flyguy

Stu_le_brew What did you search on AliExpress to find these parts, I need to order the Hot end Isolator coupler. Or do you have a link to the supplier. Thank you,

In stead of messing with the code of Marlin, I started to swap out resistors 4.7k ohm was what I have been using this whole time. I tried 10k with no better results. With each resistor I recompiled the look up table with the Python script from Rep Rap 22k ohm works ! It starts off around ~ -20 only 2 less then the last value in the table {1008, -22} 47k ohm works as well but it starts around -44 Testing the 22k ohm resistor, Using my fingers to heat up the resistor It only returns a result of ~9c which means I should be dead. But I don't care, its working with out messing with any Marlin Code and no need to pre-heat the resistor. I'll be testing the results of the 22k ohm resistor at 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, 100c with my toaster oven. ( I have one of reflow solder hacks that controls the oven's temp with an external micro controller) Thanks for everyone listening and reading to my troubles, Brian

In stead of messing with the code of Marlin, I started to swap out resistors 4.7k ohm was what I have been using this whole time. I tried 10k with no better results. With each resistor I recompiled the look up table with the Python script from Rep Rap 22k ohm works ! It starts off around ~ -20 only 2 less then the last value in the table {1008, -22} 47k ohm works as well but it starts around -44 Testing the 22k ohm resistor, Using my fingers to heat up the resistor It only returns a result of ~9c which means I should be dead. But I don't care, its working with out messing with any Marlin Code and no need to pre-heat the resistor. I'll be testing the results of the 22k ohm resistor at 60c, 70c, 80c, 90c, 100c with my toaster oven. ( I have one of reflow solder hacks that controls the oven's temp with an external micro controller) Thanks for everyone listening and reading to my troubles, Brian

Help! Anyone having issues using the Heated bed MOSFET on the Ultimaker Shield ? Here is my setup for Marlin: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build ... stepsE=800 I can see that the thermistor is working in the PrintRun. I can connect to the machine and and use a heat gun on the themistor to get a proper temperature reading. Next step is setting the Bed Temp to 60 Here is some of the read out with the Monitor Print box checked. ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.8 /0.0 B:3.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:66.6 /3.0 @:0 (Applying Heat gun) ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:78.8 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.1 /0.0 B:95.2 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:73.0 /3.0 @:0 ok T:35.2 /0.0 B:58.1 /3.0 @:0 Setting bed temperature to 60.0 degrees Celsius. ok T:35.5 /0.0 B:46.0 /60.0 @:0 (I Expect the red LED on the MOSFET to turn on here But it does not) ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:27.2 /60.0 @:0 ok T:35.7 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0 ok T:35.6 /0.0 B:3.0 /60.0 @:0 I do know that, the pin on the Arduino is good as a I wrote a basic Pin High/Low program and watched the LED turn on and off. Any help thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ This page has no options to enable the heater or the heated bed. It only allows you specify the sensor, not the heater its self. I thought I had dead pins on my Arduino so I ordered a new one. But it turns out that its a software issue. In the Configuration.h of the marlin firmware I have it already set #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 6 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 6 But the hot_bed and heater 1 still do not work. only heater0 works. (the hot end heater)

Ok I uploaded some basic code to the Arduino 2560, AND the 2 pins that I thought were dead are not. So I am missing something to enable the Heated bed, and the Heater 2 transistors. Anyone have an idea where I would go to enable these in the Marlin firmware. const int lowestPin = 3; const int highestPin = 4; void setup() { // set pins 2 through 13 as outputs: for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) { pinMode(thisPin, OUTPUT); } } void loop() { // iterate over the pins: for (int thisPin =lowestPin; thisPin <= highestPin; thisPin++) { // fade the LED on thisPin from off to brightest: for (int brightness = 0; brightness < 255; brightness++) { analogWrite(thisPin, brightness); delay(2); } // fade the LED on thisPin from brithstest to off: for (int brightness = 255; brightness >= 0; brightness--) { analogWrite(thisPin, brightness); delay(2); } // pause between LEDs: delay(100); } }

