactly, best way is to get 1 print you like, make a mold, and pour as many duplicates as you need. The mold needs to set overnight but you can pour a print every 20 minutes or so, with that one mold. Plastic of Different strength and flexibility's are available. You have to add the color yourself. Back to PLA, the consistency between rolls has been giving me headaches. "Is it the PLA or is it my printer?" I am finding that each supplier has a consistency of its own. The Ultimaker PLA is very good but getting it shipped to the USA is prohibitive in cost. Maybe someone knows a technique here for inexpensive shipping here that they could share. Ultimachine is my favorite supplier so far in the states. All the PLA seems to print well and consistently from them. My all time favorite is/was A2Aprinting from Canada. The layers stick together really well and there is great strength and flexibility in the printed piece. Unfortunately the shipping is nearly same as the cost of the plastic and their inventory goes Out of Stock. These are just my opinions. I am not an engineer and don't print for profit. I mean this next comment in the best way possible, your question is like "opening a can of worms" to use an old saying. You can follow many paths. A piece can print quite differently depending on the slicing software you use. Search that one in the forums. 3d printing seems to have an unlimited amount of variables. These forums provide a wealth of information about these variables. Take that information and see what works best for you. Nothing is carved in stone, what works for one doesn't always work for the other. These variables make answering the details of your question difficult. The environment in which your printer sits can effect the print noticeably for example. To sum it up, your results look very good to me. Yes, to using the same roll of PLA if you want two prints to be as close as they can get. Second best is another roll from the same supplier ordered at the same time so they are from the same batch. Here's hoping something from my opinions helps you
  3. Arch1Tech Your print didn't slowly go off or lean after a few layers. It looks to have gone way off in one second. Just finished getting past a similar looking problem with a firmware reload. The trick for me was to really get a reload. Still trying to figure out that one. Have you tried printing something else? In my case every piece would suddenly go off track by more than a centimeter right away. Very similar to the way your movie plays. Hope you find your problem
  4. Just finished finding a problem where the UM would start printing out of alignment near the beginning of the second layer because the firmware became corrupted. Tried resetting the firmware from Cura 13.03 , didn't work. Went to Cura 12.12 and tried from there, didn't work. Went to replicator 26 and tried from there, didn't work. Went to Netfabb and tried reset machine settings. Went back to Cura 13.03 reset firmware. Took 5 times to connect. Once connected it printed in alignment for the entire print. Why is firmware so hard to reset, for me anyway? I use arduinos and make little sketch changes all the time and never need to upload twice. Does this arduino need to be cleared in some way before uploading? This is the same problem you encounter if you want to go back to Cura 12.12 for some reason. Cura 12 won't work after making 13 work with firmware change. Why won't the firmware from 12 reinstall? Is this the same problem? Do I ask too many questions in one message? :-) Is a firmware upload the same as uploading a sketch to arduino? Could someone point me in a direction of enlightenment? Thank you
  5. Thanks for the reply Gr5, Corrupted firmware was the culprit. Nothing worked after many failed attempts using a different setup every time. Tried a much smaller piece after tightened everything up (nothing loose). It went bad at the same spot on a smaller piece ( after first layer fan starts, outline goes good and then bam! It goes all out of whack. Slowed the print speed way down since this is the second layer when everything speeds up. Same problem. This problem occurred once before because of a firmware problem. After trying different methods, the firmware finally reset and once again everything is fine.
  6. Hi, It is still May 6th where I am at. Does that count? If so put me down for a set of ten with the shipment to the US. Thanks Don
  7. Hit endstop Z seems fairly easy to understand if it means what it says on the UltiControler. However, This error occurs during the second layer of the print that is going over exactly the first layer of the print. The print never gets anything but taller and only 6 mm at that. Once the error occurs the extruder head starts out of line by shifting Y towards the front of the printer. Haven't tried printing it straight from Cura yet. It is a rather large print but well within the boundaries and smaller than others printed before. Has happened twice in what seemed to be the same place. Second time was after deleting the first file from the card and slicing it again in Cura. The Ulticontroller is a week old and has had no problems. Anyone have an idea of what's happening? Thanks
  8. Cura with the UltiControler is great! Quick workflow, I love it. Nice job Daid! Working with some white plastic now from ultimachine that is 2.78 mm. Getting enough plastic is a problem right now. UltiControler is reading the 210.54. Updating the firmware to show percentages sounds like the answer. What firmware needs updating? The UltiControler or the printer? From Daids message it seems if Cura talks in percentages then the UltiControler shows percentages. Or Cura 13.01 upgrades the machines firmware then the UltiControler knows percentages. Where the firmware resides that gets the upgrade is confusing. That all being said, I appreciate the time Illuminarti took to reply to the topic message. Very helpful. Thanks to all
  9. Why did I purchase an Ultimaker? My first printer was a Rapman, enough said? Keeping the structure square while the extruder that includes the feed motor jerks around is almost as hard as getting the z axis to go straight up and down. Put a Rapman alongside an Ultimaker and you have an engineering design class. Why a 3d printer? I can make things I want that they don't sell.
