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unclebobtech

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Posts posted by unclebobtech

  1. SkeinPyPy for mac hangs very often and need to reboot the mac. The expert settings don't seem to work i.e. all the settings there aren't saved and can't be used. It seems the max travel speed is 100mm/sec and the layer height can't change to 0.35mm.

    Pronterface count down really get into my nerve. I will have to find where the M220 setting is. The reason need to control the flow of plastic at the first layer is that a lot of plastic is drained before the print begins and so when it actually does it does not have enough plastic to make it stick.

  2. I have installed Marlin on my Ultimaker. I use SkeinPyPy to slice the object and use Printerface to print.

    I don't really like Printerface because it lack the realtime control on Replicatorg but Replicatorg don't work with Marlin (I think).

    I also find SkeinPyPy a big buggy and lag the control I need. For example how to make the base print more plastic etc.

    So I am thinking of slicing with Skeinforge. However I can't find any online manual. Can anyone send me a link or something ? Thanks.

  3. I just gone through the same exercise. Yup repG 0025 won't work with Marlin. Only 0026 would but that's for PC. So need to install SkeinPYPY.

    Just open TERMINAL and type in what the readme tell you.

    Here is my sample print Marlin vs Stock firmware.

    http://www.indiegogo.com/Wahoo-The-Affo ... y&a=391308

    And you might want to create a shortcut to run the script.

    Use this in the AppleScript Editor

    sh "/Application/skeinpypy.sh"

    and do same for Pronteface.sh

  4. Daid,

    Sorted now. Some how after I redo the red & yellow wire and do them again I get the temperature.

    Here is my first print :-)

    http://www.unclebobtech.com/successful- ... timaker-3d

    BTW I notice that the print head travel for about 10 secs then pause for 1/2 sec and keep on doing that. It creates small blob on the print. Anyway to fix that?

    2ndly I tried to increase the printfeedrate but seems no effect. Am I doing something wrong ?

    Cheers

  5. Hi

    I just assembled my newly arrived Ultimaker. In replicatorG the current temperature is shown zero. I can manually turn on the extrusion head header but the thermocouple cannot pick it up.

    When I remove the yellow and red wire from the thermocouple away from the mini circuitboard, the temperature jumps to 2xx. So it seems I have plug in everything correctly. I manually measured the resistance across the thermocouple it is around 2-3 ohms. Is this normal or do I have a faulty thermocouple. Thanks.

  6. Wonder what stops Ultimaker from reaching the quality from those other professional 3D printers.

    1. Hardware ?

    2. Software ?

    3. Calibration ?

     

    The ZCorp machines are a much higher quality then "RepRap" based Ultimaker. Which is also visible in the price. Not just in the price of the machine, but also in the price of the printing materials. I think

    http://www.shapeways.com/

    uses ZCorp machines to do their printing (check the videos). And you can just upload your parts to shapeways and you'll have example prints at your doorstep in a few weeks or so. For a 15k sale you most likely are able to get free sample prints from ZCorp. So you can test the strength of the result, and if it meets your needs. You should also contact 'classic' injection molding companies to see what they charge for creating objects like those.

    The Ultimaker, while awesome, is not really intended for mass production use. It's more of a unique kind of object printer. Or an "adult hobby kit for personal use" (worst possible description :p) It also finds it's place in professions like architecture and art. Because of the "1 of a kind" nature.

  7. Hi Ian

    What is the difference between NetFabb basic vs the paid one ? I heard one is free. Is the free one any useful ?

    Thanks.

     

    thank you for the help.

    I am testing Netfabb Basic and tested my basic model, seems all good (imported from 3d max format)

    then now I have my netfabb model and i think the next step is to bring this model into Skeinforge, get my GCODE and then open that in Replicator for printing.

    here is a screen shot.

    Ian

  8. I think for PLA, you need a fan to cool down the plastic. Which might explain the rough quality for the feet.

    For the head, well I really don't know. Raprep Mendel with ABS is still a black magic with me. I will get my Ultimaker soon then I can make the judgement.

    BTW I don't know where ppl usually buy their PLA from. Are the qualities from difference source the same ? How to shop for PLA ?

    Thanks.

  9. I am making this Smartphone Control Robot, parts are printed using 3D printers. In the prototype I use ABS for the chassis & head and PLA for the feet print from a Mendel. As you can see from the photo the PLA is very rough but easy to print. However I have seen very good PLA quality from Ultimaker.

    I want to get the Ultimaker because it print fast and good quality. My question, why my PLA quality so bad while Ultimaker seems good ? Should I use PLA or ABS ?

    Stretchlet_UM_original_100x.g

    http://www.indiegogo.com/Wahoo-The-Affo ... t?a=391308

    http://www.unclebobtech.com

     

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