Hello, How would I enable the other heater transistors on the Ultimaker shield ? Would I just Edit the Pins.h file to make sure that the right pins are defined ? #define HEATER_BED_PIN 3 #define HEATER_1_PIN 4 (I know these pins are different then default) #if MOTHERBOARD == 7 #define KNOWN_BOARD /***************************************************************** * Ultimaker pin assignment ******************************************************************/ #ifndef __AVR_ATmega1280__ #ifndef __AVR_ATmega2560__ #error Oops! Make sure you have 'Arduino Mega' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu. #endif #endif ...... #define HEATER_BED_PIN 3 #define TEMP_BED_PIN 10 #define HEATER_0_PIN 2 #define TEMP_0_PIN 8 #define HEATER_1_PIN 4 #define TEMP_1_PIN 9 Is there anything else that needs to be modified to enable the Heating transistors ?

Is there anything special that needs to be done to enable the Heater2 and hot bed transistors ? I have tried use these but the lights never come on. Thanks

With more testing, I validated that #define HEATER_BED_PIN 4 was set in the Marlin pin define code. I jumpped a +5v line for the Arduino to Pin3 of the transistor, and the Transistors light came one. This leads me to believe that the Arduino pin 4 is dead. I'm currently in the process of switching the bed to run from heater 2

HOT_BED Transisotor Here are the voltage reading from the transistor to GND. 0v +19v 0v Pin1 Pin2 Pin3 Seems like the transistor is not on....

Yes, It soldered directly to the power input of the 1st power supply. This is a link to the picture of how its wired up. https://plus.google.com/photos/10429557 ... 3516558898 The Terminal block is the 2nd power supply. The black color side is GND and the blue (un colored) side is +19v The White and Black wire are what is run to the headed board. The Grey wire, is where the 2nd Power supply GND is connected to the 1 st Power supply's GND. I made the heated board at home, its has not extra components on it. meaning its just a long copper trace. I wonder if I need to add a resistor or LED or something to give the circuit polarity.

Help ! This is my 2nd attempt to get this working. I used a switch before to turn on and off my heated bed. But I needed a 2nd micro controller to monitor to the temp and turn the switch on and off. Right now I currently have it wired according to the 2nd power supply topic on the page http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Heated_Bed#Heating_circuit "Secondary DC supply, e.g. 12V for reprap pcbs: The ground of this supply should be connected to the ground of the Ultimaker supply. Than one power connection of the PCB goes to the +12V of the secondary supply, while the other goes to the pin2 of the HotBed connector of the Ultimaker PCB. Its a lowside n-channel Mosfet circuit, thats why this should work. (I have not tried this personally, please be careful). Then the Ultimaker PCB should be able to control the bed." 2nd Power supply. 19v + -------------------- Heated Bed ---------------- Pin2 Hot_Bed GND ---------- Ultimaker PCB ground (Power jack) This does not work..... any idea's why ? My ultimaker PCB is version 1.5.6

I ended up ordering the 5/8" Peek Rod from mcmaster, with a M6 tap and the appropriate drill bit. I like the idea to die the bowden and tap the top of the Peek. I'll have to pick up the appropriate tooling for ACE hardware or home depot. Also I picked up a $120 mini wood lathe from harbor freight. I already had a mini drill press. lets hope for no more hot end issues !!!!

Hi, My Peek threads stripped out and the hot end fell out of the peek during a print. Does anyone know a place where I can get a replacement peek ? Preferably in the United states. Thanks, Brian

I had a thought, because the volume of material being extruded is so critical to quality prints. I was trying to think of a way to calculate the amount of material is being extruded. My thought is to use weight to calculate the volume of extruded material. http://www.tekscan.com/flexible-force-s ... ifications Anyone have input on this idea ?