  10. That is great advice Joergen. Connecting Netfabb to Ultimaker usually leads to your Ultimaker acting like it needs an Exorcism. IMHO based only on my experiences. The management may not agree with the authors thoughts and opinions.
  11. Sorry I can't help, but can add the problems are mutual. The startup Gcode slams the extruder head into the back the slams it into the right side. seems like the bed is 150 and it wants to go to 205. I can tell you that Cura prints nicely. If you need a print the fastest and easiest way will be with Cura. You have to become pretty good with Netfabb before you beat the results from Cura.
  12. Cura 12something on the Mac is my choice. After getting used to Cura it makes Replicator with Skeinforge seem like a chore. I do miss the ability to adjust the extruder rate. This isn't usually very important until I run into some hard to work with plastic.
  13. Thank you for the thread! Thanks Mr seeker. Same experience as dbotos here. I like being able to control speed, extruder rate, fan, and temp during the print. With Cura 13. Whatever I even lost the ability to speed up or slow down by %. Previous Cura wouldn't work at all so I removed everything. Read this thread and now I can once again use replicator 26 after losing the ability after installing Cura to try it out. Cura was good especially great at connecting but once in a while I needed that full control. Maybe I'll set Cura up on the Mac side of my computer then the drivers won't get in each others way. Thanks again to Hallz for getting the discussion going.
  14. Sorry thought this was a different question and don't know how to delete.
  15. Gave it a try, sorry to say no joy. Netfabb is is not controllable at this point. It is moving diagonally to print a square. It is trying to print at temps below 160 even though it is set for PLA. The Gcode I was getting along with is not running the way it did. This is what I was prepared to figure out so it is not that big of a deal. How do I start at square 1? Or How do I clean out the residing Gcode? Or is there such thing. Reinstall Netfabb? It says that it is using Ultimator connector V 1.02 Cura is Ok. Haven't gone back to Netfabb after having Cura work. Are both apps using the same arduino program? Seems like it would have to be because I didn't see a time when it would have been loading the arduino. I am confused about this firmware thing. Is firmware the arduino code? Can't see what Cura thinks is running it. Is this explained anywhere? Surprised I can print anything based on what I know about how it all works. Thanks
  16. Thanks for the reply yzorg and owen. Here is the code that has at least let me print in netfabb; M104 S%maxtemp1 M92 E14 G21 G91 G1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z5.00 F500 G90 M109 S%maxtemp1 G28 G92 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 E0.00 G1 E0.00 G1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z5.00 F600.00 M106 S255 E708.00 G1 X0.00 Y000.00 Z0.00 F15000 G92 E-300.00 The extruder head starts at home. Before it prints it moves to the back of the machine, hits the end stop where it grinds a little, and then it moves to where I have placed the model and starts printing. This is why I thought something was going on besides Gcode. I will give your suggestions a try. Might get a chance Sunday morning. Then tell of the results. BTW owen , when I use volumetric, the extruder moves to a place near the middle and starts extruding. The extruder never moves after that and it just keeps extruding until I cancel. All,of this happens with the startup Gcode you get when you choose Ultimaker. So thanks very much for your help, I find this confusing after I get over the frustration.
  17. Thanks for the reply Owen. I did try 26 but not as thoroughly as the newest one. 26 was the one I had been using the whole time since my Ultimaker was new. Would it have to use different firmware from Cura and Netfabb? Probably, but I don't know. Cura and Netfabb are becoming more reliable for me. It wouldn't be worth having to switch firmware every time I wanted to use RepG.
  18. I liked the control that it gave you while it was printing. It's startup was basic and it sliced pretty good. You could make it go really fast when you wanted it to and adjust the material depending what part of the print you were on. I understood what it was going to do. Cura works good but I need experience with it. Netfabb does its own thing. It is an awesome slicer. Startup on Netfabb is bizarre to me. The extruder head flies from one end stop to another. It does all kinds of things at startup that I haven't learned to control. I can't count on it yet. 3d printing is not my job and there is only so much time to learn how to operate the machine with the different types of software. When I need to have something made I want to know that I can count on having the part within a certain amount of time.
  19. Currently printing with Cura 12.11 and most recent Netfabb. Any ideas why ReplicatorG won't connect? Used to use RepG all the time. I would like to be able to use it once in a while in certain situations. Am using Ultimaker bought spring 2012 with a Win7 PC setup. My setup was always very particular about the firmware. There was a particular Marlin that worked. Any ideas? A direction to go to help my understanding? Thanks
  20. Hello, I am using an Ultimaker that came in the spring of this year. Getting Netfabb going for me is tough. Reading in this forum has helped me to get a print, actually two. The extruder head jamming into all the endstops at high speed was initial problem that kept me from getting a print. There was a topic that talked about the startup Gcode. I found the movements looking through the startup Gcode. Removed all the code that had anything besides 000 to see what would happen. The extruder head did its little z axis thing, when the temp was right the extruder took off down the y axis to the end stop. There it did a little grind. Then it came back to where it should print and started printing. This was the first print that ever worked for me in Netfabb. This was in the High quality settings. This is the newest version of Netfabb on a Win7 PC from the downloads page and installing reading the "NetFabb Setup Guide and Quick Introduction". My first question is, where are the instructions moving the extruder to the y axis endstop? Next question, does the startup Gcode work for everyone else? More questions; Why does the extruder head have to travel to every end stop at super high speed before it starts? How do I save the Gcode that I have adjusted so it is there when Netfabb starts up? Any help is appreciated. Maybe point me in a direction to learn what I dont know.
  21. Hello I have Skeinforge 40 selected but the Gcode generated isn't changing and it says Skeinforge 35 in the Gcode at the beginning. The bar graphs are showing that they are generating new Gcode. So 40 is selected and highlighted before this generation and 40 is still highlighted when the generation is done Gcode still says Skeinforge 35. What am I missing? Thanks for any help
  22. Started with a Rapman love the ultimaker. My two cents (its true worth); Run hotter go faster ReplicatorG lets you change the build speed while it is running. You can double the speed during the print. There is also a material multiplier that you change while its running. Besides multiplying you can pull back too. My jaw dropped when I saw PLA temp at 240 after using 180 on Rapman. Immediately started dropping the temp and having problems. Went to 235 but the head had to move faster. The PLA gets less chance to ooze. Something else to try Hope you find something that works
  23. OK Thanks, Sorry, I don't understand github and its choices So, I get no start message when I try to run the checks. First time I upgraded the firmware and I couldn't get it to work. My setup doesn't like the Marlin that is is getting. 2560 Ultimaker. ReplicatorG couldn't connect either. This is what cost me a lot of time on the first day. Marlin2 works. I don't think the others do as I remember. It took me quit awhile to realize my connection problems were from the firmware. If you don't have a connection how do you upload firmware? That was my thinking and what cost time. Once I tried different firmware I found one that worked. Anyway, I have been to printrun and sliced my model but don't see how to start printing. Just went again in case having firmware that connects might make a difference. Still don't see it. In the startup calibration setup I couldn't warm the extruder to remove the filament. Something else that I almost missed is that you want to calibrate the 100mm of filament with the hot end removed. I know you say Duh!, but I have no experience with a procedure like that. Reading the forum the other night I happened upon a calibrating message that talked specifically about the procedure. This is what rang the bell in my thick skull. As us outsiders come online you might have to consider what we do and don't know. I have used a Rapman and have never run across a filament calibration procedure. You print boxes, decide which one you like, you probably know the procedure. That is great that this machine actually lets you put numbers to it. So thats my first shot at Skein pypy and printrun. Don't know if you wanted this much feedback but it was fresh in my mind and from reading some of your other messages I know you care and want to help us all. So that was a newbies perspective. The physical design of this printer contains the best pieces of all the open source printers I have seen! I appreciate your help and the time you spend. Thanks Don
  24. Thanks! Sorry I don't understand the github yet. I'll give this a try now.
  25. I am having a problem with the Skein PyPy files. Downloaded and extracted to Cura which seems to be most updated as of 3/24/12. Wiki says double click skeinpypy batch file and it will start to ask questions for the install and setup. Double click yields nothing on a 32bit windows 7 OS. Been getting along with ReplicatorG and Marlin and thought to try another set of software. The read me file is difficult to read with Notepad. What is best to use? Also read somewhere about starting with the .sh files. That doesn't work either. Sorry to say but the entire process is new ground. Never used Github, navigation not as easy as a download button. The zipped file that seems to be the correct download is called daid-Cura-1021f0f and it is 584KB. Unziped 1.8MB with 252Files and 42 folders. So in this unzipped folder are files and two folders Cura and scripts. Open scripts and there are three folders linux, os64, and win32. Go into the win32 folder doubleclick skeinpypy of type Windows Batch File and no joy. I get a window zoom but to nowhere. Is there a particular place this folder has to be so the correct path can be followed? Special way to start a windows Bat file? Another unfamiliar method batch file. Sorry, can't piece together all the unfamiliars. Leaves my head spinning.
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